Rockfax Description
The wall immediately to the right of the crack. The route isn't well protected, although it is easy to lean left to place runners, reducing the grade to VS. The crux is accessing the final slab. © Rockfax

FA. Fergus Graham 1920s 1925

rushy11111918 26/Oct TR
scott quinn 03/Oct Solo O/S
spenser 06/Sep Lead O/S

No meaningful gear until you are through the 4c section, however there is a good amount of insecure 4b climbing near the top so still worth using a rope and gear as protection improves after the crux. A quintessential bold gritstone slab!

with Dean Hepworth
cragsman9000 03/Sep Lead O/S

Guide book said little protection, so I put gear in every placement thinking that it might be my last. Ended up sewing up the whole route! Modern small cams make this route protectable.

with Neil
robblowen 18/Jul 2nd β


with Munch
munch88 17/Jul Lead O/S
with rob
Hidden 12/Jul Lead O/S
Ciderslider 26/Jun 2nd O/S
with charley
charley 26/Jun Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 26/Apr Lead
Brown 19/Apr Solo
with Solo
buxtoncoffeelover 02/Apr Lead

Not the best gear for inspiring confidence, but the climbing is fairly friendly.

theomoore 26/Oct/14 Solo O/S
Marmoset 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Marmoset 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
stev1e.wilso 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Simon
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead
jshields 11/Jun/14 Lead
bobpilgrem 06/May/14 TR
with Bob/Nic
WillDoyle 02/May/14 Solo
CallumSmith ?/Mar/14 2nd
fjg123 ?/Mar/14 -
Mark Salter ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
rurp 10/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Cold, scary balance climbing good effort for 1920 fergus

with bill farmer
Hidden 20/Sep/13 2nd
john_ni 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Peak CC
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead
Andre Clarke 03/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S

I found a good cam slot that would have protected the crux, quite a soft route.

with deacon
Hidden 21/Jul/13 TR
Ian JL 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd
migs493 07/Apr/13 2nd β

Stanage HVS

with LO
deacondeacon 23/Nov/12 Lead O/S

More like a vs and didn't find it particularly bold.

Paul Hy 23/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
Hidden 14/Oct/12 2nd
Ewano 07/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Dibdawg 10/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Chris Craggs 03/Aug/12 2nd

There are several tiny cams along the way. The crux is accessing the final slab.

with Steve Cunnington
pebbles 03/Aug/12 2nd

felt harder than 4c to me. very bold

with guido
Hardcore Pat 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Sir William of pettitsmith
Dafydd Llywelyn 24/Jun/12 Solo O/S
BLodge 13/Jun/12 TR
victim of mathematics 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jaime
Jeromecooper 23/Mar/12 -
ERH 23/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/12 Solo O/S
wi11 13/Jan/12 Solo O/S
JamieSparkes 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S

VS 4b?

Dave Ing 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
shouter 29/Sep/11 Lead
Gabe Oliver 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Favourite route of the day. interesting with cross winds and a little ballsy in the middle section without too much gear

SamuelHarris 11/Sep/11 Lead β
claregardiner 09/Sep/11 Lead
migs493 06/Aug/11 Solo O/S
tracyclimber 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
PhilCartwright 19/May/11 2nd O/S
with Liam Brown
Si Croft 06/May/11 Lead

not much gear placment where needed

with JD
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 TR O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 06/Apr/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Karl Wooffindin 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Bryce Rigler
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/11 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Garron 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Guide says basically unprotected so took too little gear, there is some protection and two 0.3 camelot placements

Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
gingergeorge 04/Aug/10 Lead
holters 04/Aug/10 -
Steve J P 30/May/10 2nd
with JD
Jon Dittman 30/May/10 Lead
Shad 30/May/10 2nd
with Steve, Jon
Jonathan Hall 01/May/10 Solo
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 -
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
dannyboy83 17/Oct/09 Solo O/S
tompilgrem 19/Sep/09 2nd
with Dad
bobpilgrem 19/Sep/09 TR O/S

Nice line-bottom section felt easy- but with no pro- some small friends would help towards the top.Easy 4C but very bold.

with Bob/Tom
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Mark_RMC 15/Aug/09 Lead

A bold and delicate climb with a couple of side runners low down to offer some (but not much) protection.

with Michelle
Phil West 04/Jul/09 2nd rpt
with Chris Tan & Wingnut
dunk 13/Jun/09 TR
with rocktigger
Crotchett 13/Jun/09 TR
with dunk
rocktigger 13/Jun/09 2nd

The problems lower down can be avoided but attacking the centre of the top bulge gives the best move of the route.

with Jonny
Chris the Tall 02/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Oceanic 22/Mar/09 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
metal arms 24/Dec/08 Solo O/S
LakesWinter 20/Sep/08 2nd
with gustav
Mattyk 21/Jul/08 Solo O/S

a bit of a lame route as you can step left at any time if you chicken out.

maybe_si 21/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Andy Hudson 11/Jun/08 TR
with Jayne
Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 31/May/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/May/08 TR
Jeronimo 11/May/08 Lead O/S

Think I might've copped out a bit in a moment of desperation. Very run out, very little gear. went too far to the left.

with Rayan
Gambit 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Carl
Gambit 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Carl
AJ007 19/Mar/08 Solo
Chris the Tall 17/Feb/08 Solo rpt
Joe Dove 10/Feb/08 2nd
with kev
mic_b 06/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hannah Moulton ??/2008 Lead
with Rob Middleton
shark 01/Dec/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 18/Sep/07 Solo
maybe_si 06/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
Graeme Hammond 11/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Nicos 28/Jan/07 Solo O/S
with solo
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
drysori ??/2007 -
Whitt 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Anne
bobette 11/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with mike
chrissloan84 19/Aug/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/06 2nd
LakesWinter 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S

I used a couple of side runners to climb it at VS

with Jon
shark 29/Mar/06 Solo
Hidden 23/Mar/06 Solo
Sidekick ??/2006 Lead O/S
shark 29/Oct/05 Solo rpt
Rampikino 04/Jun/05 Lead
with Claire, Liz, Mark & Rob
reg_measures 25/Mar/05 Solo O/S
Phil West 19/Mar/05 2nd rpt
with Chris Tan, Ed, James Rowe
Chris the Tall 19/Feb/05 Solo rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/04 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/04 Solo
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Solo
Hidden ??/2004 Solo
Hidden 01/Nov/03 Solo
Hidden 17/Aug/03 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 02/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Phil West 21/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/02 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/01 Solo
Hidden 29/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
akhughes ??/2000 -
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Iain Thow 27/May/97 Lead
with Alex Doherty
Rog Wilko ?/Nov/95 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/95 Solo
NeilGriffiths ??/1991 -
Tom V 22/Jun/88 Solo
goi.ashmore 03/May/88 Solo β
mike bridges 30/May/86 2nd O/S

Pat did R-H Trinity and I did F G`s direct traversing back to take his runners out.

with Pat Meeds
Dave Musgrove 22/May/86 -
Hidden 14/Feb/81 Solo
Hidden 19/Apr/80 Solo
Hidden ?/Nov/79 Solo O/S
mikej 19/Oct/79 TR
with Mike Byles
Mark Kemball 01/May/77 Solo
mikej 29/Jun/69 Solo
with Geoff Williams
mikej 01/Jun/69 Solo
with E
mikej 10/Sep/67 Solo

Not sure the line was correct.

with Steve Radford, Ted Markham, Nigel Sumner
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 27
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set