UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Mild and excellent. Start at the right toe of the buttress and after a couple of moves, follow a horizontal break out to the left. Pull up on the suspect perched boulder with care then finish up the arete, or more in keeping with the lower section, the centre of the wall above trending slightly rightwards. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Townsend 1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Ticklist , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage

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User Date Notes
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, ticked in the last of the sun.
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant route, ticked in the last of the sun.
AndyClifford 16 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: HS 4b is a better grade due to perfect protection.
βeta?
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βeta: HS 4b is a better grade due to perfect protection.
Puckle 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The first gear is in the break on the hand traverse.
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βeta: The first gear is in the break on the hand traverse.
LingCH 15 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Julian put two cams in at the start of the traverse across left to protect the cross over. Quite sparse in holds at the start although once getting onto the buttress it was well protected and good holds up. Very nice climb indeed.
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βeta: Julian put two cams in at the start of the traverse across left to protect the cross over. Quite sparse in holds at the start although once getting onto the buttress it was well protected and good holds up. Very nice climb indeed.
Andy Ovens - UKC and UKH 1 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: abcd
βeta?
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βeta: abcd
CurlyStevo 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: striaght forward for VS and I thought well enough protected, as long as you stop to place gear during the traverse. I actually found the HS variant to be less well protected and more technical! Scary pulling up on the block as it looks big and heavy but not so big and heavy you can totally trust it!
βeta?
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βeta: striaght forward for VS and I thought well enough protected, as long as you stop to place gear during the traverse. I actually found the HS variant to be less well protected and more technical! Scary pulling up on the block as it looks big and heavy but not so big and heavy you can totally trust it!
RobRock 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Oh it was VS alright - but then I supose the melting ice could have been a factor.
βeta?
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βeta: Oh it was VS alright - but then I supose the melting ice could have been a factor.
LakesWinter 20 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: More like HS than VS but excellent, lovely moves
βeta?
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βeta: More like HS than VS but excellent, lovely moves
Simon Caldwell 7 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Felt like VS to me, not that well protected on the 'pull up', assuming you resist the temptation to put gear behind the boulder :)
βeta?
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βeta: Felt like VS to me, not that well protected on the 'pull up', assuming you resist the temptation to put gear behind the boulder :)
Monk 23 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe I wasn't going well, but I didn't find this as easy as I was expecting. Average VS. How solid is that perched boulder anyway? It seems to be held on by mud!
βeta?
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βeta: Maybe I wasn't going well, but I didn't find this as easy as I was expecting. Average VS. How solid is that perched boulder anyway? It seems to be held on by mud!

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 314
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 302
Votes cast 290
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Medusa

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Ravensdale)

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