There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Mild and excellent. Start at the right toe of the buttress and after a couple of moves, follow a horizontal break out to the left. Pull up on the suspect perched boulder with care then finish up the arete, or more in keeping with the lower section, the centre of the wall above trending slightly rightwards. © Rockfax
FA. Ron Townsend 1949.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Ticklist , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Stanley | 18 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Brilliant route, ticked in the last of the sun. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route, ticked in the last of the sun. |
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AndyClifford | 16 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: HS 4b is a better grade due to perfect protection. | βeta? | |
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βeta: HS 4b is a better grade due to perfect protection. |
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Puckle | 19 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: The first gear is in the break on the hand traverse. | ||
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βeta: The first gear is in the break on the hand traverse. |
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LingCH | 15 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Julian put two cams in at the start of the traverse across left to protect the cross over. Quite sparse in holds at the start although once getting onto the buttress it was well protected and good holds up. Very nice climb indeed. | ||
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βeta: Julian put two cams in at the start of the traverse across left to protect the cross over. Quite sparse in holds at the start although once getting onto the buttress it was well protected and good holds up. Very nice climb indeed. |
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Andy Ovens - UKC and UKH | 1 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: abcd | βeta? | |
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βeta: abcd |
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CurlyStevo | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: striaght forward for VS and I thought well enough protected, as long as you stop to place gear during the traverse. I actually found the HS variant to be less well protected and more technical! Scary pulling up on the block as it looks big and heavy but not so big and heavy you can totally trust it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: striaght forward for VS and I thought well enough protected, as long as you stop to place gear during the traverse. I actually found the HS variant to be less well protected and more technical! Scary pulling up on the block as it looks big and heavy but not so big and heavy you can totally trust it! |
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RobRock | 7 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Oh it was VS alright - but then I supose the melting ice could have been a factor. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Oh it was VS alright - but then I supose the melting ice could have been a factor. |
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LakesWinter | 20 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: More like HS than VS but excellent, lovely moves | βeta? | |
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βeta: More like HS than VS but excellent, lovely moves |
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Simon Caldwell | 7 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Felt like VS to me, not that well protected on the 'pull up', assuming you resist the temptation to put gear behind the boulder :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt like VS to me, not that well protected on the 'pull up', assuming you resist the temptation to put gear behind the boulder :) |
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Monk | 23 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Maybe I wasn't going well, but I didn't find this as easy as I was expecting. Average VS. How solid is that perched boulder anyway? It seems to be held on by mud! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Maybe I wasn't going well, but I didn't find this as easy as I was expecting. Average VS. How solid is that perched boulder anyway? It seems to be held on by mud! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)