Gwynedd > Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder >
 
Clogwyn Left Hand Branch*** V 5

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[Looking down Pitch1-, 3 kb]125m, 4 pitches. Brilliant icy gully climb. The second crux pitch goes at sustained mixed V 6 if the ice-fall isn't fully formed, or climb Clogwyn Central.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Looking down Pitch1- © steveboote
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 97 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

No ice had formed - had to take mixed line at 6
tskelhon - AltLd O/S - May/13 with Charlotte

Ice a bit thin so Kin led grade 6 pitch. Ran final two pitches together - slightly too long for 60m rope but moved together on easy terrain until big flake belay could be reached.
Pete_Frost - AltLd - 08/Apr/13 with Kin Choi

I fell off near the top of the chimney on the crux pitch as something snapped out on the L pick (probably some turf I managed to see). Gear (in situ, loads of them) was so good. I got back straight onto it. I led it clean the second time. Brilliant dry tooling. The best winter lead I had. Truely deserves a grade 6 and 3 stars.
Skinny Kin - AltLd dog - 08/Apr/13 with Pete Frost

jjclarke70 - AltLd - 20/Mar/13 with justin barker

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/13 with mike moss

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/13 with Michael Stephenson

Split the main pitch so Andy lead the mixed bit and belayed half way up the chimney where the ice got fat. Liam lead the ice and I lead the top pitch, not sure if it was the top pitch of this route or the top pitch of pillar chimney. My hardest winter lead. Was great fun.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Andy Hall, Liam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Mar/13

Still in excellent condition
TimJ - 27/Feb/13

thick and hard ice .. fabulous conditions....great company
manxclare - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with jon22

Great Ice, climbed Left of 2 chimneys at top on thin ice. Great Day
The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Tony Ball

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13

jon22 - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with manxclare

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/13 with Merlin March, Kelli Roberts

Mixed condition V,6. Sam led crux.
Neil D - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/13 with sam thompson

kelliroberts3 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/13 with merlin march, Peter Rigby

P1 and P4
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 22/Jan/13 with Jez Hawksworth

industrialiceman - 20/Jan/13

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jan/13

Andy led it hall. Burly middle pitch.
tsl42 - 2nd dog - 19/Jan/13 with Liam Brown, Andy mumc

clams - 2nd - Jan/13 with PR&K

Led all pitches, cheers Pete! Took mixed variation and then middle top gully
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/12 with Pete Harrison

Mixed variation on p1 and middle finish. Brilliant.
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 12/Dec/12 with Gareth E

Climbed V 6 mixed 2nd pitch. Ice was better higher up, moved left and finished up easy ramp. Plenty of sun and blue skies
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/12 with Tom Skelhon

Jack.H.92 - AltLd - 03/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

adie84 - 2011

Luke Brooks - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/10

jparry75 - AltLd - 24/Dec/10 with m.evans

Waited a long while to be at the crag with the ice there. Absolutely superb.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 22/Dec/10 with Adam

An absolute classic brilliant. Got it on the second attempt (helps when it is in nick)
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10 with Neil Griffiths

timjones - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/10 with Neil McLean

1st proper ice route, ace.. apart from agonising hot aches, no one told me about that shit.
wolf.leeb - 2nd O/S - 20/Dec/10 with nic

Becoming tradition for me . Wee bit cruddy in places and prob nearer tech 4 than 5 today.
mynyddresident - 20/Dec/10 with wolf

Finished it! Stunning day, great climb.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10 with Tom Jumar, Misha

2hrs to slog up through shin to knee deep snow, a guy from another team kindly broke trail. Had to swim up the approach gully. Tom made short work of P1, which wasn't particularly hard but thinner than when Phil, Ian and I did it last Feb. I carelessly came off seconding just as was about to pull round onto the ice after removing the last bit of gear in the corner - had a dodgy placement, thought might as well carry on and the axe ripped or slipped off as I swung the other one. Embarassing! Not the kind of thing I would have done on lead. Adam finished up great plastic ice on the fat second pitch, taking the leftward rising icefall and then a bit of ice on the right to the top (think I did that bit to finish Pillar Chimney). A top day even though had done the route before. For the first time ever, walked out the same way as we had come in as just followed our tracks.
Misha - 2nd - 19/Dec/10 with Adam Booth, Tom

Took hours to even get to the route through deep powder, so rapped off nr top of first main pitch. Awesome climbing all the same!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/10 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - 2nd - 17/Dec/10 with Adam Booth

not sure what the grade is but flanked off right just before tatt and joined top half of right hand direct.
tscoobydoo - Lead O/S - Dec/10 with phillip belcher

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/10

A superb and top-quality route! Interests are really sustained, from ice to mix! The P2 crux ice pitch was thin; 10cm maximum for screws in less than perfect ice. Took the direct chimney finish.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Tom H

Soloed the first pitch, I led the prize pitch, C did the chockstone pitch, then I finished up the fantastic ice on the left. A brilliant climb, in perfect condition.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with Carmen

most of the ice very thin. Not many screw placements.
BorisVBlade - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Guillaume Billardon

Soloed to bottom of main pitch. Rob then led with surprising ease and only two screws. What a pitch! Steep and thin but brilliant positioned and very atmospheric in the mist. I led over the chockstone and then after a bit of faffing with belays continued to lead to the top over the top-class icefall to finish.
Will Smith - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Rob

Quality climbing throughout, felt super confident on it , I thought the ice was fine, got a few ok screws in but was really happy and moved quickly. Should do it in 2 pitches, belaying in the gully RH (good nuts) after the chockstone. We took the huge icefall finish as it looked so good - and it was
lithos - AltLd - 13/Mar/10

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/10 with Colin Beechey

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/10

Soloed to the ice pitch, Fell off at top of steep section on next pitch, so had to climb it again! At my limit!
emlynroberts - 2nd - 06/Mar/10 with Nigel Milner

Hidden - 06/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Feb/10

first on route! 1 hr 20 min walk in! both led first pitch (2) jim led second and third in one pitch (5/6 and 4) i led last (4) 3 stars!
spidey - AltLd - 20/Feb/10 with Jimmy

Terrifying & exhilerating! My walking crampons popped off on the first (easy) pitch. After fixing them back together with a sling, Alex led the crux pitch under showers of icicles and snow knocked down from above. Finished the route just as the last of the light faded and down-climbed an easy gully by the light of the moon.
crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with alex malins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10

reliably informed this is a grade V Geth and i went the mega hard way :S
RachelP - 2nd - 18/Feb/10 with Geth, Jamie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/10

np134 - 2nd - 14/Feb/10 with D. Wicks

Did in two pitches. Good lead by Phil on the steep ice of P1 with an entertaining mixed start. I did the direct narrow gully finish, with the crux being a few moves on thin ice to get round a hanging chandelier - fortunately there was a good nut not too far below! Excellent route which was in good condition, the only issue was that the ice was a bit brittle so while Phil was leading there was a fair bit of debris coming down from a couple of teams above.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Ian W, Phil

Lead the main pitch, good steep ice. Misha took top, short and thin.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with misha, ian wyatt

Excellent climbing through out. Tricky step left but v good gear.
AB1965 - Lead - 12/Feb/10

I lead crux pitch
Dave Heaton - AltLd - 12/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/10

frost - AltLd - 07/Feb/10 with D Garry

mux - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/10 with frost

mynyddresident - AltLd - Feb/10 with liam

mynyddresident - Feb/10 with geraint

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - AltLd dog - 24/Dec/09

Very little ice. V 6
stevebarratt - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/09 with Jade Littlewood

Soloed snow gully to beneath the chimney. Led half of second pitch but kept on mixed stuff in chimney due to thin conditions. Belayed at split in the gully. Seconded top part of pitch 2 in thin conditions. Led final snow gully and mixed climbed out of final chinmey in near darkness. Thought this route was often in - felt thin throughout to me?
Karlos - AltLd - 10/Feb/09 with Tom

Mike led the pitch of 4. Excellent climb in great condition.
jcurley - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/09 with Mike Buddle

mynyddresident - AltLd - Feb/09

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2009

Paul James
davebrox - AltLd - 2009

Rob Pitt - 2008

Ian McNeill - 2006

Tim W - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/05 with Myles Jordan

Tom M Williams - AltLd O/S - Jan/05 with Pete ?

keith leonard - 2005 with steve mead

phardman - Solo - 02/Mar/96 with Guy Maddox

phardman - Feb/96

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/95 with steve ward

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Feb/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/94

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1993

mark-abz - Lead - 12/Jan/91 with Andy W

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - Feb/82 with Dave Snowden

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ryan_naked24, StuartCJones, Hidden, sdawson1, Hidden, iksander, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jandyd05

Voting
Total votes cast 54
hard VI0 of 7
VI0 of 7
easy VI0 of 7
hard V2 of 7
V4 of 7
easy V1 of 7
hard IV0 of 7
IV0 of 7
easy IV0 of 7
hard 60 of 22
61 of 22
easy 69 of 22
hard 51 of 22
57 of 22
easy 53 of 22
hard 41 of 22
40 of 22
easy 40 of 22
3 Stars24 of 25
2 Stars1 of 25
1 Star0 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 97 (1.0%)
Lead13 of 97 (13.4%)
Followed10 of 97 (10.3%)
Alt Leads58 of 97 (59.8%)
Unknown15 of 97 (15.5%)

'Climbed'46 of 97 (47.4%)
clean O/S45 of 97 (46.4%)
clean rpt2 of 97 (2.1%)
dogged3 of 97 (3.1%)
Unknown1 of 97 (1.0%)