125m, 4 pitches. Brilliant icy gully climb. The second crux pitch goes at sustained mixed V 6 if the ice-fall isn't fully formed, or climb Clogwyn Central.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Cuillin Calling 14/Feb AltLd

Main icefall very stepped so Gd IV today. Top pitch crumbling away, did the excellent ice on variation left finish instead.

andy dunn 14/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Feb Lead
Hidden 09/Feb AltLd
Andrew Sloan 08/Feb AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th pitches. Did variant finish to the left of the original chimney finish.......thin melting ice and a delicate pull over the ice mushroom at the top....sporty, about tech 6! A brilliant route on a glorious winter day.

with Steve Grove
Nick Russell 07/Feb AltLd O/S

Like climbing a ladder, properly hooked out from being gangbanged for the past week or two. Not grade V in that condition.

LakesWinter 07/Feb AltLd O/S

Great route.

with gustav
alastairbegley 07/Feb AltLd O/S

Fantastic conditions but completely hooked out. Grade IV in current conditions.

highclimber 07/Feb AltLd dog

I did P1 and P3. fell on second on the ice (which is hooked to hell at th moment) when my axe popped while try to remove a screw. Top route but busy today.

tim newton 07/Feb Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 07/Feb 2nd O/S
Gustav 07/Feb AltLd
with Matt G
Joris.Roulleau 07/Feb Lead O/S

lovely route, good ice (soft at the top). Finished up the ice on the left, which was way more logical than the chimney.

with Richard Lizzimore
Pete_Frost 07/Feb AltLd rpt

Led P2 on perfect ice this time. Took a direct line and found ice as good as any I'd climbed in Rjukan.

with Anthony Eccles
ianstevens 06/Feb AltLd O/S

Good ice low down, but more steps than a ladder. Still no walkover however, and the ice is a little brittle further up. Utterly spiffing route, deserves each and every star.

climbEdclimb 06/Feb AltLd O/S

Good route with a decreasing quality of ice towards the top.

with Ian Stevens
Hidden 05/Feb 2nd
Rob84 05/Feb Lead
with Pidg
mynyddresident 04/Feb AltLd rpt
with wolf
robgixer 04/Feb Lead O/S

good ice all the way. started at the bottom of the ice and climbed in 2 pitches.

Hidden 04/Feb AltLd
wolf.leeb 04/Feb AltLd rpt
with nic
Hidden 03/Feb AltLd O/S
cymjt 02/Feb -

Unfortuntely We had to bail back down clogwyn left hand branch on Clogwyn Du yesterday in darkness...we left 2 anchors behind...one sling on a large thread low down, and then a nut/hex belay (with sling) above one of the steep pitches (not sure which one, it was dark!) Im not entirely expecting to see it again, but if some kind soul would like to return it, then I'd happily buy you a pint or two/donate to MR/NWBF/whatever you want... Thanks!

Mark Grist 01/Feb AltLd O/S
with Helen harrison, Nick Allsop
stratandrew 01/Feb AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, great fun. Icefall in great Nick: A 45m P1 (starting a little higher up the gully) and a very long P2.

Tadams 31/Jan Lead O/S

2 long pitches - main ice fall up to good stance with great views, then ran top section together, ran partway up leftward slabs before taking steeper step up right into the very windy scoop and onto the top. Fantastic route.

with Tom Hewitt
kenneM 30/Jan AltLd

In pretty good condition. Main pitch has plenty of ice but still kept as right as possible by the draw of the rock gear. Next pitch was excellent with first time placements!

with Steve Marner, Carl Davies
Hidden 25/Jan AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 24/Jan AltLd O/S

Getting up at 06.00 would have put us first or second. Instead we were fourth, more than an hour waiting. Not a bad spot to wait. Glad I brought my pack could wear duvet jacket and drink hot coffee. The ice was thick and Stu got the plum second pitch. This and the following we pitched. The second pitch took three slings, two being in situ, missed out the in situ wire, a friend and then ice screw. On my turn had to wait a while before I could start. Limited belay options at top? The ice was accommodating with natural hook options and steps not to mention prior axe holes. Less so at the crux, stepping around a bulge. Up to a sling then the stance with three people on it. Rounded ice falls follow. I opt to go ASAP taking in the unused left side. I grab the bandoleer, which later to my discomfort, I find has enough pro but not all the draws. The falls take two ice screws and two bulldogs. Could have placed more using reworked slings and crabs. Once over the falls it's slabby ice-snow to the boulder belay at the top with not much spare on the sixties.

with Stu Sherwood
kelly_426 24/Jan 2nd
with Tom Nichols, Luke Dudill
tom.e 22/Jan Lead O/S
with Claire
Ewan Russell 19/Jan AltLd O/S

I lead 2nd pitch. Brad lead a brilliant finihing pitch up a pitch up ice on th left

with Brad
breed 19/Jan AltLd O/S
AB1965 ??/2015 AltLd

Excellent conditions, blue sky, no wind. Great lead Bob

with Bob Johnson
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
tskelhon ?/May/13 AltLd O/S

No ice had formed - had to take mixed line at 6

clmacdonald ?/May/13 AltLd
Pete_Frost 08/Apr/13 AltLd

Ice a bit thin so Kin led grade 6 pitch. Ran final two pitches together - slightly too long for 60m rope but moved together on easy terrain until big flake belay could be reached.

Skinny Kin 08/Apr/13 AltLd dog

I fell off near the top of the chimney on the crux pitch as something snapped out on the L pick (probably some turf I managed to see). Gear (in situ, loads of them) was so good. I got back straight onto it. I led it clean the second time. Brilliant dry tooling. The best winter lead I had. Truely deserves a grade 6 and 3 stars.

with Pete Frost
mikeyjbs 04/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with mike moss
mike.moss 04/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Olli-C 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Split the main pitch so Andy lead the mixed bit and belayed half way up the chimney where the ice got fat. Liam lead the ice and I lead the top pitch, not sure if it was the top pitch of this route or the top pitch of pillar chimney. My hardest winter lead. Was great fun.

with Andy Hall, Liam
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
steveboote ?/Mar/13 AltLd

With Vic Belshaw

TimJ 27/Feb/13 -

Still in excellent condition

manxclare 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

thick and hard ice .. fabulous conditions....great company

with jon22
The Bad Cough 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Great Ice, climbed Left of 2 chimneys at top on thin ice. Great Day

with Tony Ball
Hidden 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
jon22 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Pete Rigby 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Merlin March, Kelli Roberts
Neil D 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Mixed condition V,6. Sam led crux.

kelliroberts3 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with merlin march, Peter Rigby
Tom Livingstone 22/Jan/13 Lead rpt

P1 and P4

industrialiceman 20/Jan/13 -
Hidden 19/Jan/13 2nd
tsl42 19/Jan/13 2nd dog

Andy led it hall. Burly middle pitch.

with Liam Brown, Andy mumc
clams ?/Jan/13 2nd
with PR&K
Tom Livingstone 13/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, cheers Pete! Took mixed variation and then middle top gully

Owain Llewelyn 12/Dec/12 AltLd

Mixed variation on p1 and middle finish. Brilliant.

with Gareth E
Glyn 03/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed V 6 mixed 2nd pitch. Ice was better higher up, moved left and finished up easy ramp. Plenty of sun and blue skies

with Tom Skelhon
Jack.H.92 03/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
jparry75 24/Dec/10 AltLd
with m.evans
NeilGriffiths 22/Dec/10 AltLd

Waited a long while to be at the crag with the ice there. Absolutely superb.

with Adam
A Crook 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

An absolute classic brilliant. Got it on the second attempt (helps when it is in nick)

timjones 21/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Neil McLean
wolf.leeb 20/Dec/10 2nd O/S

1st proper ice route, ace.. apart from agonising hot aches, no one told me about that shit.

with nic
mynyddresident 20/Dec/10 -

Becoming tradition for me . Wee bit cruddy in places and prob nearer tech 4 than 5 today.

with wolf
Adam Booth 19/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Finished it! Stunning day, great climb.

with Tom Jumar, Misha
Misha 19/Dec/10 2nd

2hrs to slog up through shin to knee deep snow, a guy from another team kindly broke trail. Had to swim up the approach gully. Tom made short work of P1, which wasn't particularly hard but thinner than when Phil, Ian and I did it last Feb. I carelessly came off seconding just as was about to pull round onto the ice after removing the last bit of gear in the corner - had a dodgy placement, thought might as well carry on and the axe ripped or slipped off as I swung the other one. Embarassing! Not the kind of thing I would have done on lead. Adam finished up great plastic ice on the fat second pitch, taking the leftward rising icefall and then a bit of ice on the right to the top (think I did that bit to finish Pillar Chimney). A top day even though had done the route before. For the first time ever, walked out the same way as we had come in as just followed our tracks.

with Adam Booth, Tom
Adam Booth 17/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Took hours to even get to the route through deep powder, so rapped off nr top of first main pitch. Awesome climbing all the same!

Ed Booth 17/Dec/10 2nd
tscoobydoo ?/Dec/10 Lead O/S

not sure what the grade is but flanked off right just before tatt and joined top half of right hand direct.

with phillip belcher
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd
masa-alpin 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

A superb and top-quality route! Interests are really sustained, from ice to mix! The P2 crux ice pitch was thin; 10cm maximum for screws in less than perfect ice. Took the direct chimney finish.

with Tom H
Simon Caldwell 13/Mar/10 AltLd

Soloed the first pitch, I led the prize pitch, C did the chockstone pitch, then I finished up the fantastic ice on the left. A brilliant climb, in perfect condition.

with Carmen
BorisVBlade 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

most of the ice very thin. Not many screw placements.

with Guillaume Billardon
Will Smith 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Soloed to bottom of main pitch. Rob then led with surprising ease and only two screws. What a pitch! Steep and thin but brilliant positioned and very atmospheric in the mist. I led over the chockstone and then after a bit of faffing with belays continued to lead to the top over the top-class icefall to finish.

with Rob
lithos 13/Mar/10 AltLd

Quality climbing throughout, felt super confident on it , I thought the ice was fine, got a few ok screws in but was really happy and moved quickly. Should do it in 2 pitches, belaying in the gully RH (good nuts) after the chockstone. We took the huge icefall finish as it looked so good - and it was

TimPerkin 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Colin Beechey
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
emlynroberts 06/Mar/10 2nd

Soloed to the ice pitch, Fell off at top of steep section on next pitch, so had to climb it again! At my limit!

with Nigel Milner
Hidden 06/Mar/10 -
Hidden 26/Feb/10 AltLd
spidey 20/Feb/10 AltLd

first on route! 1 hr 20 min walk in! both led first pitch (2) jim led second and third in one pitch (5/6 and 4) i led last (4) 3 stars!

with Jimmy
crossdressingrodney 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S

Terrifying & exhilerating! My walking crampons popped off on the first (easy) pitch. After fixing them back together with a sling, Alex led the crux pitch under showers of icicles and snow knocked down from above. Finished the route just as the last of the light faded and down-climbed an easy gully by the light of the moon.

Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
RachelP 18/Feb/10 2nd

reliably informed this is a grade V Geth and i went the mega hard way :S

with Geth, Jamie
Hidden 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
np134 14/Feb/10 2nd
Misha 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Did in two pitches. Good lead by Phil on the steep ice of P1 with an entertaining mixed start. I did the direct narrow gully finish, with the crux being a few moves on thin ice to get round a hanging chandelier - fortunately there was a good nut not too far below! Excellent route which was in good condition, the only issue was that the ice was a bit brittle so while Phil was leading there was a fair bit of debris coming down from a couple of teams above.

with Ian W, Phil
philhilo 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Lead the main pitch, good steep ice. Misha took top, short and thin.

with misha, ian wyatt
AB1965 12/Feb/10 Lead

Excellent climbing through out. Tricky step left but v good gear.

Dave Heaton 12/Feb/10 AltLd

I lead crux pitch

Hidden 11/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
frost 07/Feb/10 AltLd
with D Garry
mux 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with frost
mynyddresident ?/Feb/10 AltLd
with liam
mynyddresident ?/Feb/10 -
with geraint
Hidden 31/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 24/Dec/09 AltLd dog
stevebarratt 24/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Very little ice. V 6

Karlos 10/Feb/09 AltLd

Soloed snow gully to beneath the chimney. Led half of second pitch but kept on mixed stuff in chimney due to thin conditions. Belayed at split in the gully. Seconded top part of pitch 2 in thin conditions. Led final snow gully and mixed climbed out of final chinmey in near darkness. Thought this route was often in - felt thin throughout to me?

with Tom
jcurley 05/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Mike led the pitch of 4. Excellent climb in great condition.

mynyddresident ?/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
zero six ??/2009 AltLd O/S
davebrox ??/2009 AltLd

Paul James

Rob Pitt ??/2008 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Tim W 06/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
with Myles Jordan
Happy Wanderer 05/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Ice was as thick as the skin on my chattering teeth on P2! Led P1 & P3

with Ken T
Tom M Williams ?/Jan/05 AltLd O/S
with Pete ?
keith leonard ??/2005 -
with steve mead
phardman 02/Mar/96 Solo
phardman ?/Feb/96 -
michael burrows 24/Dec/95 AltLd O/S
with steve ward
Hidden 20/Feb/94 AltLd
Hidden 20/Feb/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/94 AltLd
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 12/Jan/91 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden 21/Dec/86 Lead
Martin Haworth ?/Feb/82 AltLd O/S
with Dave Snowden
Tim Sparrow ??/1982 -
with Ned, Ian Owen
Hidden 01/Jan/80 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High VI
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High 6
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