No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
A Burbage classic. Climb past some holes then thin cracks and the wall above, following the flakes to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Gilbert Ellis 1933.
Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Darrencabowabo,s hit list , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , CUMC Ticklist , ULMC Classics , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , Soft Touches , Routes Chloe would recommend , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , HVS Wishlist , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 2023 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Aither | 9 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: The abuse this route has been through has definitely added more protection than I imagine there once was, as well as ledges which are now jugs and the lower flake now having a camslot/good hand and good feet throughout. This is VS 4C all day, I've only ever done 2 other HVS routes and many VS's. Got my entire rack nearly into this route and didn't need to pull hard once. Great route but definitely needs downgrading, brooks layback before was harder. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The abuse this route has been through has definitely added more protection than I imagine there once was, as well as ledges which are now jugs and the lower flake now having a camslot/good hand and good feet throughout. This is VS 4C all day, I've only ever done 2 other HVS routes and many VS's. Got my entire rack nearly into this route and didn't need to pull hard once. Great route but definitely needs downgrading, brooks layback before was harder. |
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JayW | 15 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: A really fine climb and good for a first HVS lead. The protection is solid throughout and the route has a bit of everything - laybacking, jamming and smearing. A good one to tick. Used a number 1 nut at the start of the flake and a #1 cam at the horizontal break after the reachy move. | ||
Show beta
βeta: A really fine climb and good for a first HVS lead. The protection is solid throughout and the route has a bit of everything - laybacking, jamming and smearing. A good one to tick. Used a number 1 nut at the start of the flake and a #1 cam at the horizontal break after the reachy move. |
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iainJ | 14 Mar, 2020 |
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βeta: Block in the middle is loose. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Block in the middle is loose. |
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PaulJepson | 16 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Definitely HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely HVS. |
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Paul Tomo | 18 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: This very fine climb is easy for its grade, this was the first and last climb of the day, it started to rain just as i finished the climb, looking forwards to doing this route again, in better weather conditions. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This very fine climb is easy for its grade, this was the first and last climb of the day, it started to rain just as i finished the climb, looking forwards to doing this route again, in better weather conditions. |
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EarlyBird | 9 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Any grade will contain a range from easy to hard. K.M. is easy for the grade, only just HVS in fact; the examples you provide for comparison are right at the other end of the scale. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Any grade will contain a range from easy to hard. K.M. is easy for the grade, only just HVS in fact; the examples you provide for comparison are right at the other end of the scale. |
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AJ007 | 7 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I know the grade debate will go on forever, but a ask anyone who thinks this is HVS 5a to go and climb ‘Saul’s crack’(Roaches) then ‘Suicide wall’(Cratcliff), if these three climbs are the same grade the grading system needs re-evaluating. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I know the grade debate will go on forever, but a ask anyone who thinks this is HVS 5a to go and climb ‘Saul’s crack’(Roaches) then ‘Suicide wall’(Cratcliff), if these three climbs are the same grade the grading system needs re-evaluating. |
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Glen | 17 Mar, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: VS 5a, not HVS. You can rest on every move and there is plenty of gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: VS 5a, not HVS. You can rest on every move and there is plenty of gear. |
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sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: have to agree with most people tecnically not a hard route but certainly one where you have to keep your head especially on the first section.I spent 5 minutes with no gear looking for a placement 3m up the thought sod it and carried on to a good nut slot. Did anyone else utter thank god when you get the jug after the harder section | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: have to agree with most people tecnically not a hard route but certainly one where you have to keep your head especially on the first section.I spent 5 minutes with no gear looking for a placement 3m up the thought sod it and carried on to a good nut slot. Did anyone else utter thank god when you get the jug after the harder section |
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SARS | 25 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Low in the grade. Could be VS... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Low in the grade. Could be VS... |
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Richard | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Not strenuous. Nice moves between almost-rest positions. Wasn't convinced by my own gear though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not strenuous. Nice moves between almost-rest positions. Wasn't convinced by my own gear though. |
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Andrew Barker | 29 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route, not strenuous. If you're confident on HVS then perhaps a good route not to lace ie learn to place as little gear as you need! A 10m route with bomber gear all the way doesn't need five pieces in the space of one metre! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route, not strenuous. If you're confident on HVS then perhaps a good route not to lace ie learn to place as little gear as you need! A 10m route with bomber gear all the way doesn't need five pieces in the space of one metre! |
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DannyC | 26 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: my second hvs. not too bothered about the grade particularly but i'm pretty solid at vs and this felt harder than everything i've done before(though perhaps not 'the mall') if that counts for anything. lovely route. three stars. | ||
Show beta
βeta: my second hvs. not too bothered about the grade particularly but i'm pretty solid at vs and this felt harder than everything i've done before(though perhaps not 'the mall') if that counts for anything. lovely route. three stars. |
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MNA123 | 1 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: i meant low end HVS not VS | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: i meant low end HVS not VS |
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MNA123 | 1 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: climbed this on a very warm and moist summers evening without chalk so it probably felt harder then it should have been, i reckon its low end VS but still a very good route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: climbed this on a very warm and moist summers evening without chalk so it probably felt harder then it should have been, i reckon its low end VS but still a very good route. |
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Offwidth | 25 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice route but if its HVS (which I dont think so) then Peter's Progress has to be too for consitency. A fairly tough VS low in the 5a grade with the worrying bit below the technical crux (IMHO) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice route but if its HVS (which I dont think so) then Peter's Progress has to be too for consitency. A fairly tough VS low in the 5a grade with the worrying bit below the technical crux (IMHO) |
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shaun walby | 31 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Enjoyable lower end HVS ...fully agree with above comment, enjoy the route waffle about the grade later in the pub. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable lower end HVS ...fully agree with above comment, enjoy the route waffle about the grade later in the pub. |
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GrahamD | 25 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The VS/HVS debate shouldn't distract from the fact that this is a really nice route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The VS/HVS debate shouldn't distract from the fact that this is a really nice route. |
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Lurkio | 16 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: This was one of my first leads 12 months ago, and it felt every bit of HVS - had to rest on the gear half way up. Went back to it yesterday and found it sooo easy. So now I would agree it is low in the grade, but what a lovely route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This was one of my first leads 12 months ago, and it felt every bit of HVS - had to rest on the gear half way up. Went back to it yesterday and found it sooo easy. So now I would agree it is low in the grade, but what a lovely route. |
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jamiemoss | 12 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you have the right rack - small nuts and cams - and are quite cunning at placing them, then this route is extremely well protected. Think i got 5 (count 'em!) pieces in at bottom the the crux flake before launching up it (which is easier than it looks). More gear at top of flake, then massive breaks (cams) all the way to the top. Great fun. | ||
Show beta
βeta: If you have the right rack - small nuts and cams - and are quite cunning at placing them, then this route is extremely well protected. Think i got 5 (count 'em!) pieces in at bottom the the crux flake before launching up it (which is easier than it looks). More gear at top of flake, then massive breaks (cams) all the way to the top. Great fun. |
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The old James turnbull | 14 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: would say it is harder than most vs4c routes and probably right to be hvs 5a, just low in the grade as shown at the front of the guide, 2nd easiest hvs. still great stuff | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: would say it is harder than most vs4c routes and probably right to be hvs 5a, just low in the grade as shown at the front of the guide, 2nd easiest hvs. still great stuff |
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leon | 3 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: really really easy hvs even on a cold wet day with numb hands. leaves you scratching your head for hours after trying to work out how you missed the 5a move. i didn't manage much decent gear placement though -rekon i would've decked during most of the climb. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: really really easy hvs even on a cold wet day with numb hands. leaves you scratching your head for hours after trying to work out how you missed the 5a move. i didn't manage much decent gear placement though -rekon i would've decked during most of the climb. |
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mark s | 4 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: vs 4c.not worth 3 stars either. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: vs 4c.not worth 3 stars either. |
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Monk | 26 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Goose, The start of this route is shared with a VS (Peter's Progress). The hard bit is higher up. The first gear is at about 3m so hardly a bold start either. A good, well protected route. Very easy HVS. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Goose, The start of this route is shared with a VS (Peter's Progress). The hard bit is higher up. The first gear is at about 3m so hardly a bold start either. A good, well protected route. Very easy HVS. |
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gooose | 15 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: There's no gear near the bottom so that accounts for the HVS. I think the climbing is 4c at the most. Good route but 3 stars? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There's no gear near the bottom so that accounts for the HVS. I think the climbing is 4c at the most. Good route but 3 stars? |
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Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Great gear, great moves, great HVS grade breaker. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great gear, great moves, great HVS grade breaker. |
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gav p | 30 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: I got a lot of gear in, but most of it isn't that good. Very low in the grade - none of the moves feel hard for an HVS. A good route nonetheless. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I got a lot of gear in, but most of it isn't that good. Very low in the grade - none of the moves feel hard for an HVS. A good route nonetheless. |
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Robo | 6 May, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Damn fine route. Take plenty of small wires. It gets easier the higher you go. Good first HVS? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Damn fine route. Take plenty of small wires. It gets easier the higher you go. Good first HVS? |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)