South Yorkshire > Burbage South Edge >
 
Brooks' Crack*** HVS 5a

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[The calm before the storm!, 2 kb]14m. The left-hand crack is approached up a clean-cut groove to reach a recess. Steep and insecure moves gain the upper cave then good jamming leads to an awkward exit. © ROCKFAX
FA. Rupert Brooks 1934

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's.

Photo: The calm before the storm! © Bloke on a Rope
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 130 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Pulled on a cam at the top. Grit HVS still eludes me...
sopaz - Lead dog - 05/Oct/13 with Mackie

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13

well hard
the power - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with deacon

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Steve Broadbent, Tim Culwick

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

great route, might have gone a bit of route at the top
climb the peak - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/13 with tommy moore

With some support from above.
TradRat - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/13 with Alex Law

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Sara, Charlie, Rik

marcduhig - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Iain G, Bob

rikbattye - 2nd - Aug/13 with Hannes B

althesin - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Reds, schristophersmith

Reds - Lead dog - 20/Jul/13 with Althesin, schristophersmith

schristophersmith - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with silas feaver, Ian Redfern

Had a tight rope whilst a tried to winkle out two of John's cams which walked in a wee bit. First time I've removed a cam with a nut key - that's what the hooked ends are for.
MPSBunny - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with John Brannock

Dosent get any easier.
Brannock - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

Middle section a very awkward grovel (so took a little rest on the rope) top and bottom much better, but not 3 stars.
Julian Lane - 2nd dog - 09/Jul/13 with Mynydd Dave K

David Kay - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Mynydd C.C.

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Rachel

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/13

Climbster - 2nd β - 03/Jun/13 with Ian

You get lulled into a false sense of security with the steady start then before you know your wedged into the niche and jamming like a maniac, awesome!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Matt

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Sophie Heron

Got as much of a buzz climbing this as I did snowballing The Archangel. Best route I've done in the whole valley
Cake - 04/May/13 with John Cooper

Hidden - Lead - 09/Oct/12

Milnes - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with pep

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12

did my duty as a 2nd and removed all gear up to the last piece 1.5m from the top, then had enough of it and was lowered down (after an unsuccessful attempt to exit via a caving expedition). a very easy start builds false confidence, getting out of the 1st cave with a helmet on prooved difficult at best.
GermanAlex - 2nd dnf - 27/May/12 with Brannock

Having just crawled into the first cave, I hear from my belayer "dont want to worry you brannock but I think your harness is undone" "no problem, Im very securly wedged in this cave with my face so ill just rethread the leg loop" Very Stoopid Good value for money at HVS.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

R0bbie - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Taba

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/11

Wow. Such a lovely start but getting in and out of the various caves is a nightmare. Plus the lower cave had some sort of nest full of dead things in it.
AlexxelA - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Cari

tomjagger - 2nd β - 05/Aug/11 with Matt Cooke

stephenhartley - 2nd - 13/Jul/11 with Burns

Two brilliant knee bars (not at the same time) take the sting out of the tricky sections.
slacky - Lead O/S - 10/May/11 with Nick Taylor

awkward exit from the cave at 3/4 height. Leave the helmet behind for that bit!
highclimber - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Not exactly a clean ascent - fell off trying to get up from first "cave"
Ant Man Bee - 2nd dog - 17/Apr/11 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Paul Bolton

keith leonard - 2011

keith leonard - 2011

Hidden - 2011

DavidR - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

nai - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Cal

Really good much better than I expected
andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Pom

Not nearly as sustained as the guide would have you believe. The first half is a delightful romp, then things get tricky. The gear is unilaterally brilliant.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10 with Jim

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/10

Tony Holdsworth - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/10

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Andrew

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 31/May/10 with Rob Middleton

Alistair Corbett - 2nd - 23/May/10

sam corbett - Lead O/S - 23/May/10

Felt high in the grade for HVS
AndyFrank - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Mike Burton

Fred Mainwaring - Lead - Apr/10

TonyF - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Awkward, tough and thought provoking. Nice!
jkarran - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Aly

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/09

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with Graeme H

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/09 with Rob

alexyoung - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Dave the Dentist

Good.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/09

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Chris

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09 with Marco

not as tough as i was expecting
Pilch - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/08 with Graham

jw231 - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Al Benson

al99 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

alaan - Solo - 20/Jul/08

gibbo38 - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08 with Phil

Hidden - Solo - 11/Apr/08

Hidden - Sent O/S - 11/Apr/08

TomHaigh - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/08 with Aiden Jones

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Mar/08

Hidden - 2008

tom.e - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/07 with Luke Porter

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Chris Bigwood

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Dad

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Sophie Whyte

Jim Vach - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Jurek

sparkass - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with Jen Randall

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/May/07

Rjukan - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/06

Hot ans sweaty
Jack Symmons - Lead - Jul/06 with Chris T

Budge - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/06 with Carl Tiivas, Dave Valentine-Hagart

Failed my jam-exams on this one ! Being tall did not help in the slightest.
dangerousoldfool - 2nd dog - Jun/06 with Budge

dan gibson - 2006

joe c ook - Lead O/S - Oct/05 with R.Bates

Reds - Lead dnf - 17/Jul/05 with Henry

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 21/May/05 with timmy elson

Nicos - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/05 with mark richardson

shark - Solo O/S - 2005

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Jul/03

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/02

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 29/Jul/01 with Martin Veale

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/00 with Andy R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/99

John Marsland - 2nd - 26/Jun/99 with Allen Newby

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/98

ajc - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/98

clive-greenwood - Lead - 17/Sep/98

Roget - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/97 with jon

kato'sdad - Lead - 02/Jun/96 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - 2nd - 02/Jun/96 with Jon Berry

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 25/May/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Hidden - 1990

beaumap - Lead - Oct/89 with Tim Waddington

babymoac - Lead - 09/Jul/88 with kevin B

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/86

Mark Kemball - Solo - 14/May/83

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/78

Nigel Bond - Lead - 11/May/77 with Tony Cuddy

Dave Musgrove - 28/Jul/74

mikej - Lead - 27/Aug/67 with Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ben.phillips, Hidden, Deezel65, Hidden, Hidden, Benn A, Hoyes, j4kub, jeffsheard, pr1984, pc1983, Hidden, RM199, Jack Whiteley, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Chi Cheng, Hidden, Hidden, Ragnaar, Hidden, Batt, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden, Nom, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 87
hard E10 of 30
E10 of 30
easy E11 of 30
hard HVS20 of 30
HVS7 of 30
easy HVS2 of 30
hard VS0 of 30
VS0 of 30
easy VS0 of 30
hard 5b0 of 29
5b0 of 29
easy 5b3 of 29
hard 5a20 of 29
5a6 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
hard 4c0 of 29
4c0 of 29
easy 4c0 of 29
3 Stars14 of 28
2 Stars13 of 28
1 Star0 of 28
0 Stars1 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 130 (3.1%)
Lead75 of 130 (57.7%)
Followed40 of 130 (30.8%)
Bouldered1 of 130 (0.8%)
Unknown10 of 130 (7.7%)

'Climbed'47 of 130 (36.2%)
clean O/S67 of 130 (51.5%)
clean β2 of 130 (1.5%)
clean rpt7 of 130 (5.4%)
dogged5 of 130 (3.8%)
dnf2 of 130 (1.5%)