|170m, 11 pitches. |
A popular free climb that is much easier than the grade might suggest. The crux pitch offers a stunning traverse under a large roof that can be aided on the fixed gear at roughly V+ A0.
Start left of the prominent southeast arete.
1) IV, 25m. Climb direct then move right on grassy rock to a ledge.
2) IV, 40m. Climb up to a yellow niche on the left then move diagonally right to a stance below a crack.
3) V, 35m. Move up to the crack and climb this direct, overcoming two small bulges, to reach an uncomfortable stance below a niche, formed by two cracks above.
4) V+, 25m. Continue up the corner-crack and move left along a flake to a stance below the roof.
5) VII or V+ A0, 15m. Step back right to the corner and climb this to the roof. Make a sustained traverse right on good but sometimes wet holds, past plenty of fixed gear. Then move up and right through a strenuous corner to a stance on the right upper edge of the roof, just left of the arete.
6) IV-, 40m. Enjoyable and easier climbing on good rock leads left to belay below a yellow crack, just left of a smaller roof.
7) IV, 35m. Don't climb the crack but continue diagonally left then climb a corner-crack near the minor left arete.
8) IV-, 30m. Move right to grassy ground on the arete.
9) IV+, 25m. Climb a steep crack just right of the arete to a stance below a short corner.
10) IV+, 35m. Climb the corner then move left back around the arete and climb a crack to reach a niche on the edge of the arete.
11) IV, 35m. Keep left of the niche and climb a short crack, then follow a ramp easily rightwards to a thread.
12) IV-, 40m. Climb a slab and a short chimney left to reach the Chamois Terrace. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Not really alpine, but not a british trad route either. Climbs a line just left of the right arete until forced out right onto the arete in a wild position by a large roof. Passing this to reach the arete proper is the crux UIAA VII, F6b. Above follow the arete more or less directly.
Photo: Andy Taylor on the brilliant crux pitch of Via Abrams, Piz Ciavazes. 7+ © ajtay
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