Zeus*** E2 5b
[Zeus in the Burbage South Quarries , 3 kb]12m. A pumpy number up the parallel cracks splitting the smooth wall. Best laybacked rapidly to a jugs and a tricky exit. © ROCKFAX
FA. Jack Street 1969

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Big Rons 100 extremes in a day, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Photo: Zeus in the Burbage South Quarries © gamoon
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 121 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

Matt Cooke - Lead rpt - 06/Dec/14 with Rosh

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/14 with Sophie Whyte

soph - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/14 with Rachel Slater

Fine lead by Kirill. I found it tiring enough to second.
cem - 2nd rpt - 19/Aug/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

Used 'tactics' to get up this.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14 with Charles Moreton

Hidden - 30/Jul/14

RKirke - Lead dog - 22/Jul/14 with Dan Barbour

Previous lead '96. Good route.
jshields - 2nd - 09/Jul/14 with Paul Tretheway

Super climbing, every move is a half rest just enofe to put gear in and move on to the next position.
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 22/Jun/14

Used Toms gear and one fall at the top, after a false start. So pumped it hurt!
Gambit - Lead dog - 03/May/14 with Tom

KamilJ - 2nd dog - 2014

feilx - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with Chris Froud

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/13

Bloody hell. Exhausting to belay, even more so to dog to get gear. But fun! Harsh top out hold, but got benefit of previous 'jug' due to skinny fingers.
oddtoast - 2nd dog - 06/Jul/13 with Gav

SamWimpenny - TR - 2013

Fell off just after the layback section, my nut ripped out and I hit the ground, belayer was surprised to see me.
WillDoyle - Lead dnf - 15/Sep/12 with Mike

WillDoyle - 2nd dog - 15/Sep/12 with Mike

Tony Kartawick - 2012

chrisbussell - 2nd - 27/Sep/11

tomjagger - Lead dnf - 05/Aug/11 with Matt Cooke

Somehow managed to fall off when I had the penultimate hold which was pretty gutting.
Matt Cooke - Lead dnf - 05/Aug/11 with Tom Jagger

belay bunny turned bad - Lead dog - 21/Jul/11 with loundsy

Hidden - 2nd β - 21/Jul/11

metal arms - Lead dog - 10/Jul/11

Many years since i was dragged up on 2nd so felt almost like an on-sight. Pumpy from the word go but with excellent gear :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/11 with Richard Williams

most fun i've had whilst belaying... and great to give it a go after!
CRiddiford - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/11 with Jonny

Good fun. Nails in 20C+ temps! Sweaty.
JRae - Lead dog - 02/Jun/11 with C Riddiford

Pythonist - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/11

JohnBear - 2nd - 27/Apr/11 with Mark

My friends made it their mission to talk me into it, eventually i manned up and tried (damn peer pressure). Really enjoyable even with the few scary moments trying to place gear when pumped.
MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with John Niven

After belaying Cragrat on it. Seriously pumpy with very little let up after the initial, run out, layback section. Solid and excellent climbing.
lrandall - Lead - 21/Apr/11 with Rich Crag Rat

Good early season climb which i'd been wanting to do for ages. Committing, run-out, strenuous and enjoyable all at the same time
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11

Thought this would be a good warm up. It wasn't! got mega pumped, and a little nervous on the slopey top out.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with james marjot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

ellis - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11 with Tom Holdsworth

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Mar/11

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 2011 with Adam Moroz

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/10

Pippa - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Jon

FlorianCastagne - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Guillaume Lion

psronan - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10

Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jul/10

This route just keeps going and going, got to the quoted 'jugs' in the guidebook, needless to say they aren't, especially when you're as pumped as i was. Took a rest at 3/4 then just about managed the horrible top out! Good route though.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 08/Jul/10 with Sam Stringer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Shaun

Shauna - 2nd dog - 20/May/10 with Jules

very pumpy start but still placed 2 bits of gear, almost came off at the top
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

mike lawrence? - 2nd - 13/Apr/10 with FatRob

will randall - 2nd O/S - Apr/10 with simon

Hidden - Lead - 28/Mar/10

colkurtz - 2nd - 28/Mar/10 with Robb

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - Lead - 2010

ryanjones - Lead O/S - 2010 with Nick Mattia

Tony Little - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/09 with Ed Brown

hot,humid, midges
Dave Rumney - 2nd - 27/Jun/09 with Sean Roberts

simonp - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Rich & Matt

Matt Bennett - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/09

jameshall - 2nd dog - 21/Mar/09 with Tom Blond

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

jw231 - 2nd dog - 01/Aug/08 with Al Benson

al99 - Lead dog - 01/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

Very hard. Gear is very hard to place on lead.
Will Hunt - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/08 with Sean Jacobs

Tiring stuff. Ran it out at the top for some stupid reason and started bricking it at the top. Good fun though.
butterworthtom - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/08 with Dave Naylor

Hidden - 2008

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Dad

Jim Vach - 2nd β - 02/Jun/07 with ?

Misha - Lead dog - Jun/07

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 01/May/07 with John

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

Apharri - 2nd β - May/07 with Andre Hedger

Pretty knackered and powered out on this, had to really battle towards the top.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Al & Joe

Oceanic - Apr/07

pumped stupid. bit of a sandbag if you ask me.
Jus - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/07

Mr Powly - 2nd - Oct/06 with Sam Bennet

Graeme Hammond - 2nd dog - 23/Sep/06 with Ben Freeman

Boy - 2006

Stig - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/05 with Karl Walton

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Can't claim this one as a proper lead. Neil tried it first and gave up at about half way. I top-roped to his high point & then led the rest.
cem - AltLd β - 06/Jul/03 with Neil Northrop

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/02

reg_measures - 2nd dog - 13/Mar/02 with pete kenyon

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2001 with A. Howarth

jonka - Lead - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

sadams - Lead - 28/Jun/99 with Andy Bowie

bigphil - 2nd dog - 18/Mar/98 with Adam L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/97

ste_d - Lead O/S - 25/May/97 with mik

robyn1 - 1996

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/95 with Nick Ashton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/94

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/93

Roget - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/93 with colin, baccy

John Marsland - 2nd - 01/May/93 with Allen Newby

IanD353 - Lead O/S - Apr/93

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/92

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/92

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 14/Jun/92 with Andy Watts

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1992

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/91 with Bruce woodley

Hidden - 1990

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/86

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 14/Jul/85

Hidden - 2nd - 11/May/85

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/84

stp - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/84

mark-abz - TR - 28/Mar/82 with Andy W

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/80

Mark Kemball - Lead - 08/Dec/79

Andy Say - 2nd - 01/Aug/79

andy gittins - 1972

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gabe Oliver, mapperley samurai, Calum Wadsworth, climberchristy, ben.phillips, CRiddiford, Milnes, aretherenoneleft, alexanderjwatts, Dan Lane, PanzerHanzler, tatz45, adam carless, Headjam

Voting
Total votes cast 56
hard E30 of 19
E30 of 19
easy E32 of 19
hard E211 of 19
E25 of 19
easy E21 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E10 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard 5c0 of 19
5c0 of 19
easy 5c1 of 19
hard 5b1 of 19
5b16 of 19
easy 5b1 of 19
hard 5a0 of 19
5a0 of 19
easy 5a0 of 19
3 Stars9 of 18
2 Stars9 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

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dogged
dnf