Rockfax Description
Majestic! Climb steeply past the jammed block (technical crux?) then trend right to a shallow groove and ledges below the soaring final crack. This is best climbed quickly after placing high runners. A final short steep wall completes this gem. A harder direct start is possible at E3 6a, up the crack and groove to the right, and is worth a couple of stars. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Terry King 1968

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Monopoly, The Millstone 'Streets', World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, 50 of the Best, Top 50 Peak Cracks.

charles-green 24/Jun Lead O/S


GwilymR 08/May Lead O/S
with Jammy
pete1993 06/May Lead O/S

Finally gave it a go and other than a couple of slight wobbles it was nowhere near as tough as I expected!

with Harry
harry_lewis 06/May 2nd rpt
Adam24B 05/May Lead O/S
Kris2fa 05/May 2nd dog
with Adam24B
islandlynx 01/May Lead G/U

Lowered of the chockstone with terminal pump after faffing to get some nuts chucked up. Pulled the ropes and led to the top. Run the top crack out, very gripped and thought I might lose it, just pulled through. Great fun.

DHHZ 30/Apr 2nd O/S
with Rose
Hidden 30/Apr Lead O/S
GPN 30/Apr Lead O/S
with Trad Exchange
kermit_uk 23/Apr Lead dog

Annoyed not to do it clean. Had the jug at the top couldn't find a good left hand stood on rope and slipped and then totally fluffed it. Oh well stunning route will be back soon to finish properly.

with Steve Woolass
Jmpollard 23/Apr Lead O/S

Definitely the nicest finger locks I've ever done, absolutely quality line and overall one of the best routes I think I've done. Really pleased to get this onsight aswell!

Hidden 23/Apr 2nd
Jim Slater 21/Apr Lead dog

Logged for posterity, a dog's dinner, multiple falls on lower crux and was so knackered ended up aiding the upper crack section. Such a great route I will have to give it another go when I've recovered.

with Antonio
Brannock 17/Apr Lead rpt
phil64 01/Apr Lead

great as ever

with Andy Bowman
Antonio Ferra ?/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar Lead rpt
CharlieMack 17/Mar Lead O/S
with Luke Weaver
Sam McCarthy 16/Mar Lead rpt

3rd time lucky

grp 07/Mar Lead dog
James S 07/Mar 2nd
with melty, geoff
Andy Moles 25/Feb Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 25/Feb 2nd
with Andy
Hugobristol 20/Feb Lead dog

Started raining as we racked up, went for it anyway. fell off at the block and twice in the final crack.

with Rob
Dave Turnbull, BMC 23/Jan Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2016 -
Matt77 17/Oct/15 Lead dog

Fell off the last move right at the very top of the finger crack. I'll be back!

with Dan Parker, Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell
TomRiddelsdell 17/Oct/15 2nd β

Great route. Really strenous past the first block and in the upper finger crack. Only just made it up cleanly

The old James turnbull 13/Oct/15 Lead

Awesome as ever!

with dave brown
Mowglee 11/Oct/15 Lead RP

Very pleased to get this clean. Pretty much onsight given the length of time since I last did it. Found the bottom half fairly straightforward, the top crack was hard, and top out desperate. Afterwards found some chipped finger jugs which were filled with grit!

with Antonio
lloydrees91 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with mark
Adam Long 10/Oct/15 2nd
with Pete Robins
Jack93 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Gorgeous! Balancing across the groove to get onto the ledge was particularly fun, nearly got bogged down in the top crack, didn't quite run out of steam though.

Antonio Ferra ?/Oct/15 2nd O/S
DanOsb 25/Sep/15 Lead dog

Not the greatest warm up...

FlavioL1989 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 13/Sep/15 2nd dog
with Flavio
MichaelGallimore 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with jon lawson
Hidden 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
jmills94 05/Sep/15 2nd dog

just absolutely fantastic! good to see the man him self pumping a bit on lead but had no idea how pumpy it was. bottom section to the ledge is all fairly straight forward on good locks and bridges that only diminish slightly at the crux - just move quickly and all will be dine. top crack takes no prisoners! locks are again amazingly good but very thin on the feet and just didnt have the stamina to keep pulling up :( fitness work needed! I will be back, just amazing!

with johnny dawes
Gregory 30/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with jim twohig
pearson9596 15/Aug/15 2nd rpt
quiffhanger 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Cake 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

On sight amidst a rave. I couldn't let some fun lovers stop me climbing such a massive tick. Really funny and i wasn't put off much. Actually thought the music was quite good.

cdpuk 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
RobScarisbrick 08/Aug/15 2nd dog

Bloody hard work, chris had to haul me up this

with cdpuk
Hidden ?/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead dog
London Luke 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Tim_C7 18/Jul/15 2nd
with Luke Williams
matt1024 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
pearson9596 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Titterington
Hidden 20/Jun/15 2nd dog
Allan Watson 20/Jun/15 2nd
with Michael Kurach
BarnDawg 19/Jun/15 2nd dog
dprctr 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Cruised it! Such a perfect route. Bomber gear and holds. Got to enjoy the no hands rest while friends lowered quickdraws down to me! Almost got stumped just below the top out but luckily figured it out.

Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd dog
phildawson 06/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Sam Howell, Stefanie Pöhlmann
Sam McCarthy 05/Jun/15 Lead dnf

all the way to the top of the final crack and couldn't stick it, gutted

max_chan 04/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Gavin PCC
hervenuttall ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Matt W
mattleepianist ?/Jun/15 2nd
amccann 28/May/15 2nd rpt
with Shaun H
shaunhumphreys 28/May/15 Lead RP

dogged a while back! all of it felt ok except the top crack again which i just about managed!

with Alex M
MYox 25/May/15 Lead dog

DOG. Poor footwork. Need crack climbing practice.

Bernie L 15/May/15 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 12/May/15 Lead
with Doddy
andy mcc 11/May/15 2nd dog
with Robin Nicholson
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead
Simon Davis 10/May/15 -

Bloody brilliant!

with Tim P
Leo Woodhead 10/May/15 Lead rpt
with Ian W
Hidden ?/May/15 -
Brannock 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt

So classic

Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Sam McCarthy 26/Apr/15 2nd dog
Tom Bennell 26/Apr/15 Lead
tebs 21/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Sadie, Adam
harry_lewis 19/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/15 2nd
phil64 11/Apr/15 Lead rpt

great rte

with phil baker
felixizzy 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Awesome, must lead!

with Caleb
Kemics 22/Mar/15 Lead dog

Shameful dog, found passing block hard. Then rested/fell at start of finger crack. Must return.

with Felix
druss 07/Mar/15 2nd dog

Felt sustained and hard in a strength way rather than technique, although feet didn't feel great.

with argentinian machine
harry_lewis 17/Feb/15 Lead dog
Dave Heaton 15/Feb/15 2nd
with Martin Cathrow
robertmctague 08/Feb/15 Lead β
Sam Watson ??/2015 2nd dog

Completely fluffed it. Awesome route though.

Louishmouis ??/2015 -
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR O/S
with Louis
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Wine and climb ??/2015 2nd dog
gheadley27 ??/2015 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Tom McCabe ??/2015 Lead dnf

Lowered off just below the keyhole when the rain hit. Turned out to be just a shower, and I should have waited it out.

Hidden 30/Nov/14 2nd
Sam Simpson 09/Nov/14 Lead dog

Unfortunately my foot slipped. Beautiful route and quite steady. Bomber finger locks. Definitely one of my favourites on grit...

Mark Grist 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon, Sam Simpson
shaunhumphreys 04/Nov/14 Lead dog

First half was fine! took a nice fall from the upper crack was going to try it ground up but was pretty tired then just made a total mess of dogging it!!

benkelsey 04/Nov/14 2nd rpt

to retrieve allllll of shaun's gear

with Shaun Humphreys
JamieSparkes 29/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Every bit as good as I'd hoped. Hard work between good rests, so much gear!

with euan, Dafydd Llywelyn
Dafydd Llywelyn 29/Oct/14 2nd
Ewan Russell 29/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 26/Oct/14 Lead dog

Fell at the exit of the finger crack. Nearly did it again second time round.

with Jamie
zcsharp 26/Oct/14 2nd

Really amazing climb, shame Nick slipped on the top crack cause he did a really good job leading it.

Hidden 19/Oct/14 Lead rpt
benkelsey 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt

got half way up only to lower down and retrieve the escaping down jacket. very windy, throwing the rope off for coventry street gear was maybe the crux of the day

Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead rpt
DavidPC 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Johnny D
adam 24 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S


Stuart Johnston 27/Sep/14 Lead RP

Spent too long placing gear beneath the chock stone and then fluffed the move pulling through. Lowered off and climbed clean. Crux is defo getting established on the chock.

Calum Wadsworth 23/Sep/14 Lead β

Fell off coming round the block. So lowered down and did it again clean. managed to place 15 runners in total ...

with Matt F
Nick1812P 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tom A
Teappleby 23/Sep/14 2nd

great moves, crux was definitely getting out to the top crack if you're short, bottom bloke was fine!

Matthew Ferrier 23/Sep/14 2nd rpt
danJBA 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Olga
cjsheps 18/Sep/14 Lead β
phildawson 18/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Chris Shepherd
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
Sidekick 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
clams ?/Sep/14 Lead dog

Lobbed from top of crack. Got the jug but no strength left

with Ben+Ting
ChrisBrooke 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. Felt committed at a couple of points: getting over the first crux and the top of the upper finger crack. Pulling onto the ledge above the crack felt exciting. Perfectly protected route with very comfortable and pleasurable finger jamming. Keeley held my rope, Dunc came along in time to second.

with Keeley Scholes, Duncan Bell
JHC 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Full of sand but still brilliant

Sam Watson 09/Aug/14 2nd
Leo Woodhead 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Absolutely awesome route, can understand why it's tagged as one of the best finger cracks in the UK. The finger locks are fantastic all the way and the upper crack is superb!

with Jim Rogers
al123 ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Henry
French Erick 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Alex Heude
tebs 21/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Ben O Connor
mrteale 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
MrBIond 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
John Gale 06/Jun/14 Lead dog
Brannock 01/Jun/14 Lead


Mark Grist 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
PaulTanton 01/Jun/14 2nd rpt
stuart34 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Loosie
dom94 30/May/14 Lead G/U

Greasy this time round, climbed pretty much the whole thing the other day but had sat on the rope getting over the block, so was nice to send it quickly on my second go

Chris Reid 30/May/14 Lead
Hidden 30/May/14 2nd
amccann 28/May/14 2nd rpt
Tophe 21/May/14 Lead O/S
drysori 21/May/14 Lead
Rachel Slater 19/May/14 Lead O/S

Almost fell off the top! Sport climbing clearly hasn't helped my grit technique.

with Rosie Slater
eduardo 18/May/14 2nd dog

I rest on bulge, one rest on top crack. A lot better than my last effort in 2005.

deacondeacon 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Definitive E2. Cracking route.

phil64 16/May/14 Lead
with dave
Hidden 02/May/14 Lead rpt
ashtond6 02/May/14 2nd rpt

as good as ever

rurp 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great climb, hardest move at block, tricky moving right, great rest, gear and go!!!!

dan gibson 21/Apr/14 Lead rpt
bwestwood 19/Apr/14 Lead
pie_eater_pete 19/Apr/14 -
dav 14/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Gill B
j.buckley87 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Coops_13 30/Mar/14 Lead RP

Rested at first crux, lowered off then led it cleanly

Sarah Black 30/Mar/14 Lead dog

Fell at the top of the finger crack. Meant I got to climb the best bit of the route twice though.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
phildawson 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
tim newton 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 02/Feb/14 Lead rpt

stunning, again! balls first crux but sorted it, was wigged out on the ledge below the splitter. As soon as I started those perfect locks I was loving it again!!! not really a warm up route!

Brown ??/2014 Lead
with James T
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Louishmouis ??/2014 Lead
with Tom
Longsufferingropeholder ??/2014 Lead
with Ed
leohl 29/Dec/13 Lead dnf

Well protected route, beaten by the last move coming out of the top crack which forms the crux. Enjoyable climbing!

robgixer 16/Nov/13 Lead rpt
AidanMorris 16/Nov/13 2nd dog
jon_gill1 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with ross garfoot
Matthew Ferrier 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S


amccann 06/Oct/13 2nd rpt
rd20 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Hilary CC
cobweb 05/Oct/13 2nd

Great climb, pro good, trust your feet !

with Roger Waterworth
Owen W-G 05/Oct/13 Lead β

Fell off top crack in 2010. Cruised it today no problems.

Chris Reid 28/Sep/13 Lead
masa-alpin 10/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with James O
James Oswald 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Only just, I almost fell off this route twice. I placed possibly one runner too many before committing to the crux getting onto the block and got quite pumped getting onto it. On the top crack I almost fell off, unable to finger jam the top section. BETA - the ledge is less good than you hope for...! Great route, one which would be nice to and do the finger crack more easily..

with Masa
Hidden 10/Sep/13 Lead dog
Brannock 08/Sep/13 Lead


Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/13 -
Ramon Marin 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
ashtond6 01/Sep/13 Lead β

best route in peak!! bottom is nails, upper crack felt easy!

alp79 01/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead rpt
tebs 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Nemesis slain. Felt like a path today.

with Tom
Nick Wallis 22/Aug/13 TR O/S

a few laps on the shunt

with shunt
Tom Livingstone 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
skunky456 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Awesome! took every ounce of strength i had to stay on the upper crack, didnt place gear on it so wudve taken a 7-8 metre fall i reckon. But safe so GO FOR IT

Dan Mckinlay ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mrteale 18/Jul/13 2nd
amccann ?/Jul/13 Lead
theloringharvey 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Katherine Durtnell
Hidden 16/Jun/13 2nd dog
climberchristy 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Just superb!!

with Ben Cole
OliverIF 16/Jun/13 Lead

My First E2! Got it second go.

Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd
David Kay 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Getting past the block lower down was the crux for me, but after watching Rachael I think I fluffed the sequence a bit.

spragglerocks 02/Jun/13 2nd dog

Fell off the final crack - annoying. Brilliant climb though.

Alistair Corbett 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

nearly fell on the top crack... abit pumpy but sick route!

with Mike
Mike W 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
michdudeada ?/Jun/13 Lead RP
Pippa 25/May/13 Lead rpt
mountain_jay 25/May/13 2nd
DavidR 19/May/13 Lead dog

Damn it! Bottled the crux yet again, several years after first having a go. Really disappointed. Only good point was that the rest was clean, so a slightly better ascent than 5 years ago.

pearson9596 04/May/13 2nd O/S
ian d f 04/May/13 Lead dog

Tired myself out placing gear in the upper crack then found I'd filled all the holds in.

belay bunny turned bad 02/May/13 Lead
with will
JakeWShaw 02/May/13 2nd dog

Got stuck on final crack and grabbed the gear. Rested and sorted feet out and found it surprisingly ok.

benkelsey 02/May/13 Lead rpt

came back and smashed it! a lot easier in the dry..

Apharri 24/Apr/13 Lead

Never seems to feel any easier

benkelsey 10/Apr/13 Lead dnf

dripping wet, battled up past the finger crack to reach the flatties out right, a few meters below the top...to find huge puddles and dripping jams. wet boots finally won to give my first proper trad fall, happened so fast it wasn't scary! good effort on getting the gear back!!

with HPC
Hidden 04/Mar/13 -
john lynch 04/Mar/13 Lead O/S

even better than expected.

with Joe Holden, ed luke
Hidden 02/Mar/13 Sent dnf
clmbr 13/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with mr g walters
Marcus ??/2013 -
Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
Tomar 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

I've been wanting to do this for a while, it did not disappoint! So happy to onsight it, what a route!

James Oakes 27/Oct/12 2nd RP

Felt easy today, maybe colder than last week.

Chris_barr 27/Oct/12 Lead
with James N, Guy
James Oakes 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Massive whipper from top of crack

Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd
Helen Gibson 20/Oct/12 Lead dog

faffed around bulge placing high gear, then 'took' got up to upper crack move and ran out of energy,'took' then fell ... must try not say the T word next time and place less gear!

with Paul
SPD224 20/Oct/12 2nd
with Jim Hardwick, Martin Smith
JRae 10/Oct/12 Lead

Top class route, the strand is better though. Felt pretty straight forward with loads of bomber gear. Crux is defo getting over the block and the top crack only really felt sustained for 2/3 moves between rests and good gear. Millstone is ace.

with Liam P
Hidden ?/Oct/12 TR dnf
Peter Reynolds ?/Oct/12 Lead dnf
Dingchav ?/Oct/12 TR
Joe Strutt ?/Oct/12 TR
Hidden 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dominic lee 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt
nathanlee 16/Sep/12 2nd
with Dom Lee
Martin Davies 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Colledge, Alice du Preez
mattnuttall 02/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Pat Rainbird
Tamati 01/Sep/12 2nd
Jonathan Hall 01/Sep/12 Lead
with Will Ward
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Lunar25 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Dave LE
Hidden ?/Sep/12 2nd dog
Gambit 14/Aug/12 Lead RP

Fell on the crux, lowered off, pulled the ropes then clean

with Barney
Paul Eckton 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with kevin faux, steve read
Kevster 11/Aug/12 Lead dog

One stop, end of day fatigue

martroberts 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

By far the best pitch I can remember doing in years! Looked at this for many years and thought it would be too hard for me and best to save for the onsight. Found it hard work passing the block low down but had no trouble on what I thought would be the crux further up. Awesome is a far too much used word but this route fits that perfectly!

harold walmsley 05/Aug/12 Lead dog

Poor show. All moves seemed OK when done but could not hang in there to place gear and do a sequence without resting both at the block and the upper crack

with Colin Struthers
Nigel Bond 03/Aug/12 TR
with Bern Hardman
Dibdawg 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Dean177 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S
masa-alpin 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Finally done it! Didn't feel too bad.

with Lee P, Andy Rich
mattyork2 22/Jul/12 2nd

Felt hard today and made some good noises. Cant believe it was more than 5 years ago when I last did this. I wonder if I did this clean? If so, certianly back where I was five years ago. At least for now.

with Brian McAlinden
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Jul/12 2nd
ianjfsutcliffe 07/Jul/12 Lead dog

Stiff warm up.

with Courty
ianjfsutcliffe 07/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Courty
M_W_Court 07/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Jun/12 2nd
with Debbie Birch
Tony Holdsworth 20/Jun/12 Lead dnf

More of a very brief look than an attempt

with Peter Harris
Ed morris 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Time for tea, embankment 3, knightsbridge then finished the day with this. Felt a little insecure but easily the best sustained, varied E2 I have ever done. A real treat.

with Andy
Hidden 20/Jun/12 -
Hidden 14/Jun/12 2nd dog
tuftynick 06/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with miles gibson
Hidden 06/Jun/12 2nd rpt
robertmichaeladams 05/Jun/12 Lead

also really really really good, Millstone is amazing

with Sarah, Mark C
simeclimb68 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Jewel
Dave Foster 20/May/12 Lead rpt
with Si
Spacetourist 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
BRoe 19/May/12 Lead RP

A tad greasy near the top, still an amazing line. Annoyed I didn't get the on sight in april - rained off :(. 3*.

MarkRoe 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Roe
Haydn Jones 17/May/12 2nd O/S
with tonanf
MartinPL 13/May/12 Lead O/S

45min on-sight climbing with camera on a head, no pitons cliped, just two cams used (one as a first, last one 1,5m below the top) and rest of nuts. Great route and really challenge :) i was scared

Stone Muppet 13/May/12 Lead β
with tim
khawk 12/May/12 Lead dog
with DT
Hidden 07/May/12 Lead dog
tonanf ?/May/12 Lead
with hayden
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Apr/12 Lead

Took fall

with Mick Ryan
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Roberto 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
markolst 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
tom.e 14/Mar/12 2nd
pie_eater_pete 14/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with paul sheppard
Andy Peak 1 11/Mar/12 Lead

Two falls one under the first block and one moving rite . Top crack was ace.

treg 11/Mar/12 2nd

With one fall at the block and one nearing the top of the upper crack.

with Ben
david morse 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
markalmack 10/Mar/12 2nd rpt

super fun

mwatson 21/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with johnny
Goose4 14/Feb/12 Lead dog
Hannes B 03/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Sam H
drcorbasisgod ?/Jan/12 2nd rpt
with Marc Weisner
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S

So, so, so cold! Wanted to cry!

with Tom Brookes, Ollie Benzie
tommytuffa 27/Nov/11 Lead

Fell off this some years ago. Very pleased to get it first time this trip... freezing cold. Nearly got blown of no hands rest with my hands in my pockets!!

with Rich H, ollie b
Si dH 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Olly told me the slopey ledge out right from the finger crack was a jug - fortunately it didn;t matter that it wasn't :)

with Olly
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd rpt
colesy 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Joughton 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Get stood on ledge below top crack. Place cam as high as possible. Sprint for top! Awesome, I didn't think I could jam but that was a good a lesson as any.

kiks 23/Oct/11 2nd O/S
bigdrew 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
andysroom 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Kilian, Dave Gent
thomb 22/Oct/11 -
with Andrew
Colin Scotchford 16/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/11 2nd
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
henry peter jenkins 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with paul jones
Hidden 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
GraMc 17/Sep/11 Lead dog

awsome route, was rushing in between rain showers with no warm up and had a foot slip, annoying!!!

robin_hackney 10/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Fell off from about 3m from the top. Knackered my ankle on the way past the ledge. Limped home to plan my return ascent. Bugger.

with Si
bullwinkle 02/Sep/11 2nd dog
with Bart, John
Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
tebs 02/Sep/11 Lead dog


with Jon, Tim
katyvose1 ?/Sep/11 -
with John Vose
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/11 Lead
jack1996 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

awesome route!

with si
peaches69 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with jack
Ahab 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
tonanf ?/Aug/11 2nd
Daniel Heath 28/Jul/11 Lead β

One of those days when evertyhing comes good. Met two friendly climbers, Matt and Rachel. Rachel seemed keen to second a route of this grade, and it made my day to lead it. Very nearly came off around the block, and also freaked out a bit at the top of the crack. The two-finger jams are a dream all the way up the route.

Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jack Loftus 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Nick
Jen Crook 24/Jul/11 2nd
Rich Kirby 21/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Ruth
Liam FLeming 19/Jul/11 -
richardr 09/Jul/11 Lead dnf
belay bunny turned bad 27/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with nicky
dan gibson 27/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with sam read
morganator 19/Jun/11 2nd β
with Jake Morgan
esther ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead β
Dougie Harvey 25/May/11 Lead β
Lawrie Brand 25/May/11 Lead dnf

Fluffed the top crack and pumped out.. one to come back too..

Hidden 20/May/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 20/May/11 Lead O/S

Such a satisfying onsight to complete. Romped up the block (surely only 5b?)... Top crack only got heavy for a couple of moves after leaving good footholds. Minimal tactical gear placing and good confident technique & committment is the key. I was this happy at the top :))))

Glenn Sutcliffe 12/May/11 -
with Pete Cresswell
stephenhartley 12/May/11 2nd
with Burns
Fran S8 08/May/11 Lead β
tallsop 03/May/11 2nd rpt

Good lead from Saxby! Nice one mate!

with Dave Saxby
tebs 02/May/11 Lead dnf

Well and truly whupped by this one. Fell off three times; stupidly trying to downclimb the lower crux, god knows why, it was ok 2nd time round. Struggled to keep my head together despite the bomber gear and took a wimpy slump onto gear in the top crack. Lowered to the rest, had another better go but ran out of juice with my hands on the ledge and fell. Had enough by then and bailed.

with Tim
barrowclough 01/May/11 Lead dog

Sandbagged....crux felt like it was at the top (but probably wasnt!)

with Spod
Kevin Robert Jones 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
davewsargent 25/Apr/11 2nd
pie_eater_pete 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 22/Apr/11 Lead

it all came together nicely and felt pretty cruisy. not as hard as great west by a long shot. lots of rests, perfect gear, bloody marvelous! nice sunny bank holiday with a couple of pints in me. maybe that was the trick.

with wiggy
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd
Phill Mitch 17/Apr/11 2nd rpt

This was my 3rd E2 back in 98,it felt so hard I may have never done it again.Good to second it this time and find it so much easier.

Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt
BeccaSnowden 12/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Tom
thomasadixon 12/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Awesome, downclimbing the crux was the hardest part! Previous try in 4/10 didn't go so well.

with Becca
Hidden 11/Apr/11 Lead dnf
lrandall 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Hard to describe without sounding OTT. A 4* if ever I climbed one.

steve_yo 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with jojo
jess 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with martin
gingerwolf 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Kyuzo 19/Mar/11 -
bigie bob 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 20/Jan/11 Lead O/S
walts4 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dave Rumney ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
cymjt ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Nov/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead dog
sparkass 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Rob Lovatt
mark20 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf

fell off the move over the block once, pulled ropes and though i had got to the top of the finger crack, when my fingers came out of a fingerlock that was running with water, certainly one to go back for.

melonmike 16/Oct/10 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead rpt
JLS 12/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Spectacular fall from the block just as I thought I'd done the move.

with Jacqui
riddle 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt

YES! hadn't planed to climb this but then... very pleased to crush this fairly easily considering I struggled to 2nd it a year ago. ACE!

with Phil Lee
J.Wells 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 18/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead dog
Dogmusher 06/Sep/10 Lead
chrisallan 04/Sep/10 2nd dog
al99 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd
HIGHTOWER 25/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Danny Mickers
Dave Foster 21/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Fell off move going over block twice. Bit anxious not to blow the on sight and missed holds/sequences all over the shop. Lowered off and once I'd given myself a good bollocking lead clean from the ground up. Psyched up on ledge for quite a while before final crack - went quite steady in the end. Beautiful, but fearsomely intimidating, route - one to repeat again and again, now I know how!

with Si 2
FlorianCastagne 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
greenroom 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

What a route. Just keeps punching right to the top. Can't see why it's pegged though, detracts.

with Pocket rocket
Bry 16/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Frith
pete87abs 16/Aug/10 Lead dog

dogged the life out of this almost didnt make the top

richiebongo 10/Aug/10 Lead RP
melonmike 07/Aug/10 2nd dog

Made a mess of the final crack

Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead dog
Speeddemonsi 03/Aug/10 Lead
gordonday 25/Jul/10 Lead dog

missed the clean lead, gutted. fell from last move on crack, got hand sequence wrong.

with clive
BrettB 17/Jul/10 Lead
with tomas
nigel pearson 11/Jul/10 2nd β

I lead it cleanly on Robins gear so more of a sport climb. Hard initial moves

with Robin
Howard Lawledge 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tatz45 08/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Had seconded route about 3 years previously. Stunning climb.

DorsetGareth 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Second E2 - wonderful, but tough!

with Pip
adam06 02/Jul/10 2nd
Gazleah ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with adam radcliff
Mowglee 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Ralph, Tom Nichols
petellis 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Jonothan Richard
Alexandre Buisse 07/Jun/10 Lead

Best route on grit! The upper finger crack with no feet is a challenge, though.

Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd
willoates 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S

olivers 3 pieces of gear were still in below the hard block at the beginning

sgl0jd 03/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead dog
Tez29 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant!

with Tom, Ivan
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Owen W-G 30/May/10 Lead dnf

Wasn't planning to do it this visit, but Max led skillfully so it was only right to have a go. Fell from top of final finger crack while lunging wildly for the sloping ledge, the pump seeing the better of any technique. A bit dirty, lacking in footholds and late in day the days excuses. Not too angry really, gave it a good effort and already looking forward to round two next trip.

with Max
highrepute 25/May/10 Lead dog
natalietanzer 21/May/10 Lead dog

great. but hard...

with nacnud
nacnud 21/May/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 16/May/10 2nd O/S

absolutly brilliant! after a hard move off the ground and a nice move left, the crack gives perfect finger locks for several moves until reaching out to a ledge - fantastic!

barni 14/May/10 Lead dog
with Paul James
Hidden 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead
Ollie B 04/May/10 Lead

fell off crux lowered then did cleanly. brilliant route definately worth its reputation

with J.Monypenny
dj_brigham05 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead
markalmack 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd β
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
DuncanR 23/Apr/10 Lead
with james raitt
Byronius Maximus 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Took a big whipper from the top of the main crack above the ledge. Exciting fall, but absolutely gutted to have blown the onsight. I'll be back for some vengeance!

Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead
steveb2006 10/Apr/10 Lead
with Mick Fowler
gripped01 ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Rob Patchett
tonanf ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Paul R, graeme
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic - laced the top section from the ledge waiting for rain to stop!

Hidden 16/Mar/10 Lead O/S
oliwarlow 14/Mar/10 Lead dnf

perhaps a little ambitious for the first weekend out this year... Felt awesome all the way to the point when a finger lock popped unexpectedly at the top of the upper crack. clipped my ankle on the way down (8m or so), so a repeat attempt was sadly not possible. Fantastic route!

with Polly
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead β
masonwoods101 ??/2010 Lead O/S

shook my way up. pretty hard

buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
greenclimb ??/2010 Lead O/S
Ben1983 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
gnc760 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Upper crack is awesome. Felt like a super hero pulling on finger locks with twisted toes. Quality climb.

with Rose Williams
metal arms 30/Oct/09 Lead dog
pelvoux 17/Oct/09 2nd dog

Lead 2/3 of the way and get stuck half way up the crack before the final wall. Good gear, just a gentle fall. Thanks Mario for the belay and the encouragements and thanks Mumtaz to finish the route, you look so easy!

with Mumtaz
LoopyLou 27/Sep/09 -

A small foot slip on the upper crack.

with emma - Pinnacle Club, Alex - Pinnacle Club
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/Sep/09 Lead

Led first c.1990

with Marcus Payne
Hidden 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 23/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Debbie, loundsy
Ketu 06/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Charles M
cem 06/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Fell off at the top of the final crack & couldn't face getting back on it.

Hidden 03/Sep/09 Lead
OffshoreAndy 16/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Mr Wild 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 12/Aug/09 Lead G/U

Dear me. I can't climb grit when its hot but thats no excuse. Slipped off the sloper at the beginning. cruised the rest which is lovely, the top crack is great!

with Dan Lane
nadeem 12/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Fucking Nails. Fell twice onto good cam placed under the wedged block. Not my day.

with Tom Foote
highrepute 09/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Aug/09 2nd dog
Rob Gladwin ?/Aug/09 2nd dog
climbingpixie 25/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Need to work on my finger locking. Took three falls trying to pass the jammed block and ended up having to leave a wire in situ as it was so well wedged.

with Andy Hobson
Madblock 16/Jul/09 Lead RP

Came back after some time

with Charles
irish paul 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Hidden 11/Jul/09 Lead
miastacey 09/Jul/09 2nd
with Heather Clarke
Graeme Hammond 08/Jul/09 2nd dog

one rest passing the first block so pumped

with Patrick Daniel
Jack00 05/Jul/09 Lead

Flashed with all gear in place from a previous group.

with Gary
Hidden 20/Jun/09 TR
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead dog
frost 29/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andrea
tallsop 24/May/09 Lead

Wicked route, well protected, good honset hard work! Think i must have been the first to climb it after 2 weeks of rain, was very sandy. prob placed around 20 odd runners!- hence me getting pumped an resting a few times on the last crackline (had heard rumours that people falling from here break their legs on the ledge so i made bloody sure that wasnt going to be me!!!) Dont really care that i didnt get it onsight, i enjoyed it! :)

Hidden 06/May/09 2nd dog
Martin Haworth 02/May/09 Lead β
with Rich C.
Richie Rich 02/May/09 2nd dog
with Martin Haworth
middlevern ?/May/09 Lead rpt
with Mike Blood
tuftynick ?/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd
drcorbasisgod 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
alicia 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S

great route! loved the interesting rock lower down. Stood on the halfway ledge for absolutely ages psyching myself up for the upper crack but it was fine in the end.

with Nick Smith
Hidden 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Tony Little 18/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Ed Brown
eddy-on-the-rocks 07/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
DanH9883 07/Apr/09 2nd
with Ed
Dave Bond 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
timbanton 05/Apr/09 -
BeccaSnowden 01/Apr/09 Lead dog

Fell off a few times...

with Tom
thomasadixon 01/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Becca
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 22/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead dog
Harald 02/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S

First grit E2

with Caroline and Dave9
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd dog
CarolineH 01/Mar/09 2nd dog
with Daves 6 and 9
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/09 2nd
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/09 2nd
rockaddiction ??/2009 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2009 Lead O/S
Peter Rhodes ??/2009 -
Dan 85 23/Dec/08 Lead RP

Got major hot aches on the 1st few meters, came down to warm up. Then went pretty steadily. Topout was very gritty/damp.

with Tim
Al Franks 19/Oct/08 2nd RP

The 'practice' involved taking the sweetest, longest fall i have ever taken whilst attempting to lead it; almost worth the loss of the onsight. A brilliant route.

with Hazel
Alasdair88 19/Oct/08 2nd RP

Took a huge fall first on lead. Brilliant.

with Hazel
marceli 16/Oct/08 Lead dnf
with majkel
Misha 12/Oct/08 Lead dog

All going slowly but well till fell off the upper crux resulting in impressive 6 metre fall. Got a wire half way up the finger crack on the second attempt and promptly fell off onto it. Didn't manage the headwall sequence on the third attempt either, so this time had a rest on the wire and finally cracked it fourth go. Need to try again next year!

Skell 04/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
Paul Bowen 20/Sep/08 Lead dog

found the last crack tough, quite warm today fingers slipping. Need more finger jamming practise:(

Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/08 Lead O/S
DavidR 31/Aug/08 Lead dog

Really disappointed not to have onsighted this one. Rested at the crux (but then did it straight off afterwards...annoying!) and then fell off very close to the top of the finger crack.

Hidden 31/Aug/08 2nd rpt
Sankey 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Luke
Rachael Barlow 29/Aug/08 2nd
with Pete Robins
Tim Steward 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Cayzer
OffshoreAndy 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Works Frasier
Lev 26/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/08 2nd dog
Andrew Sloan 17/Aug/08 Lead rpt
inuklm 10/Aug/08 2nd
with Dave Gent
davidgent ?/Aug/08 Lead RP

Attempted on sight but failed. Worked the crux move on abseil and then led clean.

with Kunal
mickersd ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
tonanf 29/Jul/08 Lead rpt

fell at top on first lead, stripped and did clean. should have warmed up, did after 5 hour drive.

with burt
Ram MkiV 25/Jul/08 Lead

wind down with some more crack practice.

with al & andy
Joe Costello 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Quality. one of the best things I've done. Fairly easy until the last crack when I got the sequence wrong and ended up with stupidly high feet and had to pop for the ledge which was good luckily. Liam pissed it.

with Liam
Hidden 15/Jul/08 -
joe larner 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Hidden 25/Jun/08 2nd dog
alaan 23/Jun/08 2nd
with Broom
Ian Broome 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Al
Stig 19/Jun/08 Lead dog

Fell off crack, went wrong handed. Lame.

with Goi
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Ben Wolstenholme 15/Jun/08 2nd
MeMeMe 07/Jun/08 Lead dog

Rested on the first section using the excuse that I needed a chalk bag chucked up!

with Chris
BenJacobs 06/Jun/08 2nd dog

got the sequence in the top crack wrong so had a rest on the rope, fantastic route

with Dave and Nick
catblack ?/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Skippy, rob
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead rpt
chris sm 31/May/08 Lead dog

Really sandy following lots of rain the days before. Fell off the very last move after 25m of sand covered hell.

with Pippa Froggatt
spacey 26/May/08 2nd O/S
with Clive
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 23/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Waring
gregoritos 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with Dougie Hall
Coel Hellier 16/May/08 Lead
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead dog
Hidden 01/May/08 Lead O/S
bfreeman 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Marjot
Pete Graham 21/Apr/08 Lead
with Luke Porter
Martin Haworth 13/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Marek
Chubbard 30/Mar/08 Lead RP


JimR ?/Mar/08 -
with Charles H
lukehunt 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Max Brown
felixthelion ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Classic. Final crack is glorious

daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
andy wa ??/2008 2nd
with Luke
Hidden ??/2008 2nd dog
mbutton ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
ryanjones ??/2008 Lead O/S
gazhbo ??/2008 Lead O/S
Mick r 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Climbed it 3 or 4 years ago with a rest. Straight through this time, but still hung about and placed gear over th efirst bulge. Glad of the breather before setting out on the top wall

with Tom
Barry D 21/Oct/07 2nd
with Steve B
Rich Kirby 07/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Rachel S 07/Oct/07 2nd
with Richard K
MikeLeeds 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Holly
nacnud 30/Sep/07 Lead
Docent 23/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with juras
cem 22/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with David T
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Awesome Route, not as hard as I was told, 3 perfect hands-off rests on the route and the hard section isn't that long really. Quality all the way!

with Deniz Sumengen
lukea ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Rich
Toby Dunn 22/Aug/07 2nd
with Tom Randall
Toby Dunn 17/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with JulesV
cem 13/Aug/07 2nd β
with Ian Frith
Will1 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Mike
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 11/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Andy Cave & Ben Moon
ksjs 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S

superb! really pleased with this, nearly came unstuck on the upper crack. some finger / foot jamming technique useful. solid gear all the way.

with sarah
mattyork2 17/Jun/07 2nd
with alaan and aly
alaan 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Crack slightly sandy after heavy rain but brilliant none the less - the intial crack I found fairly straight forward but the final section I found really really tenuous and only just pulled it off!

Brian Rodgers 03/Jun/07 Lead β
with Rob
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead
Jim Vach 28/Apr/07 2nd
feilx 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Jack Symmons ?/Apr/07 Lead

8m plumet off the finishing holds.

with Chris T
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Nicos 06/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dan woolnough
jamiev 18/Feb/07 Lead dog

fell off on the onsight near top of the hard crack in the middle, after much faff. rested on the ledge, then went for it and did it - the middle crack felt pretty hard for e2 compared with most others, but then I'm not a massive jamming fan. What a quality route though.

with Adrian Berry
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
willackers ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Pete Halliwell
Mike_Hayes ??/2007 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Brilliant route - bit of everything, steep and juggy into delicate slab and then a wonderful steep finger crack on perfect locks. Ruined slightly only by the top out onto loose, broken rocks. Not quite Squamish crack climbing but pretty close!

with Viv
Jus ?/Nov/06 2nd
Andrew Sloan 29/Oct/06 Lead dog
KRB 27/Oct/06 Lead β


with Martin Bridges
steveb2006 30/Sep/06 Lead RP

Gavin also seconds this - fall off from intial bulge. Restart

Luke Brooks 21/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
Alex Mason 03/Jun/06 Lead

after watching steve do it decided to do it again while knackered, clean this time

Hidden 10/May/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
cornishben 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead dog
with Danos
Hidden ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
shark 25/Sep/05 2nd rpt
Alex Mason ?/Sep/05 Lead

again brilliant route! crux is low down on sandy sideways slopers over the bulge paniked and put a cam right in my hand hold and then couldnt make the move and fell removed cam and tonked it then the upper section was sent (after a quick rest and gear placing on the ledge) via fingerjammin and layingback for the top a must for any ticklist

with keith poskitt, rob lonsdale, andy g
Dave Reeve ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Steve Hordley
Hidden 30/May/05 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
JulesV ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
Smelly Fox 03/Aug/04 2nd
lukea 12/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Al
datoon 11/Jul/04 Lead dog
with RT
clive-greenwood 12/Jun/04 Lead dog
with Ray
nickdonohue ?/May/04 Lead


with Jim Barradale
chrishedgehog ??/2004 Lead dog
with Clare Wilkie
shark 30/Dec/03 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Aug/03 Lead O/S
phardman 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Leofallon 28/Jun/03 2nd

Fell from crux placing gear, should have just pushed on

Hidden 15/Jun/03 2nd
shoulders 11/May/03 Lead
with pete lewis, dai
John Southworth ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Fowkes
Hidden 12/Apr/03 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 21/Mar/03 Lead β
with Clare Wilkie
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ?/Aug/02 2nd dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/02 2nd rpt
with Joe Brown
Dave Bond 11/May/02 Lead O/S
with colin
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Jan/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke ??/2001 2nd dog
with Rich
DubyaJamesDubya 08/Oct/00 Lead O/S

One of the best.

with Cedric Favre
skygodley 19/Aug/00 Lead O/S
steveb2006 01/Aug/00 2nd
with Roland Smith
D Tempest ?/Jul/00 2nd
Hidden 11/May/00 Lead
rilem ?/May/00 2nd dog
with Ian W
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Pom
RossG ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 2nd
with Sion
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/99 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/99 Lead O/S
sadams 06/Jun/99 Lead
with John Boyle
ajc 05/Jun/99 2nd dog
BlueJohn 16/May/99 2nd
with JohnnyM
Colin Edwards 09/May/99 Lead
with Simon Gough Brown
Carl Smethurst 21/Apr/99 2nd
with Ian Pickles
steveb2006 19/Apr/99 Lead
with Neville Contractor
Jon Read ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Tanya Holdsworth
steveb2006 23/Jun/98 2nd

Rob climbing well

with Rob Gambles
Rich Kirby 22/Feb/98 Lead
Mark Riley ??/1998 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
Phill Mitch ??/1998 Lead O/S
with gaz
Obi-Wan is lost... ??/1998 2nd
with Calum
Hidden 03/Aug/97 2nd
Chris Reid 06/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
rob.grafton ??/1997 Lead
with barry maybank
WB ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 2nd
mike mo ??/1996 -
leadmat ?/Nov/95 -
Stoney Boy 02/Jul/95 2nd O/S
with Matt Trollet
Hidden 01/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/95 Lead O/S
D Tempest 05/Jun/95 Lead
with Rick
Hammy 02/Jun/95 2nd
with Colin Struthers
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 13/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
mattnuttall 05/Oct/94 Lead O/S

not sure who - SCUM trip

IanGilbertJones 05/Oct/94 Lead β
Dave Musgrove 02/Sep/94 AltLd
with David
Hidden ?/Sep/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/94 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Jun/94 Lead O/S
steveb2006 07/May/94 Lead

Mike also leads so I second it again

with Mike Pycroft
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/May/94 Lead O/S
with Tony Brindle
D Tempest 17/Apr/94 Lead
with Rick
nai ??/1994 Lead
co1ps ??/1994 Lead rpt
with nick sandy
OMSKB ??/1994 2nd

Richard in form with fine style

with Richard Winfield
Martin Bennett 10/Oct/93 -
with MD, MT
andybirtwistle 02/Oct/93 Lead
with Ed Williams, Steve Brewis
ste_d 25/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden ?/Aug/93 -
Hidden 02/Jun/93 2nd
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Mick King 23/May/93 Lead
with Steve Hill
mikedelderfield 12/May/93 2nd O/S
steveb2006 27/Apr/93 Lead

Lead on Mikes gear

with Mike Pycroft
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Craig Barton ??/1993 Lead O/S
Tony Little 18/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Merk
mattnuttall 25/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Gareth Parry
AB1965 20/Jul/92 Lead
whispering nic ?/Jul/92 -
with Graham Iles
The Reaper 30/Jun/92 2nd O/S
NickJH ?/Jun/92 Lead RP
with JaneStannard
steveb2006 10/May/92 Lead

Stop to put a runner in upper crack and get pumped - just make it

with Brian Hamilton
Roget 04/May/92 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
wbo 03/Mar/92 Lead G/U
Hidden ??/1992 -
craig d ??/1992 -
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with derek johnson
Hidden ?/Oct/91 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 06/Sep/91 2nd
with Dan Morgan
Hidden 21/Jul/91 2nd
Steve Crowe 06/May/91 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 05/May/91 TR
adi bryant ?/Apr/91 2nd
with Ollie
petemeads ??/1991 Lead
Richard Weller 29/Jul/90 2nd
with Richard White
Hidden 19/Jun/90 2nd β
Hidden ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
leathers ?/May/90 2nd
with James Thomas
Hidden 13/Apr/90 2nd
mark-abz 08/Apr/90 Lead
with Sheena
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd dog
gordonday ??/1990 2nd rpt
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
BigHairyIan 13/Nov/88 2nd O/S
with Steve Waite (Little Steve)
phardman 21/May/88 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
Sean Kelly ?/May/88 2nd

15 feet of hard climbing.

with Duncan Lee
Hidden 27/Mar/88 Lead O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
steveb2006 31/Aug/87 Lead
with Mervyn Dudley
Guy ??/1987 Lead O/S

Excessively pumped towards the top but a high heal hook saved the day and in turn me from lobbing off.

with The old man
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
Rob Davies ??/1987 Lead dnf

Date? Didn't get past 1st hard moves

with Mick Moss
John Marsland 20/Sep/86 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/86 2nd
steveb2006 17/Jul/86 2nd
steveb2006 18/Jun/86 2nd
with Nigel Robinson (Yorkie)
Hidden 20/Oct/85 2nd
steveb2006 28/Sep/85 Lead dog

Fall from top crack. Forgot my rock boots and had to borrow Max's

with Max Rock
Alan James - UKC and UKH 26/Sep/85 Lead
steveb2006 26/Aug/85 TR

So lacking in ethics. Tried to lead but failed at first bulge. It was a bit wet after recent rain but thats no excuse really

with Max Rock
Hidden 22/Aug/85 Lead
sadams 01/Aug/85 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
shark 17/Jun/85 Lead rpt
with Charlie Stripp
Tim Bateman 19/May/85 2nd
with Dave Leadbetter
Hidden ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
Neil R 29/Jul/84 2nd
with Richard Sanderson
sadams 11/Jul/84 Lead dnf
with Pete Herrod
shark 25/Jun/84 -

30 foot lob breaking my ankle on little ledge 25 foot down

with Dave Marsh
Bruce Kerr 07/Apr/84 Lead
with Rab Young
uphillnow ??/1984 Lead

also 15/6/93 with graeme

Mark Kemball 20/Nov/83 2nd
with Chris Calow
steve L 30/Jun/83 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
Hidden 04/Jun/83 2nd
charlesmfrench 29/May/83 Lead O/S
TonyF 01/May/83 Lead O/S
with Tony Cox
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Dave Musgrove 29/Jul/81 AltLd
with Kim Greenald, Andy Wild
Hidden 27/May/81 Lead
Hidden ?/May/81 Lead
Mike Owen 02/Oct/80 -
with Al Stewart
Andy Stephenson 18/Aug/80 Lead O/S

Dealt with the first crack with no problem: I found the traverse right to be the crux, due to sandy holds. Got a good runner in before starting the finger crack and was up it in no time. Great route.

with Chris Plant
Hidden ?/May/80 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Lead
with Mike O'Brien
Tony Kartawick ??/1979 -

done several times. I think it it is the best E2 in the country

Tony Kartawick ??/1979 -
with Jan Kartawick
Andy Edgar ??/1979 Lead
with Mick Hardwick
Mark Kemball 02/Mar/76 AltLd
with Martin Berzins
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead dog
Al Evans ??/1969 Lead

I find the crack on this route strangely difficult, despite having led it more than once. Incidently a good easy training route for this is Once Pegged Wall across the road!

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 155
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 150
Votes cast 144
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set