South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
Gates of Mordor*** E3 5c

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[Steve Ramsden on Gates of Mordor, 3 kb]16m. The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route swallows medium Friends aplenty and, though the initial groove is a bit of a grovel, the crux is right at the very top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Hank Pasquill 1969

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Cracks And Corners To Greatness.

Photo: Steve Ramsden on Gates of Mordor © raddo
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Brown - Lead - 29/Mar/14 with Lily

Shauna - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with Jules

Ah fell on last move! Great route though
sazmaz - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/13 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

Gopping wet at the bottom, still a bit wet the top crack- not climbable by me in those conditions!
morganator - Lead dnf - 21/Sep/13 with Sophie Whyte

Well, i messed this up a little bit by topping out on the Pin Prick crack, not knowing quite sure whether was in or not. But excellent climbing. Equals about E6 in Pembroke ;)
Ramon Marin - Lead RP - 02/Sep/13 with ciaran tracey

Wayne S - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Deacon

samsimpson - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/13 with Tom Doldon

Fell out of the crack. One more rest then did it. Bit gutted, just got pumped quite quickly and it was quite greasy, so the ring-lock didn't stay in!
Si dH - Lead dog - 16/Jun/13 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Jun/13

Mr Wild - Lead dog - 25/May/13

fell of top crack placed gear in good jam, what a dick!
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 06/May/13 with Tom Martin

Hidden - Lead - May/13

john lynch - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13 with ed luke, Lewis Andrew

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Apr/13

ejected - 2013

Fell off near top of crack
James Oakes - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/12 with Franco Cookson

on bens gear, so as to get away from the midgie bastards asap. good, a little tricky getting to good lock just before crux as some bugger had put gear in the way! top easy enough if the rest has been a clip up ; )
w.pettet-smith - Lead β - 14/Aug/12 with ben

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Jack

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/12

Matt Cooke - Lead dog - 20/May/12 with Rosh

maddy.c - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12

Apharri - 2nd β - 27/Mar/12 with Lewis Andrew

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Could have got clean, disappointing.
Ahab - Lead dog - 14/Aug/11

JulesV - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/11 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/11

Boy - Lead - 19/Apr/11 with Boggo

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/11 with smooth

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/11

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/10 with Tom Everett

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - Oct/09 with Katherine Schirrmacher, Nic Sellars

Nicos - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with rich howels

Had a rest in the mini-peapod, then proceeded to completely dog the upper crack, resting on gear a number of times. Found it really hard to get good jams until the finger jam on the good hold just below the top (at least it looked like the top... great finish on quasi-jugs that keeps you struggling until the very end). Need to come back when I can do slightly overhanging 5c jamming moves! Placed loads of mid-sized cams and a single nut.
Misha - Lead dog - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/09

Far easier than expected.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Kev

Kevin Avery - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with rich kirby

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/09

feilx - Lead dog - 05/Oct/08 with Ben Cole

btc - 2nd dog - 05/Oct/08 with felix coxwell

man, i struggled with this. lack of technique, too much sport recently and cumulative fatigue? anyway, onsight to mid-height ledge and started moves up upper crack only to be greeted by uncomfortable, awkward and slippery jams. stuffing toes in the crack is the answer but thats not so comfy. quite committing if you cant hang around to place gear. after several requests to 'take', some placing gear while holding onto lower gear and too much toe-squashing i decided to bring matters to a close. one to go back for!
ksjs - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/08 with goosebump

Bottled the last move, which was easy after a rest; steady up top there.
Paz - Lead dog - 16/Sep/08 with TS

Tim Steward - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/08 with James Parrot

Fell off a couple of times from the top crack.
Shauna - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/08 with Steve

GrantB - 2nd - 26/Jul/08 with Alaan

3rd time on this thing and by far the least bad performance, still room for improvement though!
Ram MkiV - Lead - 25/Jul/08 with al & andy

One rest.
Coel Hellier - Lead dog - 22/Jul/08

Ian Parnell - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/08 with Adrian Berry

Really good fun!
alaan - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Aly

Cracking route. Inferior jamming skills at fault. Will be back with avengance.
mattyork2 - Lead dog - 08/Jun/08 with Alan Royle

jamesturnbull - Lead - Jun/08 with aiden

Didnt expect to do this really after steve made it look sooo hard, found it ok, slippery ring-locking, and slopey top holds.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 19/May/08 with Thomas Martin

Previous failure. Eventually got a clean lead today. 24/06/06: crazy amounts of chalk and bizarr tick marks all over/up the crack. And then the final slopey jug hold at the top of the crack was dirty! Panicked on the hold, feet pinged a couple of times and eventually blew it.
Ram MkiV - Lead - 26/Apr/07 with Al

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Apr/07

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/07 with AJ

andi turner - 19/Apr/07 with grimer

MONKEY78 - Lead dog - 05/Apr/07 with Jules Vulliamy

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 21/Sep/06 with Geraldine Taylor

TomPR - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Scotty

Andrew Sloan - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/06 with Tony Ball

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/06

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

sadams - 2nd - Jun/04 with Eric Hildrew

Very pleased to lead this, even with 1pt rest. Got wrong handed at the top of the jamming crack and pumped out. Thin jams.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead dog - Jul/03 with Thea Williams

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/01

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/01 with Joe le Sage

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/99

sadams - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/97 with Hugh Cottom

Hidden - 2nd dog - 1994

NickJH - Lead O/S - Aug/92 with H Gott

craig d - 1992

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/89

Year a guess - with Paul Evans ?
shark - Lead O/S - 1988

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 17/Jun/87 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/86

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Sep/81 with John Jefferies

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Al Evans - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexjz, Matthew Ferrier, Hidden, Hidden, stuart34, Sam Marks, mhawk, seankenny, JRae, feilx, Hidden, aretherenoneleft, Hidden, Dino Dave, Siderunner, Hidden, Hidden, Chris_barr, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Bill Lawrence, petellis, datoon, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 60
hard E40 of 22
E40 of 22
easy E40 of 22
hard E33 of 22
E312 of 22
easy E36 of 22
hard E21 of 22
E20 of 22
easy E20 of 22
hard 6a0 of 20
6a0 of 20
easy 6a0 of 20
hard 5c0 of 20
5c18 of 20
easy 5c2 of 20
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
3 Stars6 of 18
2 Stars12 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead57 of 91 (62.6%)
Followed23 of 91 (25.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 91 (1.1%)
Unknown10 of 91 (11.0%)

'Climbed'35 of 91 (38.5%)
clean O/S20 of 91 (22.0%)
clean β2 of 91 (2.2%)
clean rpt1 of 91 (1.1%)
clean RP1 of 91 (1.1%)
dogged26 of 91 (28.6%)
dnf6 of 91 (6.6%)