Rockfax Description
The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route swallows medium cams by the tonne and, although the initial groove is a grovel, the crux is right at the very top. © Rockfax

FA. Hank Pasquill 1969

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Tick List for 2015/2016, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Andy Peak 1 26/Nov Lead dnf

Wet very wet in the crack, got to just before the good finger lock and sliped out, new ambition is to climb this in teribul condishons as its more fun:-)

Hidden 04/Oct Lead O/S
Louishmouis 20/Sep Lead
with Dad
Hidden 20/Sep -
dom94 19/Sep Lead β

pre placed gear

amccann 19/Sep Lead β

On Fabrizio's gear.

Jake Young 19/Sep Lead β

A Grit Day Out !

with Fabritzio, Dom, Tom Appleby, Alex M, Nick
Teappleby 19/Sep Lead β

On fabrizio's gear, was no where near as hard as expected!

Nick1812P 19/Sep Lead β

with gear in.

with Jake
MichaelGallimore 13/Sep 2nd rpt
with jon lawson
soph 05/Sep Lead O/S
with Laura Evans
Hidden 23/Aug Lead O/S
pearson9596 15/Aug 2nd rpt
quiffhanger 15/Aug Lead O/S
ian d f 11/Jul Lead rpt
with Mark S
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd O/S
ian d f 28/Jun Lead dog

Believing a hold in the crack near the top to be a sloper, I committed to some hard lay-backing and missed the really nice fingerlock. Jumped straight back on though and finished fine.

pearson9596 28/Jun 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 21/Jun Lead O/S

Reasomably straightforward until the very top, where the crack disappears, the holds become distinctly slopey and allow you to appreciate just how steep the wall is!

Liam Ingram 21/Jun 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Jun 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 30/May 2nd
with Jenny, nicky, james
FlavioL1989 17/May 2nd O/S

If the cam didn't get stuck I would have not found those two no handed knee bars!

MichaelGallimore 17/May Lead O/S

Amazingle well protected, and the start was great fun! I touched one of my wires in a finger jam. It didn't alter the route enough for me to consider it 'dogged', or to go back and lead it again, but I was disappointed.

with Flavio
Hidden ?/May 2nd
Jackwd 26/Apr Lead dnf

Has to be 6a those top moves. Couldn't get any jams to work just kept taking the lob. Then tried dynoing to the flat hold at the top, latching it once but just didn't have the beans to finish. I'll be back.

Tithe Technique 26/Apr TR dnf

Jack got 1m from the top but did not finish it as it was nails. I gave it a go on his gear in the hope of doing the last move. Had to rest, this is nails. Glad I tried it. Very good effort from Jack.

Matt Cooke 25/Apr Lead rpt
with Rosh
nathanlee 25/Oct/14 2nd
with Dom Lee
dominic lee 25/Oct/14 Lead rpt
GeoffG 14/Sep/14 Lead

Excellent piece of crack climbing.Short and to the point

Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd
Brannock 24/Jul/14 2nd
Robb Bert 13/Jul/14 -

had a sit

pearson9596 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 12/Jul/14 2nd dog

Enjoyed this. Was pretty pleased to get to the bottom of the upper crack in one. Then got destroyed whilst learning new crack technique.

with Michael
Hannes B 30/Jun/14 Lead RP

g-up 1 fall out that slippery top! good fun

with John Br
Brannock 30/Jun/14 2nd dog

Failed at top crack on lead, reet hard.

dannyboy83 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

The anger at being midged help me power through this quickly and not get pumped. Nice route

Rachel Slater 11/Jun/14 Lead β
James Oswald 11/Jun/14 Lead dog

Fell off two moves from the top, shouldn't have bothered to place an extra cam and should have just pressed on. Done second go relatively easily. Shame to have fallen off this one. Amazing knee bar at the pod.

Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead dog
stuart34 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Loosie
Hidden 29/Apr/14 Lead dog
Andy Moles 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Malc
bwestwood 19/Apr/14 2nd
pie_eater_pete 19/Apr/14 Lead
Brown 29/Mar/14 Lead
with Lilifa
Shauna 09/Mar/14 2nd
with Jules
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd dog
morganator 21/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Gopping wet at the bottom, still a bit wet the top crack- not climbable by me in those conditions!

Ramon Marin 02/Sep/13 Lead RP

Well, i messed this up a little bit by topping out on the Pin Prick crack, not knowing quite sure whether was in or not. But excellent climbing. Equals about E6 in Pembroke ;)

with ciaran tracey
Wayne S 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Deacon
Sam Simpson 30/Jun/13 2nd dog
Si dH 16/Jun/13 Lead dog

Fell out of the crack. One more rest then did it. Bit gutted, just got pumped quite quickly and it was quite greasy, so the ring-lock didn't stay in!

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 16/Jun/13 2nd dog
Mr Wild 25/May/13 Lead dog
Andy Peak 1 06/May/13 Lead

fell of top crack placed gear in good jam, what a dick!

with Tom Martin
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
john lynch 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with ed luke, Lewis Andrew
Hidden 24/Apr/13 2nd dog
ejected ??/2013 -
James Oakes 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Fell off near top of crack

w.pettet-smith 14/Aug/12 Lead β

on bens gear, so as to get away from the midgie bastards asap. good, a little tricky getting to good lock just before crux as some bugger had put gear in the way! top easy enough if the rest has been a clip up ; )

with ben
Howard Lawledge 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jack
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Debbie Birch
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Matt Cooke 20/May/12 Lead dog
with Rosh
maddy.c 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Apharri 27/Mar/12 2nd β
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Ahab 14/Aug/11 Lead dog

Could have got clean, disappointing.

JulesV 18/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Boy 19/Apr/11 Lead
with Boggo
steve_yo 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with smooth
Hidden 31/Mar/11 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Jul/10 Lead G/U
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Everett
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead dog
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Oct/09 Lead
with Katherine Schirrmacher, Nic Sellars
Nicos 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Misha 28/Jun/09 Lead dog

Had a rest in the mini-peapod, then proceeded to completely dog the upper crack, resting on gear a number of times. Found it really hard to get good jams until the finger jam on the good hold just below the top (at least it looked like the top... great finish on quasi-jugs that keeps you struggling until the very end). Need to come back when I can do slightly overhanging 5c jamming moves! Placed loads of mid-sized cams and a single nut.

Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jun/09 Lead dog
mike lawrence? 26/May/09 2nd

not sure if Rob held me once i grabbed the ledge

with FatRob
Rich Kirby 23/May/09 Lead O/S

Far easier than expected.

with Kev
Hidden 23/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead
feilx 05/Oct/08 Lead dog
with Ben Cole
btc 05/Oct/08 2nd dog
with felix coxwell
ksjs 28/Sep/08 Lead dnf

man, i struggled with this. lack of technique, too much sport recently and cumulative fatigue? anyway, onsight to mid-height ledge and started moves up upper crack only to be greeted by uncomfortable, awkward and slippery jams. stuffing toes in the crack is the answer but thats not so comfy. quite committing if you cant hang around to place gear. after several requests to 'take', some placing gear while holding onto lower gear and too much toe-squashing i decided to bring matters to a close. one to go back for!

Paz 16/Sep/08 Lead dog

Bottled the last move, which was easy after a rest; steady up top there.

with TS
Tim Steward 16/Sep/08 2nd dog
with James Parrot
Shauna 31/Aug/08 2nd dog

Fell off a couple of times from the top crack.

with Steve
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
GrantB 26/Jul/08 2nd
with Alaan
Ram MkiV 25/Jul/08 Lead

3rd time on this thing and by far the least bad performance, still room for improvement though!

with al & andy
Coel Hellier 22/Jul/08 Lead dog

One rest.

Ian Parnell 04/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Adrian Berry
alaan 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Really good fun!

with Aly
mattyork2 08/Jun/08 Lead dog

Cracking route. Inferior jamming skills at fault. Will be back with avengance.

jamesturnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
with aiden
Alex Mason 19/May/08 Lead O/S

Didnt expect to do this really after steve made it look sooo hard, found it ok, slippery ring-locking, and slopey top holds.

Ram MkiV 26/Apr/07 Lead

Previous failure. Eventually got a clean lead today. 24/06/06: crazy amounts of chalk and bizarr tick marks all over/up the crack. And then the final slopey jug hold at the top of the crack was dirty! Panicked on the hold, feet pinged a couple of times and eventually blew it.

with Al
AJ007 26/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Dan
dan gibson 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
andi turner 19/Apr/07 -
with grimer
DavidEvans 05/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Jules Vulliamy
Luke Brooks 21/Sep/06 2nd
with Geraldine Taylor
TomPR ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Scotty
Andrew Sloan 28/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Tony Ball
Hidden 28/Jul/06 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
sadams ?/Jun/04 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead dog
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 14/May/01 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/01 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
sadams 09/Jul/97 Lead dnf
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden ??/1994 2nd dog
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with H Gott
craig d ??/1992 -
phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/89 Lead O/S
shark ??/1988 Lead O/S

Year a guess - with Paul Evans ?

Dave Musgrove 17/Jun/87 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Neil R 25/Jun/86 2nd
with Mark
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Mark Kemball 16/Sep/81 Lead
with John Jefferies
Hidden 08/Jun/80 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ndraper1, tessa teapot, Hidden, CJSuttz, ashtond6, TradGSmith, mapperley samurai, Ash Sayers, Calum Wadsworth, Hidden, climberchristy, Hidden, alexjz, Matthew Ferrier, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Sam Marks, mhawk, seankenny, JRae, feilx, Hidden, aretherenoneleft, Hidden, Dino Dave, Siderunner, Hidden, Hidden, Chris_barr, Hidden, Hidden, Bill Lawrence, petellis, datoon, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set