Rockfax Description
An excellent and elegant pitch up the long arete, managing to avoid all the crucial sections on the regular route. The loss of a flake/hold has made the lower section harder and bolder; it is still a bit hollow but the positions on the upper arete are superb. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Millstone * HVS In a day, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

mike8331 09/Oct Lead
cem 04/Sep Lead rpt
Gudge 04/Sep 2nd O/S
JasonK 01/Aug Lead
with Kevin
jmills94 17/Jul Lead

Bold start but the moves are honestly not that bad and once properly stood up on the arete on a good foot hold (its in balance) good gear is just half a move away. Upper section beautiful easy but interesting enough moves on good holds.

with chris
Hidden 11/Jul Solo
Colin Scotchford 05/Jul Lead
andybirtwistle 16/Jun Lead
with Steve Clegg
thomaspomfrett 12/Jun 2nd O/S
with Pat Brien
Hidden 07/Jun 2nd O/S
adrianj 07/Jun Lead
mike.moss 30/May Lead O/S
Manc88 15/May Lead O/S

First lead at HVS; very enjoyable. Unprotected/bold start, hard to find big wires lower down. Crux move took some working out (and some balls!), but clean onsight nonetheless :D

Brown 10/May 2nd
with Lilifa
robgixer 26/Apr Lead O/S
Katsmiff 25/Apr Lead O/S

One tricky move stepping around the arÍte, otherwise fine.

Rafal Malczyk 25/Apr 2nd O/S
with Catherine Smith, Martin Bagshaw
Martin Bagshaw 25/Apr 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr Lead O/S
Sardien 06/Apr Lead O/S

Description says excellent and well protected. There is no gear for the best and hardest moves until about 6m up, then it is a bit boring climbing after that, but in a fine position.

Felix la shat ?/Apr Lead O/S
with Louis
Bernie L 22/Mar 2nd O/S
Sam McCarthy 22/Mar Lead O/S
MrBIond 12/Mar 2nd rpt
youwillfindjimbo 02/Feb Lead O/S
john lynch 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Bethan D
Hidden 26/Oct/14 2nd
Dan Vaj 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Dereck
planetmarshall 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Excellent climb, much more satisfying line than the original.

with Peter Stone
alp79 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
ashtond6 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
simon1965 04/Sep/14 Lead rpt

I didn't find this easy or well protected until beyond a hardish move, however it was very satisfying because I've never done before!

with Si Willshire
BenJT 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Matt77 16/Aug/14 2nd

Ryan's first HVS!

David Mayers 13/Aug/14 2nd
with Stuart Howard
Nevil 04/Aug/14 2nd
with Mike
jimbonfire 03/Aug/14 -
James Oswald ?/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Alex Mccan
amccann 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 26/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Nigel Bond 26/Jul/14 Lead
HB1 01/Jul/14 Lead
with KB&D
MrBIond 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/14 2nd
dannyboy83 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hardcore Pat 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Dr Julie, Matt Tregellas
treg 11/Jun/14 2nd
with Julie, Patrick
MD 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Peter M
Happy Wanderer 18/May/14 2nd dog

Missed handy right hand hold half way up direct start.

with Robert
rd20 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jo CC
petegruf 18/May/14 2nd
with Mike cc
jshields 14/May/14 2nd
with Andy Neath, Jeff Ingman
treg 14/May/14 Lead rpt

Great fun to climb again with the knowledge.

with Tim L
oread 05/May/14 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd
Cake 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2014 -
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead
Dan Bates 24/Sep/13 -
g1m147 22/Sep/13 Lead

Better start than original. Bit bold.

with Mick.
Colin Scotchford 22/Sep/13 Lead
pog100 22/Sep/13 2nd
with John Warby, Cath Walton
tsl42 29/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Came down after not sucking it up for the first bit.

with Dylan
Hidden 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S
OliverIF 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd
SandyB 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Cat G
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Cat G 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Run out at the start but good gear after that. I found the middle bit cruxy and took some working out, went straight up the arete, although saw others going to the right at the big ledge..

Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
john lynch 03/May/13 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd
Sam Cooke 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Sustained and sometimes technical climbing of good quality. A little windy when I did it which added to the experience.

with Hal
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
ashtond6 21/Apr/13 2nd O/S
nigel pearson 20/Apr/13 2nd


with Robin
WillDoyle 20/Apr/13 2nd
Jake Young 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Laura
lbarras 17/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with jake
Dawn_K_B 17/Apr/13 TR
ripper 03/Mar/13 Lead

Start looked bold but felt ok once on it. Stayed on the arete all the way rather than moving right, which made the middle section a bit run-out, but a really nice route (first outdoor climb since last August!)

ejected ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle 21/Oct/12 2nd
Kirill 20/Oct/12 2nd rpt
cem 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
asmith37 07/Oct/12 2nd O/S
mark4344 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Philipson, Matt Payne
cheeky 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
ChrisBrooke 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Peter Staves
yarrow 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Chris Craggs 23/Jul/12 2nd


with Dan Parkes
catblack 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jack Symmons
Gambit 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

What a great route!

with Barney
lithos 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S

recommended the direct by PGH, bit bold at start but easy climbing. lovely climbing the whole way with good gear

with Dan McK
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Tamati 25/Jun/12 2nd
jwpil 20/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
gavinpeach 20/May/12 Lead β

Previously led the indirect version.

treg 20/May/12 2nd
with Rachel
Fragmod 12/May/12 Lead
Martin Haworth 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Brannock 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S
treg 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Quite an unusually bold situation for me to get into until the first pro. Felt good for it though.

with Dan Osbaldeston
DanOsb ??/2012 2nd
JaseSSDD 20/Nov/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
Dave 88 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Outstanding. Try and stay on the arete as much as possible. Had to ab for a stuck nut; 45 minutes well spent, you'll not get my gear crag vultures!

with Cousin Jamie
Sam Simpson 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
alias dave 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
ste_d 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Aug/11 2nd
with subaru dave
Andrew Barker 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S


danoflynn 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S
rich_hw 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
tobydunford 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
tomthecoolperson 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew
davewsargent 25/May/11 Lead O/S

as good as the original great route

with david scott
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/11 2nd
jmjw 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Dan P
richardr 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable, slightly bold start. I want o go back and try the super super direct!

mwatson ??/2011 -
melonmike 16/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Joel, liam brown
joe.91 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

One of my favourite climbs I've ever done, much nicer then the normal route and that much more bolder too.

with John Fane, MUMC
Owen W-G 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Andy G
nia 02/Oct/10 Lead
with michael fallon
Jonathan Hall 17/Aug/10 2nd
colin milton 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with James Oswald
James Oswald 10/Aug/10 2nd


JasonV 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Phil
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Bold start!

chrisbussell 02/Jun/10 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Ollie B 28/May/10 Lead O/S
with M.Rankine
mark4344 23/May/10 Lead O/S

hard start as no gear for 1st 10 foot. after that everything sweet.

with james
lamma_hippie 21/May/10 Lead
with Jon Lawton
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Pown 18/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mark20 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Chris Craggs 27/Sep/09 2nd

More rock (a flake) has fallen off the start. Initially bold but mild - if all else fails belay up the bank on the left.

with Colin Binks
AlistairB 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Neil R
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
cem 12/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
tatz45 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
garywong 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
GarethHall 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
nathanlee ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
robin heath ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
crazy pierre ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S
DavidR 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Rachel Hassall
rurp ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S

bold, ground fall potential

Hidden 10/May/09 2nd
Dave Foster 10/May/09 2nd O/S

Bit of a runout to first piece of gear with poor landing. Lovely moves off positive laybacky crimpy holds on the lower arete and big jugs higher up.

with Andy and Alex
alexyoung 10/May/09 2nd O/S

First bit of gear is highish but moves are steady. I noticed the block is little loose as well which the lead didn't notice. Better gear comes very soon.

with Cockney Andy
thomasadixon 07/May/09 2nd O/S
with Graeme
Graeme Hammond 07/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Si dH 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Foster
metal arms 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Diggler 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Jolley
RCrockford 18/Apr/09 2nd
with Chris F
Pilch 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

a little focusing at the start

with Graham and Dan
Little AndyH 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
hrgcb ??/2009 -
Chris the Tall 05/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with Woody
Sgt. Vest 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
SteveM 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Kat
kitkat78 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with SteveM
tom.ireson ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Jens Verhagh
Rachael Barlow 29/Aug/08 2nd
with Phil Robins
Hidden 29/Jul/08 2nd
Different Steve 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/08 2nd
roberto18 15/May/08 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
w.pettet-smith ??/2008 -

great moves on lovely jugs. once the first pro is in (feels quite high) safe as houses. most fun if you stay as left as possible.

mattwyles1 ??/2008 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 16/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Had some useful suggestions from my belayer as I was struggling to suss out the lower section.

with Fiend
Hidden 11/Nov/07 Lead
davidgent ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Lydia
davidgent ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Lydia
OffshoreAndy 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with NCC Steve
Hidden 01/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Kirill 30/Aug/07 2nd
cem 30/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Joe Dove 12/Aug/07 Lead
with paul
Hidden 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 22/May/07 Solo
Hidden 16/May/07 Lead O/S
Jim Vach 28/Apr/07 Lead
with S
Hidden 28/Apr/07 2nd
arin78 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Lara
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Budge 30/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/May/05 Lead
with Andy Hyslop
shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
PenJD 21/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Debbie Willis
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Chris the Tall ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with Paul
DerwentDiluted 11/Oct/02 Lead
with J. Ellson
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Ben
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
BlueJohn 16/May/99 2nd
with Al
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
neilh 10/May/94 Lead
with dave croker
malc 05/Sep/93 2nd
with ??
Roget 15/Aug/93 Solo O/S
uphillnow 26/Mar/93 -
craig d ??/1992 -
Chris Ellis 07/Aug/91 2nd
with Dave Crookes
leathers ?/May/90 2nd
with Andy Dight
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
babymoac 19/Jul/86 Lead
with Jon Stone
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 08/Jun/84 Lead
with Si Gee
Andy Fielding ??/1984 2nd
with Mike Gilbert
Dave Musgrove 28/Mar/82 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
charlesmfrench ??/1982 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 17/Sep/80 Lead
with Tony Welsh
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Hidden ?/Jul/79 Lead
Mark Kemball 10/Sep/78 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Derek Ryden ?/Oct/75 -
with Glynne Andrew
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, nrhardy, roblanddrum, Hidden, Hidden, b.hayley, SimonBrown, My Gravity, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set