South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
Billingsgate** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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[Al finally going for it, 2 kb]20m. The scoop gives fine technical climbing (past lots of rather tired small-wire slots) to a leftwards exit. Originally described as being like a well protected Green Death! © ROCKFAX
FFA. Steve Chadwick 1969

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Photo: Al finally going for it © hannah
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 336 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Brannock - Lead rpt - 28/Jul/14

Little good gear! Great moves but pretty hairy
Deezel65 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/14 with John Ganley

ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14

Bomber micro cams in a few places rather than iffy old wire placements.
eduardo - Lead rpt - 18/May/14

dprctr - 2nd rpt - 18/May/14

With my sack on as it was last route of the day.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 16/May/14

On partners gear
jwpil - Lead O/S - 16/May/14 with Andy Peak 1, Deacon

spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Tom Frost

TRFrost - 2nd β - 04/May/14 with J. Hulbert

RosieLynch - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/14 with Ed Austin, Anthony King

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/14

phildawson - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Tim Newton

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with phil dawson

jimxxx - Lead - 2014

jimxxx - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Oct/13

rd20 - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/13 with Hilary CC

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13

Rafal Malczyk - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Ian Pegg, Rich Apthorp

chrisbussell - 2nd - 03/Sep/13 with Tim O'Neill

Wayne S - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with John

Brannock - 2nd - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/13 with Martin Haworth

Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/13

was nice, but not quite as good as Gaz said
hlegge - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Gareth Hooson, Dan Gyi

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd β - 18/Aug/13

aking12 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/13 with john lynch

john lynch - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/13 with Ant King

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Chris Vanderz

Mike W - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

Brannock - 2nd - 27/Jul/13

Dptidman - 2nd - 30/Jun/13 with Nick Blackburn

g1m147 - 2nd - 29/Jun/13 with Steve

Interesting climbing. Well protected where it matters.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Simon Piron

Great Lead by Gav. good technical climb with interesting moves throughout. My fist E1 second too!
The Norris - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Gavin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13

Thoroughly enjoyable climbing. Took a while to build up to leaving the comfy ledge and committing to the crux. Glad I had two sets of small wires for this one. A horizontal #1 wire protected the initial bold bit, higher up the gear never sits as deeply in the cracks as you would like, but there is enough of it to make the route feel pretty safe as long as you have plenty if small wires.
treg - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Dan Osbaldeston

Rich Malcolm - Lead β - 25/May/13 with Lee Stanley

kicked out a small wire on way to top.. bit spooky!
Helen Gibson - Lead - 08/May/13

Fragmod - Lead - 21/Apr/13

tsl42 - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Gaz Hooson

bclifton - Lead - 2013

Nick Sillem - 2013

climbingpixie - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

mark4344 - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Matt Payne

cheeky - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Mark Philipson

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 09/Sep/12 with Peter Staves

cool route, technical and a bit bold to lead.
Olli-C - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Nige S, Rachel Slater

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Nigel Slater, Olli Crudge

soloed it many years ago, felt quite up hill this time
Tony Kartawick - Lead - 04/Sep/12

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 02/Sep/12

simon1965 - 2nd - 25/Jun/12 with john nuttall

John Nuttall - Lead - 25/Jun/12 with Simon

pmurdy - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12 with Mike W

technical, marginal wires in places. loose top
rurp - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/12

Balancy, good gear though.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

lithos - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with martin h

First E1 in awhile. The gear isn't that great, the moves are techy, the combination is scary but well worth it. Enjoyable looking back.
melonmike - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Josh

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Guido

Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 01/Oct/11 with Robin

robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Dave Foster

Matt Cooke - 2nd β - 30/Sep/11 with Tom Jagger

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Bart, John

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

More of a mental game trusting the small gear. Great moves though.
slacky - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Gary

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with dan geh

Gear wasn't very reassuring, but at least I had a set of I.M.P.S
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Thomas Geh

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11

tricky but fun
al123 - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with alex

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Awsome route, loved it!
JYates - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Alan Caley

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Ray Sharples

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/11

Found the gear to be ok.
JRae - Lead - 11/Jul/11 with Libby K

robal - 10/Jul/11 with corin wilson

Colin Scotchford - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

richardr - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Jul/11

Ahab - Lead O/S - Jul/11

chrisbussell - 2nd - 28/Jun/11 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - Jun/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Ian

good
Ian Broome - 2nd β - 02/May/11 with Becks, Tim

ojp - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

Gear aint great, but its there.
Tim_C7 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with John O'Hara

Hidden - 2nd β - 20/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/11

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with jon stewart

Coel Hellier - Lead - 10/Apr/11

tom.e - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Alan

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 03/Apr/11 with Phil

nadeem - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with DLE

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11

Byronius Maximus - 2nd rpt - 23/Jan/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - Lead dog - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Oct/10

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Ian Holtby

holters - Lead - 25/Sep/10

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/10

Abevan - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with james walker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10

lukesaddler - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Chris Hunter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Aug/10

highrepute - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/10

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Chris Fox

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 28/Jul/10 with Max Richardson

nigel pearson - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Robin

thrutch - Lead - 25/Jul/10 with nathan

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Jamie

A great climb to second. A little thin on gear.
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Pip

vanderz - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with patrick dawson

AMAZING climb!!! Maybe could try leading if feeling confident. Lovely technical moves. Not really any gear at bottom but ok. Higher up lots of great gear-wouldn't have expected from looking at route.
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/10

nai - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Tim

tlr - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with Pom

Good moves on sound rock. Gear seemed okay, though care needed in placing. Recommended.
djones66 - Lead - 17/Jun/10 with Stve mc D

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 11/Jun/10 with Jane Rigby

Hidden - Jun/10

JRigby - 2nd - Jun/10

joe1979 - Lead - 28/May/10

John Pickles - 2nd - 27/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/May/10

garywong - Lead rpt - 15/May/10 with Mark Shale

rd20 - 2nd - 15/May/10 with Gareth H

GarethHall - Lead rpt - 15/May/10 with Robert Dufton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/10

VERY NICE, was expecting bold hard climbing but there are loads more GOOD small wires and holds than it looks from the ground, very soft at the grade
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 06/May/10 with Richard Williams

Hidden - 2nd - 01/May/10

john lynch - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/10 with Lewis Andrew

metal arms - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

hardoreVdiffBen - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Byron Buck

Nice technical climbing and a little scary without the right (small) gear.
Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Ben Littley

Gear is never bomber but OK
mark20 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/10

Hidden - 06/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - Lead - 2010

katyvose1 - 2010

gordonday - Lead O/S - 2010

Good route, fairly tricy move over the bulge, but enjoyable.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Dominic and Helen Oughton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

decs - 2nd - 10/Oct/09 with Bart

Jethro - Lead - Oct/09 with Richard Sharpe

Sankey - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Luke

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Nathan Sharp

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/09

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/09 with Paul Bolton

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 05/Sep/09 with Donna Claridge, Mick Ryan

catblack - 2nd - Sep/09 with rob, Andy Barker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/09

Tobes - Lead O/S - Aug/09

garywong - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Gareth Hall

GarethHall - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Gary Wong

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/09

Started raining at the top which made things rather interesting...
briar4012 - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/09 with Marti

Shauna - 2nd rpt - 24/Jun/09 with nick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 13/Jun/09 with michael porter

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/09 with Rachel Hassall

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/09

Gear felt crap before the moves left. Two poor Peanuts and a very small Friend on two out of the four cams. Only useful piece before that was another very small cam in a slot over to the right at 20 ft. Gear's better higher up but you've got to fully commit to get to it! Frightening but satisfying route.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Alex

Annoyed I rested on this as I wouldn't have needed to with a tiny bit more forethought. Do we climb worse as seconds?
alexyoung - 2nd dog - 10/May/09 with Dave the Dentist

aspyrex - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Tony, Richard

and Marek
Tony Holdsworth - Lead β - 02/May/09 with Richard White

Almost got pushed into leading this, glad I didn't as it would have been scary! Bottom moves are pretty easy but unprotected, then you get up to a series of dubious small nuts, then up and left are the hard moves. Luckily before the hardest of which you get a good nut and cam in. But still the rock doesn't look that solid and the moves must be pretty solid 5b I would say! Good lead by Mike!
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Tom, Graeme, Michael, Andy

simonp - Lead O/S - May/09 with Ivan Green

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

Dave Rumney - Lead - 25/Apr/09

danm - 2nd - 22/Apr/09 with Sion

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Apr/09

Si dH - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Neil Furniss

tom.ireson - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/09 with David Proctor

dprctr - Lead RP - 21/Mar/09 with Tom Ireson

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/09 with Malcolm Scott

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2009 with OffshoreAndy

psronan - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/08

tom.ireson - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Jens Verhagh

mel holmes - Lead - 22/Aug/08 with Tony Reed

mel holmes - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Tony Reed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08

second on one of a halfrope pair - Chris was on the other. Good lead by James, there are some sketchy moves near the top.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with James Rowe

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/08

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Chris

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Joe

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/May/08

worthwhile, quite technical
ksjs - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with goosebump

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with John Nightingale

roberto18 - Lead - 15/May/08 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Dave Oldacres

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/08

tenuous and sustained above half height
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with mick radford

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

Sean Kelly - 2008

mattwyles1 - Lead O/S - 2008

Hard moves below and over the bulge, crap gear but good rest at bulge. Very satisfying technical moves, pleasant change from all the crack jamming climbs.
RocknRoll - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/07 with Chris Astill

Nice route with an insecure and tricky crux. Feels easier than E1 if you have a full set of RPs, swedges and peanuts!
climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/07 with Fiend

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Neil Pope

duzinga - TR O/S - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - TR - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/07

First E1 ever
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Mario

Oliver Sherman - 2nd - 08/Sep/07 with Deniz Sumengen

cem - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/07 with Ian Frith

Joe Dove - 2nd - 08/Jul/07 with kev

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead - May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/07

Nicos - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/07 with rich howels

Rob Kennard - 2007

feilx - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Dan Barbour

John Kettle - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/06

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Martin Hore

Boy - 2006

Jon Greengrass - 2nd O/S - 2006 with john nuttall

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 2006 with Richard

Apharri - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Dave Wharton

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 02/May/05 with Pete Robins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/05

shark - Lead - 01/Sep/04 with Jon Winter

Felt well deserved for E1, so I wouldn`t suggest HVS. Quite taxing technically and good gear placement essential
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - Jul/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/04

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/May/04 with Mark Gill

John Marsland - 2nd - 12/Apr/04 with Arnaud Garcon

lamma_hippie - 2nd - Jun/03 with Jon Lawton

cem - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/02 with Rod Strachan

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/02 with Efua

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/02

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/01

nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/01 with Lee Corbett

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/01

Gambit - Aug/00 with Barney

JohnHutch - TR dog - Apr/00 with L

tlr - Lead - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Dropped all my wires at half height. Made for an exciting finish, Doh!
marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Mel

ArnaudG - 1999

Couldn't psyche for the thin moves around the bulge. Gear not really a comfort here.
Phil West - Lead dnf - 03/May/98 with David Atherton

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/98

Great moves in the groove.
Scott McRae - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/97 with Steve Lucas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/97

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/97

ChrisJD - Lead - 1997 with rc

Scary as HVS
BruceW - Lead O/S - 1997

Roget - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/96

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/95

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/95

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/95

Chris Ellis - Lead rpt - 31/May/95 with Dan Morgan

andrew300169 - 2nd - 30/Apr/95 with Tim

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/95

John Southworth - 1995

WB - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/94 with Nicola

Terrifying - thought it would never end
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jun/94 with Bill G

rob.grafton - 2nd - 26/May/94 with Bruce

IanD353 - Lead O/S - Jun/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/92

John Marsland - Lead - 05/Sep/92 with Dave Soles

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/92

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/92

AB1965 - Lead - 22/Jul/92

AB1965 - Lead - 22/Jul/92

leathers - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/92 with Charlotte Evans

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/92

Hammy - 2nd - 19/Apr/92 with Fai Kwong, Mandy Kwong

Budge - Lead - 1992 with Brian Ottewell

craig d - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/90

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jul/90

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/90

NickJH - Lead - Apr/90 with D Townsend

NeilGriffiths - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 23/Sep/89

phardman - Lead O/S - 20/May/89 with Bill McKee

NickJH - Lead O/S - Apr/89 with D Townsend

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Alan James - UKC and UKH - 2nd - 23/Jul/87 with Nigel Gregory

John Marsland - Lead - 13/Jun/87 with Mark

Hidden - 1987

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/85

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/85

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/84

John Marsland - 2nd - 05/Aug/84 with Tony Rex

sadams - Lead - 11/Jul/84 with Pete Herrod

neilh - Lead - 11/May/84 with Tom Shenton, nig

John Marsland - 2nd - 07/Apr/84 with Dave Mould

Tom V - 1984

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 03/Jul/83 with Nige Shaw

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/82

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 28/Mar/82

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

AlanLittle - 2nd - 1982 with John Walters

nbotting - 1982

mark-abz - 2nd - 09/Sep/81 with Andy W

Hammy - Lead - 17/Apr/81 with Jonathon Stacey

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/81

Ken Taylor - 2nd - 15/Aug/80 with Jonathan Lagoe

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

Mark Kemball - Lead - 11/Aug/79 with Paul Clark

Al Evans - 1976

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, alexjz, Matt250, Hidden, Hidden, Ragnaar, Hidden, Hidden, RM199, Steve Waters, Mynydd, a13x, Albie, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 223
hard E20 of 75
E21 of 75
easy E21 of 75
hard E12 of 75
E147 of 75
easy E19 of 75
hard HVS14 of 75
HVS1 of 75
easy HVS0 of 75
hard 5c0 of 75
5c0 of 75
easy 5c1 of 75
hard 5b2 of 75
5b57 of 75
easy 5b13 of 75
hard 5a2 of 75
5a0 of 75
easy 5a0 of 75
3 Stars7 of 73
2 Stars54 of 73
1 Star11 of 73
0 Stars1 of 73
Bag of .....0 of 73
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 336 (0.3%)
Lead193 of 336 (57.4%)
Followed102 of 336 (30.4%)
Toproped3 of 336 (0.9%)
Alt Leads2 of 336 (0.6%)
Unknown35 of 336 (10.4%)

'Climbed'139 of 336 (41.4%)
clean O/S158 of 336 (47.0%)
clean β7 of 336 (2.1%)
clean rpt23 of 336 (6.8%)
clean RP2 of 336 (0.6%)
dogged5 of 336 (1.5%)
dnf2 of 336 (0.6%)