Six different ways of doing the crux. All of them hard!
Andy Peak 1 - TR - 25/May/15 with shunt
Fell off getting up to the overlap. took me a few goes to work it out, then pulled ropes and lead clean
markalmack - Lead RP - 04/May/15 with will
NDD - 2nd - 26/Apr/15 with Howard
phil64 - 2015
First E5 attempt. Got spanked, although reckon I'm on for headpointing it. Safe but desperate.
deacondeacon - Lead dnf - 04/Jul/14
Well 'ard, thought I was off twice!
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Stuart
Dan-Cheetham - 2014
Apharri - Lead RP - 10/Aug/13 with Ed Austin
At Millstone with Ken, Brian and Ian on Ken's last day climbing in the UK. The crag was his choice - a good one, of course. After a couple of warm ups (Lyons Corner House LH lead and Billingsgate second), I couldn't resist a challenge. I was pretty sure I could get up London Wall but not necessarily clean, so White Wall it was - my first attempt on an E5 lead. Getting to the crux was hard enough (pumpy placing the gear) so had a couple of rests. The gear is good though. Spent a while trying the crux but at best could only tickle the crack. Handed over the ropes to Ian, who tried a different way involving bridging but again close but no cigar. Brian had a go next and promptly found an easy way to get onto the first decent foothold, as opposed to the desperate direct approach that Ian and I had gone for. Yet even Brian got shut down by the crux, though he did get a wire into the bottom of the crack. I then pulled the ropes and had another go. This time getting to the crux was ok - knowing the moves and where the 'rest' was made a massive difference. With the gear in, it was like redpointing! Tried all sorts of trickery on the crux but in the end the way that worked best was my original approach of rocking over onto a high left foot in the larger horizontal pocket, with my right hand in the top vertical pocket with the little finger at the top. On the last few goes I was pretty close to getting the crack - the key was weighting the left foot by driving the left knee leftwards. I was getting tired though, so gave up for the day and Brian stripped the gear on abseil. It should go, so Ian and I will be back! Ken had a nice day doing classic HVSs with Brian. Trying hard routes means you get nothing done!!!
Misha - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/13 with Ian W
Messed up placing the gear first go, didn't find the right fingerlock for the crux, hole in shoe grew. Thankfully got it 2nd go with tighter shoes and the right beta (gear in place up to the first crux). Really cool route, and much harder than London Wall IMO.
Daniel Heath - Lead RP - 19/Jun/13
1 Fall, faffed around for too long committing to the moves to gain the pocket just below the overlap.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead - 2013 with Mal Scott
rockaddiction - Lead dog - May/12
Attempted a few years back, nice to finish it off. Still felt desperate though!
alaan - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Ed
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011
Hidden - 2011
GeoffG - 2011
phil64 - 2011
JulesV - Lead O/S - 2010
ground up, second attempt.
dav - Lead - 06/Sep/09 with Gill B
Hidden - Lead - Sep/09
Hidden - TR dog - 18/Aug/09
mattcyp88 - TR dnf - 18/Aug/09 with Will Horton, Jon Pownall, Dave Spencer
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Nick Smith
nic42 - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/09 with Luke
Hidden - 2nd β - 01/Apr/09
lukehodson - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/08 with Hazel
Boy - Oct/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08
Flumexed by the move to pass the overlap - desperate!
alaan - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/08
Too hot today in those peg pockets but didn't get on at all well with the despo rockover crux. Reckon I'd have failed in good conditions anyway! Received another rope burn for my efforts. Shit!
Ram MkiV - Lead dnf - 06/May/08 with Tommy M
superb in every way just need to get it clean
had a rest so..
andy gravestock - Lead dog - 12/Feb/08 with alex mason ,
ground up, been on this on a different occassion about a month ago, found moves powerful and route pumpy, this time knowing a bit more about the moves found it quite straight foreward and loved it. great climbing. 2/10/07 "fell off crux 3 times but returned to deck each time, then feet pinged crossing the overlap caught by a marginal micro-cam, then lowered off the peg, definately will be back, excellent (tough) climbing."
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 04/Nov/07 with Andy Reeve
Toby Dunn - Lead dog - 27/Mar/07 with Ruth
Toby Dunn - 2007
redjerry - Lead - May/06 with Josh Horniak
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005
Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005
chrishedgehog - 2nd dog - 13/Jul/04 with Chris Bigger
tlr - 2nd - 2000 with Adrian
tuftynick - 2nd - 2000 with simon nadin
sadams - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/99 with John Boyle
Jon Read - Lead β - 15/Aug/98 with Tanya Holdsworth
Mike Owen - 10/May/98 with Elaine Owen
Hidden - 2nd - 1998
Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Oct/95
Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 06/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton
Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/95
Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe
ste_d - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/93 with mik
Stoney Boy - Lead - 26/Jul/93 with Bob Marks
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 22/Jul/93 with Fliss Butler
mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 12/May/93 with Steven Delderfield
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Apr/93 with Andy McKay
Hidden - Lead β - 1993
Hidden - Lead - 1993
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/92 with Andy Mackay
Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/92
craig d - 1992
Hidden - Lead - 01/May/90
keefe - 1990
phardman - TR dog - 16/Sep/88 with John Lloyd
1 fall on crux, then yo yo'ed (old skool!)
Billg - Lead dog - 1988
Hidden - 1987
Hidden - 2nd - 1983
One of my hardest grit leads.
Chris Craggs - Lead O/S - 1980 with Steve Warwick
Robmwatt - 1980
Robmwatt - 1980