Rockfax Description
The smooth wall left of the deep corner, linking ancient peg-holes via hard moves. The crux is reaching and passing the overlap, although the rest is no pushover. © Rockfax

FFA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Hard Grit history, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Andy Peak 1 25/May TR

Six different ways of doing the crux. All of them hard!

markalmack 04/May Lead RP

Fell off getting up to the overlap. took me a few goes to work it out, then pulled ropes and lead clean

NDD 26/Apr 2nd
phil64 ??/2015 -
deacondeacon 04/Jul/14 Lead dnf

First E5 attempt. Got spanked, although reckon I'm on for headpointing it. Safe but desperate.

dannyboy83 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Well 'ard, thought I was off twice!

Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
Apharri 10/Aug/13 Lead RP
Ed Austin
Misha 29/Jun/13 Lead dnf

At Millstone with Ken, Brian and Ian on Ken's last day climbing in the UK. The crag was his choice - a good one, of course. After a couple of warm ups (Lyons Corner House LH lead and Billingsgate second), I couldn't resist a challenge. I was pretty sure I could get up London Wall but not necessarily clean, so White Wall it was - my first attempt on an E5 lead. Getting to the crux was hard enough (pumpy placing the gear) so had a couple of rests. The gear is good though. Spent a while trying the crux but at best could only tickle the crack. Handed over the ropes to Ian, who tried a different way involving bridging but again close but no cigar. Brian had a go next and promptly found an easy way to get onto the first decent foothold, as opposed to the desperate direct approach that Ian and I had gone for. Yet even Brian got shut down by the crux, though he did get a wire into the bottom of the crack. I then pulled the ropes and had another go. This time getting to the crux was ok - knowing the moves and where the 'rest' was made a massive difference. With the gear in, it was like redpointing! Tried all sorts of trickery on the crux but in the end the way that worked best was my original approach of rocking over onto a high left foot in the larger horizontal pocket, with my right hand in the top vertical pocket with the little finger at the top. On the last few goes I was pretty close to getting the crack - the key was weighting the left foot by driving the left knee leftwards. I was getting tired though, so gave up for the day and Brian stripped the gear on abseil. It should go, so Ian and I will be back! Ken had a nice day doing classic HVSs with Brian. Trying hard routes means you get nothing done!!!

Ian W
Daniel Heath 19/Jun/13 Lead RP

Messed up placing the gear first go, didn't find the right fingerlock for the crux, hole in shoe grew. Thankfully got it 2nd go with tighter shoes and the right beta (gear in place up to the first crux). Really cool route, and much harder than London Wall IMO.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead

1 Fall, faffed around for too long committing to the moves to gain the pocket just below the overlap.

Mal Scott
rockaddiction ?/May/12 Lead dog

one slip

alaan 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Attempted a few years back, nice to finish it off. Still felt desperate though!

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
dav 06/Sep/09 Lead

ground up, second attempt.

Gill B
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/09 TR dog
mattcyp88 18/Aug/09 TR dnf
lukehunt 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Nick Smith
nic42 13/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Apr/09 2nd β
lukehodson 19/Oct/08 2nd dog
Boy ?/Oct/08 -
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
alaan 07/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Flumexed by the move to pass the overlap - desperate!

Ram MkiV 06/May/08 Lead dnf

Too hot today in those peg pockets but didn't get on at all well with the despo rockover crux. Reckon I'd have failed in good conditions anyway! Received another rope burn for my efforts. Shit!

Tommy M
andy gravestock 12/Feb/08 Lead dog

superb in every way just need to get it clean had a rest so..

Alex Mason 04/Nov/07 Lead rpt

ground up, been on this on a different occassion about a month ago, found moves powerful and route pumpy, this time knowing a bit more about the moves found it quite straight foreward and loved it. great climbing. 2/10/07 "fell off crux 3 times but returned to deck each time, then feet pinged crossing the overlap caught by a marginal micro-cam, then lowered off the peg, definately will be back, excellent (tough) climbing."

Andy Reeve
Toby Dunn 27/Mar/07 Lead dog
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
redjerry ?/May/06 Lead
Josh Horniak
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
chrishedgehog 13/Jul/04 2nd dog
Chris Bigger
tlr ??/2000 2nd
tuftynick ??/2000 2nd
simon nadin
sadams 06/Jun/99 Lead dnf
John Boyle
Jon Read 15/Aug/98 Lead β
Tanya Holdsworth
Mike Owen 10/May/98 -
Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Hidden 21/Oct/95 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Aug/95 2nd
Nick Ashton
Southern Mark Smith ?/Aug/95 Lead RP
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
ste_d 25/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 26/Jul/93 Lead
Bob Marks
Alan James - UKC and UKH 22/Jul/93 Lead
Fliss Butler
mikedelderfield 12/May/93 2nd O/S
PaulTanton ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Andy McKay
Hidden ??/1993 Lead β
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Rich Kirby 20/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Andy Mackay
Hidden ?/Feb/92 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1992 -
Hidden 01/May/90 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
phardman 16/Sep/88 TR dog
John Lloyd
Billg ??/1988 Lead dog

1 fall on crux, then yo yo'ed (old skool!)

Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1983 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead O/S

One of my hardest grit leads.

Steve Warwick
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 14
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set