White Wall*** E5 6b
[Nigel on White Wall, 2 kb]22m.

Rockfax Description
The smooth wall left of the deep corner, linking ancient peg-holes via hard moves. The crux is reaching and passing the overlap, although the rest is no pushover. © ROCKFAX

FFA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Hard Grit history, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

Photo: Nigel on White Wall © GeoffRadcliffe
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This climb is in 67 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

Six different ways of doing the crux. All of them hard!
Andy Peak 1 - TR - 25/May/15 with shunt

Fell off getting up to the overlap. took me a few goes to work it out, then pulled ropes and lead clean
markalmack - Lead RP - 04/May/15 with will

NDD - 2nd - 26/Apr/15 with Howard

phil64 - 2015

First E5 attempt. Got spanked, although reckon I'm on for headpointing it. Safe but desperate.
deacondeacon - Lead dnf - 04/Jul/14

Well 'ard, thought I was off twice!
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Stuart

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

Apharri - Lead RP - 10/Aug/13 with Ed Austin

At Millstone with Ken, Brian and Ian on Ken's last day climbing in the UK. The crag was his choice - a good one, of course. After a couple of warm ups (Lyons Corner House LH lead and Billingsgate second), I couldn't resist a challenge. I was pretty sure I could get up London Wall but not necessarily clean, so White Wall it was - my first attempt on an E5 lead. Getting to the crux was hard enough (pumpy placing the gear) so had a couple of rests. The gear is good though. Spent a while trying the crux but at best could only tickle the crack. Handed over the ropes to Ian, who tried a different way involving bridging but again close but no cigar. Brian had a go next and promptly found an easy way to get onto the first decent foothold, as opposed to the desperate direct approach that Ian and I had gone for. Yet even Brian got shut down by the crux, though he did get a wire into the bottom of the crack. I then pulled the ropes and had another go. This time getting to the crux was ok - knowing the moves and where the 'rest' was made a massive difference. With the gear in, it was like redpointing! Tried all sorts of trickery on the crux but in the end the way that worked best was my original approach of rocking over onto a high left foot in the larger horizontal pocket, with my right hand in the top vertical pocket with the little finger at the top. On the last few goes I was pretty close to getting the crack - the key was weighting the left foot by driving the left knee leftwards. I was getting tired though, so gave up for the day and Brian stripped the gear on abseil. It should go, so Ian and I will be back! Ken had a nice day doing classic HVSs with Brian. Trying hard routes means you get nothing done!!!
Misha - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/13 with Ian W

Messed up placing the gear first go, didn't find the right fingerlock for the crux, hole in shoe grew. Thankfully got it 2nd go with tighter shoes and the right beta (gear in place up to the first crux). Really cool route, and much harder than London Wall IMO.
Daniel Heath - Lead RP - 19/Jun/13

1 Fall, faffed around for too long committing to the moves to gain the pocket just below the overlap.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead - 2013 with Mal Scott

one slip
rockaddiction - Lead dog - May/12

Attempted a few years back, nice to finish it off. Still felt desperate though!
alaan - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Ed

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

phil64 - 2011

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2010

ground up, second attempt.
dav - Lead - 06/Sep/09 with Gill B

Hidden - Lead - Sep/09

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Aug/09

mattcyp88 - TR dnf - 18/Aug/09 with Will Horton, Jon Pownall, Dave Spencer

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Nick Smith

nic42 - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/09 with Luke

Hidden - 2nd β - 01/Apr/09

lukehodson - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/08 with Hazel

Boy - Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08

Flumexed by the move to pass the overlap - desperate!
alaan - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/08

Too hot today in those peg pockets but didn't get on at all well with the despo rockover crux. Reckon I'd have failed in good conditions anyway! Received another rope burn for my efforts. Shit!
Ram MkiV - Lead dnf - 06/May/08 with Tommy M

superb in every way just need to get it clean had a rest so..
andy gravestock - Lead dog - 12/Feb/08 with alex mason ,

ground up, been on this on a different occassion about a month ago, found moves powerful and route pumpy, this time knowing a bit more about the moves found it quite straight foreward and loved it. great climbing. 2/10/07 "fell off crux 3 times but returned to deck each time, then feet pinged crossing the overlap caught by a marginal micro-cam, then lowered off the peg, definately will be back, excellent (tough) climbing."
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 04/Nov/07 with Andy Reeve

Toby Dunn - Lead dog - 27/Mar/07 with Ruth

Toby Dunn - 2007

redjerry - Lead - May/06 with Josh Horniak

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

chrishedgehog - 2nd dog - 13/Jul/04 with Chris Bigger

tlr - 2nd - 2000 with Adrian

tuftynick - 2nd - 2000 with simon nadin

sadams - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/99 with John Boyle

Jon Read - Lead β - 15/Aug/98 with Tanya Holdsworth

Mike Owen - 10/May/98 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 2nd - 1998

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Oct/95

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 06/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

ste_d - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/93 with mik

Stoney Boy - Lead - 26/Jul/93 with Bob Marks

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 22/Jul/93 with Fliss Butler

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 12/May/93 with Steven Delderfield

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Apr/93 with Andy McKay

Hidden - Lead β - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/92 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/92

craig d - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/90

keefe - 1990

phardman - TR dog - 16/Sep/88 with John Lloyd

1 fall on crux, then yo yo'ed (old skool!)
Billg - Lead dog - 1988

Hidden - 1987

Hidden - 2nd - 1983

One of my hardest grit leads.
Chris Craggs - Lead O/S - 1980 with Steve Warwick

Robmwatt - 1980

Robmwatt - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theomoore, AndrewJamesCherry, angus, Andy Peak 1, nigel pearson, Harry Chaplin, jack1996, Mike Goldthorp, aretherenoneleft, Audrey @ The Castle, stuc, Matt Bennett, St0neMonkey, Matt Fry, chris sm, mikekeswick, lukea, tonanf, the real weeman, beegsyboy

Total votes cast 42
hard E60 of 14
E60 of 14
easy E60 of 14
hard E50 of 14
E513 of 14
easy E51 of 14
hard E40 of 14
E40 of 14
easy E40 of 14
hard 6c0 of 15
6c0 of 15
easy 6c0 of 15
hard 6b6 of 15
6b7 of 15
easy 6b2 of 15
hard 6a0 of 15
6a0 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
3 Stars9 of 13
2 Stars4 of 13
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