The smooth wall left of the deep corner, linking ancient peg-holes via hard moves. The crux is reaching and passing the overlap, although the rest is no pushover. © Rockfax
FFA. Steve Bancroft 1976
Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Hard Grit history, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E5 ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Andy Peak 1||25/May||TR||
Six different ways of doing the crux. All of them hard!
Fell off getting up to the overlap. took me a few goes to work it out, then pulled ropes and lead clean
First E5 attempt. Got spanked, although reckon I'm on for headpointing it. Safe but desperate.
Well 'ard, thought I was off twice!
At Millstone with Ken, Brian and Ian on Ken's last day climbing in the UK. The crag was his choice - a good one, of course. After a couple of warm ups (Lyons Corner House LH lead and Billingsgate second), I couldn't resist a challenge. I was pretty sure I could get up London Wall but not necessarily clean, so White Wall it was - my first attempt on an E5 lead. Getting to the crux was hard enough (pumpy placing the gear) so had a couple of rests. The gear is good though. Spent a while trying the crux but at best could only tickle the crack. Handed over the ropes to Ian, who tried a different way involving bridging but again close but no cigar. Brian had a go next and promptly found an easy way to get onto the first decent foothold, as opposed to the desperate direct approach that Ian and I had gone for. Yet even Brian got shut down by the crux, though he did get a wire into the bottom of the crack. I then pulled the ropes and had another go. This time getting to the crux was ok - knowing the moves and where the 'rest' was made a massive difference. With the gear in, it was like redpointing! Tried all sorts of trickery on the crux but in the end the way that worked best was my original approach of rocking over onto a high left foot in the larger horizontal pocket, with my right hand in the top vertical pocket with the little finger at the top. On the last few goes I was pretty close to getting the crack - the key was weighting the left foot by driving the left knee leftwards. I was getting tired though, so gave up for the day and Brian stripped the gear on abseil. It should go, so Ian and I will be back! Ken had a nice day doing classic HVSs with Brian. Trying hard routes means you get nothing done!!!
|Daniel Heath||19/Jun/13||Lead RP||
Messed up placing the gear first go, didn't find the right fingerlock for the crux, hole in shoe grew. Thankfully got it 2nd go with tighter shoes and the right beta (gear in place up to the first crux). Really cool route, and much harder than London Wall IMO.
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2013||Lead||
1 Fall, faffed around for too long committing to the moves to gain the pocket just below the overlap.
Attempted a few years back, nice to finish it off. Still felt desperate though!
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2011||-|
ground up, second attempt.
Flumexed by the move to pass the overlap - desperate!
|Ram MkiV||06/May/08||Lead dnf||
Too hot today in those peg pockets but didn't get on at all well with the despo rockover crux. Reckon I'd have failed in good conditions anyway! Received another rope burn for my efforts. Shit!
|andy gravestock||12/Feb/08||Lead dog||
superb in every way just need to get it clean had a rest so..
|Alex Mason||04/Nov/07||Lead rpt||
ground up, been on this on a different occassion about a month ago, found moves powerful and route pumpy, this time knowing a bit more about the moves found it quite straight foreward and loved it. great climbing. 2/10/07 "fell off crux 3 times but returned to deck each time, then feet pinged crossing the overlap caught by a marginal micro-cam, then lowered off the peg, definately will be back, excellent (tough) climbing."
|Toby Dunn||27/Mar/07||Lead dog||
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||Lead O/S|
|Jon Read||15/Aug/98||Lead β||
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||06/Aug/95||2nd||
|Southern Mark Smith||?/Aug/95||Lead RP|
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||22/Jul/93||Lead||
|Rich Kirby||20/Sep/92||Lead O/S||
1 fall on crux, then yo yo'ed (old skool!)
|Chris Craggs||??/1980||Lead O/S||
One of my hardest grit leads.