Rockfax Description
A popular testpiece. Difficulties escalate to a hard final move - easier after a quick rest on the rope! The sandy roof above the cave gives a gripping struggle passing an ancient bong peg. The bottom section is often done on its own being hard but safe, though the belay spikes in the cave have now gone. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1976

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Monopoly, 50 cracks to Squamish, The Millstone 'Streets', World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

jamesturnbull 13/Oct Lead

Done clean and few years ago. Today bottom went fine but rested coming out of the cave having gone the wrong way through the sand. Then got scared on the head wall. Awesome

with dave brown
Adam Long 10/Oct AltLd

Led first pitch, Pete top great

with Char Williams, Pete Robins
pearson9596 15/Aug Lead G/U

To the cave.

quiffhanger 15/Aug Lead G/U

On Mike's gear & to the cave. V close to the flash - still don't know why I fell off!

Nick1812P 16/Jul Lead β

1st pitch on Ben's gear, happy to get the flash.

with Ben
benkelsey 15/Jul Lead RP

Finally. Very hot, just first pitch. E4 6a?

with Shaun Humphreys
Simon Davis 10/May Lead

Pitch 1 E4 6b on Tim's gear.

with Tim P
Hidden 26/Apr Lead RP
harry_lewis 23/Apr Lead RP

First pitch at e4. managed to get a nut stuck by the rest

harry_lewis 19/Apr Lead dog

fell off the last move going into the cave

M_Robinson 15/Apr TR
Andy Peak 1 22/Mar Lead dnf

Fell at the crux again!! Softer shoes next attempt!!

robertmctague 08/Feb Lead G/U

P1, e4

with Theo
benkelsey 04/Nov/14 Lead dnf

grabbed the ledge at the keyhole to the left of the crack - very slopey. didn't quite have the power to stick it and took the fall onto the peg. so very close.

with Shaun Humphreys
Hidden 19/Oct/14 Lead RP
benkelsey 19/Oct/14 Lead dnf

went for the flash, felt alright to the peg, fluffed it. two more ground up ascents getting slightly higher.

Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead RP
Tommy Moore 05/Oct/14 TR dnf

Just climbed to the tat, without gear getting in the way or needing taking out this felt about HVS/E1 on TR. Good effort from D and J.

dan gibson 22/Sep/14 Lead RP

Tried the first pitch about 8 years ago but failed. Climbed both pitches in a oner first go this time. The top section through the roof is exciting, the headwall is no pushover with pump and ropedrag.

with helen gibson
danJBA 22/Sep/14 2nd dog
James Oswald 10/Aug/14 Lead dog

Two falls. Will try properly next time. Ace route.

with Alex Mccan
ashtond6 12/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Fell off today at top crux

jonleighton 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

P1 only

ashtond6 06/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Battered with flash pump after the rasp, lovely moves but could not keep going as could not remove the pump

Hidden 03/May/14 TR
pie_eater_pete 19/Apr/14 Lead
LRob 14/Apr/14 Lead

Climbed to peg. Thought about lowering but then got scared at the thought of lowering of peg in mud. So cracked on. Not 6b through the roof but good fun.

Brannock 06/Oct/13 Lead dog

P1, woff woff, reet hard.

Misha 08/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Dogged to death! Fine to the resting ledge on the bottom section, then well hard! Had best part of ten goes getting past the peg and then again on the last couple of moves. A high left foot was the answer both times. Probably not too bad if you can figure out the moves straight away but would still be hard. Safe as houses so didn't really take any falls, more like slumps onto gear. Couldn't get last the moe over the roof - it's nails! I reckon it's a leftward facing rockover onto a high left foot. Abbed for the gear and apart from that move the top section looked ok.

with Ed
eduardo 08/Sep/13 TR dnf

Found the lower crack very hard, failed to get even to the peg.

with Misha
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead dog
Andy Peak 1 29/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Fell from last move lowered of will go back this week and finish

Apharri 24/Apr/13 Lead RP

Fell on the crux last week. Ok this time. P1 only.

Marcus ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead dog
Daniel Heath 06/Sep/12 Lead

1st half, Very safe. Was put off by the horrible sandy cave.

Howard Lawledge 05/Aug/12 Lead
with luke
Hidden 20/Jun/12 -
markalmack 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S

1st lead of the season. Didn't realise it was 6b at the time, not sure it was. No gear after that big peg in the cave. I was gripped! Shame about the sand in the middle. didn't find that bit fun. 6b climbing with no gear in the upper half of the route = E5

mwatson 21/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with johnny
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Adam Long 15/Oct/11 Lead

As one big pitch. E4 6a to the cave, then 6b round the roof, and bold up the top wall = E5.

with Char Williams
JRae 25/May/11 Lead dnf

with M Scott
thomasadixon 12/Apr/11 Lead dog

Felt easy up to the crux...which I then failed on miserably. Finally got with a long reach, tough!

with Becca
steve_yo 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Up to the cave only

with jojo
CharlieMack 09/Apr/11 2nd dog

Got the crux, then both my feet popped! Held on for a few more seconds, but in vain. Gutted!

JulesV 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt

1st pitch

with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 08/Feb/11 Lead dnf
Ed Booth 20/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Had a mooch to second half, but not got my trad haed fully warmed up after winter of bouldering. Need to get back on it tho, looked ace! Scary enough rapping off the peg.

Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
Rich Kirby 18/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Eric Hildrew
dj_brigham05 16/Aug/10 Lead dog

Couple of hard moves near top. Couldn't be bothered to go for RP

highrepute 07/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
rockaddiction ?/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 13/May/10 Lead O/S
edinbed 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First evening routes of the year. With Steve Adams

dav 11/Apr/10 Lead

fell off the crux, lowered to the ground and lead next go.

with Gill B
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/Sep/09 2nd

Crack only. Led in c.2001.

with Marcus Payne
Mr Wild 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

to cave

Hidden 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
mux 29/May/09 Lead dog

Very hot and greasy

with Simon and Andrea
Boy 09/May/09 -

Full route after doing section to cave five or so years earlier

with Fiona Fullwood
timbanton 05/Apr/09 -
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead dog
Oli 18/Mar/09 Lead dog

Failed. Again. I'm such a fucking punter.

with Dave
Michael Ryan ??/2009 TR
with Donna Claridge
lukehunt 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Rapped off from the cave - awesome crack

with John Strokes
Ram MkiV 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S

last route of the day, inspired to have a go mainly as practice for squamish. seconded al on his routes today too so was pretty tired on this and expected to really struggle but found it relatively ok which was nice. great fun laying one on for the top.

with Al
Brown ?/Aug/08 Lead β
with Henry
alaan 23/Jun/08 Lead

Without the cheeky aid of a peg this time. Had a look at the roof but backed off once I got thoroughly sandy.

with Broom
goi.ashmore 19/Jun/08 Lead RP

P1 only

with James Rees
Stig 19/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Goi
dominic lee 16/Jun/08 Lead rpt

topped out.

with andy elliot
alaan 09/May/08 Lead O/S

Just to the cave and cheekily stepped on a peg stub for the last move, so will have to go back at some point.

with Oli
Oli 09/May/08 Lead dnf

Alright until the thin last bit, but tried to lay away and didn't see a toejam that would have made it easier.

with Alan
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead
Alex Mason 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

climbed first 1/2 poorly and cruised the crux. easiest 6b ever. Its possible, albeit tricky, to thread the peg at the crux with a normal dyneema sling, easier with a skinny one.

with Andy Reeve
Toby Dunn 17/Aug/07 2nd
with JulesV
ksjs 13/Aug/07 Lead dog

E36a version (only up to cave) surprisingly awkward - took me approx 7 gos before i reached the cave. nice climbing throughout. IIRC the peg is tricky to clip but the gear is bomber and nearby

with mark
lukea 28/Jul/07 Lead dog
with Rich
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 11/Jul/07 2nd
with Andy Cave & Ben Moon
Hidden 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
feilx 09/Apr/07 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 24/Apr/05 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
Gus ??/2004 Lead

Pitch one only, E3 6b.

with luisa giles
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 12/Jun/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/00 Lead β
sadams 26/Mar/00 Lead rpt
with unseconded
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Dave
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead

1st half E3

Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead dog
with Dave Edmunds
ste_d 14/May/95 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden ??/1995 2nd dog
Steve Crowe 01/Oct/93 Lead O/S

1 rest to clean rocks shoes on the section above the cave.

with KM
Hidden 27/Jun/93 2nd
mikedelderfield 12/May/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead dog
Rich Kirby 20/Sep/92 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 25/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Gareth Parry
Hidden ?/Nov/91 -
Hidden ?/Oct/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/91 Lead O/S
sadams 21/Jun/91 Lead
with Kev Mellieu
Hidden ?/Aug/90 -
phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
phardman 16/Sep/88 Lead dog
with John Lloyd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/Sep/87 Lead

Pitch 1 only

amstel 17/Sep/87 -
Bruce Kerr 22/Aug/87 Lead
with Dave Simmonds
Hidden ??/1987 -
sadams 06/May/85 Lead dnf
with Chris Thwaites
andy gittins ??/1985 Lead
Mike Owen 10/Oct/84 -
with Joe Picalli
steve L 14/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theomoore, Andy Myers, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dean177, drcorbasisgod, dean79, Hidden, feilx, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, derekb, Audrey @ The Castle, Mike Goldthorp, Hidden, Hidden
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 26
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set