Coventry Street*** E5 6b
[Coventry Street, Millstone. E5?, 2 kb]22m. A popular test-piece, usually the best chalked-up of the cracks. Difficulties escalate as the cave approaches with a hard final move (always easier after a quick sit on the gear). The sandy roof above the cave gives a gripping struggle passing a fat old peg (6a). The bottom section is often done on its own, hard but safe, choose a grade then abseil off. © ROCKFAX
FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1976

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Monopoly, 50 cracks to Squamish, The Millstone 'Streets', World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

Photo: Coventry Street, Millstone. E5? © david morse
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 110 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Oct/14

Hidden - TR dnf - 05/Oct/14

Tried the first pitch about 8 years ago but failed. Climbed both pitches in a oner first go this time. The top section through the roof is exciting, the headwall is no pushover with pump and ropedrag.
dan gibson - Lead RP - 22/Sep/14 with helen gibson

danJBA - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/14 with dan gibson

Two falls. Will try properly next time. Ace route.
James Oswald - Lead dog - 10/Aug/14 with Alex Mccan

Fell off today at top crux
ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 12/Jul/14

P1 only
jonleighton - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14

Battered with flash pump after the rasp, lovely moves but could not keep going as could not remove the pump
ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/14

Hidden - TR - 03/May/14

pie_eater_pete - Lead - 19/Apr/14

Climbed to peg. Thought about lowering but then got scared at the thought of lowering of peg in mud. So cracked on. Not 6b through the roof but good fun.
LRob - Lead - 14/Apr/14

P1, woff woff, reet hard.
Brannock - Lead dog - 06/Oct/13

Dogged to death! Fine to the resting ledge on the bottom section, then well hard! Had best part of ten goes getting past the peg and then again on the last couple of moves. A high left foot was the answer both times. Probably not too bad if you can figure out the moves straight away but would still be hard. Safe as houses so didn't really take any falls, more like slumps onto gear. Couldn't get last the moe over the roof - it's nails! I reckon it's a leftward facing rockover onto a high left foot. Abbed for the gear and apart from that move the top section looked ok.
Misha - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/13 with Ed

Found the lower crack very hard, failed to get even to the peg.
eduardo - TR dnf - 08/Sep/13 with Misha

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/May/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/May/13

Fell from last move lowered of will go back this week and finish
Andy Peak 1 - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/13

Fell on the crux last week. Ok this time. P1 only.
Apharri - Lead RP - 24/Apr/13 with Lewis Andrew

Marcus - 2013

ejected - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Sep/12

1st half, Very safe. Was put off by the horrible sandy cave.
Daniel Heath - Lead - 06/Sep/12

Howard Lawledge - Lead - 05/Aug/12 with luke

Hidden - 20/Jun/12

1st lead of the season. Didn't realise it was 6b at the time, not sure it was. No gear after that big peg in the cave. I was gripped! Shame about the sand in the middle. didn't find that bit fun. 6b climbing with no gear in the upper half of the route = E5
markalmack - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Dave morse

mwatson - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/12 with johnny

maddy.c - Lead O/S - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

As one big pitch. E4 6a to the cave, then 6b round the roof, and bold up the top wall = E5.
Adam Long - Lead - 15/Oct/11 with Char Williams


JRae - Lead dnf - 25/May/11 with M Scott

Felt easy up to the crux...which I then failed on miserably. Finally got with a long reach, tough!
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 12/Apr/11 with Becca

Up to the cave only
steve_yo - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with jojo

Got the crux, then both my feet popped! Held on for a few more seconds, but in vain. Gutted!
CharlieMack - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11 with Rik Battye

1st pitch
JulesV - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/11 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Feb/11

Had a mooch to second half, but not got my trad haed fully warmed up after winter of bouldering. Need to get back on it tho, looked ace! Scary enough rapping off the peg.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead - 17/Oct/10

Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/10 with Eric Hildrew

Couple of hard moves near top. Couldn't be bothered to go for RP
dj_brigham05 - Lead dog - 16/Aug/10 with Thom Simmons

highrepute - Lead dog - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - Jun/10

rockaddiction - Lead RP - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/10

First evening routes of the year. With Steve Adams
edinbed - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10

fell off the crux, lowered to the ground and lead next go.
dav - Lead - 11/Apr/10 with Gill B

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/09

to cave
Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09

Very hot and greasy
mux - Lead dog - 29/May/09 with Simon and Andrea

Full route after doing section to cave five or so years earlier
Boy - 09/May/09 with Fiona Fullwood

Hidden - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Mar/09

Michael Ryan - TR - 2009 with Donna Claridge

Rapped off from the cave - awesome crack
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08 with John Strokes

last route of the day, inspired to have a go mainly as practice for squamish. seconded al on his routes today too so was pretty tired on this and expected to really struggle but found it relatively ok which was nice. great fun laying one on for the top.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/08 with Al

Brown - Lead β - Aug/08 with Henry

Without the cheeky aid of a peg this time. Had a look at the roof but backed off once I got thoroughly sandy.
alaan - Lead - 23/Jun/08 with Broom

P1 only
goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 19/Jun/08 with James Rees

Stig - Lead dog - 19/Jun/08 with Goi

topped out.
dominic lee - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/08 with andy elliot

Just to the cave and cheekily stepped on a peg stub for the last move, so will have to go back at some point.
alaan - Lead O/S - 09/May/08 with Oli

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/May/08

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/08

climbed first 1/2 poorly and cruised the crux. easiest 6b ever. Its possible, albeit tricky, to thread the peg at the crux with a normal dyneema sling, easier with a skinny one.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Andy Reeve

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 17/Aug/07 with JulesV

E36a version (only up to cave) surprisingly awkward - took me approx 7 gos before i reached the cave. nice climbing throughout. IIRC the peg is tricky to clip but the gear is bomber and nearby
ksjs - Lead dog - 13/Aug/07 with mark

lukea - Lead dog - 28/Jul/07 with Rich

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 11/Jul/07 with Andy Cave & Ben Moon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/07

feilx - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/07 with Dan Barbour

Richard White - Lead RP - 2007

Boy - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/05 with Nic Sellers

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/01

Hidden - Lead β - Jun/00

sadams - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/00 with unseconded

tlr - 2nd - 2000 with Dave

1st half E3
tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Jon Read - Lead dog - Aug/99 with Dave Edmunds

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 14/May/95 with mik

Hidden - 2nd dog - 1995

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/93

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 12/May/93 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead dog - 1993

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/92

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/92 with Gareth Parry

Hidden - Nov/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/91

sadams - Lead - 21/Jun/91 with Kev Mellieu

Hidden - Aug/90

phardman - Lead dog - 16/Sep/88 with John Lloyd

Pitch 1 only
Alan James - UKC and UKH - 17/Sep/87 with Matt Snape

amstel - 17/Sep/87 with Alan James - UKC

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 22/Aug/87 with Dave Simmonds

Hidden - 1987

sadams - Lead dnf - 06/May/85 with Chris Thwaites

andy gittins - Lead - 1985

Mike Owen - 10/Oct/84 with Joe Picalli

steve L - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/84 with Alun Richardson

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

Al Evans - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Dean177, drcorbasisgod, dean79, feilx, derekb, Audrey @ The Castle, Mike Goldthorp

Voting
Total votes cast 63
hard E60 of 23
E60 of 23
easy E60 of 23
hard E50 of 23
E52 of 23
easy E53 of 23
hard E42 of 23
E411 of 23
easy E43 of 23
hard E32 of 23
E30 of 23
easy E30 of 23
hard 6c0 of 22
6c0 of 22
easy 6c0 of 22
hard 6b2 of 22
6b8 of 22
easy 6b10 of 22
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6a0 of 22
easy 6a0 of 22
3 Stars8 of 18
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