Rockfax Description
Fine climbing with good rests and great positions. Climb the right wall of the open corner on edges to the arete as for Scoop Connection. Step around right to a small ledge and climb the thin fingery cracks with difficulty to a final long reach. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Tick List for 2015/2016.

Sam Simpson 16/Nov Lead dog

Messed up on the crux, went left to the arete for some reason, then went right and it went fine

ndraper1 16/Nov Lead

2nd'd after sam first (clean, should have just onsighted but it's been 4 years away from the grit!) went back for the lovely lead with Jonny Dawes in audience!?! superb route the epitomy of being back home on an autumn day. Mush.

with Sam
patrickcd 12/Oct Lead
with Ed
Lukem6 04/Oct Lead dnf
shaunhumphreys 27/Sep Lead G/U

fine today!

pete1993 27/Sep Lead dnf

fell a couple of times, felt doable on the second go, will be back

with Ben
Teappleby 27/Sep 2nd

So much easier than a couple of years ago. Was pretty steady today.

benkelsey 27/Sep 2nd rpt

Found this desperate on lead at the beginning of summer. Total cruise when not gripped

with Shaun Humphreys
MSchobitz 27/Sep Lead RP

after having fallen off on 2 separate attempts while seconding 2 years ago. required a sketchy slap. but such a good route!

phil64 25/Sep Lead rpt

Suspense till the last moves!

with matt dean
rajeshwarbisht 15/Aug 2nd dnf
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 15/Aug Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 18/Jul 2nd

Good effort from Duncan. Lead this a couple of years ago. Hard crux moves. Cracker of a route.

with Duncan Bell
Martin Bagshaw 21/Jun Lead O/S

Learnt how to fingerlock on the route which was cool. Also received a standing ovation from the crag upon arriving at the top. I guess I made it look as hard as it felt!

with Ed Green
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd O/S
lawlolly 18/Jun TR O/S

Amazing route over the water. Crimpy and difficult move at the top. Fantastic

salix 06/Jun Lead
with Caitlin, Neus
Hidden 05/Jun Lead
soph 28/May 2nd rpt
with Maria Pilarski
Compo 25/May Lead O/S
with Kev Faux
Kevster 25/May 2nd
with jon C
benkelsey 24/May Lead O/S

Took a while and not cruised but great route

mrteale 22/May 2nd β
with MrBlond
Hidden 22/May 2nd rpt
Tommy Moore 20/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/May Lead O/S
DavidR 10/May Lead O/S
Matt Groom 10/May Lead
bantamdave 04/May 2nd dog
with Will
Hidden 04/May Lead O/S
admackie 29/Apr Lead

went the right way this time, nice

with andy
Andy Peak 1 29/Apr Lead rpt

Hard work after laps on billy whiz

BigTone 26/Apr 2nd dog

The moves up from the peg felt nails!

scott quinn 25/Apr Lead O/S

fiddly small gear before the first crack section then its up to the peg and a good wire, rude not to...slightly spoilt by the resting ledges would be an awesome *** without

Tom.Priestley 25/Apr 2nd O/S

Bold at the start but ok after. Don't drop your wires!!

Hardcore Pat 23/Apr Lead dog

Had a mini panic and grabbed the peg.

with Dr Julie
harry_lewis 22/Apr Lead β

mostly on Shaun's gear

with Matt Lyons, Alex McCann
shaunhumphreys 22/Apr Lead dnf

fairly close! fell off stood next to the peg as i got my self in some weird postition and couldn't clip it. wires dont look great but held! lowered off to save for another day!

with Dawn
mattlyons 22/Apr 2nd dog
Andy Peak 1 11/Apr Lead rpt

wat a route:-)

Hidden 11/Apr 2nd O/S
Neal Jobling 11/Apr 2nd dog

Need to go back and lead this.

with Gavin Singleton
Mark Warnett ?/Apr Lead dog

Tough crux couldn't work it out and committed to bad sequence before falling. Tough route. Presume arÍte is out at crux?

Louishmouis ?/Apr Lead O/S
with Felix
spragglerocks 14/Mar 2nd

Fell off on the move off the ledge to the peg - hard if you're short.

with Mike Grant
theomoore 17/Jan Lead O/S


with Roisin
Mike W ??/2015 -
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR O/S
with Louis
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
griffithpatrick ??/2015 -

First Sheffield Mountaineering Club climbing trip. Pre placed gear bar the top peg. Fell of crux. Tried again - climbed down off crux onto ledge. Tried again and got it. The cheers from the crowd helped! Really good belayer forgot his name but if you see this thanks! lol

morganator 01/Nov/14 Lead
with martin gibson
Stefan_Morris 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt
lena.drapella 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Benjamin Corbey, dannyboy
jamiev 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Tim Parkinson
Hannes B 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Charlie
CharlieMack 03/Oct/14 2nd O/S

A great climb, glad i wasn't on lead with my baggy shoes! Scary.

with Hannes
dom94 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Sweaty climbing today, with some tough moves but not that sustained

Calum Wadsworth 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Chuffed bit sweaty mind.

with Matt F
Wizzy 28/Sep/14 Lead G/U

Got 3rd go. Felt really hard, but I suppose it's not really my bag!

Matthew Ferrier 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
barrowclough 27/Sep/14 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
Jono_LS16 ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jshields 31/Aug/14 Lead

Really pleased to get this clean, worth 3 stars for the position.

robblowen 23/Aug/14 2nd dog

Awesome route, felt really thin and technical on the upper wall!

with Jonny
ashtond6 23/Aug/14 Lead β

Sublime. Awesome positive bold wall, technical safe arete, desperate crimping above small gear, then a pop for the top on tired arms. Special route

Billg 19/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Tougher than I remembered - would get tech 6a in Pembroke !

with Phoebe Gregory, Dave Gregory
Olli-C 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Stood on the ledge for a while before commiting. Psyched to get the onsight.Thanks to Chris for the arduous belay.

with Chris Waddle
j.buckley87 03/Jul/14 2nd O/S
robertmichaeladams 29/Jun/14 Lead

Might have just tickled the peg, whoopsy

with Chris Down
James Oswald 11/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Lots of midges, couldn't really concentrate and fell off the crux repeatedly. Most of the gear is pretty reasonable. As I fell my chalkbag fell off..

hutchay 01/Jun/14 2nd dog

Very hard, but well protected

with Dave Clover
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with stefan
hotfeet 04/May/14 Lead dog
with StuartP
Andy Moles 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Malc
Chriswallis2 14/Apr/14 Lead β
with Andy UKC
mjeffery 03/Apr/14 Lead

1 fall. fingers slipped out of a finger lock. Bit greasy.

with Steve
largejason 03/Apr/14 2nd dog

First route in a while time, no warm up, told it was HVS. Felt better in pub when informed correct grade.

pie_eater_pete 29/Mar/14 Lead
bwestwood 29/Mar/14 2nd
LJC 17/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Tom
LJC 17/Mar/14 2nd rpt

Onsight on lead and then belayed George an followed him up immediately afterwards.

with George
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 08/Mar/14 2nd dog
with Ben Ochner
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2014 Lead O/S

Sweet climbing, sweet gear - wish it was longer!

uphillnow ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
ashtond6 08/Dec/13 2nd
robgixer 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/13 2nd
Matthew Ferrier 16/Nov/13 2nd rpt
with Will
MSchobitz 16/Nov/13 2nd dog
amccann 16/Nov/13 Lead rpt
willsm11 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with matt
Teappleby 16/Nov/13 2nd dog
amccann 04/Nov/13 Lead dog

Hung around too long before the second crux, fingers gave in just as my feet got to the next rest.

spidermonkey09 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route, extremely well named- didn't feel I had it in the bag until I caught the top. Straightforward to pool wall, but the first crux is fierce and took me a very long time to work out, good value for 5c. Second crux easier once I manned up and went for it. Gear bomber all the way, including the peg.

Gambit 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Felt scary, conditions iffy?

with Tom
Dan Bates 28/Sep/13 -
greenclimb 22/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Andrew Wilson 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 20/Aug/13 Lead β
with Matt Tregellas
treg 20/Aug/13 2nd

Certainly found this easier when I seconded Ben on it a couple of years ago. Where has my crimp strength gone?

with Patrick
BRoe 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Rob L
kabutsu 12/Aug/13 2nd β
Wayne S 06/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Deacon
deacondeacon 06/Aug/13 Lead
Michael Allday 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 04/Jul/13 Lead β
with Mike
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd O/S
Mr Wild 27/May/13 2nd

Not sure how I managed to lead this a few years back, felt nails

Dibdawg 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Scott Haslam
ChrisBrooke 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Really nice. A bit easier than I was expecting. The initial slab is very straight forward with big holds. The gear on the headwall all felt a bit 7 out of 10, so got plenty in. It's slabby though, so you can hang around in comfort while you place gear and get ready for the hard move up. Top move is easier than the move to the peg.

with Dan McManus
Mark Grist 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
Jake Young 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Laura
lbarras 24/Apr/13 2nd dog

Would ve done with 2 extra cm to reach the crimp!

with jake
Petar Samkov 22/Apr/13 Lead O/S

My intro to what is british climbing all about .

Hidden 21/Apr/13 -
rd20 21/Apr/13 2nd dog

Great lead by David. Pleased not to come off the start. Couldn't make the crux move between the two ledges

with David P
dprctr 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Well named route! My favourite Grit route ever I think. Is incredibly safe (once at the gear), yet somehow doesn't feel it! Took me quite a while to figure out the first crux, which was the hardest/tenious for me. Last crux felt straightforward and not as reachy as expected.

Hidden 13/Apr/13 Lead β
James Oakes 13/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Liam Brown, Gareth Hooson
jon_gill1 02/Feb/13 Lead rpt
JWB 02/Feb/13 2nd
bclifton ??/2013 -
Mike Warner ??/2013 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Dec/12 2nd β
Sam Marks 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Probably one of my favourite routes!

Matthew Ferrier 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Quality route. The main wall is just the right side of slabby to allow sufficent rest to survey the top moves. The opening slab is a fine experience on it's own as well!

GuyVG 28/Oct/12 Lead G/U

2nd go, ground up, stood on the ledge too long first go and didnt have enough left in me for the final move, bad tactics, if you're reading this before an ascent MOVE FASTER

with chris barr
James Oakes 27/Oct/12 Lead β


AlexRenshaw 05/Oct/12 Lead
with Johnny Dawes, Tim Raffle, Mike Dawes
esther ?/Oct/12 Lead
M_W_Court 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
JRae 23/Sep/12 2nd
jelaby 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Solo up to the first gear not really my cup of tea, but the gear from then on seemed solid if a bit sparse. Weirdly thought that the first crux moves don't include the arete so made it a little harder for myself than I should. Spent an age trying and working out the second crux; rather a reach on poor feet with that small crimp. Steady to the top. Very pleased; very nice.

coffeepot 22/Sep/12 2nd dog
with jelaby
soph 16/Sep/12 2nd
with Andy Reeve
jwpil 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 12/Sep/12 2nd dog

Tough route, not great gear. fine lead by Pete.

with Peter Harris
leon 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

No chalk on route. Spent ages working out how to do the crux. Went back and seconded it after my partner decided it wasn't a route for him.

with Steven Davidson
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead dog
Palindrome ?/Jul/12 2nd

Two rests at crux on face above the pool.

David Kay 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Mark Proctor
pabbage 02/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 13/May/12 2nd rpt
robin_hackney 13/May/12 Lead O/S


with Si
Andy Peak 1 13/May/12 2nd
with Jone nuttal
John Nuttall 13/May/12 2nd
with AndyG
Bruce Houston ?/May/12 Lead
Fran S8 28/Apr/12 Lead
henry peter jenkins 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with jamie standbridge
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
JonnoP 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Chad
Chad123 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent, memorable route, surely ***, and very popular, had people on it all day. Bold start is hardest at the bottom and runners are bomber all the way from the arete. Crux is technical but all there once you find the sequence. Classic.

with JonnoP
bullwinkle 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Bart
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Neil R 14/Apr/12 Lead dnf
with Tim
efrance24234 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
WB 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Guy
Liam Dangerfield 25/Mar/12 -
with Joanna Dangerfield
cem 22/Mar/12 Lead dog

1 rest.

pmurdy 20/Mar/12 Lead β

Lead it on Ollie's gear.

Ollie B 20/Mar/12 Lead β

2nd over a year ago and had some beta mid-route.

with P.Murdy
john lynch 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

brilliant, except dropping two peanuts in the pool and then failing to find them afterwards in my boxers. (they're still there for anyone with more persistence than me):)

with adam harrison, Lewis Andrew
Lenny 15/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Steve
Nick1812P 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 10/Mar/12 2nd
drcorbasisgod ?/Mar/12 2nd rpt
GuyM ?/Mar/12 -
with will
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Mike Warner ??/2012 2nd
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
chris sm 02/Dec/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb.Tough but great to get.

Matt Cooke 19/Nov/11 2nd rpt
kiks 24/Oct/11 2nd O/S
a13x 23/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with James Stokes
andysroom 23/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Lizzie
barni 04/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Bob, Tapper
richiebongo ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
Matt Cooke 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Rosh
mark20 11/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/11 2nd
vanderz 10/Sep/11 Lead rpt
dionisys 10/Sep/11 2nd
with vanderz
stephenhartley 23/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Dave Foster 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Si 2
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd rpt
treg 07/Aug/11 2nd
with Ben
w.pettet-smith ?/Aug/11 Lead

not as tricky as i anticipated

with greg
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jul/11 TR dog
simon1965 01/Jul/11 2nd
with Tim
CRiddiford 01/Jul/11 2nd
with Jonny
JRae 01/Jul/11 Lead
masa-alpin 26/Jun/11 Lead dog

Took 3 falls at the crux. Hard! The initial face was as hard as that, too, probably because of my very short reach.

with Matt B
jacobjacob 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S

The whole route was wet after a rain shower which definitely made it more exciting :D

Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead
hotfeet 05/Jun/11 -

Aided, a great route

with Wayne
waynem1985 05/Jun/11 Lead dog

Lead On Alans gear, Dogged at crux 3 times but got it in the end. My hardest and most scarey Climb yet. But i Did it in a Fashion :) Looking forward to my next E2

Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead dnf
lost.arrow 28/May/11 -
Hidden 22/May/11 2nd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 22/May/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Amy Kilpin 21/May/11 2nd
Hidden 15/May/11 2nd
Hidden 11/May/11 Lead
SallyMay ?/May/11 2nd dog
willoates 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Jim lead it first, but i couldn't see the moves and didn't want too

with Jim Burton
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead
Cake 20/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Moved around arete with good gear, then got on the good ledges and put a bad cam in a peg scar. Moved above this to (presumably) the first crux and fell off, pulling out the cam and falling about 10m, just missing the pond. I bashed my helmeted head on the rock and had a night in hospital.

with Jon
Andrew Barker 17/Apr/11 2nd

Seems a bit over-rated.

with Jack Symmons
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Speeddemonsi 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ahab 10/Apr/11 Lead dog
Daniel Heath 07/Apr/11 Lead β

Stood around the crux for about 10minutes.Not keen on static moves on poor feet so finally made a slap for the good hold.

Skell 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Peter Rhodes 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tomprusk 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Nadeem
John Lewis 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Barra
lrandall 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Awesome! Bold but easy and then tough moves seperated by good rests with reasonable gear. Chuffed :)

with Andy B
Rachel Slater 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S

first e2

Chi Cheng 18/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Gambit 06/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Barney
Hidden 06/Mar/11 2nd dog
simondunf 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with beau
Hidden 04/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
masonwoods101 ??/2011 Lead O/S

5c? first e2 really good but soft

pbphil169 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
pie_eater_pete 15/Nov/10 2nd
with bwestwood
bwestwood 15/Nov/10 Lead dog

fell onto peg last reach

with pete sargeant
max_chan 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Phil PCC
stuart34 13/Nov/10 2nd
crispyboy 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with inchley
bigdrew 16/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with John
LisaA 16/Oct/10 Lead dog
barni 12/Oct/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead
mark20 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt
bigdrew 26/Sep/10 Lead dog

Annoying fell of the crux, Got straight back on and finished it.

with Mark R
disturbed_one51 26/Sep/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 26/Sep/10 Lead

Awesome route, found it okay although i do like small crimps!

Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt
thomasadixon 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Mike
greenclimb 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with none
thekendo 18/Sep/10 2nd
with Chung-Hsien Cheng
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
inuklm 30/Aug/10 2nd dog

A bit rushed on the slab due to another leader coming up behind me.

jonnybull 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

1st 'proper' E2 (i.e. 5c) - took a long time to commit to the crux because I didn't trust the microwires 100%.

with Kunal
Hidden 25/Aug/10 2nd
Si dH 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Pleased with this. Three hard moves, the first being a bit run out, the second being the hardest, and the third being the hardest to rest/recover before. Good climbing. Microwires needed at crux (second of three hard moves).

with Chris Foster
Graeme Hammond 24/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Rob
Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead
Ketu 24/Aug/10 2nd β
Fran S8 23/Aug/10 2nd
liamoloughlin 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
geddicakes 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Liam
Sankey 22/Aug/10 2nd
with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Stephen
drcorbasisgod 06/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Dogmusher 06/Aug/10 Lead
with chris parson
LisaA 25/Jul/10 2nd dog
AlistairB 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Lisa
Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead
Chris_barr 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Oli
toasted 04/Jul/10 Lead

seconded this 2 years ago, chuffed with the lead this time.

with Dean Bucknall, Pete Rogers
dean79 04/Jul/10 2nd dog

failed miserably on the crux! great lead by al though (and he got a round of applause)

with Pete Rogers, alan watson
Bry 29/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Andy Key
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead
davewsargent 19/Jun/10 2nd
robal 22/May/10 Lead O/S

a brilliant climb although I did have to wait for the tempreture to drop a little as it was 25 when we got out of the car!

with david lockwood
wazir.safeer 16/May/10 2nd β
with stu, Hamish
HamishD 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Saf
GarethHall 16/May/10 2nd dog

Fell off the crux before I noticed a tiny foothold to the right that would have made things easier. Damn! Will be back to lead this one day...

with Louisa Cilenti
barni 14/May/10 Lead O/S
with Paul James
Graeme Hammond 09/May/10 Lead dog

couldn't work out the a way to do the crux without pulling on the right hand hold that felt too small for me so down climbed to the ground. Then decided to have another go latter and found a way to to the crux only for my foot to slip and take a fall as I was pulling up to the peg, was hard to commit a 2nd time but eventually finished, rather annoyed to say the least about the whole thing :@ set the tone for a shit day topped off with a flat tyre (cheers to Luke for doing most of the work!)and no money to go to the pub!

with Rayan, Jools
Byronius Maximus 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd
LoopyLou ?/May/10 Lead O/S

Thankfully I was so engrossed in the climb I never stopped to worry about how deep the pool is. All the holds are there, but the gear is insecure save for a bomber wire protecting the crux and the reward of hitting the sweet spit is a thank god peg. Glad I didn't read the route description in the guidebook or I would have hesitated about climbing it, even with Thea's reassurances that I'd be ok on it - where was the reachy finish? No comlaints! All fantastic, a proper route, with glee factor.

with Thea Williams
Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd
tom.e 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Ace ace ace

with Rozzy, Tom Powell
vanderz 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
J.Wells 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S

First E2, easy climbing except for the hard crux, spent ages building up to it!

with Chris Lockyer
Hidden 21/Mar/10 2nd
dj_brigham05 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Luckas Smejkal
Dave Warburton 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Meant to do this for a while and never got around to it. I found several parts of it quite tricky but climbed it resonably quickly. Hopefully this is the end of my recent form of lobbing off everything.

jon_gill1 13/Mar/10 2nd dog

did the climb clean till the last move but unfortunately the guy belaying me was a bit tight on the belay so got pulled off and then did it fine afterwards.although thankyou very much Mike for letting me second your climb!grea route!

mark20 10/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
nadeem 05/Mar/10 Lead rpt

Second time lucky innit

nepsoi999 05/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Really nice bouldery move :D

with nadeem
Hidden ?/Mar/10 2nd dog
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
Sam1991 15/Nov/09 Lead dnf

Gutted!! got to just below the peg (a metre or so), and was working out the move when the heavens opened. Whole thing was soaked within a couple of minutes, and had to lower off, very very frustrating, I think it would have gone clean..eventually! Quality climnbing to that point though :)

with Andy J and Andy T
climberjames ?/Nov/09 2nd O/S

Great climb, crux = crimpy finish

Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Quality. Had to stop and think the crux through before commiting.

philhilo 17/Oct/09 2nd
Chris M 12/Oct/09 Lead
with Dan G
mic_b 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 03/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd rpt
highrepute 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 18/Sep/09 Lead rpt

Cruised it this time. The moves aren't hard, it's the doing it first time that's a pig! (Andy took a goodun' on his lead and ground up'd it second go)

with Andy
Dave Foster 06/Sep/09 Lead

2 rests, one for each crux. Chronic dither at crux no.1 initiated terminal calf pump. Took ages getting gear I was happy with and working out the best sequence, by which time I was having a right wobbler. Can't wait to go back and do it clean now I know what I know! Fantastic climb.

with Andy
lithos 29/Aug/09 2nd

bold as brass at start- move to arete is hard. nice lead by rich.

Cragrat Rich 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Long awaited and dream't about ascent which turned out to be much less sustained than expected through the crux(es). Standard climbing wall 5c stuff really but very good positions & moves

Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
nadeem 11/Aug/09 Lead dog

Fell off the last move onto the peg. bomber held me no problem. Big fall number 2 of the trip. Great route, look forward to cleaning it next time i try it.

with Aaron Crawley
Different Steve 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd
AlistairB 22/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 08/Jun/09 2nd O/S
mbutton ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Bob 26/May/09 2nd O/S
with M. Bullough
Rich Kirby 23/May/09 Lead rpt
with Kev
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/May/09 2nd O/S
datoon 10/May/09 2nd O/S
with K
khawk 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with DT
chris sm 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
eddy-on-the-rocks 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
Owen W-G 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great finish to a brilliant day. Needed a lie down at the top.

with Tony Seale
Becky E 03/Apr/09 2nd dog

Scarey spiders! And that was just when belaying.

Hidden 24/Mar/09 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 23/Mar/09 Lead O/S


with Becca
BeccaSnowden 23/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Tom
Ed Babs 22/Mar/09 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
JWB 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Mike278
mike278 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with JWB
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Nicos 24/Feb/09 Lead O/S

my climbing head wasnt working very well today and it was damp and i have a finger injury (the excuses),, so it took me ages and i placed 14! bits of gear including backing the peg up with 3 other bits . awesome route!

Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Mr Wild 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Terified, took ages to do the crux thankgod for that peg

with Greg
Oli 17/Feb/09 Lead O/S

A bit damp and greasy. Downclimbed from the arete and got Dave to ab down it and dry some of the wet bits.

with Dave
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead dog
roberto18 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S

brillant climb i though the top move was the crux and my dad agreed. gear is good if u put enough ok wires in.

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Tim M 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Emma
Lev 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd dog
climbergg 18/Oct/08 2nd
Dan 85 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Took about an hour!

with Allan
mel holmes 26/Sep/08 Lead
with Tony Reed
OffshoreAndy 24/Sep/08 2nd
with Works Frasier
PenJD 21/Sep/08 Lead dog

Rested at peg but then did final moves fine - frustrating as should have got it clean!!! Was slightly greasy - warm day. Excuses excuses...

Somerset swede basher 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Laurence Davis
r@bag 29/Aug/08 2nd dog

Greasy in humid weather.

Hidden 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S
russonly 13/Jul/08 2nd dog
with Paul
russonly 13/Jul/08 2nd dog
with Paul
russonly 13/Jul/08 2nd dog
with Paul
felixthelion 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Climbed it in the rain, lost my head a bit after the first crux and nearly came off the second...just held it. brilliant climb, brilliant moves, beautiful position

with Luke
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead RP
Misha 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S
MD 22/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Misha
MeMeMe 08/Jun/08 Lead dog

I grabbed the peg after messing up my hand sequence, so didn't rest on the rope but not the cleanest ascent! Bit annoyed really, but oh well.

with Andy
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead rpt
Anthony Allsopp 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Darby
sadams 24/May/08 -
with Catherine Adams
joe larner 18/May/08 Lead O/S

Fairly hard moves, hard 5c, with holds covered in dirt. Really nice route though.

mattyork2 07/May/08 2nd
with Steve Aherne
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead
dts 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
chrishedgehog 13/Mar/08 Lead β
with Chris Brockbank
chrishedgehog 13/Mar/08 Lead β
with Chris Brockbank
Ed Booth 06/Mar/08 Lead O/S


with Alex Mason
Hidden 06/Mar/08 Lead β
Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S
nathanmanc 26/Feb/08 Lead O/S
david morse 26/Feb/08 2nd
with Juan
Franco Cookson OLD 10/Feb/08 2nd

don't fancy a lead of this one, awfully greesy. Took the odd fall.

IanJackson 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
lukehunt 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Brookes
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Coel Hellier 04/Nov/07 Lead
Dale ?/Nov/07 Lead dog

at the the time this route was a little hard for me. cudn't do the 1 move had a few of attemps fell off. ended up adding it using a micro wire bad style man. will b back for a clean assent

with johny
Mick r 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Excellent route - glad to reach the bolt

dannyboy83 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Floris
Nick Taylor 06/Oct/07 Lead RP
Mr Powly ?/Oct/07 2nd
with Sam Bennet
Hidden 20/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Sep/07 Lead O/S
BenJacobs 20/Sep/07 2nd dog
with PeakDJ
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Pythonist 07/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Man, did that feel hard. Nice intro (worth HVS 5b by itself) then good, but dubious-feeling, gear and a fierce hard 5c move to peg and easier 5c move. Took 30 min to get off the large ledge...

with DaveDJ
Hidden 06/Sep/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd
ksjs 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S

totally different in character to Billy Whizz but utterly excellent - a route of 2 halves, the first of which is the straightforward but unprotected slabby wall and the second is the well-protected crack with a more technical bent, very worthwhile

Hidden 10/Jun/07 2nd dog
climbingrick 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 25/Apr/07 Lead rpt

2nd'd Dan 14/09/02

with Dan
dan gibson 25/Apr/07 2nd rpt
with AJ
Stig 01/Apr/07 Lead dog

Decent fall just after the crux

with Tim
Hidden 01/Apr/07 Lead
Ian Parnell ?/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Ali Mynett
feilx 20/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Moles
climbingpixie 14/Jan/07 2nd
with Mark Stevenson
Hidden 14/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
UndercoverElephant ??/2007 Lead O/S
Peakpdr ??/2007 2nd
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
drysori 06/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/06 2nd
Jus ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
alaan 24/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Mostly wobbly gear with good bits inbetween- safe, (although you may get wet coming off before the gear below crux).

with Pete
Joe Costello 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Absolutely Brilliant

with Liam
Nick Taylor 10/Sep/06 Lead dog

Ok, so I fell off the top move but I've promised myself I'll go back and lead it cleanly. Really wanted the onsight though..

ChalkBall 03/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 03/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Found this quite committing, the gear worried me a bit, though it was probably fine.

Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/06 2nd dog
Alex Mason 21/Jun/06 Lead O/S

what a great route, 5b slab to start, up to jugs to the arete good rock, precarious move round arte to the ledge, small but good gear, hard 5c move, clip peg, soft 5c to finish. sustained interest gear were its needed for E2. 3*

Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead
dan gibson 30/Mar/06 Lead rpt
with martina
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
shark 19/Nov/05 Lead dog
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 11/Nov/05 Lead O/S
shark 05/Nov/05 2nd rpt
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Mutl3y ?/Aug/05 2nd dog
with Fletch
Stig 28/Jun/05 Lead dnf
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Rob Davies ?/May/05 Lead dnf
Chris M ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Jon Greengrass ?/Oct/04 2nd O/S
with Fiend
Phil West 24/Jul/04 2nd dog
with Roman
robin heath 12/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Carl Riley
Apharri 28/Feb/04 Solo

First E2

with Dave Wharton
Rik Dawes ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 11/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with steve c
Ben1983 ?/Apr/03 Lead dog
reg_measures 21/Mar/03 2nd O/S
with hugh thomas
dan gibson 14/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with AJ
Hidden 25/May/02 Lead
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead
Hidden 10/Feb/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
nickdonohue ??/2002 2nd
with Joe Brown
Dave Bond 16/Nov/01 Lead O/S
with charles
tommytwotone 01/Sep/01 2nd O/S
with Caedmon Mullin
Hidden 18/Feb/01 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jan/01 Lead O/S
with Joe le Sage, Viv
rob.grafton ??/2001 -
DubyaJamesDubya 08/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker, Martin Flint
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Mel
nickcanute ??/2000 -
with led or solo -various dates
Brown ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/99 2nd
AB1965 04/Apr/99 Lead
BlueJohn ??/1999 2nd
with JohnnyM
Rich Kirby 27/Jun/98 Lead rpt
Rich Kirby 22/Feb/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead β
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1998 -
Hidden 03/Aug/97 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
r0b 26/Oct/96 2nd
with Andy Edwards
John Southworth 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Matt Booth
Colin Edwards 28/Aug/96 2nd
with Steve Cox
Hidden 27/May/96 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/96 Lead
NeilGriffiths ??/1996 -
with Duncan
Daniel Wrightson ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
Hidden 27/Aug/95 Lead O/S
D Tempest 07/May/95 Lead
with Rick
mikedelderfield 23/Mar/95 2nd O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
ian caton ??/1995 Lead O/S
with bland
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 18/Jul/94 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
IanD353 ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
adam carless ??/1993 2nd O/S
with Someone from YUMC
OMSKB ??/1993 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
adi bryant 09/Nov/92 Lead O/S
with Ollie
Hidden 27/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/92 -
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/92 2nd
with Bill G
Hidden 28/Jun/92 Lead
ste_d 14/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with sven
Tony Little 23/May/92 Lead O/S
with Martin
IanGilbertJones 03/May/92 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/92 2nd
Hidden 11/Jan/92 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 TR
Chris Reid ?/Nov/91 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 06/Sep/91 2nd
with Rick Kerr
Hidden 22/Jun/91 Lead
Roget 19/Jan/91 Lead O/S
with jim
mark-abz 22/Apr/90 Lead
with Ian D
Dave Douglas 08/Apr/90 2nd O/S
surfbish 03/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/90 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 -
gordonday ??/1990 2nd
with clive
Hidden 18/Oct/89 Lead
Stoney Boy 17/Sep/89 2nd O/S
with Colin Hughes
Gambit 21/Jun/89 Lead RP
with Barney
Tom V 31/Mar/89 Lead
with Howie Darwin
Hidden 19/Feb/89 2nd dog
timbanton ?/Feb/89 -
Hidden 07/Jan/89 Lead
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 -
TonyF 02/Oct/88 Lead
with Tony Cox
phardman 21/May/88 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
Hidden 20/Feb/88 Lead O/S
J R R Hartley ?/Sep/87 2nd dog
with Dez Barnett
Backinthegame ?/Sep/87 2nd

Seconded to Huggy

with Stephen hughes
Rob Davies ?/Sep/87 2nd dog

I had to follow this in the rain

Dave Musgrove 25/Jun/87 -
with Kim Greenald
sadams 26/Apr/87 2nd
with Guy Townsend
Guy ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1987 Lead O/S
GuySummers ??/1987 Lead
NickJH ??/1987 Lead O/S
with JaneStannard
Neil R 26/Oct/86 Lead
with Richard W
Steve Crowe 07/Sep/86 Lead O/S
sadams ?/Sep/86 Lead
with Mark Bonham
Hidden 16/Aug/86 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/86 Lead
bullybones ??/1986 -
John Marsland 17/Nov/85 Lead β

briefly put finger thru. peg

with Guy Beaumont
neilh 20/Oct/85 2nd
with simon webster
Dave Musgrove 26/Jun/85 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 12/May/85 Lead
GordonHart ?/Jan/85 Lead O/S
with Kevin
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
shark ?/Dec/84 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 10/Apr/84 2nd
with Rab Young
nigehughes ?/Mar/83 Lead
with Alec Pirrie
Mark Kemball 23/Feb/83 Lead

Direct variation

with Paul Clark
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
steve L 12/Jun/82 2nd
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Mark Kemball 11/Aug/79 2nd
KRB 15/Jul/79 Lead O/S

Better protected than my nerves were expecting.

with Mike Bridges
rogerskews ??/1975 -
with Dane Atkins
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 152
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 151
Votes cast 143
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set