Derbyshire > Curbar Edge >
 
Elder Crack*** E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Elder Statesman
 
Knockin' on Heaven's Door >>
[Mid-crux on Elder Crack, 2 kb]18m. The soaring narrowing fissure is one of gritstone’s great ticks. Easy climbing leads to the sentry-box. Runners can be placed deep in the crack (tough when wearing a helmet) however, a large cam is the simpler modern method. Shin up the outside of the crack to a spike on the left arete then get established in the upper crack with difficulty. The wide upper section is easier, just keep laybacking. Brilliant! © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1950. Given VS - must have been more holds on it then.

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Hard Rock, Wide Cracks, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Big Rons 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Cracks And Corners To Greatness.

Photo: Mid-crux on Elder Crack © match
View all 13 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 255 logbooks, and on 100 wishlists.

Tough work on several levels
Derek Furze - 2nd - 09/Apr/14 with Dave

Got to be the best E2 I've ever done! A Joe Brown masterpiece
gazfellows - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Billy

Great route! Been on my wish-list for years and I'm so glad I finally found the balls to go for it. Found the crux tougher than expected - definitely felt like 5c but it was early morning before the sun moved onto the crack and therefore it was green and slimy on the crux (not ideal for thutching!). My chicken wing just slipped out as I was reaching for the jug, so lowered down and got it 2nd attempt. Wish I'd had another size 5 cam for the upper crack - felt quite bold without it, although I did somehow manage to 'offwidth' the whole thing rather than laybacking it like most people, so perhaps I just made it unnecesarily hard for myself. Gaz made it look much easier on the 2nd.
madasten - Lead - 29/Mar/14 with Gaz

phildawson - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Tim Newton

tim newton - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with phil dawson

slacky - 2nd - 01/Mar/14 with Scott Richardson

Frank the Husky - 2014

muppett - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

bwestwood - Lead - 25/Nov/13

Si dH - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/13 with Tom Lambert

Love this climb
Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 05/Oct/13

rested at crux.squirmed up crack and tough pull through at bulge. top section ok
mark4344 - Lead - 29/Sep/13 with Matt Payne

Felt easier than my first time, though to be fair it was seconding this time. My technique has been improved a little to my joy!
masa-alpin - 2nd rpt - 29/Sep/13 with Rob G

robgixer - Lead - 29/Sep/13

Simon Davis - Lead - 27/Aug/13 with Tim P

sazmaz - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

Dan Mckinlay - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Classic.
James Oakes - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Tim Slater

tsl42 - 2nd O/S - 27/May/13 with James Oakes

Climbing wasn't as awful as I expected!. Proper scary thinking that we'd got Tony's cam stuck! Rachel made it look easy once she got down to business
Olli-C - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/13 with Rachel Slater

Had a rest getting into the offwidth then did it clean from a low ledge. Actually used no offwidth moves at all in the end, and felt quite safe with a size 6 cam! There were several minutes of panic while we thought we might have got it stuck but Olli got it out in the end :)
Rachel Slater - Lead RP - 30/Apr/13 with Olli Crudge

Hidden - Apr/13

Gambit - Lead β - 02/Mar/13 with Barney

bencoope - 02/Feb/13

captain - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/12

LJC - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Nathan, ben.richards

Ouch, skinned ankles!
ben.richards - 2nd dog - 27/Oct/12 with Nathan Buckley, Luca Celano

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

soph - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Andy Reeve

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/12

V.tough route. failed on crux rock over and took a decent fall onto a money well spent size 6 cam! big cams also needed for top layback.
mark4344 - Lead dnf - 16/Sep/12 with Matt Payne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 13/Sep/12 with Andrew Deckon

More of an offwidth thrutch than I was expecting! Well awkward getting into the upper section, had an undignified moment of both feet dangling while I squirmed up on knee-jams and arm bars.
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 07/Sep/12

Amazing! Only a few 'off-width' moves if you play this one correct.
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Adam Jordan, Thomas Geh

with 2 big cams probably only hvs!
tgeh - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with adam jordan, dan geh

AMJ098 - 28/Jul/12 with Dan Geh

kenneM - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with ianjfsutcliffe

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Kenny

Bit of a bugger. Good lead Si.
Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

Good route - 3 star! Enjoyed it. With big SLCDs, it didn't feel too bad - the grade of E2 is based on an ascent without?
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Lee P

alexjz - 2nd dog - 16/Apr/12 with Matt Burdekin

Really good. Lots of good moves even after the crux. Christened the HPC size 6 camalot, reckon its maybe E1 with one. A 4 would have went in too higher up.
JRae - Lead - 21/Mar/12 with Arthur

Rested once, really annoyed I didn't just crack on. awesome route, definitely doing it again clean soon.
Nick1812P - Lead dog - 21/Mar/12 with Caroline

really enjoyable and fun to work what to do, off widths are good!
CRiddiford - 2nd - 21/Mar/12 with Nick

One of the best Grit routes I have done. Amazing
david morse - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with tlmarjot, Ben Lea

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2012 with Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - 2012

sgl0jd - 2012

clmbr - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/11 with mr g walters

w.pettet-smith - Nov/11 with ben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Oct/11

Easier than I was expecting, and certainly very safe if you've got big cams. More like E1 then. Great little route.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11 with David Rose, Ed Booth

Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 28/Oct/11 with Adam Booth

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Emlyn

Great route, and not too hard for E2 i thought. Maybe it should go back to VS!
Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with Mark Williams

Great Fun. Getting to the good hold before the rockover was the crux. I will ignore that i slipped and mangled my arm jamming after that point. Brilliant
disturbed_one51 - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with Wee man

Danny Crump - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Luke Green

don't wear a helmet - as much as I hate saying this.
Luke_G - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Danny Crump

Hidden - TR - 28/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/11 with loundsy

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Claire

llamaglama - 2nd - 09/Jul/11 with Jam

al99 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Andy Woolston

a lot nicer on the second, and im sure benji felt better with a size 6 cam. top route, JB = hero
centurion05 - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11

Goose4 - Lead β - 31/May/11 with Euan McKendrick

Had to take my helmet off to place the gear deep in the crack before the crux, I obviously have long arms or I'm good at squeezing in cracks as James could reach the gear, so had to abseil for it. Glade of a borrowed size 5 cam on the crux, a 6 would have been a better fit. Didn't have any other large for the upper crack but not too hard and beautiful laybacks :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/May/11 with james pcc

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11

Very pleased to get this one on-sight. Been on the wish-list for a while. A brutal, thrutching squirm, but very satisfying. Didn't think the top section was a push-over at all (it's tough!), and did it using a combination of knee jam, a tiny bit of lay-backing and more thrutching!
DavidR - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Kevin Bowser

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with max

After an incredible day felt full-body tired, pleased to end it with this! Had 3 big cams (jussst about big enough for some of the narrowings in the crack) Offwidth-layback brilliance, good effort Mr. Brown!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/11 with Steve Ramsden

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/11

J.Wells - Lead β - 16/Feb/11 with Bob Hickish

walts4 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

thebigfriendlymoose - 2011 with Stephen

with Gareth 1 or 2 falls
alasdair19 - 2011

Daniel Heath - 2nd β - 20/Nov/10

HamishD - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Beth UNUMC

Nice hard route - so much so that it required shirt off climbing at the end of October! Cheers for the loan of the big cam Dave. Made the crux feel less scary.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Dave Foster

If this route was an 'uman, it'd be the kind your momma told you to stay away from. Good lead Robin!
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Robin

Found crux surprisingly easy, and then got a bit flummoxed on the top bit, as I had no wide gear left!
PeteH - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Noel Peatfield

pie_eater_pete - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Dave Sargent

davewsargent - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with peter sargent

geddicakes - 2nd - 28/Aug/10 with Paul Phillips

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Ben Burns

1 rest
Sankey - 2nd - 26/Jun/10 with Luke

ben_250 - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10 with Tom Czech, Andrew

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10

Hard, even as second.
Al Urker - 2nd β - May/10

ed edwards - AltLd O/S - May/10 with martin brierly

DuncanR - Lead - 14/Apr/10 with Nick Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/10 with Jeff Hollenbaugh

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/09

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 29/Oct/09 with Debbie, loundsy

It wasn't the horrific struggle I had been expecting, in fact it was even enjoyable. Used two cams #4 for the upper crack but didn't have anything larger so had to really squirm to place a couple of smaller cams deep in the lower crack.
Misha - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/09

ed woods - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Adam

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09

Brown - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with John

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jul/09

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09

jchenoweth - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Jez

Kyuzo - May/09

Jez - Lead O/S - May/09 with NJSharp

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/09

Been saving this for ages. Perfect day for it, but knackered myself out getting to the jug and fell off the crux. Not too disappointed as really this feels like the hardest route I've tried yet. So now I've got a project.
Tom Last - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/09 with Cordelia Molloy

Chi Cheng - 2nd dog - Mar/09 with Steve Barratt

Hidden - Lead β - 2009

Hidden - 2009

I just did the oaky-cokey, "right leg in, right leg out.. left arm in, out, in , out, shake it all about..etc etc and that's what it's all about" - Classic stuff. Really pleased to onsight this one! Buzzzin
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/08

Shauna - 2nd dog - 18/Oct/08 with Steve

hailtryfan - 2nd dog - Oct/08 with Michael Porter

Hard work. Made it look difficult....but it is.
felixthelion - Lead β - 27/Sep/08 with Luke Alvarez

lukea - 2nd - 27/Sep/08 with felix

tommytuffa - 2nd - 10/Sep/08 with luketheape

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/08

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08

HughM - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Toby Knight

didnt have a big enough cam, got a sling over the spike to protect the cruk, which revealed its self beautifully once i commited to it. Superb!!
tonanf - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/08 with burt

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08

tlr - Lead - 01/Jul/08 with Henry

Wish I'd had a cam bigger than size 4!
Skell - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Kelvin

v.jester - Lead β - 07/May/08 with guy

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Really good climbing it helped having a no6 cam. Not really many offwidth moves though. great fun.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/07 with Bruce

Nice bit of crack there, doesn't finish after the corner though. The No6 cam is the way forward, and you only need one since it can be recycled all the way up.
UndercoverElephant - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07

Andrew Sloan - TR dog - 01/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/07

lukea - 2nd O/S - Aug/07 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - Lead - 28/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/07

Apharri - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with Andre Hedger

shark - Lead - 14/Jan/07 with Keith Sharples

Rob Kennard - 2007

K1 - 2007

mike kann - 2007 with Iain Shone

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 2007 with Malcolm Scott

tumbling wizard - 2007

Nicos - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/06 with alex at home

My first proper offwidth- surprisingly technical and, more suprisingly, really enjoyable!
alaan - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/06 with Ally

Utterly, utterly exhausting! First E2 of the year :) Did layback the top section this time, but still found it very hard & slightly scary.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/06 with Adam Carless

A full on offwidth battle - massive respect for Nick's lead.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/06 with Nick Smith - UKC

feilx - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with Felix Coxwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/06

pretty good feeling topping out, but not while climibing
jonnyboy - Lead RP - 23/Sep/06 with Daniel Armitage

Got passed the move - just. With my left hand in a great jam, my hands were too sweaty to hold the next hold. Luckily I had borrowed a size 5 freind and, despite being turned up-side-down, survived the day with lots of scrapes and bruises. Recommend only trying this in colder weather, boots which cover your ankles and thick clothing.
russonly - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/06 with AndyN

reg_measures - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/06 with Jorge

fairly straight forward. offwidthed the top section all the way too though - felt more natural than the layback suggested in't guide.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 27/May/06 with Reeve and Alex

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/06

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06 with Ralph

mike kann - Lead dog - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/05

Hidden - 2005

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2005

shark - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/04 with Gav Pike

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/04

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 2004 with Phil Leng

haydng - Lead O/S - 2004 with Rob

Hidden - Lead - Sep/03

Iggy_B - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with John Arran

mel holmes - 2nd - 26/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/03

both led
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/03 with KM

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/03 with hugh thomas

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/02

1pt rest just before the good hold! First attempt at an E2? Also had a bit of an epic time on the top wide crack, which is supposed to be 'easy' but I insisted in off-width'ing it and kept getting my knee well and truely stuck!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead dog - Jul/01 with Thea Williams

tuftynick - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/00

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/00 with Chris Read

Hidden - 2000

ChrisJD - Lead - 04/Jul/98 with AlB

Mike Owen - 17/May/98 with Elaine Owen

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Jun/96 with Dave Taylor

rockaddiction - Lead - 01/May/95

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/94

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Aug/94

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 03/Oct/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/91

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/91 with chris jones

craig h - 2nd O/S - Dec/90 with Luke Steer

Hidden - Lead - 22/Oct/90

Dave Musgrove - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/90 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 09/Sep/90 with Dad

Hidden - 1990

philhilo - 1990

philhilo - 1990

gordonday - TR O/S - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Bern - 1990

phardman - Lead O/S - 06/May/89 with John Lloyd

Tom V - 2nd - 04/Sep/87 with Howie Darwin

John Marsland - 2nd - 20/Jun/87 with Eduardo Martinez

shark - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/86 with Howard

MikeYouCanClimb - 12/Aug/86 with Dave Dowson

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/86 with Dave Dowson

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/86 with Pete Stokes

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jul/86

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Not as bad as it first appeared.
stp - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/83

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/82

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/82

Hammy - 2nd - 28/Mar/82 with Fai Kwong

Mark Kemball - Lead - 30/May/81

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1981 with Little Pete from Aber Uni.

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Andy Fielding - TR - 09/Sep/80 with Steve Hartland

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/80

GeoffG - Lead - Jul/80

Got some half-seated runner behind a chockstone and scuffed my way up. Excellent hold up on the left wall. Not one to do in shorts.
KRB - Lead β - 27/Jun/80 with Mike Bridges

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 22/Jun/80 with Kim Greenald

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Went back to lead it but bottled it a couple of times before doing in 1988
David Smith - 2nd - Aug/79 with Al Bennett

Nigel Bond - TR - 21/Apr/79 with Andy Brown

Desperate!
Ken Taylor - TR - 21/Sep/78 with Phil Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jan/78

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jan/78

mikej - TR - 21/May/77 with Mike Byles

Faced the wrong way!
mikej - TR dnf - 19/May/77 with Mike Byles

Excellent handjam if you look for it!
Sean Kelly - 2nd - Sep/76 with Bob Millward

Hidden - 1976

andy gittins - 1972

Tony Holdsworth - 01/Jan/70

Tony Holdsworth - 01/Jan/70

mikej - Lead dnf - 15/May/66 with Mike Byles

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, WhipperSnapper, Hidden, Broom136, rurp, Nick1812P, gavinpeach, adie84, Munir Hassan, Hidden, fifth, Hidden, Hidden, cpt_crunch, Hidden, Hidden, sparkass, Hidden, Hidden, mapperley samurai, Hidden, Hidden, peachos, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, ChrisBrooke, David Carpenter, truckmonkey, Ewano, Hidden, pabbage, nigel pearson, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Aufton, tlmarjot, climbinmunkey, Dave 88, jonnybull, Hidden, tgeh, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Hidden, jeffsheard, Michael Hood, philboy, Chris Ellyatt, gazfellows, madasten, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, richiebongo, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, RFWilkie, mloskot, franksnb, glennofsheff, Hidden, jtree03, Hidden, ellie macpherson, Jonathan Hall, Dan Lane, Hidden, Lou Kennedy, prinny, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, vanderz, JWB, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, mikekeswick, Tommy G, climbingrick, tatz45, Hidden, Hidden, the real weeman, Different Steve, Alex Mason, Hidden, russonly, Hidden, Hidden, Pythonist

Voting
Total votes cast 169
hard E30 of 57
E30 of 57
easy E31 of 57
hard E218 of 57
E235 of 57
easy E22 of 57
hard E11 of 57
E10 of 57
easy E10 of 57
hard 5c0 of 57
5c1 of 57
easy 5c1 of 57
hard 5b9 of 57
5b46 of 57
easy 5b0 of 57
hard 5a0 of 57
5a0 of 57
easy 5a0 of 57
3 Stars53 of 55
2 Stars2 of 55
1 Star0 of 55
0 Stars0 of 55
Bag of .....0 of 55
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 255 (0.4%)
Lead132 of 255 (51.8%)
Followed67 of 255 (26.3%)
Toproped9 of 255 (3.5%)
Alt Leads1 of 255 (0.4%)
Unknown45 of 255 (17.6%)

'Climbed'109 of 255 (42.7%)
clean O/S106 of 255 (41.6%)
clean β9 of 255 (3.5%)
clean rpt13 of 255 (5.1%)
clean RP2 of 255 (0.8%)
dogged11 of 255 (4.3%)
dnf5 of 255 (2.0%)