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Ring Ouzels are reported to be nesting on Flying Buttress. Please avoid this and adjacent routes.

from 14/06/2023 to 01/07/2023

Adders are frequently seen around Curbar. They are often very well camoflaged so it's worth keeping an eye out when moving into new areas, picking up kit etc as a bite, although not life threatening to most healthy adults can still be nasty.

Ticks are abundant due to a large population of red deer. take care, particularly if passing through bracken below the crag.

18m.

Rockfax Description
The imposing fissure is one of gritstone's great crack ticks. A blocky crack leads to a sentry-box. Runners can be placed deep in the crack (tricky in a helmet) but a large cam is easier. Shin up the outside of the crack to a jug on the arete then get established in the upper crack. The wide upper section eases. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950. Given VS - must have been more holds on it then..

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Hard Rock , Wide Cracks , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , 50 of the Best , Thrutch and Clutch , WideBoyz Crack School , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Winter Grit ticklist , UK road to wide crack mastery , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , On Peak Rock , Froggat and Curbar Big Cracks , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Hard Rock 2020 , Crackageddon , Proper Cracks UK , Joe Brown Curbar Routes , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Sheff , Yo , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Curbar Your Enthusiasm , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The Eal List , Crack Fueled Rampage , East and West Top 25 , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
Arthur Bramwell 4 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First E2, I was very happy with it. bit of a tussle but far more relaxed than that of the Pea pod
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First E2, I was very happy with it. bit of a tussle but far more relaxed than that of the Pea pod
Paul Bounds 17 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The idea that you can place gear deep in the crack is very optimistic.
Show beta
βeta: The idea that you can place gear deep in the crack is very optimistic.
Nick Smith - Climbers 11 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Completely desperate! Never been so knackered by a route in my life - my whole body was shaking and I wanted to throw up by the time I dragged myself to the top. I didn't find the 'easy' laybacking on the upper half easy at all. Classic :)
Show beta
βeta: Completely desperate! Never been so knackered by a route in my life - my whole body was shaking and I wanted to throw up by the time I dragged myself to the top. I didn't find the 'easy' laybacking on the upper half easy at all. Classic :)
nate 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great, glad to get onsite good inverted foot jam practice
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great, glad to get onsite good inverted foot jam practice

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 102
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 102
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Alcasan

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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