The imposing narrowing fissure is one of gritstone's great crack ticks. A brambly, blocky crack leads to the sentry-box. Runners can be placed deep in the crack (although not when wearing a helmet) but a large cam is a simpler modern method. Shin up the outside of the crack to a jug on the left arete then get established in the upper crack with difficulty. The wide upper crack is a little easier - just keep laybacking. Brilliant! © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1950. Given VS - must have been more holds on it then.
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Hard Rock, Wide Cracks, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, 50 of the Best, Thrutch and Clutch, WideBoyz Crack School.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Nick Russell||04/Oct||Lead O/S||
I was surprised to find myself at the top thinking, "that wasn't as bad as it looks." My biggest cam - a #4 camalot - was never going to be any use for the bulge, but it protected the slab. A wire right at the back of the crack (helmet off to place it, of course!) was enough to go for it through the wide section.
|Andy Peak 1||03/Oct||Lead rpt||
Lost my bottle had to do it with a big cam!
|dominic lee||03/Oct||Lead rpt||
|Bernie L||13/Sep||Lead β||
Tom Bennell, Alex McCann, Harry Lewis
Dragging my only large cam all the way.
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||21/Jul||Lead O/S||
|dan ely||27/Jun||Lead O/S|
Great climbing! A route I've wanted to do for ages! Took a while to commit but once I did it all came together smoothly. A combination of knee bars and arm bars all the way up. It would feel very bold without a couple of big cams. Classic route and one I'd come back to again!
|Martin Bagshaw||21/Jun||Lead O/S||
A surprisingly enjoyable route - off-widths don't really do it for me so only got on this as Ben had come off at crux. Actually the crux move is lovely and then the top half is interesting. Crux hard for 5b?
|the power||12/Feb||Lead dnf||
Got me ass kicked hahaha mong
|Andy Peak 1||12/Feb||Lead rpt||
Cudent find a good flask placment anywer
|ian d f||06/Dec/14||Lead O/S||
felt fine with big cams!
|Laurence Everitt||02/Nov/14||Lead O/S||
|Mark Grist||12/Oct/14||Lead β||
Bit more of a fight than I remember. Good lead Mark. That friend 6 came in handy
Thanks a lot to the guys who lent us a mega cam for the, and the eliminates :) Great route. Easier than the E1's round here.
Sam Ring, Tony Stone
No6 cam and big bro meant overhead gear through overhang! Then 30ft layback with nothing. Great fun
Top roped due to damp conditions, glad as crux took some working out.
great grovelling. A camalot 4 just about fits
It was time to walk the walk. In the event, easier than The Peapod. Just a bit lacking in gear, and the section to the big hold for the left hand in the offwidth proper to some thinking about. This will the the last day outside before the birth of my second son, see you on the other side
Just couldn't figure it out, didn't really fully commit as I wasn't sure about the pro I had in the back of the crack (didn't have any big cams).
Made it clean at last. Tough pull through at crux
Mark Lead first and stripped the route for me to have a lead. So had the beta on the gear so only took up the required six (BIG) cams.
Tough work on several levels
Got to be the best E2 I've ever done! A Joe Brown masterpiece
Great route! Been on my wish-list for years and I'm so glad I finally found the balls to go for it. Found the crux tougher than expected - definitely felt like 5c but it was early morning before the sun moved onto the crack and therefore it was green and slimy on the crux (not ideal for thutching!). My chicken wing just slipped out as I was reaching for the jug, so lowered down and got it 2nd attempt. Wish I'd had another size 5 cam for the upper crack - felt quite bold without it, although I did somehow manage to 'offwidth' the whole thing rather than laybacking it like most people, so perhaps I just made it unnecesarily hard for myself. Gaz made it look much easier on the 2nd.
|tim newton||09/Mar/14||Lead O/S|
|Frank the Husky||??/2014||-|
|Si dH||20/Oct/13||Lead O/S||
|Andy Peak 1||05/Oct/13||2nd||
Love this climb
rested at crux.squirmed up crack and tough pull through at bulge. top section ok
Felt easier than my first time, though to be fair it was seconding this time. My technique has been improved a little to my joy!
|Dan Mckinlay||?/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
|James Oakes||27/May/13||Lead O/S||
Climbing wasn't as awful as I expected!. Proper scary thinking that we'd got Tony's cam stuck! Rachel made it look easy once she got down to business
|Rachel Slater||30/Apr/13||Lead RP||
Had a rest getting into the offwidth then did it clean from a low ledge. Actually used no offwidth moves at all in the end, and felt quite safe with a size 6 cam! There were several minutes of panic while we thought we might have got it stuck but Olli got it out in the end :)
Ouch, skinned ankles!
V.tough route. failed on crux rock over and took a decent fall onto a money well spent size 6 cam! big cams also needed for top layback.
|Andy Peak 1||13/Sep/12||Lead||
|Dr Toph||07/Sep/12||Solo O/S||
More of an offwidth thrutch than I was expecting! Well awkward getting into the upper section, had an undignified moment of both feet dangling while I squirmed up on knee-jams and arm bars.
|Dan Geh||28/Jul/12||Lead O/S||
Amazing! Only a few 'off-width' moves if you play this one correct.
with 2 big cams probably only hvs!
adam jordan, dan geh
|Dave Foster||15/Jul/12||2nd rpt||
Bit of a bugger. Good lead Si.
Good route - 3 star! Enjoyed it. With big SLCDs, it didn't feel too bad - the grade of E2 is based on an ascent without?
Really good. Lots of good moves even after the crux. Christened the HPC size 6 camalot, reckon its maybe E1 with one. A 4 would have went in too higher up.
Rested once, really annoyed I didn't just crack on. awesome route, definitely doing it again clean soon.
really enjoyable and fun to work what to do, off widths are good!
|david morse||19/Feb/12||Lead O/S||
One of the best Grit routes I have done. Amazing
|Steven Carter||??/2012||Lead O/S|
mr g walters
|Adam Booth||28/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
Easier than I was expecting, and certainly very safe if you've got big cams. More like E1 then. Great little route.
|Ed Booth||28/Oct/11||2nd O/S|
|Hannes B||17/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
Great route, and not too hard for E2 i thought. Maybe it should go back to VS!
Great Fun. Getting to the good hold before the rockover was the crux. I will ignore that i slipped and mangled my arm jamming after that point. Brilliant
|Danny Crump||29/Aug/11||2nd O/S|
don't wear a helmet - as much as I hate saying this.
|belay bunny turned bad||20/Jul/11||Lead rpt|
a lot nicer on the second, and im sure benji felt better with a size 6 cam. top route, JB = hero
|Graeme Hammond||11/May/11||Lead O/S||
Had to take my helmet off to place the gear deep in the crack before the crux, I obviously have long arms or I'm good at squeezing in cracks as James could reach the gear, so had to abseil for it. Glade of a borrowed size 5 cam on the crux, a 6 would have been a better fit. Didn't have any other large for the upper crack but not too hard and beautiful laybacks :)
Very pleased to get this one on-sight. Been on the wish-list for a while. A brutal, thrutching squirm, but very satisfying. Didn't think the top section was a push-over at all (it's tough!), and did it using a combination of knee jam, a tiny bit of lay-backing and more thrutching!
|Mike Goldthorp||01/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
After an incredible day felt full-body tired, pleased to end it with this! Had 3 big cams (jussst about big enough for some of the narrowings in the crack) Offwidth-layback brilliance, good effort Mr. Brown!
|bigie bob||16/Feb/11||Lead O/S|
with Gareth 1 or 2 falls
|Daniel Heath||20/Nov/10||2nd β|
Nice hard route - so much so that it required shirt off climbing at the end of October! Cheers for the loan of the big cam Dave. Made the crux feel less scary.
|Dave Foster||24/Oct/10||2nd O/S||
If this route was an 'uman, it'd be the kind your momma told you to stay away from. Good lead Robin!
Found crux surprisingly easy, and then got a bit flummoxed on the top bit, as I had no wide gear left!
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||28/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
Tom Czech, Andrew
|Martin Brierley||?/May/10||2nd β||
Hard, even as second.
|ed edwards||?/May/10||AltLd O/S||
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||27/Mar/10||Lead rpt||
|belay bunny turned bad||29/Oct/09||2nd||
It wasn't the horrific struggle I had been expecting, in fact it was even enjoyable. Used two cams #4 for the upper crack but didn't have anything larger so had to really squirm to place a couple of smaller cams deep in the lower crack.
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||19/Sep/09||2nd||
Led this in c.1987
|ed woods||18/Aug/09||2nd O/S||
|Martin Haworth||04/Apr/09||Lead O/S|
|Andrew Sloan||04/Apr/09||2nd rpt|
|Tom Last||20/Mar/09||Lead dnf||
Been saving this for ages. Perfect day for it, but knackered myself out getting to the jug and fell off the crux. Not too disappointed as really this feels like the hardest route I've tried yet. So now I've got a project.
|Chi Cheng||?/Mar/09||2nd dog|
|Cragrat Rich||26/Oct/08||Lead O/S||
I just did the oaky-cokey, "right leg in, right leg out.. left arm in, out, in , out, shake it all about..etc etc and that's what it's all about" - Classic stuff. Really pleased to onsight this one! Buzzzin
Hard work. Made it look difficult....but it is.
A very terrifying experience, thought it would be ok but it's horrid. size 5 cam is just too small, and then i kicked it out when I climbed past it. rocking over onto the top slab was tough! Then I had no gear for the top crack.
didnt have a big enough cam, got a sling over the spike to protect the cruk, which revealed its self beautifully once i commited to it. Superb!!
Wish I'd had a cam bigger than size 4!
|joe larner||17/Nov/07||Lead O/S||
Really good climbing it helped having a no6 cam. Not really many offwidth moves though. great fun.
Nice bit of crack there, doesn't finish after the corner though. The No6 cam is the way forward, and you only need one since it can be recycled all the way up.
|Andrew Sloan||01/Sep/07||TR dog|
|Pete Graham||??/2007||Lead O/S|
My first proper offwidth- surprisingly technical and, more suprisingly, really enjoyable!
|adam carless||07/Nov/06||2nd O/S||
A full on offwidth battle - massive respect for Nick's lead.
pretty good feeling topping out, but not while climibing
Got passed the move - just. With my left hand in a great jam, my hands were too sweaty to hold the next hold. Luckily I had borrowed a size 5 freind and, despite being turned up-side-down, survived the day with lots of scrapes and bruises. Recommend only trying this in colder weather, boots which cover your ankles and thick clothing.
|Ram MkiV||27/May/06||Lead O/S||
fairly straight forward. offwidthed the top section all the way too though - felt more natural than the layback suggested in't guide.
Reeve and Alex
|Tim Steward||16/Apr/06||Lead O/S||
|beardy mike||??/2006||Lead dog||
|Steve Crowe||12/Apr/03||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||12/Mar/00||Lead O/S||
|craig h||?/Dec/90||2nd O/S||
|Dave Musgrove||09/Sep/90||Lead rpt|
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||09/Sep/90||2nd|
|William Robertson||??/1986||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Not as bad as it first appeared.
|Ian Jones||??/1981||Lead O/S||
Little Pete from Aber Uni.
Got some half-seated runner behind a chockstone and scuffed my way up. Excellent hold up on the left wall. Not one to do in shorts.
Went back to lead it but bottled it a couple of times before doing in 1988
Faced the wrong way!
Excellent handjam if you look for it!