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Strapiombo** E1 5b

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[Failing Miserably, 2 kb]9m. The roof crack to the right is a battle. The use of knees, and loss of copious skin, are all to be expected! © ROCKFAX
FA. Don Whillans 1956

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List.

Photo: Failing Miserably © mattyork2
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 231 logbooks, and on 40 wishlists.

Got over the lip but pumped out getting the next cam in. Very gutting, great fun and impressive for 5b!
Stroppy - Lead dog - 20/Jul/14 with Steve McClure

Hard, tried out jamming gloves for the first time, big help on the roof section probably riding help after pulling round the roof. Quality struggle.
Brannock - Lead - 12/Jul/14

John smashed this out with his funky homemade jamming gloves though had to take a couple of rests (swings) on gear. The ropes got stuck as he got near the top and he contemplated untying (I think he might have from one from one rope) due to the rope drag around the lip. Before seconding I abbed down to reclip the blue rope because I didn't want to take a massive swing. Upon climbing up to the roof crack I decided that I wasn't up for the second as I was convinced I would hit the floor if I fell off despite Robby's claim that it would be fine. The solution to this was to untie from one rope clip some gear to it and see how close it swung to the ground. After this experiment proved that I probably wouldn't hit the ground I tied in and on the demands that if I did hit the ground I expected 10 drinks from both Robby and Brannock I jumped off and took massive swing whilst screaming "fuck" in as high a pitch as I could manage!! Upon actually trying the route it turns out it is three big hand jams followed by a pull around on the lip.
MPSBunny - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/14 with John Brannock

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Loosie

admackie - 31/May/14 with rob

Tried a couple of times before. went ok today
deacondeacon - Lead - 31/May/14

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Deacon

Made it too hard for myself. Lowered off, clean 2nd go with the roof cams clipped.
Chriswallis2 - Lead RP - 16/Apr/14 with Jenny

Got a foot trapped in the roof crack on second, v. off-putting.
Climbster - 2nd dnf - 01/Apr/14 with Vick, Ian

Kiss the guns:>D! Just managed the on-sight after climbing for the last 11 days.
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Vic, Matt

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Adam Moroz

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/14 with Jen Maxfield

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

First time I've done a horizontal foot-jam. Rope got completely stuck between two lobes on a cam before second could come up. Great fun for me though
Cake - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with John Cooper

Julesthe1st - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/13 with Andy Borne

elbeanio - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Awesome imposing line, bit easier than expected from looking at it from bellow
hlegge - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Gareth Hooson

Fragmod - Lead - 14/Aug/13

Hard work.. but fun :D
Chris Redding - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Jack Knight

Fell off the first time coming out around the lip but everything went smoothly on the second attempt. Awesomely fun route; I kind of wish the roof bit was longer!
Jack93 - Lead RP - 08/Aug/13 with Amy Hare, Chris Redding

One fall at the lip. Second go easy once knew the beta.
Stuart Johnston - Lead dog - 25/May/13 with Sadie Renwick

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

A right struggle!
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 27/Apr/13 with Mark

God that was awkward, hard work
Thinker01 - 2nd dog - 27/Apr/13 with RFWilkie

What a mother this is. So close but slumped onto my jammed hand which stayed jammed. Ouch.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Sam Stringer

needed a rest before topping out. so pumpy for a short climb.
mark4344 - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13 with Matt Payne

Failed again!
cem - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/13 with Graham Dolman

andi turner - 2013

brutal fun ! had an awesome time on this buttress today :)
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with webby

Just epic! a great tussle made easier for me with fluttery foot-jams. Now to lead...
AlexanderRyanBanks - 2nd - 06/Oct/12 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 03/Oct/12

Couldn't get the thin hand jams to stick above roof :(
Ross.Cooper - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/12 with Harry Yarrow

Fantastic route!! Easier than it looks (if you are short..). Definitely a lot easier than the Mincer.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Olli Crudge

Aided, pretty damn hard. No idea what to do with my feet.
Olli-C - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/12

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Kenny

M_W_Court - 22/Jul/12

back in 2 weeks ..arrrhhh
gazfellows - Lead dnf - 20/May/12 with Billy nic, steff

Excellent climb! I think it was the first time for me that my feet went cut loose thoroughly relying on jamming even for a fraction of a second. Very committing. Cams placed on the roof crack were pushed and moved by the rope drag, but my second managed to retrieve them.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with Rob G, Simon P, Chris G, Lee P

I need to improve my jamming technique!
minaturechris - 2nd dog - 13/May/12 with Lee Parsons, Masa

Climbed it previously on 2nd with a friend. Still doesn't take it away from this climb. Stunning.
Karl Wooffindin - Lead RP - 12/May/12 with Nick D

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

very easy for E1
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 18/Mar/12 with random

Fell off under roof on first attempt and had to lower back to the start. Got up cleanly (but with a struggle) on second attempt.
Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 18/Mar/12 with Random Guy

Could not do it on top rope either, but will come back.
Kirill - Lead dnf - 18/Mar/12 with Elise Belle, Graham Dolman

Alex@home - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/12 with The Doctor

Elise2977 - TR dog - Mar/12

Chris Hind - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

a bit of a fight.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/11 with Andy, Mental nick, Daf

tonanf - AltLd - Nov/11

'Did not finish' not an accurate summary as I barely started it (was just curious to see what the start was like). There goes the onsight but will be back when feeling less knackered
cem - Lead dnf - 30/Oct/11 with Kirill Spiridonov

mark20 - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/11

tuftynick - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with dave musgrove

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 16/Oct/11 with Tufty

Ally Smith - Lead β - 15/Oct/11 with Naomi, Gareth

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Rosh

good wholesome fun. not as bad as it looks
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 22/Sep/11 with ben, guy

Out of practice and weak, my left hand just wasn't jamming properly! Gave it a fair few goes and then rain started pouring down the crack.
Guy Atkinson - Lead dnf - 18/Sep/11 with Chris Swift

Chi Cheng - Lead RP - 13/Sep/11 with Jon Fane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

Horrendous, nuff said. not my sort of thing at all!
Dan Lane - 2nd - 17/Aug/11 with Ruth Taylor, Andy Turner

tonanf - Aug/11 with Phil L

Phil and Andy
Barry D - 2nd - 12/Jul/11 with Andy H

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead dog - 24/May/11 with loundsy

JRae - Lead - 22/May/11 with Tom Dixon

No need to jam until you've passed the roof! Class route.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Johnny

Laurence Everitt - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/11 with Harry Thorpe

what a beast. Wish the roof crack was longer.
markalmack - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with james marjot

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

highlux - 09/Jan/11 with Martin Veale

walts4 - 2011

excellent fun and not that hard if you get the jams right just a bit bunched at the corner
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Pete aka Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

Gear in-situ (rope got stuck so lead instead of seconding)
sam820 - Lead β - 26/Sep/10 with Matt Roper, Terry

Didn't jam once
sparkass - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Emerson Clark

awesome!
natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with gary

Went up to the crack several times trying to figure out the best way to do it, eventually decided you needed two hands jammed in the crack and to control the swing of your legs from left to right, got jams in, left hand fist jam absolutely solid, swing right foot to small lips on right face, knee contact is inevitable, take right hand out, desperately grope for good hand hold on right lip, pull yourself up, left elbow on ledge, toes in little foothold, wang a nut in, take five minutes to get you breath back. Hand jams are solid, lost very little skin, well chuffed :-) ( One rope got jammed though while going up final slab and had to untie it with one hand, glad it was a bowline )
MikeLeeds - Lead - 15/Aug/10 with Kevin Bowser

Oceanic - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Speeddemonsi - Lead - 07/Jul/10

Andrew1 - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with Dave

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Jun/10

vark - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10

Chi Cheng - Lead dnf - 22/May/10 with Rachel Stater

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

took 2 falls that i shouldn't have, lowered, replaced gear and lead clean. really annoyed about blowing the onsight, great route.
andrew sandercock - Lead RP - 14/Mar/10 with Chrismo

Gazzawatson - 2nd - 2010

Drew M - Lead - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

JulesV - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/09 with dave evans

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Sep/09

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead RP - 19/Sep/09 with James Kay

Don Jebus - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/09 with frazer

mark s - Lead - 13/Sep/09 with andi,grimer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Bill Lawrence

proved my manhood on this beast of a climb!
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with alex mason, oaksi2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09

Fell off the crux. Got is second go.
DavidR - Lead dog - 13/Jun/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd RP - 13/Jun/09

Gutted! Thought i'd nailed it but on the top crack a sweaty jam slid down onto the cam below crushing my thumb, which is still numb! I grabbed the cam to take the weight off. Proper sad :-(
Dave Warburton - Lead dog - 31/May/09 with Franco, Luke and Twigg

desperate
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 02/May/09 with Alex Malins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

DanH9883 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Kenny D

mlmatt - Lead - 25/Apr/09 with Dan Masterman

mel holmes - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/09 with Alex@home

Ian Parnell - Lead - Apr/09 with Jon Winter

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/09

nige - Lead - 15/Mar/09 with mark hounslea

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead dnf - 31/Jan/09 with Cocky

andy jennings - 2nd β - 2009 with Floris

Tez29 - Lead dog - 19/Oct/08 with Mousey

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Oct/08

Had done the hard bit but pumped out in the crag. Pathetic lack of commitment and really pissed off.
Stig - Lead dog - 17/Sep/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 10/Aug/08

datoon - Lead dog - 13/Jul/08 with S

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08

Nice route. quite comfy jams. pulled my slipper off in a foot jam and had to put heel back in once i got to the lip.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/May/08

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Fell off on first try after missing a really obvious foothold. Led ground-up.
Andrew Barker - Lead - 2008

Big sloth-like struggle. Almost forgot there was a foothold on the lower edge until I was nearly off! One of the hardest earned onsights I can remember
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with Sharon R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07

took an almighty whipper on this one, came pretty close to decking. thought hands were good, moved feet into the crack then off i pop ;-) had to prussik to get back on route so not the full tick
gb83 - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/07 with I.Killey

Joe Dove - 2nd - 28/Jul/07 with kev

Good route and not that thrutchy!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/07 with Vash

v.jester - 2nd - Jul/07 with alex

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Jun/07

jchenoweth - 2nd dog - 10/Jun/07 with NJSharp

wolverine - Lead - 20/May/07 with Iain Mount

John Roberts (JR) - Lead rpt - 19/May/07

wow!!!!
robman - Lead dnf - 15/Apr/07 with Tim

doug s - Lead - 17/Mar/07 with Jerry

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Mar/07

Something that is easier for the short, for once! Quite enjoyed that.
alicia - 2nd - 14/Mar/07 with Nick Smith

steve taylor - 2007

davetigger - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 19/Nov/06

mattyork2 - Lead dnf - 19/Nov/06 with Greg Sexton

Martyn - Lead dnf - Jun/06 with Simon Bayliss

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/06

ChrisJD - Lead - 18/Feb/06 with rc

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/06

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

Could only do it with the use of knees.Rope got stuck in crack as i went over the lip!
shaunhvs - Lead - 2006 with Gary Butcher

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Dec/05 with Dad

Nicos - Lead - 20/Nov/05

Nicos - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/05 with rich howels

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/05

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Nov/05

Hidden - Lead - 12/Nov/05

ChrisBrooke - Lead dog - 12/Nov/05 with John Fryer

Brutal, but somehow very tempting and encouraging. One rest at the lip before committing to the top section. Possible E2 5c if you layback the whole thing (which I did...)
Pythonist - Lead dog - 02/Oct/05

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Jul/05

Nearly did myself an injury getting my foot on at the end of the roof crack. Watching Ben climb was a privelege.
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/05 with Ben Heason

SteveM - Lead - 04/Jul/04 with Cogie

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/04

mark s - 2004

feilx - 2004

Chris Davids - 2nd dog - Jul/03 with Reuben

Hidden - Mar/03

Duncan I - Lead - 2002 with Chris Polden

VPJB - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/01

frost - Lead O/S - May/01 with D Garry

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

ajc - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/99

ChrisJD - Lead - Mar/99 with TimSp

Hidden - 2nd β - 18/Oct/98

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/98 with Mark Walker

five - Lead dog - Jul/98

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Feb/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/98

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/98 with Chris Gilligan, William Wilson, adam ellwood

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo - 24/Jan/98 with Chris Ranner

WB - Lead O/S - 1998

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/97 with Dave Banham-Hughes

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/95

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/95 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/95

Hidden - 1995

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 29/May/94 with Martin Veale

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/93

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/May/93 with Steven Delderfield

IanD353 - Lead O/S - Mar/93

craig d - 1993

Neil R - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/92 with Richard W

NickJH - 2nd O/S - May/91 with N Hancock

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

spent too much time under the overhang
Nick Rundall - Lead dnf - 1990

michael burrows - 2nd - 28/Mar/86 with steve williams

andy tetsill - Lead - Mar/85 with Manchester Poly

Gezzer - 1984

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/May/83

Hidden - Lead - 1983

babymoac - Lead - Jun/81 with MTW

Andy Say - Lead - 03/May/81

Hammy - Lead - 22/Nov/80 with Rob Lawson

Andy Fielding - Lead - 1980

JEP - 1980

JEP - 1980

Chris Craggs - Lead O/S - 1980 with Nigel Baker

nbotting - 1980

Mike Owen - 14/Apr/79 with Keith Robertson

Hidden - Solo O/S - 1978

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/77

Mark Kemball - Lead - 12/Jun/76 with George Mumford

Derek Ryden - TR O/S - Oct/75 with Andy Douse

rogerskews - 1973 with Dane Atkins

David Smith - 1970

mikej - Lead - 15/Jun/69 with Mike Browne

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Voting
Total votes cast 162
hard E20 of 56
E20 of 56
easy E26 of 56
hard E15 of 56
E128 of 56
easy E115 of 56
hard HVS2 of 56
HVS0 of 56
easy HVS0 of 56
hard 5c0 of 54
5c0 of 54
easy 5c2 of 54
hard 5b11 of 54
5b32 of 54
easy 5b9 of 54
hard 5a0 of 54
5a0 of 54
easy 5a0 of 54
3 Stars11 of 52
2 Stars36 of 52
1 Star3 of 52
0 Stars0 of 52
Bag of .....2 of 52
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 231 (0.9%)
Lead150 of 231 (64.9%)
Followed41 of 231 (17.7%)
Toproped2 of 231 (0.9%)
Alt Leads3 of 231 (1.3%)
Unknown33 of 231 (14.3%)

'Climbed'94 of 231 (40.7%)
clean O/S74 of 231 (32.0%)
clean β5 of 231 (2.2%)
clean rpt5 of 231 (2.2%)
clean RP9 of 231 (3.9%)
dogged27 of 231 (11.7%)
dnf17 of 231 (7.4%)