The roof crack to the right is a battle. The use of knees, and loss of chunks of flesh, are pretty much par for the course. © Rockfax
FA. Don Whillans 1956
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Ace route, sinker fist jam in the roof!
A pumpy little tussle. First led in 2011.
|Sam McCarthy||06/Jun||Lead dnf|
|Matt Shepherd||16/May||Lead rpt|
Fantastic roof crack, almost felt sick at the top but great fun.
took plenty of falls trying to get through the roof but didn't manage it beore the rain got to everything. Then aided it to get the gear back. Hard work and educational (not to mention damp).
Zheylo Vasilev, Jake Jones, Michael Finegan
Repeat to collect gear after Andy had a valiant effort.
|Jake Young||11/Apr||Lead O/S|
A right foot jam and a hand jam over the lip! Happy dayz ;)
|Sam Simpson||10/Nov/14||Lead O/S|
|Mark Grist||10/Nov/14||Lead RP|
Finally managed to get up this.
Ricardo Da Silva
|Mark Grist||18/Oct/14||Lead dog||
|Rachel Slater||21/Sep/14||2nd rpt|
|tim newton||21/Sep/14||Lead O/S|
|Calum Wadsworth||21/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
On Toms gear.
really fun climbing, I found it to be like one step up from roof route at Rivelin, but one step easier than the unprintable at Stanage.
finally got this clean. pumpy route.
Dan Vaj, Matt Payne
Got over the lip but pumped out getting the next cam in. Very gutting, great fun and impressive for 5b!
Hard, tried out jamming gloves for the first time, big help on the roof section probably riding help after pulling round the roof. Quality struggle.
John smashed this out with his funky homemade jamming gloves though had to take a couple of rests (swings) on gear. The ropes got stuck as he got near the top and he contemplated untying (I think he might have from one from one rope) due to the rope drag around the lip. Before seconding I abbed down to reclip the blue rope because I didn't want to take a massive swing. Upon climbing up to the roof crack I decided that I wasn't up for the second as I was convinced I would hit the floor if I fell off despite Robby's claim that it would be fine. The solution to this was to untie from one rope clip some gear to it and see how close it swung to the ground. After this experiment proved that I probably wouldn't hit the ground I tied in and on the demands that if I did hit the ground I expected 10 drinks from both Robby and Brannock I jumped off and took massive swing whilst screaming "fuck" in as high a pitch as I could manage!! Upon actually trying the route it turns out it is three big hand jams followed by a pull around on the lip.
Tried a couple of times before. went ok today
Made it too hard for myself. Lowered off, clean 2nd go with the roof cams clipped.
Got a foot trapped in the roof crack on second, v. off-putting.
|Bloke on a Rope||01/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
Kiss the guns:>D! Just managed the on-sight after climbing for the last 11 days.
|Mr Wild||01/Apr/14||Lead O/S|
First time I've done a horizontal foot-jam. Rope got completely stuck between two lobes on a cam before second could come up. Great fun for me though
Awesome imposing line, bit easier than expected from looking at it from bellow
|Chris Redding||08/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Hard work.. but fun :D
Fell off the first time coming out around the lip but everything went smoothly on the second attempt. Awesomely fun route; I kind of wish the roof bit was longer!
|Stuart Johnston||25/May/13||Lead dog||
One fall at the lip. Second go easy once knew the beta.
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||19/May/13||Lead O/S|
A right struggle!
God that was awkward, hard work
What a mother this is. So close but slumped onto my jammed hand which stayed jammed. Ouch.
needed a rest before topping out. so pumpy for a short climb.
brutal fun ! had an awesome time on this buttress today :)
Just epic! a great tussle made easier for me with fluttery foot-jams. Now to lead...
Couldn't get the thin hand jams to stick above roof :(
|Rachel Slater||09/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
Fantastic route!! Easier than it looks (if you are short..). Definitely a lot easier than the Mincer.
Aided, pretty damn hard. No idea what to do with my feet.
back in 2 weeks ..arrrhhh
Billy nic, steff
Excellent climb! I think it was the first time for me that my feet went cut loose thoroughly relying on jamming even for a fraction of a second. Very committing. Cams placed on the roof crack were pushed and moved by the rope drag, but my second managed to retrieve them.
I need to improve my jamming technique!
Lee Parsons, Masa
|Karl Wooffindin||12/May/12||Lead RP||
Climbed it previously on 2nd with a friend. Still doesn't take it away from this climb. Stunning.
|Andy Peak 1||18/Mar/12||Lead||
very easy for E1
Could not do it on top rope either, but will come back.
Elise Belle, Graham Dolman
a bit of a fight.
Andy, Mental nick, Dafydd Llywelyn
'Did not finish' not an accurate summary as I barely started it (was just curious to see what the start was like). There goes the onsight but will be back when feeling less knackered
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||16/Oct/11||AltLd|
|Matt Cooke||24/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
good wholesome fun. not as bad as it looks
|Guy Atkinson||18/Sep/11||Lead dnf||
Out of practice and weak, my left hand just wasn't jamming properly! Gave it a fair few goes and then rain started pouring down the crack.
|Chi Cheng||13/Sep/11||Lead RP|
Horrendous, nuff said. not my sort of thing at all!
Ruth Taylor, Andy Turner
Phil and Andy
|belay bunny turned bad||24/May/11||Lead dog|
No need to jam until you've passed the roof! Class route.
|Laurence Everitt||24/Apr/11||Lead dnf|
what a beast. Wish the roof crack was longer.
|Graeme Hammond||09/Oct/10||Lead O/S||
excellent fun and not that hard if you get the jams right just a bit bunched at the corner
Pete aka Dad
Gear in-situ (rope got stuck so lead instead of seconding)
Matt Roper, Terry
Didn't jam once
Went up to the crack several times trying to figure out the best way to do it, eventually decided you needed two hands jammed in the crack and to control the swing of your legs from left to right, got jams in, left hand fist jam absolutely solid, swing right foot to small lips on right face, knee contact is inevitable, take right hand out, desperately grope for good hand hold on right lip, pull yourself up, left elbow on ledge, toes in little foothold, wang a nut in, take five minutes to get you breath back. Hand jams are solid, lost very little skin, well chuffed :-) ( One rope got jammed though while going up final slab and had to untie it with one hand, glad it was a bowline )
|Chi Cheng||22/May/10||Lead dnf|
|andrew sandercock||14/Mar/10||Lead RP||
took 2 falls that i shouldn't have, lowered, replaced gear and lead clean. really annoyed about blowing the onsight, great route.
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||19/Sep/09||Lead RP||
|Don Jebus||15/Sep/09||2nd O/S||
|James Oakes||06/Sep/09||Lead O/S|
|Bill Lawrence||06/Sep/09||Lead O/S||
proved my manhood on this beast of a climb!
alex mason, oaksi2
Fell off the crux. Got is second go.
|Dave Warburton||31/May/09||Lead dog||
Gutted! Thought i'd nailed it but on the top crack a sweaty jam slid down onto the cam below crushing my thumb, which is still numb! I grabbed the cam to take the weight off. Proper sad :-(
Franco, Luke and Twigg
|Dr Caterpillar||02/May/09||2nd dog||
|mel holmes||08/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||31/Jan/09||Lead dnf||
|andy jennings||??/2009||2nd β||
Had done the hard bit but pumped out in the crag. Pathetic lack of commitment and really pissed off.
|joe larner||20/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
Nice route. quite comfy jams. pulled my slipper off in a foot jam and had to put heel back in once i got to the lip.
Fell off on first try after missing a really obvious foothold. Led ground-up.
|Cragrat Rich||30/Sep/07||Lead O/S||
Big sloth-like struggle. Almost forgot there was a foothold on the lower edge until I was nearly off! One of the hardest earned onsights I can remember
took an almighty whipper on this one, came pretty close to decking. thought hands were good, moved feet into the crack then off i pop ;-) had to prussik to get back on route so not the full tick
|Alex Mason||05/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
Good route and not that thrutchy!
Something that is easier for the short, for once! Quite enjoyed that.
Could only do it with the use of knees.Rope got stuck in crack as i went over the lip!
Brutal, but somehow very tempting and encouraging. One rest at the lip before committing to the top section. Possible E2 5c if you layback the whole thing (which I did...)
Nearly did myself an injury getting my foot on at the end of the roof crack. Watching Ben climb was a privelege.
|Chris Davids||?/Jul/03||2nd dog||
|Stoney Boy||06/Sep/98||2nd O/S||
Chris Gilligan, William Wilson, adam ellwood
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||24/Jan/98||Solo||
|Chris Reid||28/Sep/96||Lead O/S|
|Neil R||20/Apr/92||Lead O/S||
|Nick Rundall||??/1990||Lead dnf||
spent too much time under the overhang
|Chris Craggs||??/1980||Lead O/S||
|Steve Bell||??/1978||Solo O/S|
|Derek Ryden||?/Oct/75||TR O/S||