Climbs 454
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

Almost There. Johnny Woodward on FA of Beau Geste March ?? 1982 © chris_jackson

Crag features

The main edge is a virtually continuous face of exceptionally clean and quick-drying rock of the highest quality up to 17m high. Both natural and quarried buttress exist, giving a variety of climbing styles, although the edge is home to some of the best slab climbing in the country.Work your way along the grades with Sunset Slab (VS 4b), Three Pebble Slab (E1 5a), Long John's Slab (E3-ish 5c), Downhill Racer (E4 6a) to finish up the superb Hairless Heart (E5 6a). Popular routes are polished and weekends often busy. An excellent sun-trap on winter days. Best routes: Valkyrie (HVS 5a) and Beau Geste (E7 6c).

Approach notes

From the North on the B6054 Sheffield to Calver road, parking available just below The Grouse Inn (SK 259779). Alternatively head East from just South of The Chequers Inn (SK 247760).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
I'd include Heather Wall and Green Gut among the "best routes" at their grade.
JohnHutch - 15/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Computer Say No 
2Tall ArÍte
-
f5  
3Sideays Says Sigmund
-
f6B  
4Ants on the Moon
-
f5+  
5Computer Says No Left-hand
-
f6A+ 1
6Computer Says No
-
f7A+  
7Sub Roccf6C **2
 Hairpin Boulder 
9Hairpin CleftVB 27
10Tourist PathVB 30
11Flake ProblemV0- 38
12Hairpin ArÍtef5 *109
13Hairpin ArÍte Leftf4 42
14Hairpin Scoopf4+ *115
15Crash Testf6A+ **125
16Jump Before You Lookf6B+ **22
17Vanishing Pointf6C **10
18Jelly Stand-up
-
f6B+ 11
19Bullittf7A *10
20Jelly Bomb
-
f7C * 
21Square GrooveV0+ 6
22Round MantelV0 3
 HIDDEN BUTTRESS 
24Isla GraceE6 6c 4
25Easter FoolE2 5c  
26Gyron GrooveHVS 5a *1
27Hot KnivesE4 6b * 
28RomanceHVS 5b  
29CavatinaE3 6a  
30The lliadVS 4c  
 Boat Buttress 
32Christmasf5+ 1
33Boat Wallf4 5
34The Cabinf4+ 4
35Z Crack
-
S 4c 11
36Z Crack Wallf5 2
37Tom and Elsief5+ 2
 The Barrel 
39Barrel Organistf7A 2
40Glorious Gritstone Mantelshelff7A+  
41Avoiding the Treetorsf6A  
 KRYPTON BUTTRESS 
4317 Year ItchE1 6a 1
4417 Year Itch ChimneyHVD  
45Slope CrackHVD 4a 2
46Hide and SeekE1 5c  
47MastermindE4 6a *1
48Krypton FactorE4 5c **1
49The SlabVS 4c 10
50Brush Up
-
VS 4c 4
51Two Pebble SlabE1 5c *28
52Nine Pebble SlabE6 6c  
53BrainflowerV3  
 Downes' Buttress 
55Black WallHVS 5a 1
56Biscuits for Cheese
-
V5  
57Box of FrogsV6  
58Lake of Flakes
-
V5  
59Armadillo Pillow
-
V4  
60V EarV2 1
61The Trees' Knees
-
V4  
62Matchbox ArÍte
-
f6A+  
63Slipper SlabHVS 5a *11
64Gripper GrabV2  
65Glass Slipperf7A+ **24
66Glass Slipper Sit-Start
-
f7A+ 1
67Morty's CornerHVS 5a *9
68Downes' Crimpsf6B 3
69Downes' CrackVS 5a *74
70Retro Crack
-
VS 4c 1
71Pillar Wall
-
D 3
72Retro Crack RH Groove
-
HD  
73Retro crack Far RH Arete
-
HVD 4b  
74Retro Crack Far RH Groove
-
VD  
75Chin Mania
-
f7A+  
76Froggattmania
-
E1 5c  
77Chin Grinder
-
E6 6c * 
78Just CrackHS 4a 4
79JacobHVS 5b 3
80HibernationE5 6a **1
81Esau
-
E3 6a *3
82Esau Direct Start
-
E3 5c  
83FirecrackerE7 6b * 
84FirelighterV1  
85Backseat NothingE2 5b  
86Cud U LikeE1 5a  
 Brookside Buttress 
88Vomer
-
E2 6a *1
89Vomer Harris
-
HS 5a 1
90Neb CrackVS 4c *41
91Perfect MiniatureVS 4b 2
92Dick Van Dyke Goes BallisticE7 6b *1
93Indoor FishermanE4 6a ***91
94Ghost of the BrookE4 6a  
95Crooked StartHS 4b *144
96Crooked Start DirectVS 4c *35
97Tinsel's TangleS 4a *134
98PiledriverHVS 5b *20
99Piledriver Direct Start
-
HVS 6a *1
100Brookside CrackVD *65
101Slack Time
-
HS 4b 6
102Brookside Gully
-
D 6
103Fisherman's Friend
-
V4  
104Old King Cascadef7B+ **41
105Ol' Man Riverf7C *6
106Ladies' Wall
-
f7C 4
107Ladies Buttress
-
VD 6
108Ladies Buttress IndirectD 1
109Belly Dancer
-
E1 6a  
110Burnt Sienna
-
f6B  
111Kimb's Limbs
-
f7A+  
112Carry on Screaming
-
f6B+ 2
113Les Grands Doigts
-
f7C 3
114Bad Landing Crack
-
f6A+  
115Flipworker
-
f6A 1
116Flipper
-
V3  
117Smooch
-
V0 1
118Chooch
-
V1  
119Rowan
-
f6A+  
120Yorkshire Kipper
-
V1  
121Yorkshire Flipper
-
V3  
122Flipside
-
V0  
 Renegade Buttress 
124Renegade Bulge
-
f6C 10
125Bulge Right-Hand
-
f6C+ 6
126Staircase
-
V0- 6
127Stoke Hall Arete
-
V1 1
128Fair Flora
-
V0 2
129Fair Flora RH Arete
-
V0- 2
130Screaming DreamE7 6c ** 
131Renegade Masterf7C+ **7
132Dave's Dyno
-
f7C 1
133Thuggy Bearf7A+ ***4
134Freckles
-
V2  
135The Famous Chris EllisE4 6a 2
 The Tombstone 
137Tombstone Groove
-
f4+ 7
138Shallow Groovef6A 18
139Shallow Gravef7B *1
140Tombstonef7A+ *34
141Tombstone Arete
-
f5+ 29
 Sunset Boulders 
143Bottoms Upf4 2
144Scurryf5+ 3
145Daylight Grubberyf6B 3
146Goodnight Tigerf5 3
147Holy Greenf7A 1
148Morning Woodf6B 1
149Splattacakef6A+ ** 
150Rampagef7A ** 
151Dreamboatf7A **3
152Breezef6A+  
153Cheesef5+  
154Easef4 4
155Teddybear's Pinicf6C **3
156Big Surprisef5 2
157Big Surprise Sit-Start
-
f7A  
158Eat Your Greensf6A+  
159Nobody Nosef6C  
160Emerald Aislef7A ** 
161Wolfensteinf5+  
162White Lycanf6A+  
163White Lycan Sit-Startf7B  
164The Other Half Has Hairy Legsf6C  
 The Loaf 
166Misplaced Childhood
-
V2 1
167Toasted
-
f6B 12
168Hot Butter Knives
-
f7A 13
169Stottie
-
f7B 3
170The Captainf7A ***3
 The Frog 
172Froggit
-
f5 3
173Kermit's Finger
-
f6A 1
 The Gully 
175Slanting Flake TraverseVB 8
176Gully Dyno
-
f6C 6
177Fiddler's ArÍte
-
f6C 4
178Fiddler's Arete Rockover
-
V0- 4
 APE DRAPE 
180Debut Wall
-
HVS 5b  
181Debutante
-
HVS 5a  
182Ape Drape
-
f6C+ ***92
183Ape Drape Direct Finish
-
f7A+ ***4
184Monkey man
-
f7B+ **1
 Strapiombo Buttress 
186StrapathyroidV1 1
187StrapiombanteE1 5b **1229
188StrapadictomyE5 6b ***179
189Cockchafer
-
E5 6b  
190Cock RobinE6 7a *3
191StrappotenteE7 7a * 
192StrapiomboE1 5b **262
193HaarowE6 6c * 
194English OverhangVS 4c *65
195Scarper's TriangleE2 5b *75
196Broken Heart
-
E2 5c 3
197ScarperedVS 4c 11
198Oss NobE4 6a 4
199Left Flake CrackS 4a 160
200Le Diabolique Chien Noir
-
E1 5b 1
201Right Flake CrackHS 4b 57
202Parallel PipedE3 5c *139
203Benign LivesE7 6b **30
204MildE4 6b 10
205Mild Side
-
V0+ 12
206Mild Side A
-
V0- 4
207Mild Side B
-
V0- 4
208Historically InsignificantE3 6a 1
209Slim Pickings
-
V0- 1
210Puddy Tat
-
V4 1
211Pussy Cat
-
V0- 1
212Tom Katz
-
V2 1
213Geordie Ewoks
-
E6 6c ** 
214Gentlefish
-
E4 6a 3
215Chockstone CrackHS 4b *68
216C.H.M.S. 1
-
VS 4b 38
217Butch
-
V2 1
218Pig Heart Boy
-
f7B **10
219Cast Off
-
f6B *1
220Leggit
-
f6B **55
221The Nose
-
V0+ 2
 Sunset Slab 
223Science FrictionE6 6a *37
224Fatal AttractionE5 6a 4
225North ClimbHVD 4a *1052
226What's Up Doc?E2 5a 108
227Sunset Slab direct startVS 4b **41
228SundownerE2 5a *661
229Sunset SlabHVS 4b ***2527
230Sunset CrackHS 4b **3197
231Turret CrackHS 4b 572
232Slab and CrackD *562
 Hawk's Nest Crack 
234Ramp-ArtE5 6a  
235Soul DoubtE8 6c **4
236Beau GesteE7 6c *** 
237Epiphany Left-handE6 6b **3
238Holly GrooveVS 4c *452
239Hawk's Nest CrackVS 4c ***1148
240Horizontal PlacesE5 6b *2
241Cave Crack IndirectHVS 5a *16
242Cave CrackE3 5c **122
243Rambeauf7B **26
244Cave CrawlHS 5a **363
245Cave WallE3 5c ***66
246Beau BrummellE4 6a *1
247Swimmer's ChimneyS 4a *165
 Terrace Crack 
249BrightsideE2 5c **301
250Better Dead Than SmegE6 6c * 
251Greedy PigE5 6b *6
252AvalancheE2 6a *31
253SkogulS 4a 89
254Mean StreakE6 6b *7
255The Gully JokeE3 5c *68
256Terrace CrackHS 4b **1489
257Sandy GullyD 22
258BudE7 6c *1
259GerminationE5 6a *1
260March HareE1 6a 4
261Central GullyM 16
 Tody's Wall 
263Heather Wall VariantHVS 29
264NightshadeE3 5c 2
265Kanji ClassE3 6a * 
266C.M.C. SlabHVS 5b *567
267Heather WallHVD 3c ***3448
268GripE2 5b *101
269RatbagE2 5b *311
270EquanimityE7 6c **1
271Tody's WallHVS 5a ***3317
272MotorcadeE1 5a **757
273TodycadeE1 5a 19
274Silver CrackHS 4b *497
275Silver LiningE5 5c *36
276Silver TraverseHVD 4a *40
277Origin of SpeciesE5 6a *24
278Bollard CrackVS 4c *333
279Georgie Porgief7A 1
280Roman OrgyE4 6b *2
281Heather Groove
-
HS 4b 76
282Stealing the Misanthrope's PurseHVS 5a 3
283Rose Apple
-
V1 1
284Snow White
-
V0 1
 Tody's Playgound 
286Hot Toddyf7A ***9
287Tree Wall
-
f5 *203
288The EyesV3 **76
289The Eyes Directf7A *3
290Tody's Pocket
-
f4+ **239
291Thin wall
-
f6A **155
292Tody Boy
-
f5+ *153
293Tody Bear
-
f5 **167
294Tody's Right ArÍte
-
V0 *37
 Three Pebble Slab 
296Soft OptionD 502
297TopomaniaHS 4a 26
298Two-sided TriangleHVS 5b *570
299Three Pebble SlabHVS 5a ***3217
300Four Pebble SlabE3 5c *334
301Grey SlabS 4b *573
302Nanoq SlabE1 5b 86
 Turd Burglar Block 
304Heather in My FaceE1 5b 12
305Turd BurglarE6 6b *3
306Oz BoundE9 7a * 
307Dogs Die in Hot CarsE6 7a *1
308My OrangeE6 6c ** 
309The Sound of One Foot Slippingf7A+ *1
310Pea Crab Shuffle
-
f7C *6
311Jetpack
-
f7B *18
312Jetpack Left-Handf7A *7
313Jetpack (Easy)f7A *7
314Scandalous
-
f7B  
315Gibsonitus
-
f7B *1
316The Green 45
-
f7A 1
 The Pinnacle 
318ValkyrieHVS 5a ***1596
319Valkyrie Direct
-
HVS 5b 12
320Pinnacle Traversef7A+ *7
321Neon Dustf7C+ *4
322Neon Dust Direct
-
f7C+ * 
323NarcissusE6 6b ***59
324Narcissus IIE5 6b *1
325Keeping the Ratio HighE6 6c *** 
326Oedipus Direct
-
f6B+ **128
327Glamourpuss
-
f6C+ 5
328Oedipus Traverse
-
f6B ***124
329Oedipus Ring Your MotherE4 6b **161
330The Mint 400E6 6c **10
331Mint 400 Direct
-
f7B+ *5
332Pinnacle AreteE2 5b *36
333BirthdayE3 6a * 
334Reverse DiscoE2 5c  
335Fame at LastHVS 5b 1
336Chapman's CrackVS 4c *42
337Route OneVS 5a *47
338Pinnacle FaceVS 5b *26
339My NewtE1 5b  
340Trewlee OribleVD 4
341Truly PatheticHVS 5c 14
342Diamond CrackHS 4b **1438
343Cubic ZirconiaE3 6b *1
344Corner CrackVD 200
 Sickle Buttress 
346Left BrokenVS 5a *47
347Broken CrackVS 5a **747
348Sickle ButtressS 4a *863
349Sickle Buttress DirectVS 4c *853
350Sickle Buttress AreteVS 5a 18
351Performing FleaHVS 5a *142
352Flake Climb (Original)HVD 5
353Flake Climb
-
VS 4c 6
354Tree SurvivorE3 6a *5
355SorrallionVD 48
356Short not SweetE2 5c  
357Congestion CrackHS 4c *340
 Pinnacle Boulders 
359Baby Bearf4 54
360Areet (Left)
-
f4 63
361Areet (Right)
-
f5 63
362Starter Motor
-
f5 57
363Pick Pocket
-
f4+ 102
364The Northernerf5+ **57
365Teddyf3+ 72
366Pooh Bearf3 *74
367Bear Poof3 63
368Rupert Bearf2+ 17
369Bare Rupertf2+ 17
370Where?f2 12
371Flatulence
-
f4+ 75
372Air Bear
-
f4+ 130
373Mini Mantel
-
f3+ 107
374Care Bear
-
f4+ 44
375Mantelicious
-
f6B *49
376Naughtyf4+ 72
377Pinnacle Boulder 19f5 *25
378The Broken Chairf6B 2
379Groovyf5 63
380Rib Tickler
-
f4+ 79
381Come Togetherf3+ 63
382Nasal Passage
-
f4+ *37
383Ledgeway
-
f5+ 23
 Downhill Racer 
385Long John's Left-HandE6 6c * 
386Long John's SlabE3 5c **626
387Downhill RacerE4 6a ***208
388Downhill Racer StartV2 *9
389Direct Start to Downhill Racer
-
f7A+ *19
390Uphill DriverE1 5b 8
391Slab Recess DirectHS 4c *1820
392Joe's ArÍtef6B *298
393Thin Slabf7A+ *3
394Mono Seamf6C+ *22
395Mono Seam Right-Handf7A 1
396Joe's Slab/Joe's Direct Startf5+ ***725
397Slab Popf6C *82
398Joe's Slab Traversef7A **11
399Slab RecessD **1619
400GammaVD 1580
401Allen's SlabS 4a **1517
402Polyp PieceE7 6c * 
403SwingE1 5a 41
404Trapeze DirectVS 4c *2047
405TrapezeVD **1329
406AlphaHVS 5b 35
407Nursery SlabM 772
 Great Slab 
409Heartless HareE5 5c **184
410Jugged HareE6 6a *11
411Lonely HeartE9 6c * 
412Great SlabE3 5b ***431
413Art BrutE7 6b * 
414Hairless HeartE5 5c ***100
415Hairy HeartE6 6a *12
416ArtlessE5 6b **88
417Artless/Hairless HeartE5 6b *** 
418Toy Boyf7C+ * 
419SynopsisE2 5c **308
420Parting HareE3 5c * 
421BetaVD 307
422Spine ChillerE4 5c *3
423Spinal Crackf5+ *18
424Spine Chiller Start
-
f6B+ **15
425Spinal Tapf6C+ **15
426Lankaster Bomberf7C  
427Chiller Wall
-
f6B *2
428Nutty LandE1 5c *29
429Flake GullyVD *262
430Straight and NarrowE3 5c **27
 Brown's Eliminate 
432Brown's Eliminate DirectE3 5c **123
433Brown's EliminateE2 5b ***1134
434ArmageddonE3 5c *98
435Green GutHS 4a ***2460
436Pedestal CrackHVS 5a **921
437Slide ShowE6 6c * 
438Slingshotf8A *10
439Blind VisionE9 7a ** 
440Chequers Groovef7C+ *1
441Paranoid AndroidE3 5c 6
442The Big CrackE2 5b ***378
443Circus / Hard CheddarE7 6b *6
444Hard CheddarE5 6b *10
445Stiff CheeseE2 5c *63
446Beech NutE1 5c 76
447Chequers CrackHVS 5c **720
448Spock's MissingE5 6b *11
449Business Lunchf7C *5
450Sole Powerf7C ***22
451Our Solesf7C  
 Chequers Buttress 
453Chequers ButtressHVS 5a ***2413
454Chequers ClimbVS 4c **129
455Bacteria CafeteriaE1 5b *94
456Wok PowerE3 6a * 
457Solomon's CrackVD *539
458Solomon's Crack VariationS 4a 99
459Janker's CrackHS 4b *531
460Janker's GrooveVS 4c *368
461The Whillans DirectV3 4
462Jankers Groove Sit Start
-
f6C **13
463Janker's EndVS 4c *158
464Janker's RampHVS 4c *3
465The Last DanceS 4b 7
 Traverses 
467The Valkyrie Girdle TraverseHVS 5b  
468The System (Oread's Girdle)E3 5b  
 Unknown 

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