Climbs 436
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 263m a.s.l
Faces W

Almost There. Johnny Woodward on FA of Beau Geste March ?? 1982 © chris_jackson

Crag features

The main edge is a virtually continuous face of exceptionally clean and quick-drying rock of the highest quality up to 17m high. Both natural and quarried buttress exist, giving a variety of climbing styles, although the edge is home to some of the best slab climbing in the country.Work your way along the grades with Sunset Slab (VS 4b), Three Pebble Slab (E1 5a), Long John's Slab (E3-ish 5c), Downhill Racer (E4 6a) to finish up the superb Hairless Heart (E5 6a). Popular routes are polished and weekends often busy. An excellent sun-trap on winter days. Best routes: Valkyrie (HVS 5a) and Beau Geste (E7 6c).

Approach notes

From the North on the B6054 Sheffield to Calver road, parking available just below The Grouse Inn (SK 259779). Alternatively head East from just South of The Chequers Inn (SK 247760).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
I'd include Heather Wall and Green Gut among the "best routes" at their grade.
JohnHutch - 15/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Computer Say No 
2Tall ArÍte
-
f5  
3Sideays Says Sigmund
-
f6B  
4Ants on the Moon
-
f5+  
5Computer Says No Left-hand
-
f6A+ 1
6Computer Says No
-
f7A+ 1
7Sub Roccf6C **2
 Hairpin Boulder 
9Stray Bullit
-
f6C 12
10Bullittf7A *12
11Jelly Bomb
-
f7C * 
12Jump Before You Lookf6B+ **30
13Crash Test Left-HandV5 4
14Crash Testf6A+ **138
15Vanishing Pointf6C **12
16Hairpin Scoopf4+ *122
17Hairpin ArÍte Leftf4 45
18Hairpin ArÍtef5 *116
19Flake ProblemV0- 40
20Hairpin CleftVB 27
21Tourist PathVB 30
22Square GrooveV0+ 6
23Round MantelV0 4
 Hidden Buttress 
25Isla GraceE6 6c 9
26Easter FoolE2 5c  
27Gyron GrooveHVS 5a *1
28Hot KnivesE4 6b * 
29RomanceHVS 5b  
30CavatinaE3 6a  
31The lliadVS 4c  
 The Boat 
33Christmasf5+ 1
34Boat Wallf4 5
35The Cabinf4+ 4
36Z Crack
-
S 4c 11
37Z Crack Wallf5 2
38Tom and Elsief5+ 2
 The Barrel 
40Barrel Organistf7A 2
41Glorious Gritstone Mantelshelff7A+  
42Avoiding the Treetorsf6A  
 Krypton Buttress 
4417 Year ItchE1 6a 1
4517 Year Itch ChimneyHVD  
46Slope CrackHVD 4a 2
47Hide and SeekE1 5c 1
48MastermindE4 6a *5
49Krypton FactorE4 5c **1
50The SlabVS 4c 10
51Brush Up
-
VS 4c 4
52Two Pebble SlabE1 5c *28
53Nine Pebble SlabE6 6c  
54BrainflowerV3  
 Downes' Buttress 
56Black WallHVS 5a 1
57Biscuits for Cheese
-
V5  
58Box of FrogsV6  
59Lake of Flakes
-
V5  
60Armadillo Pillow
-
V4  
61V EarV2 1
62The Trees' Knees
-
V4  
63Matchbox ArÍte
-
f6A+  
64Slipper SlabHVS 5a *11
65Gripper GrabV2  
66Glass Slipperf7A+ **26
67Glass Slipper Sit-Start
-
f7A+ 1
68Morty's CornerHVS 5a *9
69Downes' CrackVS 5a *78
70Downes' Crimpsf6B 3
71Pillar Wall
-
D 3
72Retro Crack
-
VS 4c 1
73Retro Crack Right-Hand Groove
-
HD  
74Retro crack Far Right-Hand ArÍte
-
HVD 4b  
75Retro Crack Far Right-Hand Groove
-
VD  
76Froggattmania
-
E1 5c  
77Chin Mania
-
f7A+  
78Chin Grinder
-
E6 6c * 
79Just CrackHS 4a 4
80JacobHVS 5b 3
81HibernationE5 6a **1
82Esau
-
E3 6a *3
83Esau Direct Start
-
E3 5c  
84FirecrackerE7 6b * 
85FirelighterV1  
86Backseat NothingE2 5b  
87Cud U LikeE1 5a  
 Brookside Buttress Area 
89Vomer
-
E2 6a *1
90Vomer Harris
-
HS 5a 1
91Perfect MiniatureVS 4b 2
92Neb CrackVS 4c *46
93Dick Van Dyke Goes BallisticE7 6b *1
94Indoor FishermanE4 6a ***106
95Ghost of the BrookE4 6a  
96Crooked StartHS 4b *167
97Crooked Start DirectVS 4c *45
98Tinsel's TangleS 4a *156
99Piledriver Direct Start
-
HVS 6a *1
100PiledriverHVS 5b *21
101Brookside CrackVD *72
102Slack Time
-
HS 4b 6
103Brookside Gully
-
D 7
104Fisherman's Friend
-
V4  
105Old King Cascadef7B+ **39
106Ol' Man Riverf7C *6
107Ladies' Wall
-
f7C 5
108Ladies Buttress
-
VD 6
109Ladies Buttress IndirectD 1
110Belly Dancer
-
E1 6a  
111Burnt Sienna
-
f6B  
112Kimb's Limbs
-
f7A+  
113Carry on Screaming
-
f6B+ 2
114Les Grands Doigts
-
f7C 8
115Bad Landing Crack
-
f6A+  
116Flipworker
-
f6A 1
117Flipper
-
V3  
118Chooch
-
V1  
119Smooch
-
V0 1
120Rowan
-
f6A+  
121Yorkshire Kipper
-
V1  
122Yorkshire Flipper
-
V3  
123Flipside
-
V0  
 Renegade Buttress 
125Renegade Bulge
-
f6C 10
126Bulge Right-Hand
-
f6C+ 6
127Staircase
-
V0- 6
128Stoke Hall ArÍte
-
V1 1
129Fair Flora
-
V0 2
130Fair Flora Right-Hand ArÍte
-
V0- 2
131Screaming DreamE7 6c ** 
132Renegade Masterf7C+ **9
133Dave's Dyno
-
f7C 1
134Thuggy Bearf7A+ ***5
135Freckles
-
V2  
136The Famous Chris EllisE4 6a 2
 The Tombstone 
138Tombstone Groove
-
f4+ 7
139Shallow Groovef6A 20
140Shallow Gravef7B *1
141Tombstonef7A+ *30
142Tombstone ArÍte
-
f5+ 30
 The Fish 
144Misplaced Childhood
-
V2 1
 The Loaf 
146Toasted
-
f6B 13
147Hot Butter Knives
-
f7A 15
148Stottie
-
f7B 3
149The Captainf7A ***5
 The Frog 
151Froggit
-
f5 3
152Kermit's Finger
-
f6A 1
 The Gully Area 
154Slanting Flake TraverseVB 9
155Gully Dyno
-
f6C 6
156Fiddler's ArÍte
-
f6C 4
157Fiddler's ArÍte Rockover
-
V0- 5
 Ape Drape 
159Debut Wall
-
HVS 5b  
160Debutante
-
HVS 5a  
161Monkey Man
-
f7B+ **1
162Ape Drape
-
f6C+ ***89
163Ape Drape Direct Finish
-
f7A+ ***4
 Strapiombo Buttress 
165StrapathyroidV1 1
166StrapiombanteE1 5b **1131
167StrapadictomyE5 6b ***188
168Cockchafer
-
E5 6b  
169Cock RobinE6 7a *3
170StrappotenteE7 7a * 
171StrapiomboE1 5b **274
172HaarowE6 6c * 
173English OverhangVS 4c *66
174Scarper's TriangleE2 5b *77
175Broken Heart
-
E2 5c 3
176ScarperedVS 4c 11
177Oss NobE4 6a 4
178Left Flake CrackS 4a 164
179Le Diabolique Chien Noir
-
E1 5b 1
180Right Flake CrackHS 4b 58
181Parallel PipedE3 5c *147
182Benign LivesE7 6b **22
183MildE4 6b 6
184Mild Side
-
V0+ 13
185Mild Side A
-
V0- 5
186Mild Side B
-
V0- 4
187Slim Pickings
-
V0- 1
188Historically InsignificantE3 6a 1
189Puddy Tat
-
V4 1
190Pussy Cat
-
V0- 1
191Tom Katz
-
V2 1
192Geordie Ewoks
-
E6 6c ** 
193Gentlefish
-
E4 6a 3
194Chockstone CrackHS 4b *68
195C.H.M.S. 1
-
VS 4b 38
196Butch
-
V2 1
197Pig Heart Boy
-
f7B **12
198Leggit
-
f6B **58
199The Nose
-
V0+ 2
 Sunset Boulders 
201Bottoms Upf4 2
202Scurryf5+ 3
203Daylight Grubberyf6B 3
204Goodnight Tigerf5 3
205Holy Greenf7A 1
206Morning Woodf6B 1
207Splattacakef6A+ ** 
208Rampagef7A ** 
209Dreamboatf7A **4
210Breezef6A+  
211Cheesef5+  
212Easef4 4
213Teddybear's Pinicf6C **3
214Big Surprisef5 2
215Big Surprise Sit-Start
-
f7A  
216Eat Your Greensf6A+  
217Nobody Nosef6C  
218Emerald Aislef7A ** 
219Wolfensteinf5+  
220White Lycanf6A+  
221White Lycan Sit-Startf7B  
222The Other Half Has Hairy Legsf6C  
 Sunset Slab 
224Science FrictionE6 6a *37
225Fatal AttractionE5 6a 4
226North ClimbHVD 4a *1083
227What's Up Doc?E2 5a 110
228Sunset Slab Direct StartVS 4b **48
229Sunset SlabHVS 4b ***2712
230SundownerE2 5a *678
231Sunset CrackHS 4b **3276
232Turret CrackHS 4b 581
233Slab and CrackD *568
 Hawk's Nest Crack 
235Ramp-ArtE5 6a  
236Soul DoubtE8 6c **4
237Beau GesteE7 6c ***2
238Epiphany Left-handE6 6b **4
239Holly GrooveVS 4c *472
240Hawk's Nest CrackVS 4c ***1188
241Horizontal PlacesE5 6b *2
242Cave Crack IndirectHVS 5a *16
243Rambeauf7B **28
244Cave CrackE3 5c **101
245Cave CrawlHS 5a **375
246Cave WallE3 5c ***67
247Beau BrummellE4 6a *1
248Swimmer's ChimneyS 4a *169
 Terrace Crack 
250BrightsideE2 5c **306
251Better Dead Than SmegE6 6c * 
252Greedy PigE5 6b *7
253AvalancheE2 6a *31
254SkogulS 4a 89
255Mean StreakE6 6b *7
256The Gully JokeE3 5c *68
257Terrace CrackHS 4b **1532
258Sandy GullyD 22
259BudE7 6c *1
260GerminationE5 6a *1
261March HareE1 6a 4
262Central GullyM 16
 Tody's Wall 
264Heather Wall VariantHVS 5a 29
265NightshadeE3 5c 2
266Kanji ClassE3 6a * 
267C.M.C. SlabHVS 5b *574
268Heather WallHVD 3c ***3537
269GripE2 5b *102
270RatbagE2 5b *317
271EquanimityE7 6c **1
272Tody's WallHVS 5a ***3406
273TodycadeE1 5a 22
274MotorcadeE1 5a **774
275Silver CrackHS 4b *521
276Silver LiningE5 5c *43
277Silver TraverseHVD 4a *43
278Origin of SpeciesE5 6a *24
279Bollard CrackVS 4c *348
280Georgie Porgief7A 1
281Roman OrgyE4 6b *2
282Heather Groove
-
HS 4b 78
283Stealing the Misanthrope's PurseHVS 5a 6
284Rose Apple
-
V1 1
285Snow White
-
V0 1
 Three Pebble Slab 
287Soft OptionD 512
288TopomaniaHS 4a 26
289Two-sided TriangleHVS 5b *577
290Three Pebble SlabHVS 5a ***3296
291Four Pebble SlabE3 5c *380
292Grey SlabS 4b *578
293Nanoq SlabE1 5b 94
 Tody's Playgound 
295Hot Toddyf7A ***9
296Tree Wall
-
f5 *210
297The EyesV3 **81
298The Eyes Directf7A *4
299Tody's Pocket
-
f4+ **248
300Thin wall
-
f6A **161
301Tody Boy
-
f5+ *157
302Tody Bear
-
f5 **176
303Tody's Right ArÍte
-
V0 *39
 Turd Burglar Block 
305Heather in My FaceE1 5b 12
306Turd BurglarE6 6b *3
307Oz BoundE9 7a * 
308Dogs Die in Hot CarsE6 7a *3
309My OrangeE6 6c ** 
310The Sound of One Foot Slippingf7A+ *1
311Pea Crab Shuffle
-
f7C *6
312Jetpack
-
f7B *14
313Jetpack Left-Handf7A *7
314Jetpack (Easy)f7A *8
315Scandalous
-
f7B  
316Gibsonitus
-
f7B *1
317The Green 45
-
f7A 1
 The Pinnacle 
319ValkyrieHVS 5a ***1625
320Valkyrie Direct
-
HVS 5b 12
321Narcissus IIE5 6b *1
322Pinnacle Traversef7A+ *7
323Neon Dustf7C+ *4
324Neon Dust Direct
-
f7C+ * 
325NarcissusE6 6b ***45
326Keeping the Ratio HighE6 6c *** 
327Glamourpuss
-
f6C+ 6
328Oedipus Direct
-
f6B+ **131
329Mint 400 Direct
-
f7B+ *5
330Oedipus Traverse
-
f6B ***123
331Oedipus Ring Your MotherE4 6b **135
332The Mint 400E6 6c **10
333Pinnacle ArÍteE2 5b *37
334BirthdayE3 6a * 
335Reverse DiscoE2 5c  
336Fame at LastHVS 5b 1
337Chapman's CrackVS 4c *44
338Route OneVS 5a *47
339Pinnacle FaceVS 5b *27
340My NewtE1 5b  
341Trewlee OribleVD 4
342Truly PatheticHVS 5c 14
343Cubic ZirconiaE3 6b *1
344Diamond CrackHS 4b **1471
345Corner CrackVD 204
 Sickle Buttress 
347Left BrokenVS 5a *47
348Broken CrackVS 5a **761
349Sickle Buttress DirectVS 4c *861
350Sickle ButtressS 4a *894
351Sickle Buttress ArÍteVS 5a 18
352Performing FleaHVS 5a *144
353Flake Climb (Original)HVD 5
354Flake Climb
-
VS 4c 6
355Tree SurvivorE3 6a *5
356SorrallionVD 49
357Short not SweetE2 5c  
358Congestion CrackHS 4c *350
 Pinnacle Boulders 
360Baby Bearf4 54
361Areet (Left)
-
f4 63
362Areet (Right)
-
f5 64
363Starter Motor
-
f5 59
364Pick Pocket
-
f4+ 104
365The Northernerf5+ **57
366Teddyf3+ 74
367Pooh Bearf3 *75
368Bear Poof3 64
369Rupert Bearf2+ 18
370Bare Rupertf2+ 19
371Where?f2 13
372Flatulence
-
f4+ 77
373Air Bear
-
f4+ 134
374Mini Mantel
-
f3+ 111
375Care Bear
-
f4+ 45
376Mantelicious
-
f6B *49
377Naughtyf4+ 102
378The Broken Chairf6B 2
379Groovyf5 67
380Rib Tickler
-
f4+ 81
381Come Togetherf3+ 65
382Nasal Passage
-
f4+ *40
383Ledgeway
-
f5+ 25
384The Teddy Bear's Picnic
-
f6B+ 1
 Downhill Racer 
386Long John's Left-HandE6 6c * 
387Long John's SlabE3 5c **588
388Direct Start to Downhill Racer
-
f7A+ *20
389Downhill RacerE4 6a ***209
390Downhill Racer StartV2 *12
391Uphill DriverE1 5b 8
392Slab Recess DirectHS 4c *1866
393Joe's ArÍtef6B *304
394Thin Slabf7A+ *3
395Mono Seamf6C+ *24
396Mono Seam Right-Handf7A 1
397Joe's Slab/Joe's Direct Startf5+ ***742
398Slab Popf6C *82
399Joe's Slab Traversef7A **11
400Slab RecessD **1668
401GammaVD 1623
402Allen's SlabS 4a **1574
403Polyp PieceE7 6c * 
404SwingE1 5a 41
405Trapeze DirectVS 4c *2095
406TrapezeVD **1358
407AlphaHVS 5b 34
408Nursery SlabM 787
 Great Slab 
410Heartless HareE5 5c **171
411Jugged HareE6 6a *11
412Lonely HeartE9 6c * 
413Great SlabE3 5b ***360
414Art BrutE7 6b * 
415Hairless HeartE5 5c ***102
416Hairy HeartE6 6a *12
417ArtlessE5 6b **92
418Artless/Hairless HeartE5 6b *** 
419Toy Boyf7C+ * 
420SynopsisE2 5c **296
421Parting HareE3 5c * 
422BetaVD 317
423Spine ChillerE4 5c *3
424Spine Chiller Start
-
f6B+ **14
425Spinal Crackf5+ *18
426Spinal Tapf6C+ **15
427Lankaster Bomberf7C  
428Chiller Wall
-
f6B *2
429Nutty LandE1 5c *30
430Flake GullyVD *264
 Brown's Eliminate 
432Straight and NarrowE3 5c **28
433Brown's Eliminate DirectE3 5c **122
434ArmageddonE3 5c *101
435Brown's EliminateE2 5b ***1171
436Green GutHS 4a ***2518
437Pedestal CrackHVS 5a **937
438Slide ShowE6 6c * 
439Slingshotf8A *4
440Blind VisionE9 7a ** 
441Chequers Groovef7C+ *1
442Paranoid AndroidE3 5c 5
443The Big CrackE2 5b ***386
444Hard CheddarE5 6b *10
445Circus / Hard CheddarE7 6b *6
446Stiff CheeseE2 5c *63
447Beech NutE1 5c 80
448Chequers CrackHVS 5c **742
449Business Lunchf7C *5
450Sole Powerf7C ***23
451Our Solesf7C  
452Spock's MissingE5 6b *11
 Chequers Buttress 
454Chequers ButtressHVS 5a ***2481
455Chequers ClimbVS 4c **151
456Bacteria CafeteriaE1 5b *96
457Wok PowerE3 6a * 
458Solomon's CrackVD *555
459Solomon's Crack VariationS 4a 105
460Janker's CrackHS 4b *546
461Janker's GrooveVS 4c *375
462The Whillans DirectV3 17
463Janker's EndVS 4c *161
464Janker's RampHVS 4c *3
465The Last DanceS 4b 7
 Traverses 
467The Valkyrie Girdle TraverseHVS 5b  
468The System (Oread's Girdle)E3 5b  

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