Rockfax Description
The awkward undercut crack has enough runners to make up for the previous two offerings! The initial bulge is the crux and the route has its fair share of sloping holds but, on the whole, it is pretty friendly at the grade. © Rockfax
FA. Len Chapman 1948.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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catt | 15 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: The bulge is easy, big footholds and good smears, very well protected, and straight of the ground. I reckon easy 4b for anyone looking at their feet. the rest is about vdiff/s with gear anywhere you want it. This should get S 4b. Never 4c and definitely not HS. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The bulge is easy, big footholds and good smears, very well protected, and straight of the ground. I reckon easy 4b for anyone looking at their feet. the rest is about vdiff/s with gear anywhere you want it. This should get S 4b. Never 4c and definitely not HS. |
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Cardi | 24 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Quite easy for the grade I thought, seconded without slipping in hiking boots. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite easy for the grade I thought, seconded without slipping in hiking boots. |
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Mutl3y | 7 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: No way in this world is there a 4c move anywhere on this crack. My seconder, who was a lead-climbing virgin seriously considered this one as her first candidate. I've been up Diffs that required more technical skills. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: No way in this world is there a 4c move anywhere on this crack. My seconder, who was a lead-climbing virgin seriously considered this one as her first candidate. I've been up Diffs that required more technical skills. |
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mwh | 1 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: When seconding this I did the start on jams and smears staying very close to the crack and thought it was about 4c -- but certainly didn't think this was the easiest approach! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: When seconding this I did the start on jams and smears staying very close to the crack and thought it was about 4c -- but certainly didn't think this was the easiest approach! |
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Si dH | 25 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Protection os not difficult, and this definitely isn't 4c or VS (only just HS) IMHO. Moves over the initial bulge and at half-height are both maybe 4b but only just. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Protection os not difficult, and this definitely isn't 4c or VS (only just HS) IMHO. Moves over the initial bulge and at half-height are both maybe 4b but only just. |
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Dale Berry | 29 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: I agree with Swirly about the dificulties in overcomming the bulge, but think the initial crack is a lot harder to protect than it looks (and judging by the wear on the first good wire placement at the start of the upper, much easier, section, so do other people too). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I agree with Swirly about the dificulties in overcomming the bulge, but think the initial crack is a lot harder to protect than it looks (and judging by the wear on the first good wire placement at the start of the upper, much easier, section, so do other people too). |
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Swirly | 10 Dec, 2003 |
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βeta: Done this a few times now, IMHO a good mid-grade HS very protectable and I don't agree with 4c for the move over the bulge, there's pockets and smears aplenty. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Done this a few times now, IMHO a good mid-grade HS very protectable and I don't agree with 4c for the move over the bulge, there's pockets and smears aplenty. |
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Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: A great route where you can play a silly game, How many nuts can the leader place in the crack 1 set 2 sets? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great route where you can play a silly game, How many nuts can the leader place in the crack 1 set 2 sets? |
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Paul Boardman | 17 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: I soloed it too. I thought there were a couple of moves on it to be honest. Interesting. Harder than some VSs? Well, there are plenty of HSs out there that qualify for that tag! I think HS is a good grade for this one, lots of protection (well, it looked like it anyway ;-) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I soloed it too. I thought there were a couple of moves on it to be honest. Interesting. Harder than some VSs? Well, there are plenty of HSs out there that qualify for that tag! I think HS is a good grade for this one, lots of protection (well, it looked like it anyway ;-) |
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Mark Stevenson | 10 May, 2002 |
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βeta: Soloed it. To be honest, was harder than some VSs with the sloping holds - 4c seemed very fair. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Soloed it. To be honest, was harder than some VSs with the sloping holds - 4c seemed very fair. |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Curbar Edge)