A classic jamming crack that is a bit of a battle with a useful chockstone en-route where knees are usual. From the ledge finish over the exposed jutting flake on the left for an airy thrill. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1948
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Revenge List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Chatsworth to Bamford.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Calum Wadsworth||03/Oct||Lead O/S||
2nd hardest VS I've ever done! Green Crack at Ramshaw being the undisputed number 1. Fantastic route!
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||04/Sep||2nd||
Felt tougher than when I last did it. The cliff must have slipped!!
could have broken my arm when a twisty torqued hand/wrist jam thing got stuck, preventing me from moving up or down and my toes were barely on the edge of the chockstone... glad I didn't blow it, it was really painful!
Got it first time today, having kept falling off it last time at Froggatt
Start is the hardest bit in all honesty, though I was getting eaten alive by midges. Good climb with plenty of gear, getting onto the hanging flake at the top is pretty awesome.
Tried to lead but kept coming off. Need to get better at jamming.
Was my first climb at Froggatt more than a year ago and I pumped out just below the chock stone. Returned to finish it off, a brilliant little route (if you can jam).
|Neal Jobling||23/Jun||Lead O/S||
|nick ferro||21/Jun||2nd O/S||
|joe hallam||18/Jun||Lead dog|
|Andy Chubb||11/Jun||Lead O/S||
Fell just below chock stone. Lowered down for a rest then did it clean, albeit with lots of stupid flapping because there's loads of bomber protection throughout.
Awesome route, must have left a good bit of my right arm in the lower crack but definitely worth doing!
|Antonio Ferra||?/Jun||Lead O/S||
in the rain
First proper jamming route, swallowed all my rack, fantastic flake finish!
Lovely classic VS gritstone crack
Really good climbing, done with a bit of wide udging low down, and some nice hand jams at the top.
Awkward. But no knee used!
|Hardcore Pat||06/Apr||Lead O/S||
Dr Julie, Denny
slight slip on the first section
|adi bryant||14/Mar||Lead O/S|
ffs, fluffed it lower down whilst fumbling a cam in, then did the move no problem second go. Still a good one to practice your jamming, they're sinkers; the flake finish is nice. Also a bit of a sandbag.
|mapperley samurai||09/Nov/14||Lead rpt||
With flake finish. Ace.
Ricardo Da Silva
Lovely all of the way, with no real difficulties
Good jamming low down, not that awkward really.
|George Frisby||25/Oct/14||2nd dog|
Testing start, though a worth while struggle for the exposed finish
Good arm bar at in the lower section.
Fell off 4 years ago and landed on my head (was wearing a helmet). It's difficult in the lower section. Glad to have it ticked off.
|Luke Jones||13/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
|Dan Vaj||13/Sep/14||Lead RP||
Dan Vaj, Matt Payne
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||05/Sep/14||Lead rpt|
Piggish - especially the 1st move.
Steve Cunnington, Graham Parkes
My second VS lead
|Alex 74||29/Jul/14||2nd rpt||
David, Anna jennings, Phil Jennings
Keep thrutching . It's worth it for the finish
Steve S, Beth
A classic struggle. Finish is fun.
Gary and Holly Wood
|sara n||05/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
|Jack Loftus||30/Jun/14||2nd O/S|
it starts of as a slighty overhanging hand jam that can be protected before reaching the crux of trying to get around the roof. after that it is a fun crack climb before reaching the epic flake which you traverse out on with nothing below you then just climb on to it to reach the top.
|Giles Davis||22/Jun/14||2nd dog||
|Rob Laird||22/Jun/14||Lead dog||
Struggled on the lower section, but a good climb
|Jack Whiteley||05/Jun/14||2nd O/S||
Attempted bottom section as a layback. Mistake! When attempting to get back in the crack hand slipped out and fell. But got back in and finished it.
Got spanked by the start. Lowered and did it clean.
pretty awkward cool exposed finish!
Didn't read the guide properly so forgot the flake finish.
|Wendy Watthews||04/Apr/14||2nd O/S|
Awkward and satisfying- don't miss the hanging flake finish
|Big Lee||08/Mar/14||Lead dog||
Needed a rest below the chock stone. Tough route. Jamming skills found wanting.
Dave Rich, Mark Philipson
A great 'proper' VS, lots of rests and solid gear. Lovely finish over the flake.
|Martin Bagshaw||01/Nov/13||2nd O/S||
|Duck Egg||07/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
Brilliant, brutal and satisfying.
Satoshi Kimura, TimKnight
|Phill Mitch||01/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
Real struggle getting up to the chockstone, has a little slip but held it. Second half much easier but still requiring jams. Really nice finish over the flake.
Excellent climb, very well protected, and quite big by Froggatt standards.
Stve mc D
Thrutchy weird start, but nice latter section. Nice
mackie, paul renwick
|mapperley samurai||08/Aug/13||Lead dog||
Totally underestimated it. Probably not the best warm up route. When I'd figured out I was avoiding jamming in the lower section and did so much easier. I nice reminder I needed to go back to jamming school. An excellent, varied crack climb and the flake finish caps it off nicely with a bit of exposure.
Gavin Pownall, David Alcock
Gavin, mapperley samurai
Fun route. Getting off the deck is as hard as any of the rest of it. Top section looks hard and intimidating, but is extremely well protected and much easier than it first appears.
Second trad lead. First trad fall. David is an arsehole.
|Jules Lane||04/Jul/13||Lead O/S||
Did Flake finish - great !
|Andy Hardy||04/Jul/13||2nd rpt|
Brilliant route - the start feels tough at the grade although the gear is bomber and hand jams are as good as they come. Then the finish is steady but in a great exposed position.
Mark B, Ross
Tough for VS. Foot slipped on a polished foothold in the crack at one point but bomber jams held.
James Lawson, Max Pendleton
|Dan Vaj||16/Jun/13||Lead dog|
Solly Kemball Dorey, Dave Hall
awkward start eases off to a very rewarding finish
Felt considerably easier this time. I must now have some jamming ability. Superb route.
|Jimbo C||19/May/13||Lead O/S||
Sustained, pumpy and awkward, and very enjoyable. The flake finish is well worth it for the thrill.
|john lynch||12/May/13||Lead O/S||
|Rich Malcolm||05/May/13||Lead O/S||
|alaster tonge||21/Apr/13||Lead dnf||
Not today, thank you
To retrieve gear after leading 3/4 up and giving up the battle
|Neil R||20/Apr/13||2nd β|
Hard work getting off the ground for this one. Had to practice my udge-ing technique which improved massively once I;d had all my gear taken off the right side of my harness and replaced on the left.
At least it was easier than the route description. As lovely as I remembered it from before.
turned into a thrutch low down.
Tough rewarding struggle.
Okay climb I'll give it 3 stars if only for the flake finish.
Dan limped up the lower middle section with some difficulty, and on the second I could see why. Some rough jamming, and a few reaches where it was probably helpful to have longer arms. After the step out left, however, things got both easier and more fun; the juggy flake finish is a must do.
kev gibbs, rich brown
|Ian Hylands||??/2013||Lead O/S||
|Phil Layton||18/Nov/12||Lead O/S||
with the exposed finish
|Tom Packer||18/Nov/12||Lead O/S|
|Paul Hy||08/Nov/12||Lead dnf||
I'll be back!!
Really good fun climb. Didn't use a knee! Finished up the flake.
with Owen and Durand, bit hard for their first climb outdoors, but all the easy ones were taken!
|Pete Pozman||09/Oct/12||2nd rpt||
John Byrne, Pete Crosby
|Sam Husband||07/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
Very awkward but enjoyable, the finish over the pinnacle is nice and atmospheric.
Nice route. good honest hardwork is rewarded with the airy finish. Quality
|James Oswald||03/Oct/12||2nd O/S||
|Will Gordon||16/Sep/12||Lead O/S|
|Haydn Jones||16/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
3 star! i did jamming!!
|Dr Toph||07/Sep/12||Solo O/S||
need jamming practice!
well within my capabilities to lead!
Finally finished this on my third visit. It was still a struggle, but the difference was in being able to jam now. Pretty vital to get out of the initial crack. Hard for VS if you can't jam.
Pete B, Dave m
The "bonus" finish is well worth it!
Climbed up to the crux, got too pumped. Managed to reverse to the ground. Jack tried it but had the same problem. Was too hard really of my first day back climbing but couldn't be arsed to go up and set an absail up to strip the gear so gave it one more go. Managed to get slightly higher, mid crux but just got zapped of energy so had to rest on the gear for a couple of minutes. Got it afterwards. Didn't have to use any knees so maybe get a few points back??
not actually this route traverse delicatly right at half hieght Apparently hvs 5b more like e1
A little midgey
with some colourful language...
Jack Williams, Nathan Magnall
|Matt Harmon||16/May/12||Lead O/S|
Would not have done this one if I wasn't deliberately trying to improve my jamming technique. Found this an awkward struggle....a good route though and probably awesome if I was indeed better at jamming!
Lee Parsons, Masa
Chris G, Lee P
Had my first lead fall/slump onto a massive bomber hex first go, lowered off, back on and did it clean. Found the first crack really tough (hands too small for the jams), then the upper wall and flake were absolutely gorgeous in contrast! First try at a VS 4c.
|Stone Muppet||12/May/12||Lead O/S||
quality route, jammed pretty much the whole way up to the chock, the offwidth has jams in the back initially and then over the top. not high in the 4c grade but lots of it makes it high in the grade vs!
Very messy start with an awkward leg jam
|Tony Holdsworth||28/Mar/12||Lead rpt||
Lydia and Will
|Mr. K||25/Mar/12||Lead rpt|
|Neil R||20/Mar/12||2nd O/S|
Chris's second trad lead (after a long break) and he really enjoyed it... I, on the other hand, thought it was a bit of a pig. Wedged myself in at every available opportunity, very thructchy start that improves as you go higher, with the redeeming final exposed finish that brings a smile to your face after the torrid struggle below. Good lead Chris!
Ade, Murray Galagher
What a struggle!
|david morse||13/Feb/12||Lead rpt||
Natalia Male Alcalde
Luke's first attempt of VS lead. He took a short fall, but the rest was fine.
Back a year later to not finish it again.
|Jake Young||19/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
Wow! Probably best climb todate! With a variety of factors: jamming in early sections to chock stone - using plenty of cams and hexes (one used one size too big gave great difficulty in removing and had to ab down) - after chock stone eased on left before final nice layback with lovely finger flake and final jug hold - The finsh via the upper Flake was exquisite - horizontal nut (?#6) placed in break - pushed in from right gave 100% seat as prved hard to remove and had to ab down for this one too! Short traverse out to left (over thin air!) before fingery clmb up to flake and over to top roof! Lovely!
The upper section provided some good exposure but thrutching up the lower cracks did not make for an enjoyable climb
|Dan Leach||02/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
|Matt Cooke||24/Sep/11||2nd O/S|
|Dan Geh||15/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
|David Kay||21/Aug/11||Lead O/S|
the flake finish is the best thing ever
|Dan Lane||17/Aug/11||Lead RP||
Ground-up. Fell off just below the chockstone when my jam slid out of the damp crack. clean the next go.
Ruth Taylor, Andy Turner
Second (wife) hated it. Was a battle to the top. Had to abb down for a jammed hex.
|Andrew Cross||26/Jul/11||2nd O/S||
Finished over the left-hand flake for the full effect - an awesome alternative finish
Jim Reid, Stephen Lumb
Want to try as a lead next time around
|Alex 74||12/Jul/11||Lead rpt||
Climbed first quarter of it felt pumped, lowered off piece then removed all gear. Went back after a rest and it went clean.
Looks innocuous but is actually an unpleasant grovel! Difficult move to the chock stone.
Fell off just before the chockstone. Bad warm up route
An outstanding route! Great lead by Ally, can't wait to get back on it and lead it myself. Worthy of it's stars!
Did also the thrilling lefthand finish over the flake
Len had an epic. We were on it for and hour and half. I went up for him and put some protection in higher and made him finish his lead! The end flake is fantastic!!!
Revenge is sweet :o)
Good jamming practice!
Horrible route but did do the dramatic finish in glorious sunshine
feet slipped out from under me but fist jam held solid!
|Jonathan Hall||16/Apr/11||2nd rpt|
Lay-backed initial part, nice climb with a nice finish and decent jam.
Lethal route. Not joking in guidebook saying "awkward" the starting move from the offwidth to the chock stone i fought with and slipped down a bit more than a few times. then as frustrated then managed to trap foot while jamming it. Had to hang on rope to take weight off and even then took few attempts to free... calm would definately have paid. Ended up pulling up hand over hand on rope to pass the crux. Nice sequence above and beautiful flake to top out over, thats where the atmosphere rather than the fight really took over.
|Liam Bateman||27/Mar/11||2nd O/S||
Wayne Murphy, Alan Mountford
Bit too hot for jamming. Some nice moves but the crux felt hard for 4c.
|Becky E||20/Mar/11||2nd O/S|
|Graeme Hammond||20/Mar/11||Lead rpt||
wanted to repeat this climb for a while, still thought it was quite tough for VS, but not quite the battle it was 5 years ago!
Euan Strachan, Joe Garratt
|Guy Atkinson||18/Mar/11||2nd O/S||
I didn't use my knee on the chockstone... do I win?
Chris Swift, Ben Silvestre
All over the place, had a massive hangover - had to have a sleep at the top.
Nice climb. I found an easier way of climbing the section 2/3 of the way up, whereas my partner (who led it) climbed it as a pure crack and that looked very scary!
hard for VS, nice jamming though
Quality route for sure.
Oh dear! The one where Bird decked but got away with a scratch on the back of his head and a huge shot of adrenaline. Lessons were learnt on this climb - the main one being: if you have a helmet, don't lend it to a friend who will then leave it at their house instead of bringing it out to the crag next time they go to meet you.
Chris S, Ben, Bird
my favourite route of the day, brilliant!
|andy dunn||17/Oct/10||Lead β||
got it 2nd time around (ground-up) after slipping out of the lower crack. Gotta get more jamming practice.
payback after sitting on gear at crux last visit. still v strenuous jamming sequence over bulge to reach chock. great climb thereafter . finished on exposed flake . one of the best VS routes ive done .AWESOME !!!
Ok, so I need to learn how to jam.
Tricky first bit. Lovely finish
The perfect hangover cure.
|Bobby Gilbert||22/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
first proper handjamming climb. nice finish
A struggle. Downclimbed/lowered off the first crack as too pumped. Got back on and struggled to the top.
Seconded 3 years ago. Udgery followed by a lovely exposed finish on the flake.
|Lumbering Oaf||03/Jul/10||Lead rpt||
Seconded this a while back, found the lead a little tricky but the climb is a lot of fun and has a great finish! Bottom moves make this climb a hard 4c!
|Onion magnet||23/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
Really good climb, took several minutes to work out the crux but plane sailing from there. Finished over the flake for the classic tick.
|Mr. K||20/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
found initial crack hard ,got pumped down climbed ,rested ,climbed back up to high point tried to pull over bulge to access chock and popped. sat on gear then finished route.strenuous. as hard as pedestal crack (hvs)i thought.after chock climb eases still fun tho .flake to finish a must
|Scott McRae||23/May/10||2nd rpt||
Fantastic jamming and good pro.
|metal arms||16/May/10||Lead O/S|
First fall, will definitely have to go back and finish it.
After doing The File the same weekend this felt pretty straight forward. Not as awkward as expected either.
About as good as it gets
First hand jam crack. If fist and hand jams are not your thing you might not enjoy this as much as you could.
|Owen W-G||23/Apr/10||Lead β||
Bloody hard for VS. I thought it was onsight but have since discovered that I had seconded it 2007, so file under retroflash.
|Fergus Cuthill||14/Apr/10||2nd O/S|
Bit of a fight but similar to others at the grade, I think this is just a weakness of mine.
Had to sit on a cam to pull out a very poorly placed cam3
|Alex Thompson||28/Mar/10||Lead rpt||
Chris attempted the lead, but slumped on gear, ropes pulled and left me to finish it off.
Awesome exposed flake finish is one of those proper "this is why we climb" moments. So good!!
Relatively free of snow...
|bigie bob||31/Oct/09||Solo O/S|
|Pete Horn||31/Oct/09||2nd O/S||
|Dave Foster||18/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
Good, tough re-introduction after a three week break.
Rachel Slater, Jack Metcalfe
|3 Names||03/Oct/09||Lead O/S|
An effort at the start, but nice the rest of the way. I m,ade the mistake of finishing on the platform ledge, and missed the nice finish via the flake, which is apparently the only nice part of the climb.
Pretty annoyed to fall on this, very possible in a oner
|Alex Winter||01/Sep/09||2nd O/S||
J. Iles-Smith, C. Prescott
Alex Winter, Chris Prescot
Foot slipped, hand held.
|Si dH||02/Aug/09||Lead rpt||
graham and Jon
My eyes were bigger than my jams on this one - started out on lead but couldn't get up to the chockstone. Managed fine on second though. A very grit experience.
|v man||13/Jun/09||Lead O/S|
Managed to get two bits of gear (a nut and a hex) stuck in the first crack by falling on them repeatedly. Abseiled down for them but couldn't get them out. Was going to give them up as lost until a passing climber volunteered to have a go. He ended up bashing them out of the cliff with a large rock! I owe that guy a pint.
did not start. Rich fell out repeatedly then had to ab for gear.
|Martin Brierley||23/May/09||Lead dog||
The start felt like a bit of a battle, wasted too much time putting in a hex and should have gone straight up. The rest was nice.
|Dr Caterpillar||02/May/09||Lead O/S|
|Chris Plewa||?/May/09||Lead O/S|
|martin one||25/Apr/09||Lead rpt||
|Fat Tim||19/Apr/09||Lead O/S|
Steve & Elsa
|shaun walby||18/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
|Phil West||18/Apr/09||2nd rpt||
Peter / Chris
|Adam Potter||05/Apr/09||Lead O/S|
Hard few moves low down then nice and steady, finish is awesome. Great route.
Great route, about as expected, move up the first offwidth with a bit of a thrutch, then had a bit of a wobbley move near the top of the initial crack, for some reason I moved onto the right side of the arete, cacked myself and moved back over onto the left and up. The rest was suprisingly easy, with a lovely jamming crack and big easy layback flake at the top in a very spectacular position! Don't believe I used any knees though!
|Tom Last||28/Feb/09||Lead O/S||
Lovely route, very easy jamming.
|Jim Slater||21/Feb/09||Lead rpt|
lowered off then had another go. The finish was great fun.
|andy jennings||??/2009||2nd β||
Absolute bitch, easy fun finish, worth doing
First Trad Lead
|rob wmc||28/Sep/08||Lead O/S||
Alan & Sarah
|Chris Sansum||20/Sep/08||Lead O/S||
Didn't read the guidebook, so didn't know about the flake finish option!
|Al Franks||29/Aug/08||Lead O/S|
Bottom was a shoulder eating offwidth body jamming thrutch. Finish over the top flake was airy and wonderful.
|John Brayshaw||08/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
|Powder Puff Girl||26/May/08||2nd O/S|
Felt *hard* just seconding it. Very glad I wimped out of leading it earlier that day. More jamming practice required!
|Guy Wilson||07/May/08||2nd O/S||
Gavin Moy, Pete Lancaster
|Johnny B Diggerman||07/May/08||2nd O/S||
Good climb hard work
|Alex Thompson||17/Mar/08||Lead O/S||
Chewed up me knuckles... nice!
hate jamming :0(
Very solid jamming which is all you can really do to stay on the wall till the chockstone, but absoultly loved it, especially finishing up the flake which wasn't as hard as i thought it was going to be
|Neil Pacey||09/Feb/08||Lead O/S||
Strenuous jamming felt quite hard for 4c
|Tanya Savage||09/Feb/08||2nd dog|
Some tough jamming, then forgot to do finishing moves,it was cold though, needs another ascent on a warmer, drier day.
|Dan 85||11/Nov/07||Lead O/S||
|Si dH||29/Sep/07||2nd rpt||
|Brian Rodgers||23/Sep/07||Lead O/S||
Still a 10/10
Heather Aston, Jack Whiting, Kev Gibbs
first vs lead
|Phil Jennings||24/Aug/07||Lead O/S|
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||24/Jul/07||2nd O/S||
Led this route in 2005. Really enjoyed it. Recommended it to Wendy and she managed it in solid style. Well protected. Consistent challenges all the way requiring many different grit techniques. The flake finish is great!
Great climb. Want to lead it!!!!
|craig matheson||?/Apr/07||Solo O/S|
|Byronius Maximus||31/Mar/07||Lead O/S|
|Guy Wilson||31/Mar/07||2nd O/S||
|John Pickles||24/Mar/07||Lead O/S|
Quite hard for VS, I thought
|dan gibson||03/Mar/07||Solo rpt|
|mat cooper||??/2007||Lead O/S|
|Rik Dawes||??/2007||Lead O/S|
|david morse||02/Dec/06||Lead dog||
|Graeme Hammond||05/Nov/06||Lead O/S|
|adam carless||03/Nov/06||Lead O/S||
I can't believe I hadn't done this one before, good quality jamming.
|Andy Clarke||15/Oct/06||Lead O/S||
|Andrew Sloan||24/Sep/06||2nd O/S|
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||06/May/06||Lead||
Forgot I did this 'till I found an old photo of me leading it.
|victim of mathematics||11/Mar/06||2nd O/S|
Definitely do the left hand flake finish, it is brilliant!!!
|Jon Greengrass||??/2006||Lead O/S|
|Simon Caldwell||17/Sep/05||Lead dnf|
|Simon Caldwell||17/Sep/05||TR O/S||
After backing off on lead. Of course it turned out I'd done the crux when I gave in, but was too intimidated to continue.
|Si dH||31/Jul/05||2nd rpt||
Little Old Lady
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||08/Aug/04||Solo O/S|
|Si dH||?/Jul/04||Lead O/S||
|Different Steve||?/Jul/04||Lead O/S||
in wet, tricky!
Took a whipper off the crux and nearly hit the ground!
Trace Quine, Joe
|Dave Mason||?/Jan/03||Lead O/S||
|Dave Bond||??/2003||Lead O/S||
|Tobias at Home||24/Nov/02||Lead dnf||
Romain, Graham Dolman
With the MMU club, not sure exactly when or who seconded.
Hard for VS.
|chris sm||14/Mar/98||2nd O/S||
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||24/Jan/98||2nd||
Do the great flake finish, puts the iceing on the top.
Barn doored at start of route & had to start again.
Diccon Proctor, Paul Nurse
Solid VS jamming
|Scott McRae||17/May/97||Lead O/S||
Seemed much harder than VS first time. Thrutchy crack. better technique second time made it seem much easier.
|Phil West||16/Mar/97||Lead O/S||
David Atherton & Steve Wild
|Ian Archer||13/May/95||2nd O/S||
|Charles Arthur||06/May/95||Lead O/S||
An early lead - must have been the May Bank Hol.
|J R R Hartley||?/Nov/87||2nd O/S||
|Carl Hamer||??/1987||2nd O/S|
Allen Aylesbury CC
MTW & Paul R
Betty Seifert, Dave Langmead
|Nic Robinson||20/Feb/82||2nd O/S||
Patrick Radford, Harry Woodford
|Derek Ryden||?/Oct/75||AltLd O/S||
Mick Papworth, Nona --?
first ascent date approximate. A regular solo until recently
Nigel Sumner, John Lee