Artless** E5 6b
[Heartless Hare with siderunners (so no E5 tick...), 2 kb]15m.

Rockfax Description
The right-trending ramp below the centre of the slab is gained awkwardly (if all else fails try a jump) and climbed via a hard dyno/slap or a harder rock-over. Move up and right to join and finish up Great Slab much more easily. © ROCKFAX

FA. John Allen (solo) 1976

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Heartless Hare with siderunners (so no E5 tick...) © chris j
View all 14 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 88 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

did dyno got onto the ramp but was slippy as a fish. and took a big ground fall
jacob shieldhouse hadley - Solo dnf - 03/Oct/15 with griffithpatrick

One tiny pad did not help in the slightest on the terrifying upper moves. So psyched!
MischaHY - Solo O/S - 01/Oct/15

harry_lewis - Sent x - 22/Sep/15 with Matt Ferrier, Shaun, Pete Briggs, Teappleby, Alex McCann

3rd go today. First after I got the right beta for the upper section.
Teappleby - Solo G/U - 22/Sep/15 with Harry Lewis, Hannah Richardson, Shaun Humphreys, Calum Wadsworth, Alex McCann, Pete Briggs, Matt Ferrier

Above 2 pads. Still felt like a solo.
amccann - Solo G/U - 25/May/15

Above pads.
Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 25/May/15 with speedy, Micki, Jake

Above two pads, best move is the one where you stand on a smear with no handholds then grab your foot and stick it on the high foothold while pigeons circle.
Jake Young - Solo G/U - 25/May/15 with Alex M, Nick

Hidden - TR RP - 05/Oct/14

Many pads, still got shakey. Not too hard with decent beta.
Matthew Ferrier - Sent x - 21/Sep/14 with Pete Briggs, Nick, Calum Wadsworth, Tom Appleby, Sam

couldn't get past the first hard rock over with the conditions like they were, might come though with less sun.
Teappleby - Solo dnf - 21/Sep/14 with Sam Ashworth, Nick Priestley, Calum Wadsworth, Pete Briggs, Matt Ferrier

Hidden - 2014

mike mo - 2nd - 2014

Ram MkiV - Sent rpt - 28/Dec/13 with noaks, Guy

onsight, thought it was great slab, where's the dyno? perhaps im too tall
admackie - Solo O/S - 19/Nov/13

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Solo O/S - Mar/13 with Jill Whittaker, Tim Hill, Katy Whittaker

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 07/Oct/12

Hidden - TR - 06/Oct/12

gingerwolf - TR RP - 02/Jan/12

mwatson - TR - 17/Oct/11 with shunt

chrishedgehog - 2nd dog - 25/Apr/11 with S. Hunt

akhughes - Solo O/S - 14/Apr/11

Nice! Tricky moves, fairly powerful for a slab. 1 pad to level out the landing, which I was grateful for. Shame Hairless Heart was wet, would have liked to do the combination
Mike Goldthorp - Solo O/S - 03/Mar/11 with Steve Ramsden

Climbed clean from the first ledge after a few goes. Doubt I will ever solo this. Awesome moves though.
PeteH - TR RP - 02/Mar/11 with Mark Watson

3rd go GU, 3 pads. Awesome route.
James Oakes - Solo G/U - 12/Feb/11 with Brad Cowley, Bill Lawrence, Guy Van Greuning

a relative siege for me and with two pads a lot of fun. Back as soon as it stops raining, very important where you aim for on the dyno
GuyVG - Sent dnf - 12/Feb/11

3rd go. Nearly flashed it.
Ed Booth - Solo - 23/Jan/11 with Adam Long, Sean Grady

highlight of intended active rest solo sesh. no new ticks but good to be doing some moves at height again without suffering terror.
Ram MkiV - Solo rpt - 26/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/10

fell off after dyno move. bent finger back on landing so ran away
barni - Solo dnf - 13/Oct/10 with luke, Liam fleming

Pete Graham - Solo - 14/Apr/10

above pads.
C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/10 with rob lay

malx - Solo O/S - Mar/10

2007 snow
scott gibson - Solo O/S - 2010 with james abley

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/09

Slim was calling out some help along the first part of the route so can't really call it a pure onsight. I was pretty gripped tbh!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo β - 02/May/09

tuftynick - Solo rpt - Apr/09 with rich cross

Hidden - Solo - Apr/09

Hidden - Solo - 09/Dec/08

Dave Bond - Solo rpt - 09/Dec/08

Andrew Sloan - TR dnf - 15/Jun/08 with Martin Haworth

MYSSAK - Solo rpt - 17/May/08

Did the crux, but had severe lack of commitment. Just one of those days...
Oli - Solo dnf - 11/Dec/07 with Alan/Alex

Ground up...
willackers - Solo RP - 20/Nov/07 with Chris Cubitt, Dan Walker

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Nov/07

MYSSAK - Solo β - 04/Nov/07

Ground up, second attempt (above 3 mats). Did Downhill Racer after clean onsight, Artless was harder.
Somerset swede basher - Solo G/U - 18/Oct/07

decked out first go entering great slab, slightly stung! got back on and found it fine E4 6a.
Alex Mason - Solo - 07/Oct/07 with K, steve, alex, toby

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 20/Sep/07

Above a mat although not actually above the mat!
Jake Shaw - Lead O/S - Mar/07

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Dec/06

nathanmanc - Solo rpt - Apr/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2006

bronsonite - Solo O/S - 26/Nov/05

Hidden - Solo RP - 13/Nov/05

Hidden - Solo RP - Nov/05

Ropeboy - Solo - 15/Feb/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Solo O/S - 2005

Dave Bond - Solo - 16/Mar/03 with sam

ground up, 2nd go
lx - Solo - Mar/03

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2003 with Tidy

Hidden - TR O/S - 2002

Hidden - TR O/S - Nov/00

Hidden - TR dnf - 27/Apr/00

tlr - Solo O/S - 2000

Boy - 2000

No mats.
Jon Read - Solo RP - Jan/98 with Tanya Holdsworth

kato'sdad - TR - Oct/97 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - TR - Oct/97 with Jon Berry

with Hairless finish
Dave Musgrove - 2nd β - 09/Mar/97 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo O/S - 09/Mar/97

Hidden - Solo RP - Mar/97

switch - Solo O/S - 1997

Davros the Psyched - Solo O/S - 1996

Hidden - TR - 1995

Stoney Boy - Solo - 10/Aug/93

One of those days when it just seemed to click :]
adi bryant - Solo O/S - May/93

Hidden - TR - 20/Mar/93

Short but brilliant climbing. Flashed this on the first attempt, then couldn't get off the ground when I tried it a few years later. Finished up GS.
Sean Kelly - Jun/92 with John Hynes

Hidden - TR - 27/Mar/91

craig h - 19/May/90

Hidden - Solo O/S - 1989

craig d - Solo O/S - 1988

Mike Owen - 10/Nov/85 with Joe Picalli

Dave Musgrove - TR - 12/Jun/85 with Kim Greenald

sadams - TR - 26/Jun/84 with Pete Herrod

Soloed in the days of a little bit of carpet and when it was E4 6a
Lone Rider - Solo O/S - May/84

Chris Craggs - Solo - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jacob shieldhouse hadley, theomoore, alexanderjwatts, richiebongo

Total votes cast 86
hard E60 of 30
E60 of 30
easy E61 of 30
hard E50 of 30
E58 of 30
easy E517 of 30
hard E44 of 30
E40 of 30
easy E40 of 30
hard 6c0 of 29
6c0 of 29
easy 6c0 of 29
hard 6b0 of 29
6b11 of 29
easy 6b12 of 29
hard 6a6 of 29
6a0 of 29
easy 6a0 of 29
3 Stars7 of 27
2 Stars18 of 27
1 Star2 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP