Rockfax Description
How can a 6m crack be this hard? One of the most frigged pitches in the Peak, despite its innocuous appearance. The crack leads to the break and an easier upper section on solid jams. For the competent it may be easier to solo than to faff with runners! © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1951

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, MUMC Ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Roberttaylor 13/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct TR
EllieWoods 04/Oct TR O/S
with Dave C
mark schramm 04/Oct TR
with Chris E
Alex Winter 27/Sep Lead O/S

Awkward first half.

with Jake and Alice
dom94 19/Sep Solo O/S
amccann 19/Sep Lead β

On Fabrizio's gear.

Jake Young 19/Sep Solo rpt

A Grit Day Out !

with Fabritzio, Dom, Tom Appleby, Alex M, Nick
Andy Peak 1 18/Sep Lead rpt

First route of the Day, got the blood moving

Hidden 18/Sep 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep Lead
Hidden 03/Sep 2nd
Pete Rigby 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 29/Aug 2nd
RosePearson 23/Aug Lead O/S

fun and nice.

with Laurence Knowles
Tommy Moore 22/Aug 2nd O/S

I led the first section and fell off from the ledge, happy with the attempt though.

Hidden 22/Aug 2nd
drewish 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Dad
Louishmouis 25/Jul Lead O/S
with finn
Dizz 06/Jul Lead dog
with Martina
Dizz 06/Jul 2nd rpt

Just about seconded clean after a dog lead attempt! Placing gear is the crux - getting it out is as hard!

with Martina
Hidden 28/Jun Lead
Hidden 28/Jun 2nd
RKirke 20/Jun Lead G/U
Stroppy 20/Jun 2nd rpt
iainsanderson 30/May 2nd dog
Neal Jobling 22/May 2nd
with Gareth Uglow
Mowglee 21/May Lead dog
Jamie Everitt 16/May Lead dog

Rob got a couple of pieces in the wall but offered to let me try the crack after a number of attempts. Finally broke through to the break with a bold, high foot lay back. Still completely pumped I rested on every cam I placed!

with Rob Edwards
smartydh9 14/May Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May Lead O/S
manwithacam 09/May 2nd

tough little crack but brilliant.

with Alan
tcn_2002 19/Apr Lead
salix 18/Apr Solo O/S

Didn't mean to do this, but got to break and couldn't get down. Thankfully second half is easier than first.

with Isaac, Caitlin
Hidden 11/Apr 2nd rpt
pulseroom 08/Apr 2nd O/S

Hard but loved it. Great climbing.

MarcinGobczynski 08/Apr Lead G/U
Hidden 02/Apr 2nd rpt
Dan Geh 28/Feb Lead dog

Nails! Rain didn't help. Hardest HVS in the world?

AMJ098 28/Feb 2nd dog

Started raining heavily. Somehow got up. Probably in the worst style the routes ever been climbed

with Dan Geh
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead G/U
Don't like e3s 28/Dec/14 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Sam Simpson 10/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hannes B 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Neil C
adam 24 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Stuart Johnston 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Brutal initial crack

Nick Russell 25/Oct/14 2nd

One of the more obvious sandbags I've climbed.

with Jamie
zcsharp 25/Oct/14 Lead dog

Was HVS 5b in my guide, but knew it was gonna be a sandbag.

Hidden 19/Oct/14 Solo dnf
harry_lewis 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 19/Oct/14 Lead β

Stupid pop off getting off the floor, really amazing route, not too hard

Mark Grist 18/Oct/14 Lead β
with Tom Doldon
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Jack93 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Got first time today! Much better than last time when I got spat off about 2m up

PaulTanton 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

I found this quite easy, Defiantly NOT 5c

ian d f 11/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Simon
theomoore 27/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
tim newton 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 21/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Dan Vaj 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
mark4344 13/Sep/14 Lead rpt

tough route in lower half.

with derek, Dan Vaj
Robb Bert 07/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead dnf
Chris M 29/Aug/14 AltLd
with Dan G
Ian Hylands 24/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Struggled to get into bottom crack. Was trying up right hand side - need to try left side next time before tiring out.

with Piers Turnbull
Lukem6 13/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Flashed clean after years.

with tom perry
Matt Cooke 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Rosh
atom 09/Aug/14 Lead dog

A great layback start up the initial finger crack, glad I placed a small nut high first from the stance as I came off the ledge, getting your feet in the crack helps. Rest on the ledge with good gear, mind the bats sleeping in the crack :/ Top section is a wonderful hand jamming experience with bomber cams. Excellent belay from Lee

Hidden 05/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead dog
Stroppy 20/Jul/14 Lead β
with Steve McClure
MrBIond 11/Jul/14 2nd
mrteale 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
John Jefferies 09/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Andy Stewart
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd dog
JimboWizbo 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Very hard. Very pleased. Glorious hand jamming at the top

with Steve S, Beth
Simoisfab 05/Jul/14 TR dog

Nice pumpy climb

cat22 29/Jun/14 Lead
with Sian, Megan
sian88 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 28/Jun/14 2nd rpt
ben.meakin 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/14 Lead rpt
ClemB 14/May/14 Lead dnf

bottom section felt well hard..

Hidden 14/May/14 2nd
papashango 04/May/14 Lead RP

end of a long weekend, pretty brutal

with Rob
rob.grafton 04/May/14 2nd dog
with conor shepherd
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
pbuggy91 16/Apr/14 Lead dog
Fragmod 16/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Lenny 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden 09/Apr/14 2nd
TomYates 06/Apr/14 Lead dog
scott quinn 05/Apr/14 Lead dog

hard, sat on a runner

Tom.Priestley 05/Apr/14 TR dog

Well protected E1

belay bunny turned bad 30/Mar/14 Lead
with Mark w
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd dog
cheeky 05/Mar/14 Lead dog

Took over from Mark and used siege tactics to get to the ledge.

with Dave Rich, Mark Philipson
mark4344 05/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Matt Payne
alexgill180 18/Feb/14 TR
alexgill180 18/Feb/14 TR
toasted 19/Jan/14 Lead
with Luke Green
Jack93 11/Jan/14 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
bigdrew ??/2014 Lead
with Dunc
Ollie B 15/Dec/13 Lead O/S

I think 3 months climbing on granite cracks made this seem pretty easy...

with T.Ripley
Dan Bates 13/Nov/13 -
bwestwood 19/Oct/13 2nd
Lukem6 07/Oct/13 Lead dnf

made it through the crux clean then came off. next time its in the bag

Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd dnf
Cake 05/Oct/13 Lead β

Still really hard. Fell off a few years ago. I still messed up the gear a bit on the start, but it wasn't too bad. Quality E1

Peter Reynolds ?/Oct/13 Lead dog
Chris Reid 29/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd
lisaboldini 21/Sep/13 Lead dog

My first HVS. Took twice on bottom crack (HARD) - top crack was really nice. A bit overhanging at first but was ok with the ledge rest. Easy to protect. Climbed with Craig.

BenPitt 14/Sep/13 2nd dog
mjeffery 12/Sep/13 2nd rpt
edmitchell 08/Sep/13 Lead dog

Not sure about 5c moves, maybe one. Gear really good everywhere, so very safe. Really pumpy, because it's not a pure jamming route.

with Emma Rowe, brmc members
Jimbo C 08/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Got through the crux with difficulty and fell whilst trying to get onto the mid way ledge - gutted. I will be back.

with Will
Dr Toph 31/Aug/13 Solo O/S

Tougher than it looks, not the best warmup ;)

pearson9596 17/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Pete Hiscox
guy757 15/Aug/13 -
Nevil ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Mike
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
guy757 05/Jul/13 -
Hardcore Pat 29/Jun/13 Lead β
with Dan Osbasabooboo, Matt Tregellas
BigTone 29/Jun/13 2nd dog

If you can't jam (like me) then you'll find this a rank battle.

treg 29/Jun/13 2nd dog

With lots of rests.

with Patrick
Tala M 02/Jun/13 2nd dog
NaomiHart 12/May/13 Lead O/S
mark4344 11/May/13 Lead dnf
with Matt Payne
al123 24/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
pelvoux 21/Apr/13 2nd RP

Tough climb even seconding. Well done Oskari

with Oskari
climbinmunkey 20/Apr/13 2nd dog

Hung to retrieve gear.

with Helen
helenstuart 20/Apr/13 Lead dog

Oh Dear

with Mike
Hidden 09/Apr/13 2nd dog
cheeky 09/Apr/13 Lead dog

Tough tough climb for the Grade. This is never HVS.

with Andreas
sparkass 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
stuart34 07/Apr/13 2nd
with duncan
Haydn Jones 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
pipof747 17/Mar/13 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 16/Feb/13 Lead
with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Tom C
sgl0jd 16/Feb/13 -
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Solo O/S
Alex@home 02/Dec/12 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
dr_botnik 27/Oct/12 Lead dnf
with Paul, Phil Taylor
James Oswald 27/Oct/12 Lead RP

Finally done after failing on it last year. It felt like fairly solid E1 to me, it's a joke at HVS! Great technical jamming though!

spidermonkey09 20/Oct/12 Lead RP

Absolute bastard, never climbing it again if I can avoid it!

keithpeck 14/Oct/12 Lead RP
Anthony Allsopp 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/12 2nd
Nigel Bond 06/Oct/12 Lead
with Bern Hardman
Hidden 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/12 2nd dog
richiebongo 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
andyjirvin 18/Sep/12 Lead dog

The most falling/resting I've ever done! SO different to seconding. Felt like I had the sequence completely wring today, god knows how I did it last time. Top-section was relatively easy, though by that time I was completely boxed and had lost my head a bit. Need to be bolder, trust the gear as it's good, and work out a better sequence. Some good holds up and right (hidden) when moving into the recess.

Danny Crump 16/Sep/12 Lead
Jake Young 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd dog
Nick1812P 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Jake
Hidden ?/Sep/12 -
deacondeacon 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 14/Aug/12 Solo rpt
esther ?/Aug/12 Lead
greenclimb 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd
climbingpixie 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Andy
Rachel Slater 07/Jul/12 Lead β


with Olli Crudge, Andrea Morgan
Olli-C 07/Jul/12 Lead β

Just, had seconded it 3 years ago.

with Andrea
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead dnf
soph 01/Jul/12 Lead
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 12/Jun/12 2nd RP
Morwood 05/Jun/12 Lead RP

Lowered off from about half way up the bottom crack. Did it on the 2nd attempt. Nails at HVS but bomber gear.

MarkRoe 05/Jun/12 Lead G/U
gillywillyhoo 05/Jun/12 2nd dog

Most i've ever dogged a climb! Bloody tought and pumpy

matty123 05/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Lukem6 27/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 27/May/12 TR
Graeme Hammond 21/May/12 2nd rpt
Ahab 21/May/12 Lead O/S

Seems better to grade this as a sport route than a trad route as the gear is so good and it is so pumpy...

gazfellows 20/May/12 2nd
with Billy nic, steff
madasten 20/May/12 Lead β

What a cracking route! Beautifully sustained bottom section in particular. Definitely not 5c - sustained 5b is more like it - but personally I would agree with the HVS grade as the gear is bombproof everywhere! It's a hard HVS or soft E1 and I'd prefer the former.

with Miquel, Gaz
Theeni 13/May/12 2nd

Got it clean but it was very hard.

with Ian Sutcliffe
ianjfsutcliffe 13/May/12 Lead


with Henry
minaturechris 13/May/12 2nd dog

Erm... My plan to consolodate at HVS this year was blown out of the water after dogging up this one... Awkward and strenuous if, like me, you have a poor jamming technique.

with Lee Parsons, Masa
masa-alpin 13/May/12 Lead dog

I have once tried in 2006 and badly failed. To my surprise I still fell off a few times and had rests before reaching the mid-height ledge... I found this climb to be very hard - harder than Embankment 3 and The Toy.

with Chris G, Lee P
M_W_Court 13/May/12 Lead
with Dave Luke
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
BRoe 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Not sure how this is HVS if i'm honest!

kabutsu 22/Apr/12 TR
whitehouse_rhys 22/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with ben roe
Dave 88 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S

HVS 5c is a ridiculous grade. Not a 5c move on it, but plenty of 5b. So surely E1 5b makes way more sense. Either way, strong route!

with Kemics
Kemics 16/Apr/12 Lead

Ground up. Fell on the onsight low down, worked the low crack to the rest on the rope. Lowered, pulled ropes and lead clean. Not really 5c but not really HVS. E1 5b makes waaay more sense and more accurately reflects the climbing.

with Dave 88
theotherpetehill 25/Mar/12 Lead β

Fell off this once before in the snow

BicepAndrews 25/Mar/12 Lead RP
with Jim Hulbert
spidermonkey09 25/Mar/12 2nd dog

Will climb it again, once, to lead it but never again.

Chris Redding 25/Mar/12 Lead β

YoYo'd up to continue from 2 friends who both fell.Three pieces of gear were already in, but just up to the break/cave/rest. The rest was pure lead :)

TRFrost 25/Mar/12 Lead dnf
with W. Hooke
TRFrost 25/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with C. Redding
mes32 24/Mar/12 2nd dog


gronbech 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Tom
will_benfold 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Neil R 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ian
Euan Strachan 18/Mar/12 Lead dog
mattshort 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Callum T 18/Mar/12 2nd
Alex@home 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead dnf
david morse 13/Feb/12 Lead rpt

Got to be the hardest HVS in the peak...

with lole
Hidden 13/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 14/Jan/12 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 08/Jan/12 Lead
with Ed Douglas
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
maddy.c ??/2012 -
Derek Ryden ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Andy Forbes
admackie ??/2012 -
chris_B 27/Nov/11 Lead


Thinker01 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

warm up, steep but HVS 5b sounds about right.

Hidden 13/Nov/11 Lead β
Calder 12/Nov/11 2nd
with Mark, Ste
stemill 12/Nov/11 2nd dog
with Mark, Graham
Diggler 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Nov/11 AltLd
maffujones 22/Oct/11 Lead
with Zuzana Deans
Hidden 20/Oct/11 Lead
mark20 19/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/11 Lead O/S
JRae 19/Oct/11 2nd
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Solo O/S
chedder 01/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with luke watts
Bryan M 16/Sep/11 2nd
andyjirvin 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Awesome route! Very hard, pumpy climbing, not just thuggy, you have to think too... removing gear whilst pumped also tricky. Reckon I could just about lead this, a bit of extra fitness/endurance wouldn't hurt though.

Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead β
kermit_uk 15/Aug/11 Lead dog
KurtD 15/Aug/11 2nd dog
grubes 14/Aug/11 2nd
with Haydn
Hardonicus 14/Aug/11 Lead dog

If this is HVS Chequers Buttress is about HS! Got up to the good hold before the pull onto the ledge. Polished footholds on the left are a total red herring and the only way is out right. E1 for the onsight defo. BUT 5b no 5c moves on this.

with Luke Donaldson
al123 09/Aug/11 Solo rpt

a great solo, fun

al123 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

really nice climb. not 5c or E1, too well protected with wires and jams. fun though

with alex
Hidden 07/Aug/11 2nd dog
tomjagger 30/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Matt Cooke
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 30/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd rpt
leon 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Lead after Adam suggested I have a try, cheers Adam!! Top roped after to retrieve some of the gear. Very pleased to get this one onsight, every move on the first crack feels 5b. Too hard to be 3 stars!!

with Adam Youd
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Daniel Heath 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd O/S
bullwinkle 31/May/11 2nd O/S
with Bart, John
davidgent 21/May/11 Lead dnf
with Andy Parsons
oliver.ghill91 10/May/11 Lead dog
ColinD 04/May/11 2nd O/S

A great warm up from the car!

with Keith
keith leonard 04/May/11 AltLd
pudding 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with john phethean
Tom Redmond 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

quality climb!!!

with tom ivory
Steve Waters, Mynydd 16/Apr/11 2nd

Failed leading the first crack - too pumped to do the finishing moves to the better holds. Seconded it just about OK. The top crack is no walkover.

with Richard Waltham and Maria Goggin
disturbed_one51 16/Apr/11 Lead
Jonathan Hall 16/Apr/11 2nd
Laurence Everitt 12/Apr/11 Lead RP

Dogged up this seconding James a while back, got it fine today on lead.

adam coxsell 12/Apr/11 2nd
tuftynick 06/Apr/11 2nd
with ben winston, rich cross
Hidden 06/Apr/11 2nd
Tamati ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
Tamati ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
Shauna 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Jules
JulesV 26/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
pie_eater_pete 25/Mar/11 Lead
minirollsrule 25/Mar/11 2nd dog

totaly dogged this route, must get stronger and beter at laybacking!

with laura norcop
JRae 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Hard. Pumpy. Ace climbing though.

with P Latham
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Joe Grondowski 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Neil Elmore
llamaglama 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Jam
Jonas Paulsson 07/Mar/11 2nd

The starting crack is hard.

with Oskar Alexandersson
tdan0504 06/Mar/11 Lead β
with Bat Casale
highclimber 30/Jan/11 Lead dnf

rested before the big break, fell from above. hurt my bum - I will be back!

Hidden 19/Jan/11 Lead
Andy Peak 1 ??/2011 Lead dnf

Hard! had a small fall!

with chung
markpollak ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
GuyM ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PeteH 13/Dec/10 2nd O/S
highlux 13/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Pete Hart
DaveFidler 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Arron Quinn
thomasadixon 20/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Nails at the grade.

with Mike, andy
Hidden 11/Oct/10 Lead
simeclimb68 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

mean jamming crack sure did make me sweat

Kevster 09/Oct/10 Lead RP
stephenhartley 25/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S


with JB
Lukem6 02/Sep/10 TR dnf

attempt 3 at my summer project, will complete. mastered the bottom then fell. grrr. great jamming, laybacking, a little of everything.

Lukem6 22/Aug/10 TR dnf

second attempt, this time got above the crux then pumped out. DO NOT TRY THIS AT END OF DAY...

James Oakes 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Bill Lawrence 10/Aug/10 Lead β

led on oakseys gear, need to practice cracks more

melonmike 08/Aug/10 2nd β
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt
AsleepOnBelay 07/Aug/10 Lead dog

Argh! Very annoyed I didn't get this without a rest. Farted around putting the wrong gear in and missed the footholds that would have got me to the halfway point and salvation. Must try harder.

with Dave
220bpm 07/Aug/10 2nd

Absolutely nails! No way I'd have managed it clean on the lead. Oh and three stars, you have to be joking!

with Dave
roberto18 03/Aug/10 2nd


with Tom Nickols, Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Tom led.Very tough lower crack,I found laybacking into the crack the best way,a couple of good jams if you look for them,but a full on route!Top crack is a joy!

with Tom Nichols, Robert Bridges
Chi Cheng 11/Jul/10 Lead RP

Fook. this was hard. so pumped after 3 or 4 moves in. Took one fall, on the first bit of gear. Left it in as i placed it while stud on the ground. Pulled the rope and did ground up.

Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead rpt
tomthecoolperson 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ben 250
ben_250 18/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Tom
Lukem6 17/Jun/10 TR dnf

accordinbg to Peak District : Climbing by John Coefield and Jon Barton this is a Hvs 5b, but is definatly harder than that

with jamie taylor, dennis janisse
dennis janisse 17/Jun/10 2nd
with lm610
Misha 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Placed two bomber nuts from ok position but the moves were hard - deserves E1 and a hard one at that!

with Ed
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
thomasmouse 03/May/10 Lead dog
Audrey @ The Castle ?/May/10 2nd O/S
spqr 14/Apr/10 TR dog
with Richard
bnewman 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Quite hard for me. It was right at my limit and totally awesome. Great gear, you just have to be strong enough to place it.

with Johannes
Hidden 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
shark 27/Mar/10 Solo
Shauna 21/Mar/10 2nd dog

Thoroughly dogged to death (by me).

with Jules
gordonday 07/Mar/10 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Feb/10 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 31/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Phil Baxter, Paul Dewey
Ben Vieyra ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
scott gibson ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
bigie bob 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
feilx 31/Oct/09 Solo O/S
with james d
Richard Horn 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead
Matt Shepherd 29/Sep/09 2nd O/S
david morse 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S


with Ewan
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd dog
Em66 27/Sep/09 2nd
with Mat
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
gnc760 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with James Kay
JM 18/Sep/09 Solo
with Andrew Stripp
MeMeMe 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy
tigertim 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Tony Payne
Neil D 12/Sep/09 Lead dog
BorisVBlade 12/Sep/09 2nd dog
metal arms 06/Sep/09 Lead
ed edwards ?/Sep/09 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
chris sm 31/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Quite tricky for HVS. The crack was damp which didn't help.

with Pippa Froggatt
Timo Austino 18/Aug/09 Lead dog

Reet pumpy little number - bugger

with mounty
Hidden 13/Aug/09 2nd dog
Si dH 02/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Awesome. Pleased to get it clean. Couldnt fully rememebr the movesform previous attempt, but could remember just how easy to slot in the gear was, which made all the difference to me climbign quickly :)

with Gary
AlistairB 02/Aug/09 2nd dog

Dogged to retrive stuck nuts, currently a fixed cam in the top section for anyone who fancies investing some time with the nut key.

with Neil R
Neil R 02/Aug/09 Lead
Jim Slater 12/Jul/09 Lead dog

Bloody hard!

with Dave Murphy
Hidden 09/Jun/09 2nd
Gustav 09/Jun/09 Lead dog


with Matt B and Dan W
WayneR ?/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd dog
KarlH 28/May/09 Lead dnf

On second attempt got to the break but couldn't get any gear in and fell off when i could not hold on anymore!

with Matt The Accused
caradoc 24/May/09 Lead O/S

View at- http://youtu.be/JjMh-e_OoB8

with emma v.
dashitboarder 03/May/09 2nd dog

Felt like 6b sport so should probably be an e1. Dad had a nice fall whilst trying to clip.

with Dad
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd O/S
Dr Caterpillar 02/May/09 2nd O/S

e1 for sure

Hidden 02/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd
Jez ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with NJSharp
DanH9883 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Kenny D
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/09 Lead
HIGHTOWER 04/Apr/09 2nd dog

Faild on th lead and rested when seconding. Good lead by Ben.

with Ben Thynne
simonp ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nicki Hearne
Somerset swede basher 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S

This is hard, closest ive been to coming off for a while!

with Nick Payne
BicepAndrews 14/Mar/09 Lead

start is nails. loads of gear. rested/fell at start.

Samo 14/Mar/09 2nd dog

a pumpy route but easier finish, a good climb

Phill Mitch ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Very happy to do this clean on sight on the first trad day this year.It's harder than some E1's I have done,but I don't think it's 5c.

with wayne
Giles-Caradog ?/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/09 -
Byronius Maximus 24/Jan/09 2nd

Bloody hard work

Twisty 24/Jan/09 Lead O/S

The disgusting, horrible crack turned out to be a rather pleasant route

with Byron Buck
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Brown 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
LittleJoe 24/Nov/08 Lead dog

Team effort, Rob backed off, I lead with his first 2 pieces of gear in. Solid!

with Rob
Si dH 16/Nov/08 Lead dog

Rested on the bottom half. Not quite so bad as Id expected though - reasonably confident of doing it clean if/when I try again.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 16/Nov/08 2nd rpt
irish paul 19/Oct/08 Lead dog

1 fall/rest in lower crack. Ug...

with Dave Roberts
Tez29 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Mousey
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd
mic_b 17/Oct/08 Lead O/S
exelbyt 16/Oct/08 TR
Flash29 14/Oct/08 2nd
with Irish
ASchwirtz 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Oct/08 -
whiting.jp 29/Sep/08 Lead dnf

Finished up Solomon's Crack, was too cold, wind blasted, hungry, thirsty, and psyched out to commit. Bad judgement to start it, but good judgement to give up..

with jamesca
Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
barni 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Jack
dannyboy83 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Dad, Will
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead dog
Oceanic 02/Aug/08 -
Mattyk 28/Jun/08 2nd

Had to hand on rope to get overcammed cam out.. bloody pumpy. made the mistake of laybacking it.. should jam!

jhardwick 20/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Don't remember it being this hard/smooth when I led it!

with Pete meads
joe larner 20/Jun/08 Lead O/S
petemeads 19/Jun/08 Lead

Struggled on the lower crack, as expected, but made it OK (better than 35 years ago, anyway!)

TomHaigh 16/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Doug
Andrew Sloan 15/Jun/08 Lead rpt

Clean ascent....about my 6th attempt!!!Martin fell off second!!

morganator 27/May/08 2nd
Ben1983 14/May/08 Lead rpt

previously seconded

swoosh 11/May/08 Solo
with ginzle
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd dog
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead dnf
PanzerHanzler 12/Apr/08 2nd dnf

Just not good enough :-(

with Lafi Fides
Dan 85 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Rob
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
sam8oy ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
joese7en ??/2008 Lead O/S
jonnybull ??/2008 2nd dog
with Alban
goi.ashmore 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S

In the rain!

with Myles Jordan
nacnud 03/Nov/07 2nd
Rich Kirby 27/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Wet on initial crack. Absolutely desperate! HVS !!!

tom.e 11/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Jon_Warner 06/Oct/07 2nd dog

Rest to collect gear! Pretty brutal.

with Tom
johnboyrevel ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Faye
Hidden 26/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead dnf
chrishedgehog 22/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Stig 15/Aug/07 Lead rpt

Previously seconded Aug03, with rests

with Chris
Graeme Hammond 13/Aug/07 Lead RP
OffshoreAndy 12/Aug/07 2nd
with NCC Kelvin
Shaw Brown 04/Aug/07 Lead
with David Jones
gregoritos ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John Hall
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead
Andrew Sloan 01/Apr/07 Lead dnf

Failed again. I would grade this top end E1.

tom144807 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 17/Mar/07 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Mar/07 Lead dnf
Andrew Sloan 18/Feb/07 Lead dog
Oli 15/Feb/07 Lead dog

Pretty much pissed the hard part and then fell off the easy top crack through a reluctance to jam. Much swearing ensued.

Hidden ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
steve taylor ??/2007 -
mat cooper ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Peakpdr ??/2007 Lead dog

the discription is spot on / looks straight foward but it isnt

with john
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
UndercoverElephant ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 26/Nov/06 Lead
Andrew Sloan 12/Nov/06 Lead dog
with Steve Grove
Hidden 03/Nov/06 2nd O/S
SecretSquirrel 03/Nov/06 Lead dog

Hard work! Did all the moves, but rested on gear. Not the most elegant top out either!

Nicos 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 24/Sep/06 Lead dog
with Steve Grove
adam carless 16/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Jon_nz
adam carless 16/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Gerry Taylor
OffshoreAndy 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with UKC Jeremy
howlingbaboon 30/Aug/06 TR dog
with Rob
crossdressingrodney 22/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with sophie whyte
tskelhon ?/Jul/06 Lead dog
with george walley
tskelhon ?/Jul/06 Lead dog
with george walley
masa-alpin 19/Feb/06 Lead dnf

Fell off, tried more, but gave up eventually. Hard.

with Neil H
Hidden 18/Feb/06 Lead
Hidden 18/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
alicia 16/Feb/06 2nd
with Tobs
Tobias at Home 16/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Very pleased to finally start up this. thought upper crack was pretty tricky - 5a? lower crack no more than 5b though.

with Alicia
reg_measures 10/Feb/06 Lead dog

1 rest

with Ondrez
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd O/S
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/05 TR rpt
cem 13/Nov/05 Lead dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
bfreeman ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Hely
Neil Ireson ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Guy R
nicholas Barrowclough 12/Jul/05 Solo

easier to solo than lead!

Ramon Marin 10/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Charlie Williams ?/Jun/05 Lead dnf
with Andy Gladdis
Hidden 25/May/05 2nd O/S
Dave Reeve ?/May/05 2nd
with Steve Hordley
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Chris M ??/2005 -
brownie mike ??/2005 -
thetourist 07/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with Stefan Ericsson
Stefan 07/Nov/04 2nd dog
with Dave
ChrisBrooke 31/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
Ropeboy 19/Sep/04 Lead


Hidden 21/Aug/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead
Hidden 30/May/04 Lead
Hidden 15/May/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2004 -
Skell ??/2004 Lead dog
sadams 12/Oct/03 -
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead
frost ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Stig 05/Aug/03 2nd dog

Fell off on the VS jamming crack.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Different Steve ?/May/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/03 2nd O/S
ArnaudG ??/2003 Lead
with Dunc
Chris Reid ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Nov/02 2nd
Nigel Coe 09/Sep/02 2nd

HVS? And people say Swanage is undergraded!

Hidden 09/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/02 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S

As hard as they say.

with Martin Flint
Just Another Dave 15/Jun/02 Solo rpt
dan gibson 31/May/02 Solo
nickdonohue ?/May/02 Lead
cem 07/Apr/02 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Jan/02 Lead O/S
Duncan I ??/2002 Lead dog
with Arnaud G
Hidden ??/2002 -
Peakpdr ??/2002 -
with john
WB 06/Aug/00 Lead O/S

done before

with Guy
John Marsland 23/Jul/00 Lead dog
with Darrell Small
willackers ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Mark Shore
Colin Edwards ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Solo
Boy ??/2000 -
DafSWMC 17/Oct/99 Lead RP
with UMIST
Hidden 16/Sep/99 Lead dog
antroy 10/Sep/99 Lead
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 -
ajc 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Colin Edwards 04/Apr/99 Lead O/S
petekeron ??/1999 2nd O/S
with Jamie Barclay
clive-greenwood 07/Nov/98 Lead
Paul-Michael 06/Jun/98 2nd dnf

Paul's feet sliped renching his arm which was jammed in the brake at half hight, then just missed decking out.

with Paul Nurse
bigphil 11/Jan/98 2nd dog
with Calum
Roget 11/Oct/97 Solo rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/97 2nd
CrashMat Rob 26/Oct/96 Lead O/S
with Matt Thompson, Karen
ste_d 18/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mik
Tim Bateman 09/Jun/96 Lead
Adrian Eggleton ??/1996 Lead
with Tim Darlow
andrew300169 22/Jul/95 Lead dog
with Sarah
iskra2000 02/Jul/95 2nd
with Mark Leach
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/95 -
shoulders 13/Apr/95 Lead
shoulders 12/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
Okecroak 24/Sep/94 2nd dog
with J. Homewood
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/94 Lead
mikedelderfield 11/Mar/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 TR O/S
Roget 27/Dec/93 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 19/Sep/93 Solo
ste_d 12/Apr/93 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden 21/Mar/93 Lead
IanD353 ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1993 -
NickJH ?/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with I Smith
rob.grafton 16/Mar/92 2nd
with Bruce
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with elliot blaylock
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Mick King 27/Oct/91 Lead dog
with Simon Walsh
mattnuttall 27/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
craig h 09/Jun/91 -
Hidden 18/May/91 2nd
Hidden 27/Mar/91 2nd
Hidden 13/Oct/90 Lead O/S
michael burrows 18/Mar/90 2nd
with steve williams
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S

possibly seconded can't remember

Rob Davies ?/Sep/89 Lead dnf

Tried this unsuccessfully a few times over the years. Best effort was to reach halfway break but then lower off in order to be sick

with Mick Moss
Hidden 23/Jul/89 2nd
phardman 05/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 -
surfbish ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
BigHairyIan 18/Jul/88 2nd O/S
with Steve Waite (Little Steve)
Hidden 09/Jul/88 Lead
John Marsland 29/Nov/87 Lead dog
with Dave Soles
howifeel ?/Oct/87 2nd O/S

One of my memorable belays, sorting a twisted rope and the leader appears next to me, toes nearly touch the ground. It looks easy but the last step to half way is as awkward as the rest of the initial crack.

with Alex Q
babymoac 19/Sep/87 Lead
with Sid & Marc S
Hidden 15/Aug/87 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun/87 Lead
shark 21/Nov/86 Solo O/S
GaryK ?/Jun/86 Lead O/S

Lay-backed the bottom crack instead of trying to jam it. A year later I soloed it by mistake. I was trying to show some guys, (who were failing on it), how to do the bottom crack. I found myself quite high up and decided to top out rather than down climb.

with Colin Gourlay
AB1965 13/May/86 Lead
Tom V ??/1986 -
Neil R 27/Aug/85 Lead rpt
with Ian
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/84 2nd
Hidden 21/Mar/84 2nd
Gezzer ??/1984 -
Hidden 28/Oct/83 2nd
stp 02/Oct/83 Solo O/S

Done when it was 5a.

nigehughes ?/May/83 2nd
with Pete Kay
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
charlesmfrench 28/Nov/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/82 Solo
DPaul 19/Jul/82 Solo O/S
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
Hidden 17/Jun/81 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/81 Solo
Hidden 07/May/81 Solo
Hidden ?/Jan/81 Lead RP
telemark ??/1981 2nd
with Jim Sutherland
Hammy 25/Oct/80 Lead
with Rob Lawson
mark-abz 18/Sep/80 TR
with Rob S
Hidden 24/Feb/80 Lead
Andy Fielding ??/1980 Lead
Nic Robinson ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Chris Ellis 02/Jun/79 2nd
with Andy Say
Andy Say 02/Jun/79 Lead

With the famous Chris Ellis!

Mark Kemball 08/Oct/78 Lead
with Bob Millward
Dave Musgrove 16/Jul/78 -
with Kim Greenald
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
andy gittins ??/1978 -
Derek Ryden ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Andy Draper
Hidden 15/Oct/77 2nd
Hidden 15/Oct/77 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor 13/May/77 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick, Richard Langthorp
Chris Terrey ??/1976 2nd
with Jonathan Lagoe
rogerskews ??/1973 -
with Dane Atkins
clanger ??/1972 -
uphillnow ??/1970 -
mikej 12/Oct/69 2nd
with Pete Boardman
Hidden ??/1969 Lead O/S
mikej 13/May/67 Lead
with Frank Chester
mikej 29/Jan/67 Lead dnf
with Frank Chester, Mike Byles, Rick Naylor
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High E1
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High HVS
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Votes cast 190
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 180
Votes cast 147
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set