Rockfax Description
Classic grit E1. The leaning groove is awkward and insecure. At the bulge (high wire and/or big cam in the notch) leap onto the left arete and crank like a man possessed to finish or flounder with a flourish. Alternatively, ignore the photogenic jug dangle, and pull straight up into the groove. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown (some tension) 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

MSchobitz 22/May Lead RP

Finally! though it still required more than one go...

JamieSparkes 22/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/May Lead O/S
DanChad 14/May Lead O/S

Amazing route, not as hard as I thought it was going to be though still awkward beneath the overhang. Amazing finish!

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 14/May 2nd

Dan made it look easy. I had Popeye forearms by the end.

kermit_uk 30/Apr Lead G/U

Happy to put this to bed, felt pretty easy, found good positions and rest before the big moves then big moves on bigger holds. Great routes!

Hidden 22/Apr 2nd
David Sherratt 22/Apr Lead
David Sherratt 22/Apr Lead
Dave Turnbull, BMC 20/Apr Lead
with Mike Hutton
Sam Husband 10/Apr 2nd O/S

Tried the fingery way up the crack, popped out but caught the bottom jug and did the feet off for the crowd option. Got jaw pump from grinning so much (genuinely).

with Ed
Stroppy 10/Apr Lead G/U

Pumped out after an accidental cut loose

adi bryant 09/Apr 2nd β
with Sam
giuly 09/Apr 2nd
with Dougie
dswansonlow 09/Apr Lead O/S
with Claudia
Hidden 03/Apr Lead O/S
sdavies141 ?/Apr Lead
markalmack 25/Mar Lead O/S

Not piss!

Hidden 28/Feb TR rpt
TomRiddelsdell 27/Feb Lead dog
Matt77 27/Feb Lead β

On Tom's gear. Great crux move not dissimilar in style to the crux move on Fern Hill at Cratcliffe.

with Ben Williams, Shane, Tom Riddelsdell
harry_lewis 25/Feb Lead β
with Shaun
mattlyons 25/Feb 2nd dog
mrteale 25/Feb Lead β

Felt pretty tough for e1, quality route. Even let out a wee power scream at the crux.

Palmer 29/Dec/15 Lead dnf

next time

with Andy G
Andy Peak 1 29/Dec/15 Lead rpt
with Palmer
Gus 01/Nov/15 2nd
with Harold
Proddler ?/Nov/15 2nd
David Kay 17/Oct/15 Lead dnf
theomoore 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

floundered but still finished

bigdrew 10/Oct/15 Lead rpt

On Cams gear.

Nick Russell 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great fun, massive holds! I was a bit worried when I first made the reach out, but it does go ok above that.

SJS 04/Oct/15 2nd
with Nick
dominic lee 03/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Pete O'Donnovan
Ian Hylands 27/Sep/15 2nd dog

Got it on the second try after Gareth got up it clean. From the good bit on the left of the jug, cam right foot into the notch and go for poorer low part of the edge with right hand first, then jump it up to the good bit. At that point it is over.

with Gareth uglow
Ian Hylands 27/Sep/15 Lead dnf

After getting up it on second, tried on lead. Got all the gear in and got to crux, but ran out of juice. Need to go back fitter, lighter and with more finger endurance (esp. left). Might also help to nip down for a 'rest' after placing the top cam. Get feet quite high before reaching for the jug.

with Gareth uglow
Mowglee 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Nice to get this, about 3 years after falling off. Brilliant moves!

with Ian
galpinos 27/Sep/15 Lead dog

Ran out of beef on "the move". Corner was harder and more technical than I was anticipating.

with Sam
ralphio 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Only just held the top arete.

with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 19/Sep/15 2nd
with Ralph
Dale Comley 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
John Higgs 08/Sep/15 2nd
Ian Hylands 06/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Antonio tried but fell off crux. I tried clipping his gear. Then another go each. Reachy move from lower jug to upper one. To reach lower jug best to use finger lock high in the crack with right hand so you can get jug with control. Maybe then move feet up too? Lower part is actually mainly face climbing - the groove isn't very useful. Blue cam in the notch was bomber. A spare blue cam is useful lower down. Also used small silver cam, a nut and a green cam on the right, and a small nut in the groove on left just before going to place blue cam.

with Antonio Ferra
Andrew171 02/Sep/15 2nd dog
CharlieMack 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Wasn't the best suggestion for a warm up. And got quite pumped as I had four cams thrown up to put in the notch. Fun route though. Strong at the top.

with Ian
FlavioL1989 23/Aug/15 Lead G/U
rajeshwarbisht 23/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Flavio
andy.smythe 17/Aug/15 2nd
andy33 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
RobScarisbrick 16/Aug/15 2nd dog
Alan James - UKC and UKH 12/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
rurp 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Bridge the groove. Great rests and gear

with Mark
Hidden 04/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead dog
amccann 25/May/15 2nd rpt
with Micki
MSchobitz 25/May/15 Lead dog
OliverRoss 20/May/15 Lead dog

Not the best choice of warm up.

with Neil Davies
ned_85 20/May/15 2nd
amccann 17/May/15 Lead rpt

Move off the jug in the arete still feels a very long way.

Jake Young 17/May/15 2nd rpt
with Alex M
benkelsey 17/May/15 2nd rpt
with James Oswald
benkelsey 17/May/15 2nd rpt
with James Oswald
Alex@home 11/May/15 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
Mike505 10/May/15 Lead dnf
AsleepOnBelay 07/May/15 2nd

One to lead onsight to get the full experience... maybe in a years time when I've forgotten the moves!

with ian, Owen
Cake 07/May/15 Lead RP

Really not a warm up, but I knew I could do it. Burst a blood vessel in my finger as a result so went home. Failed before

with Ian Murray, Jeff
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
phil64 26/Apr/15 Lead

great rte

with mike cox, phil baker
Matt Cooke 25/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Rosh
rosh3000 25/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/15 TR
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd dog
john lynch 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with chris jackson, Bethan D
shaunhumphreys 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Was up and down the start a few times before i committed, quite pumpy!

with Alex M
Matt Groom 24/Mar/15 Lead
climberchristy 07/Mar/15 Lead rpt

Fell off this when cold last year (first route of the day) and did same again today (first route of day and hands numb in a fierce wind!) Went back at end of day when much warmer and led it clean with no issues. Tough crux for 5b.

with Ben Cole
john lynch 17/Feb/15 Lead rpt
with ian turton
marcduhig 02/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Not easy for the grade

Hidden ??/2015 -
centurion05 ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Tarquin
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead O/S
soph 17/Nov/14 2nd rpt
with Karel Snoek
nathanlee 09/Nov/14 Solo O/S

Bit awkward for a solo

with Dom Lee
Hidden 04/Nov/14 2nd dnf
Sam Simpson 04/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/14 2nd
PaulTanton 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Just lovely moves.

Mark Grist 12/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
benkelsey 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt

nice route, much easier than I remember

with Fran Hammond
soph 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Sam Ring, Tony Stone
WillDoyle 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Dave Mayes 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Sep/14 2nd O/S
robgixer 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
MichaelGallimore 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Philips
Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/14 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jul/14 -
JimboWizbo 12/Jul/14 Lead dog

Made it to the jug but had to rest before finishing up. Will get it next time. Great route.

with gaz, Ian, Beth
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd dnf
RFWilkie 28/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Mark
Thinker01 28/Jun/14 Lead dog

Stupidly missed the hold in the roof. Definitely worth going back for.....again!

John Jefferies 18/Jun/14 Lead dnf

A very hot day.

with Alan Segar
Kirill 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Eventually got to the top after resting on gear 3 or 4 times.

with EeFu
EeFu 14/Jun/14 2nd dog
g1m147 08/Jun/14 2nd

Tried leading first. Dissapointed.

with Mick.
oread 08/Jun/14 Lead

Ground Up, should have been O/S

dom94 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 05/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Dom
al123 ?/Jun/14 2nd
with Henry
hervenuttall ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Elliot
Andy Fielding 18/May/14 2nd
with James Kauntze
ashtond6 16/May/14 2nd

didn't finish due to tendon playing up :(

Hidden 16/May/14 Lead rpt
Gabe Oliver 05/May/14 Lead rpt

Fluffed first time. Pulled ropes. Clean ground up. Quality route, had to dyno for the jug on the lip!

the power 03/May/14 Lead dnf
LJC 24/Mar/14 Lead RP

Ground up second go.

with George
amccann 12/Mar/14 2nd β

After falling on lead.

ClemB 12/Mar/14 2nd
MSchobitz 12/Mar/14 Lead dog
Matthew Ferrier 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Good start to a bad day.

with Clem
phildawson 09/Mar/14 2nd dog
tim newton 09/Mar/14 Lead β
Goose4 08/Mar/14 Lead β
with Charlotte King, Tom Adams, Euan McKendrick
McKEuan 08/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Jan/14 Lead dnf
Chris M ??/2014 AltLd
with John B
Bob ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 ??/2014 Lead rpt

what a treat to find this easey now:-)

Andy Peak 1 ??/2014 Lead rpt

what a treat to find this easey now:-)

mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
JamesTurnbull97 26/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Stiff for E1, but that's Curbar

Dave Turnbull 26/Dec/13 2nd
ashtond6 07/Dec/13 2nd

Felt hard at grade, couldn't feel fingers

Hidden 07/Dec/13 Lead dog
snapperdan 30/Nov/13 2nd dog
bwestwood 25/Nov/13 Lead
sarpedon 17/Nov/13 2nd dog

Had to rest after matching the crux-exit hold, too weak.

gidmord 17/Nov/13 2nd dog
tebs 10/Nov/13 2nd rpt

Fierce warm up but at least I got up it clean. What a fantastic route

with Burns
rob.grafton 04/Nov/13 -
with Phil Evans
farkas.time 06/Oct/13 Lead dog

flailed. will go back now with beta.

with Mo Muschick, Aaron Comeault
Mike W 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 28/Sep/13 2nd rpt

Remus suggested a bat hang through the crux. Managed the hang but it didn't help at all. Pulled my back trying.

with Remus
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead RP
Mowglee 22/Sep/13 Lead dog
with Ali
sparkass 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

This felt tricky. Was constantly tensing up to prevent myself falling leftwards into space and did two dynamic moves - what!

SPD224 21/Sep/13 2nd
with Martin Smith
Haydn Jones 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with duncan
Reedymc 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

one rest on the over hang moves did second try, I don't know what the fuss was about :)

Hidden 22/Aug/13 Lead dog
Tim M 11/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Richard W
claregardiner 21/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Totally goosed from the start. Too psyched for my own good.

with Jenny
Alex Winter 02/Jun/13 Lead

Found the groove pretty awkward, and the pull from the jug is harder than it looks.

with A. Monks, M. Gibbings, J. Iles-Smith
Dan Mckinlay ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
James Oakes 27/May/13 Lead RP

Fell off crux ages ago.

Hidden 27/May/13 2nd dog
sopaz 26/May/13 2nd dog
with Mackie
Stuart Johnston 26/May/13 Lead dog

Got a little pumped on the lower crack, reached the jug on the arÍte and then didn't have the juice to crank through. Second go skipped the arÍte and went for a finger lock on the corner crack. Much easier!

with Sadie Renwick
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd rpt
Tez29 26/May/13 Lead RP
jwpil 25/May/13 2nd O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead rpt
Rachel Slater 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Awesome route! Almost skipped the big jug but then went for it because the fingerlocks felt painful.

Olli-C 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Much harder than I expected, crux move for me was at the bottom going up from the good flat hold on the right. The groove felt hard and I had to throw the cam in the undercut away because I couldn't get the undercut any other way. Not climbing well.

Chi Cheng 30/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Tim Rodgers 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
ashtond6 01/Mar/13 Lead dnf

bad rush, 10 mins to darkness

bencoope 02/Feb/13 -
Hidden 24/Nov/12 2nd rpt
Chris_barr 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 03/Nov/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead dog
phil64 19/Oct/12 Lead


with tim neill
gidmord 14/Oct/12 Lead dog
Lauren Davies 14/Oct/12 2nd
with Gideon Mordecai
J.Wells 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
lithos 29/Sep/12 2nd
with pete harris
barni 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ewan
Hidden 13/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Goose U 08/Sep/12 2nd β


Lunar25 31/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dave LE
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
shouter 16/Aug/12 Lead
redjerry ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Williams
Dan Geh 28/Jul/12 2nd β

Learnt from Tom, went for the finger-lock and bridged it. Not too hard for 5b, but quite hard to read.

tgeh 28/Jul/12 Lead RP

easy when you know how

with adam jordan, dan geh
AMJ098 28/Jul/12 -
with Dan Geh
ianjfsutcliffe 21/Jul/12 Lead

1 fall.

with Courty
M_W_Court 21/Jul/12 Lead
with Dave Luke, ian sutcliffe
Richard P Coates 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Courty
hippymagic 03/Jul/12 TR dnf
with Rob, Pete Barrass
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead RP
oliver.ghill91 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
manwithacam 09/Jun/12 Lead

Toproped up to crux on Alans gear, so lots of help and lots of beta, and didnt have to put in any gear

with Alan
robertmichaeladams 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Andy H
a_hein 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
charley 03/May/12 2nd dog

What a route, some real nice moves. Didn't like the start but enjoyed the rest. Felt quite off-balanced for most of it. Popped off on the swing before the jug. At the time it felt that rope was too tight and pulled me off but saying that, there was no way I could of got the last two bits of gear out without resting on the rope - knackering!!! Not sure I would want to try this on lead just yet...

with JackD, Ange
Jackwd 03/May/12 Lead dog

Curbar spanked me!

valentinesbabe 03/May/12 TR dog

Slipped off half way up the initial section so lowered down and started again. On sectond attempt got up to crux clean and stopped for the obligatory photo hanging from the jug but then to pumped to get the hold in the groove. Awesome climb...would like to repeat and try to get it clean. Found it quite hard for an E1 but it's not my style of climb.

Jim Slater 30/Apr/12 Lead dog

Not a chance! The crux of this climb punishes the heavier climber, a good strength to weight ratio is a major help.

with Trevor Wilson
nickmattia 21/Apr/12 2nd
deacondeacon 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 25/Mar/12 Lead
with Thomas Renshaw
chrism225 21/Mar/12 Lead dog

Just got scared, easy when you commit.

james.slater 18/Mar/12 2nd RP

Fell off from the jug!! Too pumped after the groove, so seconded Joss after he cleaned up!

Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd
tomhull 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Callum, Chris Plant
monsteratt 10/Mar/12 Lead dog

Got pumped in the groove. Flung for the last jug couldn't stick it. Doh would have been all over.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 10/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hannes B 09/Mar/12 2nd
with Tom
john lynch 10/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with adam harrison
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
kingholmesy ??/2012 Lead O/S
admackie ??/2012 -
clmbr 11/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with mr g walters
Hidden 02/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Alex@home 02/Dec/11 2nd rpt
with Dave
thrutch 27/Nov/11 TR
with Ryan
peaches69 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with connor
w.pettet-smith ?/Nov/11 -
with ben
Andy Peak 1 30/Oct/11 Lead
with mark longrige
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead
Cragrat Rich 29/Oct/11 Lead

Clean lead 5 years after a couple of failures. Features a spot of mental cranking... be it either on a flat 'jug' or a tight but nice finger lock. Not a push-over either way!

Hidden 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 28/Oct/11 2nd rpt


Tom Redmond 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

quality route!!! definatly deserved 3 stars!! moves felt easy but need tom improve stamina

with dave bowler
Drew M 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 02/Oct/11 Lead dog

2-0 to L'Horla now. Flu was today's excuse. Had the right size cam this time but had to rest on it. Placing the cam and the neighbouring 3/4 nut felt like the crux, very awkward. Final moves easy once depumped.

with Max & Sam
Nevil 18/Sep/11 Lead
Stuart William 10/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Ran out of energy faffing about under the roof and got a little beat up by the fall. Will be back to finish it when I've healed.

with Matt Reynolds
Jonathan Hall 03/Sep/11 Lead

So fun, and pleased to get onsight.

disturbed_one51 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Wee man
simeclimb68 24/Aug/11 Lead rpt
sgl0jd 24/Aug/11 -
tom.ireson 21/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Tried this before when wet and got spat off the crux. Second go with dry rock and the right gear, loved it!

with George Newham
stephenhartley 20/Aug/11 2nd
with Burns
Matt Cooke 13/Aug/11 2nd β
Budge 29/Jul/11 Lead dog
dangerousoldfool 29/Jul/11 2nd
with Budge
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jack Loftus 28/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Nick
Hidden 20/Jul/11 2nd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 20/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with loundsy
Nick1812P 11/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Jamie
JamieSparkes 11/Jul/11 Lead β

forgot the big cam - oops.

with Nick
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead β
henry peter jenkins 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with paul jones
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Nick Rundall 05/Jul/11 Lead dnf
with Jon Pemberton
Glenn Sutcliffe 03/Jul/11 -
with Pete Cresswell
ChrisBrooke 02/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Peter Staves
gingerwolf 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/11 Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad 12/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with loundsy
Fran S8 05/Jun/11 Lead
robman 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Only Just

with john ayrton
Gazleah ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with henry jenkins
Ahab ?/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hannes B 31/May/11 2nd
with Emlyn
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd dog
al123 27/May/11 Lead O/S

hard, but so good

with hannes
Jus 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jake Shaw
psychicbread 15/May/11 2nd O/S
with Max
JRae 06/May/11 Lead dog

One rest at the jug. Not enough steam left for the long reach.

with Paul M
pmurdy 06/May/11 2nd
with Jonny Reay
tebs 04/May/11 2nd rpt

I'm not climbing well on roasting hot grit at the moment - slipped off a couple of moves up, lowered to the floor and started again just so this logbook wouldn't have yet another grey entry!

with Jon
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Audrey Seguy ?/May/11 Lead β
Andrew Sloan 29/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Martin had first crack at it but fell at crux and lowered off. I tried going up but incredibly warm and humid and I failed to reach his highpoint. Suffered the ignominy of abseiling in to retreive gear.

Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead dog
DavidR 17/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Mr Sparkle 09/Apr/11 2nd RP
with Slim
Dave Turnbull, BMC 03/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Neil Foster
Hidden 03/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Joe Grondowski 02/Apr/11 Lead
with Lewis Andrew
highrepute 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf
coombsy 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Took time placing a couple of wires lower down and got a bit tired. Placed the cam in the big slot, downclimbed a couple of moves and rested for 2 before going for it. Got the jug ok but first effort for top saw me cut loose with right toe slippin off where I was tryin to rock over. Ebbing strength so thought sack it and laid one on. Got the top (just) and laughed lots. What an awesome route!!!!

with John B
masa-alpin 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf

The crux was 2ft above what I'd believed to be the one - 1st mistake. I didn't bother checking the in-situ gear, which was the last gear - 2nd mistake. Panicked - 3rd mistake. Misestimated the size of the pro in an attempt of placing the gear at the most strenuous position - 4th mistake. My foot slipped - 5th mistake. The consequence was a bad abrasion and fair bit of bleeding from a finger as a result of a fall. Gutted for the failure...

with Doug S
Ollie B 23/Mar/11 Lead β

came off from the first hold on the arete, lowered pulled ropes and did clean. Didnt have much in the arms first time round.

with M.Rankine
Giles1 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Sam
Sam Cooke 20/Mar/11 2nd dog
BeccaSnowden 06/Mar/11 Lead dog

Had to rest at the crux, took me a couple of goes to figure out the sequence. Awesome when I managed it though! (On Mike's gear)

with Mike
Jonas Paulsson 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice Route.

with Oskar Alexandersson
thomasadixon 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Good route.

with Mike, Becca
Mike Goldthorp 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Pulled up to fingerlock in the groove as opposed to swingin onto the left arete, bunched but not so strenuous I imagine.

bigie bob 01/Mar/11 Solo O/S
gazfellows 24/Feb/11 Lead

Brilliant route, but fell off just after pulling through to the top off the jug, then as my arms gained a little strength back after just exploding from the biggest pump ever i finished it off... Maybe next time... Arrrrrrrr.....

Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 22/Jan/11 Lead dog

Met Jas who told me to 'yard' though it. Tried and fell off (unfit as foyk), tried a few more times then decided to go for much more pleasant fingerlock and highfoot...stick to what you know!

with Tom Nichols, HuwGoodal
Hidden 22/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
RM199 ??/2011 2nd dog
mwatson ??/2011 -
GuyM ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd β
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead dnf
benkelsey 20/Nov/10 2nd O/S

lead up to roof, gained big jug didnt commit, and seconded alun instead. easy but powerful.

with Allun, Remus Knowles
stuart34 14/Nov/10 2nd
crispyboy 14/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with inchley
FlorianCastagne 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 07/Nov/10 Lead RP
bigdrew 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Mark R
mark20 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S


robin_hackney 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Nice route that included a variety of climbing. 2 hard moves making it feel rewarding (and a bit desperate as I recall).

Dave Foster 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Dropped the top. Ground up second go. Not hard, just awkward and a bit pumpy.

with Robin
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Abevan 02/Oct/10 Lead
with james walker
Hidden ?/Oct/10 Lead dog
Cake 25/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Didn't even get to leap for the jug.

with Matt
Pown 22/Sep/10 2nd O/S
PeteH 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
mikeski 21/Sep/10 2nd
with PeteH
Laurence Everitt 18/Sep/10 2nd RP
with Mark D
Mark D 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
gingerwolf 17/Sep/10 Lead RP

fell off at overhang - too pumped!

Chi Cheng 17/Sep/10 Lead dog

Got too pumped trying to place gear in the groove off the jug. Did not a the right size hex or cam to fit into the notch.

petellis 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S


jkarran 12/Sep/10 Lead

Less steep than expected. Perfect overhead gear and good, never-too-hard moves, would really reward a positive/bold approach especially around the bulge but it's just too tempting to keep plugging the gear in!

with Bex, Pete
brian watson 06/Sep/10 Lead dog
pie_eater_pete 05/Sep/10 Lead
chrisallan 05/Sep/10 2nd dog
davewsargent 05/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/10 2nd O/S
joese7en 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 12/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Phil
Graeme Hammond 07/Aug/10 Lead rpt

third time lucky :D Felt a much better route for doing it clean, finished with a gusto leap for the jug, 110% commitment this lime paid off as well as using using the hold under the roof made the move left to the photo jug so much easier

highlux ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
max_chan 31/Jul/10 Lead dog

Nearly. Got it second try.

with Phil PCC, Steve Carty
chrisbussell 27/Jul/10 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 25/Jul/10 TR β
Tony Holdsworth 24/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Martin Haworth, Peter Harris
maxkellock 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Hannes
Hannes B 22/Jul/10 Lead dog

g up 1 f

with Max K
Nick1812P 11/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Jamie
JamieSparkes 11/Jul/10 Lead dog

fell with fingers on the finishing hold, not impressed, should've dug deeper. will get it next time.

theotherpetehill 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nearly fell off and most of the gear fell out

hellboundblr 04/Jul/10 2nd dog

1 rest to remove awkward wire.

with Tony Madden
tebs 30/May/10 Lead rpt

Quelle journee admirable! Ground up after running out of juice on the jug 1st time round. Should have onsighted really, kept trying to find an easier way to do the big move, second time round it was a case of manning up and cranking away.

with Mike
Graeme Hammond 28/May/10 Lead dog

much easier in cooler condition until... I suddenly ran out of energy pulling up on the jug... the excuses... should have locked off first go and been on the top :( but it must have been a bad evening as even the VSs felt hard :o pissed of is this route my new nemesis?

Hidden 21/May/10 Lead dog
davefount 16/May/10 2nd dog

feeling battered after the pod.

Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 24/Apr/10 Lead dog

What an idiot! hot gritstone and me don't mix, slipped off from the notch and ripped all but the top piece of gear, lowered off and pulled the ropes and went straight up again but then had to have a rest instead VERY PISSED OFF

with Tony
DannyK 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic route - loved it!

with pep
Andy Moles 21/Apr/10 2nd
with Neil, Ferdia
ferdia 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Neil, Andy
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Falko 17/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Al W.
Harry Holmes 15/Apr/10 2nd
with Fergus Cuthill
Fergus Cuthill 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
DuncanR 14/Apr/10 Lead
with Nick Taylor
migs493 12/Apr/10 2nd
with Dan
Daniel Heath 12/Apr/10 Lead dog

Gutted, I faffed around and rested on the friend 3.5. Should have gone for the final arete the first time.

Hardonicus 10/Apr/10 2nd dog

Followed Nick after he aided it! Had to take a rest to remove jammed nut lower down. It's all there but hard.

with nick a
Alex Thompson 10/Apr/10 TR dog

Took a slump on the rock-over reach to the arete.

with Nick Allen
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead RP
Phil Jennings 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
oliwarlow 04/Apr/10 Lead

great route. definitely worth doing the finish out on the arete

with Polly
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Jeff Hollenbaugh
JimR 18/Mar/10 -
Chubbard 18/Mar/10 Lead RP

Floundered at the jug. Really hard.

Hidden 12/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead rpt
david morse 28/Oct/09 Lead β
with steve+cliff
HeatherF 17/Oct/09 TR O/S
with Jake
dmoir 16/Oct/09 Lead O/S
melonmike 14/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
garburn ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 26/Sep/09 2nd
with Debbie, loundsy
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead RP
nige 26/Sep/09 Lead
with sven rowan, dave parton
Hidden 15/Sep/09 Lead
danm 14/Sep/09 2nd
with Ed Thatcher
burto 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with calum
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Joe Costello 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd dog
Rachel S 16/Aug/09 2nd
mike reed 16/Aug/09 Lead
duzinga 15/Aug/09 2nd O/S

standing to remove gear was very tough under the overhang.

with Pete Harris
Hidden 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Marti999 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 22/Jul/09 2nd dog
with Marti
Hidden 08/Jul/09 2nd
ChuckstarUK 21/Jun/09 2nd dnf

Rob's lead. Couldn't get going. Horrible!

with Nicola and Rob
nai 18/Jun/09 2nd
with Mel
chris sm 12/Jun/09 Lead dog

Hmmmm. Wussed the top.

with Pippa Froggatt
steveb2006 10/Jun/09 Lead

Roland manages to lead Toy after but rain starts so dont second and he abbs for the gear

with Roland Smith
gordonday 20/May/09 Lead rpt
with clive
tallsop ?/May/09 Lead

Good route, over too soon, not that hard really. Very cold and windy morning

with Dave Saxby
Stig 29/Apr/09 Lead dog

Second failure, three years after last attempt. Cannot actually do the jug move (height?), climbed groove instead.

with james oswald
Kyuzo 12/Apr/09 2nd
with Joe Prinold
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead dog
Andrew Sloan 26/Mar/09 Lead dog

One rest at crux, should go clean next time.

with scott
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/09 2nd
Chi Cheng ?/Mar/09 2nd dog
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with R Smitton
Si dH 28/Feb/09 2nd rpt

Quite pleased to get it without resting, remembering how I hard I found trying to lead it a couple of years ago! Really really hard for E1. Neilhad one rest just under the roof where it's v awkward.

with Neil Furniss
Harald 28/Feb/09 Lead β
Byronius Maximus 24/Jan/09 2nd
Twisty 24/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Excellent route, quite a tough bottom to be fair, but excellent jug pulling and posing for the non existant camera!

with Byron Buck
Matt Fry 17/Dec/08 Lead RP

Fell off ages ago with cold hands, 1st go today! Brill route!

Hidden 22/Nov/08 2nd
Hidden 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Tez29 16/Nov/08 Lead dog
with Mousey
Hidden 26/Oct/08 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Oct/08 Lead dog
lowersharpnose 16/Oct/08 Lead rpt
with Jim Walton, postmanpat
Dan 85 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Tats
Hidden 10/Oct/08 Lead O/S
tatz45 ?/Oct/08 Lead rpt
Mr Wild 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Greg
felixthelion 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Didn't read the book, didn't take crucial friend. had to get it thrown up while poised under the roof in very awkward position. Brilliant climbing through the overlap and onto the arete.

Ben Harper 27/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Andy Webster
lukea 27/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with felix
Hidden 17/Sep/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 17/Sep/08 Lead dnf
jonnyboy 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

over too soon.

with Jody Newman
al99 31/Aug/08 Lead dog
martinazando 31/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 25/Aug/08 Lead β
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 25/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Misha 16/Aug/08 Lead dog

Slipped going for the undercut and then had to rest at the jug

ASchwirtz 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S
M_W_Court 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Brown 24/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
Hidden 13/Jul/08 -
Nicos 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/08 2nd dnf
MYSSAK 25/May/08 Lead O/S
Tom Last 14/May/08 Lead dnf


with EAYL
DavidR 10/May/08 2nd O/S
clive-greenwood 10/May/08 Lead RP
with Gareth LMC
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead O/S
v.jester 07/May/08 Lead β
with guy
Andrew Barker 28/Feb/08 2nd O/S

I thought this was pertty hard, mind you it was the warm-up for the day and I was cold, plus I spent a good few minutes trying to furtle a cam out below the overlap.

with Nick Rabb
Chazz 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Dave Naylor
Pete Graham 09/Feb/08 Lead
with Luke Porter
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
joe larner 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Climbed crapily today it all went down hill after doing this as my first climb and getting really quite pumped. Crux seems to be placing the gear, the climbing isn't too bad.

OffshoreAndy 18/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with NCC Nic
jimbonfire 15/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
max_chan 12/Aug/07 TR β

Ouch. Backed off and ended up toproping to get gear back.

with Steve
lukea 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rich
Castleclimber 11/Aug/07 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Aug/07 Lead dog
Oliver Sherman 04/Aug/07 Lead dog

Rested after trying to pull up to the jug. Either should have placed less gear and gone for it, or just tried harder...

with Sophie Whyte
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
mattyork2 24/Jun/07 Lead RP

Fell off last move onto the bomber cam. Same again next time, and nailed it with a big momentum move third time lucky. Awesome, awesome route, felt really burly for e1 but then it is curbar! phsyce

with Olly Pollard
cem 17/Jun/07 Lead dnf
with Natasha Geere
Hidden 05/Jun/07 Lead rpt
Coel Hellier 02/Jun/07 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 02/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Steerpike 19/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Dean
Coel Hellier 01/Apr/07 Lead dog

Fell off crux; completed after rest

Apharri ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Andre Hedger
shark 14/Jan/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
steve taylor ??/2007 -
John Lisle ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
alaan 09/Dec/06 Lead O/S


with Ally
waltersp 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Liam
feilx 14/Oct/06 2nd
dannyboy83 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
ron244 09/Sep/06 2nd β
with Ali
Stig 27/Aug/06 Lead dog
with Karl Walton
Owen W-G 06/Aug/06 Lead dnf

Got spooked and backed off when I discovered my no 3 friend was a bit baggy

with Simon Denison
Ram MkiV 05/Aug/06 Lead

took a rest on this years ago. Finally came back and led it clean. good route.

with Alex Mason
reg_measures 24/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Jorge
Alex Mason 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S

straight after peapod. another awsome route, barndoory all the way crux went quite easily, but an unrelenting little route 3*

loonyclimber 18/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Alex
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead dog
steveb2006 10/May/06 Lead

Rest at the roof

with Roland Smith
Garan 25/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Sensational 'cut loose' at big jug on arete.

with Iain Fisher
Dave Bond 19/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Benjones45_99 ?/Feb/06 2nd dog
with Rob Adie
timbanton ?/Feb/06 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd β
with reeeve
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead dog
with Andy N
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/2006 Lead O/S
with nigel
Hidden ??/2006 -
Paul Evans 29/Oct/05 Lead RP
Pythonist 28/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Teddington
reg_measures 19/Jun/05 2nd rpt
with steve burdett
cem 22/May/05 2nd
with Dan Muldoon
frost ?/Apr/05 2nd
with D Garry
Daniel Armitage 06/Feb/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Chris M ??/2005 -
reg_measures 14/Nov/04 2nd O/S
with Torran Elson
Hidden 06/Sep/04 Lead O/S
steveb2006 17/Jul/04 Lead

After failing on Elder Crack!

cornishben ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Gavin Edwards
loonyclimber ?/Jul/03 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd dog
Hidden 05/May/03 2nd rpt
johnboyrevel ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Hazel
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2003 -
Hidden 24/Nov/02 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jun/02 Lead dog

2 falls on crux

with Joe Brown
Hidden 16/May/02 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/02 Lead dog
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 -
chrishedgehog 09/Dec/01 Lead O/S
with Clare Wilkie
Hidden 27/Oct/01 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Oct/01 Lead dog
BruceW 11/Sep/01 Lead dog
with Ray
sadams 09/Sep/01 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 13/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/01 Lead
Martin Bennett 31/May/01 -
with Phil
steveb2006 30/May/01 2nd

Roland leads

with Dave Taylor, Roland Smith
CrashMat Rob 27/Dec/00 TR
with Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky
D Tempest ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Rick
tlr ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dnf
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/99 Lead
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 -
CrashMat Rob 11/Jul/99 Lead dog
with Nicky
Hidden 04/Jul/99 2nd
steveb2006 07/Jul/98 Lead
with Rob Gambles
Hidden 04/Jul/98 Lead
WB 23/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Lee
Billg 14/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with Paul Guttridge
Hidden 08/Mar/97 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1997 -
kp64zl ?/Oct/96 Lead dog
with Kirsten
Hidden 06/Jun/96 2nd
Simon cook ?/Jun/96 -
ste_d 16/May/96 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 16/May/96 2nd O/S
steveb2006 14/May/96 Lead
with Rob Gambles
robtrooper ??/1996 Lead O/S
Laramadness 21/Oct/95 Lead dog
Laramadness 21/Oct/95 Lead dog
PaulTanton ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ?/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/95 Lead
leadmat ?/Apr/95 -
nai ??/1995 Lead
Rich Kirby ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
steveb2006 23/Aug/94 2nd

Gareth led after a fashion, Jo and I second

with Jo Pycroft
Hidden 20/Aug/94 Lead
michael burrows 09/Jul/94 2nd
with andy boorman
Hidden ?/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/93 Lead
steveb2006 08/Aug/93 Lead
with Simon Mee
rob.grafton 27/Sep/92 Lead
with Bruce
steveb2006 07/Jun/92 Lead dog

Struggling after no hard climbing for over 2 weeks. Fall twice and end up resting on gear

with Tony Thorley, Ian Cartwright
Cowflinger 26/May/92 TR
Chris Reid ?/Feb/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/91 Lead O/S
whispering nic 20/Apr/91 Lead
with Ali W
NickJH ??/1991 -
Dave Musgrove 09/Sep/90 2nd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Sep/90 Lead
with Dad
charlesmfrench 21/Aug/90 Lead O/S
keefe 15/Jul/90 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 15/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
Roget 19/May/90 Lead G/U
with jim
John Marsland 22/Apr/90 2nd
with Allen Newby
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 16/Sep/89 Lead O/S
Backinthegame 09/Apr/89 2nd
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead dog
BigHairyIan 19/Nov/88 2nd O/S
with Tufty (Stewart Moffat)
Neil R 14/Aug/88 2nd
with Ian
Stoney Boy 15/Jun/88 Lead O/S
mark-abz 31/Aug/87 TR
with Andy W
Hidden 15/Aug/87 Lead
John Marsland 20/Jun/87 2nd
with Eduardo Martinez
Hidden 24/May/87 2nd O/S
steveb2006 16/Jul/86 Lead

Restarted after falling off

with Mervyn Dudley
Tim Bateman 18/May/86 Lead
with Dave Leadbetter
Mike Owen 19/Mar/86 -
with Elaine Owen
shark 23/Sep/85 Lead O/S
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
uphillnow ??/1985 2nd
with Neil McNab
steve L 14/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Bruce Kerr 06/Apr/84 Lead
with Rab Young
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
stp 20/Mar/83 Lead O/S
DPaul 21/Jul/81 Lead O/S
with s.brown
Hammy 12/Jul/81 2nd
with Simon Cardy
Andy Fielding ??/1981 TR
Dave Musgrove 22/Jun/80 Lead
with Kim Greenald
Hidden ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/80 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
KRB 30/Jun/79 Lead O/S

Saved the one-handed dangle for next time once I knew I could get up it.

with Mike Bridges
Mark Kemball 13/May/79 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1977 2nd O/S
with Tom Barbour
andy gittins ??/1972 -
clanger ??/1972 -
Hidden 01/Jul/69 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mattlyons, Keith Swainson, Longsufferingropeholder, Hexman, Mike505, MYox, Will Mortimer, Bernie L, Sam McCarthy, Calum Wadsworth, hthom, Geoff82, najki_2000, gdjcoleman, Hidden, Hidden, hellboundblr, mapperley samurai, MatthewH, hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Joe-98, spidermonkey09, Broom136, adie84, Hidden, Munir Hassan, SamWimpenny, Martin Davies, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mfisher, Hidden, Jon_dL, Hidden, Hidden, ian2707, Helen Gibson, Hidden, pabbage, Maken, Dean177, ChrisBrooke, Aufton, climbinmunkey, Justaname, pigeonslipper, lazybones, Alan100, tgeh, senusert, Laramadness, Andreas.Klaedtke, Hidden, waynem1985, Calder, seankenny, jak.kelly, alias dave, Neil Mackenzie, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, Alex.M-M., Michael Hood, Hidden, BWoodward, Mr Tickle, rustaldo, gingerwolf, catblack, LankyPaddy, Hidden, Jonathan Hall, Hidden, samrad, Hidden, Shauna, tommo1664, Hidden, jtree03, Sam1991, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Woodiee, Hidden, andymoin, Oddjob, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dave Mason, tommytwotone, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, MikeLeeds, Hidden, Peakology, Mike H, climbingrick, Hidden, adam carless, Hidden, Hidden, Pem, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 141
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 134
Votes cast 123
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set