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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SK 254754 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 10/Aug/2010

Curbar Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 496 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Varies from small, sometimes vegetated buttresses, to some of the finest walls on gritstone, up to 23m high. Known as the 'Cloggy of the Peak' because of the high number of hard climbs. Tradition maintained with several routes of E7 and above,such as the already classic, End of the Affair (E8 6c), and the hardest, Doctor Doolittle (E10 7a) the other E10 on grit. Specialities include poorly protected walls/slabs and savage well protected cracks. Best routes are Two Pitch Route (VS 4c), The Peapod (HVS 5b), L'Horla (E1 5b), Elder Crack (E2 5b), Profit of Doom (E4 6b) and Linden (E6 6b). All the 'Moon' routes should be on your dream list.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 BEECH BUTTRESS  
2Angular CrackS 13
3Beech ButtressVS 4c 83
4Beech Buttress DirectE1 5a 21
5Beech GullyD *39
6Don't Slip NowE5 6a *17
7Thought CactusE1 5b 13
8SundayHVS 5a 12
9AmethystVS 4c 73
10Campion GrooveHS 4a 60
11Campion WallVS 4c 104
12Campion Wall DirectHVS 5c *3
13GroansHVS 5a 11
14Smiling JennyVS 4c 7
15DiveVS 4b 39
16Port WineVS 4c 46
 GREEN ACRES  
18Pillar SlabD *99
19Happy HouseHVS 5c *24
20Short ButtressVS 4c 9
21Short ChimneyS 11
22Short CrackS 7
23Blue HawaiiE3 6b *9
24Green AcresE1 5b *171
25Short SlabHVS 5a *206
26Short MeasureD 36
 BEECH LAYBACK  
28Black Silk on White SatinHS 4c 15
29The AreteS 4b 62
30Beech LaybackVS 4c 23
31Hanging CrackVS 4b 7
32Boa CrackVD 19
33Reynard's CrackHVD 19
34The WelcomeE1 5b 9
35Heron WallD 20
 THE LINE  
37ThinVS 4c 56
38Slack CrackVD 39
39The LineHVS 5a *74
40CB VariantS 3c 10
 DEADBAY GROOVE  
42Twilight CrackVS 4c *13
43Deadbay Groove DirectE3 6a **2
44Deadbay GrooveE2 5b 6
45Deadbay CrackE1 5b 30
46CrumbleHVS 4c 1
47Battered (formerly Sed's Crack)VS 5a 3
48Three Point TurnHVS 5a 11
49Rumble wallVS 4c 8
50Death on a stickHVS 4a 2
51Boots in the woodsE3 6a 1
 THE CIOCH  
53King of CrookriseE4 6a *1
54Cioch Left HandHVS 4c *14
55Flea circusE2 5c *9
56Cioch VariationsE1 5c **3
57Cioch CrackVS 4b **85
58Cioch WallS 4a **44
59The Bear HunterE1 5b 75
60Duggie's DilemmaVS 4c 9
 TREE WALL  
62Tree WallHVS 5a **78
63LithuaniaE2 5c 3
64Heather WallVS 4c *39
65Staring at the Rude BoysE1 5b *6
66Wall EndVS 4b 26
 MOON BUTTRESS  
68Black Nix WallE1 5c *96
69Mastiff WallVS 4c *138
70Camel TicksE3 6a 2
71Rat ScabiesE4 6b *26
72Bulldog CrackS 4b *49
73John's AreteE1 5b *23
74Derwent GrooveS 4a 20
75Derwent Groove (Left hand variation)HVD 3
76Cool MoonE7 6c ***11
77Moon WalkE4 6a ***120
78Moon CrackE5 6b **34
79Crack and SlabE7 7a * 
80Moon MadnessE7 6c *1
81Sorrell's SorrowHVS 5a ***153
82Mr SofteeE1 6a 13
83The End of the AffairE8 6c ***22
84Cloud Cuckoo Landf7A+ **20
85Amphitheatre CrackD **39
86Gladiator ButtressHS 4b 52
 APOLLO BUTTRESS  
88Hidden PleasuresE3 6a 2
89Twin CrackS 4a 28
90Straight CrackVD 42
91Ulysses or BustE5 6b **19
92The Unreachable StarE3 6a *57
93Dog Leg CrackVD **188
94Dirty SanchezE1 5c *7
95Glad TidingsHVS 5a 13
96Buckle's SisterS 4a 53
97Buckle's BrotherHVS 4c 6
98Buckle's CrackHVS 4c 6
99SoyuzE2 5c **129
100Soyuz DirectE2 5c 12
101Dark EntriesE4 6a *8
102Forbidden PlanetE4 6b **8
103ApolloE2 5c **52
104Two Pitch RouteVS 4c **74
105The Arse of Japanf7A 7
106Art of Japanf6C 6b **51
107The League of GentlemanE6 6b * 
108The Beer HunterE3 6a *10
109Two BeersVS 5a *1
110Combat les PelliculesHVS 5c 1
111For the Good of the CauseE4 6b * 
112The Big RockerVS 4c 11
113Rocky Horror ShowE6 6b *3
114Body TorqueE3 5c 3
115MensaE6 6b **2
 THE BRAIN  
117The BrainVS 4c **275
118OblongataS 20
119Amphitheatre ChimneyS 7
120Birthday CrackVS 4c 33
121King of the SwingersE5 6c *1
122King LouisE6 6c * 
123Diet of WormsE4 6a *24
124SlackersE6 6b **15
125Birthday GrooveE1 5c *21
126The MaskE1 6b *9
127Gordon Brown SuperheroE1 5a 5
128CrowbarVS 5b 9
129Flake CrackHS 4
130HumdrumHVS 5a 6
131Foaming jugHVS 5b 7
132BlackE1 5b 13
133TanHVS 5a 6
 OVERTAKER'S BUTTRESS  
135Overtaking on the OutsideS 4a 20
136Overtaker's ButtressHVS 5b *18
137Overtaker's DirectE3 5c 16
138SnorterE4 6b 1
139White LinesE7 6b ***5
140Free WayE5 6b **2
141Right Triplet GullyVD 16
142LifeseekerE4 6b *5
143FidgetE1 6a *22
144Rise of the RobotsHVS 5b 34
 POTTER'S WALL  
146Mad HatterE2 5c *31
147Potter's WallHS 4b **256
148Circus of DinosaursHVS 5a 15
149Grooved AreteVS 4c *105
150Short CircuitVS 4b 7
151Diddlum WallVS 5a 32
152Honest JohnHVS 5a 31
153Knacker ManVS 4b 3
154Little LaybackVD 18
155Mirror ImageHVS 5a 6
156The ScoopE2 5b 7
157Allen's CrackD 12
 BARON'S WALL  
159LamebrainE1 5b *64
160Suspect IntellectHVS 5a *49
161Allen's ClimbD *24
162Squint StartHVS 5a 9
163Smoke ont' WatterE1 6a *131
164Smoke ont' Water Startf6A+ 22
165Problem between Smoke ont' Watter and Baron's WallV4 6b **11
166Baron's WallHVS 5b *254
167Baron's Wall Startf6A 14
168Baron's DirectV3 6a 16
169BizE1 5b 2
 CALVER WALL  
171BlockheadVS 4c 15
172Sweet Gene VincentHVS 5b *29
173SaddyE2 5c **61
174Wall ClimbVS 5a *281
175Top SecretE1 5c 15
176Calver ChimneyM 36
177ColossusE2 5b 15
178Vaguely GreatE1 5c *6
179Calver WallVS 5a *217
180Brindle CrackHS 4b *181
181Polar CrackVS *87
182Arctic NoseS 32
183BetwixtE1 5a *9
184The CornerHVS 5b 55
185Flying ButtressS 4a *282
186Flying Buttress RightS 4a *261
187U.F.O.VS 4a 46
188Confidence TrickE2 5c 2
189LitreageHS 4b 4
190Ling CrackS 4b 8
191Cardinal's Backbone IIE3 5c 3
192SuperhandsE7 6b **1
193VainE3 5b 7
 KAYAK SLAB  
195Inch CrackVS 4b 69
196Little InnominateHVS 5a 77
197LeptonE2 6b 27
198AmyHS 4a 63
199RapidE1 5c 4
200KayakE2 5b **520
201Finger DistanceE3 6b *122
202El Vino CollapsoE5 6b 34
203CanoeE3 6a 181
204StopperE5 6b 10
205White WaterE6 6c *5
206Done Years AgoE3 6b *38
207Curbar CornerV0+ 5b 97
 AVALANCHE WALL  
209Portrait of a LegendE4 6b  
210Avalanche WallHVS 5a **657
211One Step BeyondE6 6b **6
212Slab and Crack (Curbar)E7 6c ***3
213Doctor DolittleE10 7a *** 
214Owl's AreteVS 4b *322
215Owl's CrackVS 4c 13
216PredatorE2 5c *83
217Argosy CrackVS 4b 49
 ELDER CRACK  
219P.M.C.1HS 4a ***738
220Profit of DoomE5 6b ***36
221Rigid DigitE5 6b ***3
222JanusE7 6b ***3
223Elder StatesmanXS 7a  
224Elder CrackE2 5b ***225
225Knockin' on Heaven's DoorE9 6c ***4
226Keeper's CrackHS 4b 59
227Bill and BenE4 6b *3
 L'HORLA  
229Peter RabbitHVS 4c *6
230Slab RouteS 4a *224
231Pretty FriendHVS 5a 6
232Bel AmiVS 4b **519
233Spray Manef7B+ 1
234Sean's Aretef7B 23
235Green Crack (Curbar)HVS 5b **173
236UsurperE4 6a **50
237LardmasterE3 5c 3
238MoonshineE5 6b **7
239EclipseE6 6b * 
240MaupassantHVS 5a **450
241L'HorlaE1 5b ***439
242InsanityE2 5c **144
243CommittedE6 6b *10
 THE TOY  
245Tin DrumE5 6b 2
246Be Bop DeluxE5 6b 3
247The ToyE1 5c **314
248PlaythingE2 5c *18
249Pretty FaceE1 5b 96
250October CrackHS 4b *313
251Shallow ChimneyVD *125
252Grey FaceVS 5a *324
253Thirst for GloryHVS 5b 56
254Pale ComplexionVS 4c 170
 THE ELIMINATES WALL  
256The Left EliminateE1 5c *87
257The ZoneE9 6c **3
258PeapodHVS 5b ***611
259Peas of MindE6 6a * 
 Climb nameGradex
260The Shape of Things to ComeE6 6b **2
261Right EliminateE3 5c ***57
262LindenE6 6b ***24
263Happy HeartE7 7a * 
264HurricaneE4 6a **11
265ScroachE2 5c **57
266HerculesE1 5a *39
267AlphaHVD *100
268StrapadifftomeE1 5c 2
269Twinkle ToesHS 4b 11
270The PugilistHS 4b 15
271Quad CrackHVS 5a 15
272Walk on Byf7C+ ***3
273Quarry climbVD 5
274Crack and FaceS 4a 20
275Crack and Face AVD 3
276Crack and Face BHS 4a 4
277Crack and Face CHD 3
278Aye For a LineVS 4c 1
279Broken ZipVD 3
 FIRST BUTTRESS  
281Late Start GullyHD 15
282Late Start Gully (through route)M 6
283CheekyS 4a 21
284NosyHS 4b 17
285Nosy GullyM 15
286Rock and RollVS 4c 3
287RoadoverHVD 22
288Rock OnVS 4b 3
289Little RockerHVD 35
290Thomas the Tanked up EngineE3 5c 42
291The Phat ControllerV3 6a 20
292Seams Simple Enoughf7A 66
 CURBAR BOULDERS  
294The Groovefont 3 118
295Left Wall Mantelfont 5+ *307
296Tracking Highf6A+ 43
297Three Pocketsfont 4+ *404
298No Pocketf6A+ *145
299No Pocket (with pocket)V0 *214
300Strawberriesf6B *493
301Track Crackfont 5 *429
302Play Hardf7C *8
303Work Hardf8A+ ***2
304Trackside Left-handf6B+ *241
305Tracksidef7A ***506
306Trackside dynof7A+ *25
307Sidetrackf7A+ *44
308Trackingf7B **9
309Trackside Peak Bouldering No. 10V0 65
310Trackside Peak Bouldering No. 14V0 112
311Peak bouldering 19V0+ 5b 39
312Peak bouldering 20V0+ 5b 39
313Peak bouldering 21V0- 4c 42
314Trackside Peak Bouldering No. 15V0- 87
315Trackside Peak Bouldering No. 16V0- 82
316Trackside traverseV0 74
317Gorilla Slab Aretefont 4 152
318Dan's Wallf7A *49
319Gorilla Slabfont 4 163
320Gorilla Groovefont 3 135
321Gorilla Off-Widthfont 5 68
322Original Warfaref7A+ ***17
323Gorilla Warfaref7A ***342
324Extended Warfaref7A ***34
325Hurricanef7C *10
326Early Doorsf7A+ *169
327Gorilla Aretef6B ***59
328Veale ThingE4 6a *30
329Fab AreteVB 5b **101
330Mini Aretefont 3 *250
331Mini Crackfont 3 236
332Mini Prowfont 5 **265
333Bad Landing Aretefont 4 9
334Bad Landing Groovefont 5 7
335Bad Landing Rooff7A 105
336Bad Landing Roof Sit-downf7C+ *2
337Pebble Wallf6A *19
338Ben's Wallf7C ***13
339Great Whitef7C ***10
340Ben's Wall Traversef6C 19
341Ben's Wall Overhangf6B 65
342Not A Jerry Traversef7A+ **1
343Not a Problem for Jerryf6C *1
344The Green Milef6C 15
345The Ultimate Gritstone Experiencef6C 70
346Touch Winkyf7B 5
347An Innocent Man *HVS 5a 1
348The Art of White Hat WearingV9 20
349Buy, buy, buy *V5 6b *33
350Pocket EliminateV7 6c **25
351The Dog's HoleV3 6a 27
352Button Moon *V2 5c *29
353Le Musée Imaginaire *f7B+ **10
354Trackside Peak Bouldering No. 13 *V1 5c *10
355Kissing the Pig *V2 5b 3
356Trackside Boulder Problem 8 (Peak Bouldering Guide) *f6B+ *3
357Big Friday *f7C *** 
358Mini Traverse *f6A 34
359FishyV1 5b 50
360Front OnV0- 4b 53
361Front CrackV0- 4a 41
362The SketchV1 5b 34
363Thin FlakeV1 5b 63
364Ledge WallV0- 4b 68
365Chimney CrackV0- 4c 63
366Dressed AreteV2 6a 61
367The Letter LV0 5a 49
368One Inch CrackV0- 4a 67
369Gorilla Wall *f6A **3
370Pockets and Pebbles *V6 6b ***4
371Burt *V3 6a **10
372Ernie *V2 5c *16
373ChippyV2 6a 35
374Flake Thin *V2 5c 4
375The Boxer *V0 5a 5
376Talon Man *f7A **8
377Sidewall Slot with Arete *V1 5c 12
378Trackside 5 *font 5 15
379Trackside 3 *font 4+ 16
380Gorrilla Warfare Slab Arete *font 4 3
381Gorrilla Warfare Slab *font 4 2
382Track Crack (Peak Bouldering - Problem 6) *V0 5a 7
383Back Slab *V2 6a 38
384Back Arete *V1 5b 42
385Crescent Slab Traverse *V3 6a 6
386Left Arete, Back face Trackside *V0- 4b 7
387Wall Left of Crack *V0- 4b 6
388Crack on Back of Trackside Boulder *V0- 4b 8
389Squat *V3 6a 13
390Dark Wall *V2 5c *36
391Reachy Wall *V5 6b 11
392Mad Era *VS 4c 10
393Happy Slapper *V0 5b 19
394Fissure Boysen *V3 6a 3
395Mister Spock *V1 5b 18
396Crispy Roof *V1 5c 15
397Last Light *V5 6b 36
398Start of the Affair *V4 6b 9
399Pigeon Arete *V3 6a 16
400Jordan's Wall *V5 6b **5
401Left Arete *V0- 4c 19
402Slot right of Mister Spock *V0- 4a 7
403Blunt arete *V0- 4c 9
404Little arete *V0- 4b 7
405Overlap from Undercuts *V0- 4c 5
406First Cleft *V0- 4b 6
407Sulu *V0- 4b 14
408Corner Mount *V0 5a 5
409Trench Hole *V0+ 5b 26
410Ringworm *V2 6a 29
411White Noise F.M. *E2 6a *4
412Be Somebody or be Somebody's Fool *f7B **2
413Gusty *V5 2
414Natural Forces *f6B+ *1
415Crescent Slab Arete *V0 5a 24
416Cresent Slab *V1 5c 29
417Diagonal *V0- 4b 23
418Mark of Respect *E5 6b 1
419The Fall *E6 6b 3
420Left Eliminette *V2 6a 8
421Downhill Gardner *f7A *8
422Crackside *V2 6a 24
423Block below Brindle Crack *V1 5c 3
424Leftism *HS 5a 6
425Dave's Unremarkable arete *HS 5a 6
426The Sheep Pit *V4 6b 7
427Bruno Mindhorn *f7B **1
428Break Out The Trumpets *f7A+ *3
429Trench Flakes *V3 *18
430Brain Variations *E2 5c 2
431I Bet He Drinks Carling Black Label *E6 6c *3
432Culture Shock *E1 5c 1
433Crack And Pockets Eliminate *f7A+ ***4
434Trackside Boulder Problem 3a (Peak Bouldering Guide) * *f7A+ *1
435The Wall *E1 6a 5
436Viet Kong. *f7B ***2
437Late Junction *f7B **21
438Sketch City *E6 6b 1
439Right Eliminette *V2 5c 3
440Scrote *V0- 5a 4
441The Short Arete (Gorilla Warfare Pit) *V2 5c 5
442Matt Black *D 4
443NeatV2 5c 10
444Little Stiffer *V2 6a 12
445Vixen *VS 4c 3
446Hopper *V1 5b 2
447Bok *E5 6b 1
448Sloper Deadpoint High Start *f7A 1
449Million Dollar Bash *E6 6b * 
450Pamela's Promenade *VB 4a 1
451Bab's Bumble *VB 4a 1
452Incestuous *E2 6a 1
453Sidewall Slot (no arete) *V2 19
454Curved Rib *font 3 19
455Hob Nob Wall *font 5+ 22
456Hob Nob Wall Direct *f6A 12
457Dressed Arete Right-Hand *font 4+ 5
458Jihad *f7B *3
459Middle T *V3 6a *3
460The Slab *font 5 *13
461Albino Arete *D 7
462Pot *E2 6a 1
463De-Extended Gorilla Doors *f7B 2
464Wee-Wob *V0+ 5b 4
465Wall left of Veale Thing *V1 5c *7
466Detoxf8A **1
467Jamie And His Magic Torch *f7B **2
468Uhuru *V1 8
469Talon Man (Peak District Bouldering)f6B 1
470Trench Wall *f6A+ 11
471A Ramp In The Woods *E1 5 1
472Ram-a-fist *VS 4c 1
473Curb your Enthusiasm *f6B *4
474Overtaking on the Inside *S 4a 2
475Happy Slapper Flake *D 3
476Hold'in it up Pedestal *HS 4b 2
477Illiostomy *VS 4b 2
478Flake Left of Happy Slapper *D 1
479Diddlum Wall Direct *E1 5b *1
480Left Arete (the trench) *V0- 4c 3
481Cioch Top Boulders A *V0- 4b 1
482Cioch Top Boulders B *V0- 4c 2
483Cioch Top Boulders C *V0- 4b 2
484Cioch Top Boulders D *V0- 4c 2
485Cioch Top Boulders E *V0- 4a 1
486Cirrus *M 1
487Steeper Than it Looks *S 4a 1
488Don't Fall Now *HS 4c 1
489Not Another Chimney *HVD 4a 1
490Corner Mount *HS 5a 1
491Toilet Corner *VD 1
492Dawson's Crack *VD 1
493O.F.U *HS 4c 2
494By The By *E5 6a **1
495Ling Wall (Curbar Edge) *VS 5c  
496Crepuscular *HS 4b 2
497Groovy Wall *font 5+ 6
498Green Crack *HVS 5b ***2
499Little Chef *E5 6b * 
500Clouded Judgement *f7A+ **7
501The Adolescent *E3 6a *1
502Humpin' Sit-startf7A 3
503Drop Your Weapons *f7C  
504Petit Jesu *f6C+ **1
505Cubism *V0 5a 1
506Wall Climb *font 4+ 1
507Peak district bouldering trackside 1 *font 3+ 1
508Peak district bouldering trackside 2 *font 3 1
509The Arete *font 4+ 4
510Break A Leg *V2 6a ***1
511Pinhead Moonstomp *E1 5b 1
512Aldi *V2 2
513Bread and Circuses *f7A ***2
514Brown and Out *f7A 1
515Stoneground *f7B+ 1
516Netto *f6A+ 1
517Lidl *font 3+ 2
518Wall Corner *S 4b 2

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Approach from the South from Curbar Gap car park (SK 261747) or from just below The Chequers Inn on the Sheffield to Calver road at SK 247760.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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