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Nowanda** HVS 5a

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[Nowanda, Gardoms, 3 kb]12m. The first crack in the south-facing wall is worth seeking out by those in search of well protected jamming - excellent stuff. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ernie Marshall 1953

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Nowanda, Gardoms © caradoc
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 145 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

switch - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Great jams and great fun
sazmaz - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Nick Mitchell

wolverine - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/13 with Thunderthighsontheloose

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/13 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 16/Apr/13 with Marti999

Short but sweet jamming route.
masa-alpin - Lead dog - 07/Apr/13 with James D

First trad fall on lead. Hit the floor. Then flashed on top rope. To be finished...
moorsy88 - Lead dog - 27/Sep/12 with David Weston

Ahab - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

TimKnight - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/12 with Richard Howard

Jenny Crook - Lead dog - 17/Jun/12 with Rob Patchett

waynem1985 - 20/May/12 with Antony Davies

max_chan - 2nd dog - 17/May/12 with Trevor PCC

quite sustained and fiddley jams near top, drew a bit of blood.
Helen Gibson - Lead - 15/May/12 with dan

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 15/May/12 with helen gibson

took one fall when a jam slipped, probably not the best warm up
Nick Rundall - Lead dog - 06/May/12 with Leon Skeldon

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/May/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 15/Jan/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Rosh

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/11

Brown - 2nd - Sep/11 with James T

riddle - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/11

Pretty tough in the heat.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Steve Grove

Hard
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - 2nd dog - 02/Jul/11 with Jon Proudfoot

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - 26/Jun/11

Glad to get this one clean!
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Patrick

Ly-Cilph - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/11 with Jim S (PCC)

riff156 - Lead dog - 05/Jun/11 with Jo Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/11

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with liv_the_div

Great fun
Cake - Lead - 20/May/11 with Matt

Definitely improved my jamming on this one (but not until taking a couple of rests on the rope).
treg - 2nd dog - 04/May/11 with Chris S

hotfeet - Lead - 01/May/11 with Ant, Wayne

waynem1985 - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Antony Davies, Alan Mountford

antdav - TR - 01/May/11 with Alan Mountford, Wayne

pudding - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with john phethean

chrisbussell - 2nd - 05/Apr/11 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

2nd attempt
alasdair19 - 2011

mwatson - 2011

GuyM - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hard work! Very strenuous and sustained. Had to rest on gear to give arms a chance to recover before moving on again. Some of the moves felt hard.
shed_hed - Lead dog - 20/Oct/10 with Jake Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10

wolverine - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Iain Mount

Backed off the lead first.
bigdrew - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/10 with Mark R

mark20 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Pown - Lead - 17/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Aug/10

awkward!!
WB - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/10 with Guy

Bex_M - 2nd - 27/Jun/10 with Duncan Dunbar

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

geddicakes - Lead dog - 20/Jun/10 with Nat

John Pickles - 2nd - 25/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - Lead β - 15/May/10

natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with OLLIE

I hate cracks!
radioactivekid - 2nd dog - 09/May/10 with Kyya

stephenhartley - 2nd - May/10 with Burns

A tough little route, thin jamming near the crux succumbed to a neat little layback move. The rest felt fairly sustained and insecure up until the two pockets. Gear's awesomely good though -- hence HVS.
brockers - Lead - 28/Apr/10 with Carole Feldman

Fell off after trying to place a poor hex where I should have put a good jam in. Got it after resting. None of the moves are that hard, but none of them are easy, and it's very sustained.
victim of mathematics - Lead dog - 17/Apr/10 with Dan Arkle, Jaime

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/10

Ketu - Lead dog - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme H, Charles M

cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/10 with Rob Truckle

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - 2010

Birdo - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Ceri Lewis

'Ard
slacky - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Owen

I missed watching Alan fall on this but I could see it would've been pumpy if I'd hung around. As it was, seconding it felt easy since I did it fast but I think leading it would've been a different story.
matthewjames - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Alan Saul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/09 with Andy Winter

Couldn't work it out,excellent bumbling.
jcurley - 2nd dog - 18/Mar/09 with Mike Buddle

keith leonard - 2009

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08

Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Duncan Bourne

A real corker in the rain, the top moves were quite tough!
al99 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/08

Maybe it was just a humid day, but this felt like a total sandbag! Very tough to get established in the jamming crack, and very steep, strenuous and hard to place gear once in it! Gave up on the lead after a couple of falls, and still had to rest on the toprope! Never HVS...
PeteH - TR dog - 01/Aug/08 with Dave Thomson

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/08 with Holly Adamthwaite

SteveM - Lead dog - 22/Jun/08 with Kat

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/08 with SteveM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/08

A tough route, the jams are ok but hard to get your hands into.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/08 with Tom Ramsden

Stig - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/07 with Jonathan Teale

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Oct/07

MONKEY78 - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with R Smitton

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 2007

Very nice route, chuffed to do it as my warm-up! Hands began to freeze just as I got to the top.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 10/Nov/06 with James Rowe

Stig - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Didn't find the 2nd pocket quick enough & slid off the slopers. Got it 2nd time round after a brief rest.
SecretSquirrel - Lead - 14/Oct/06 with adam carless

Fairly short but a good test of jamming skill.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with SecretSquirrel

Luke Brooks - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/06 with Rob Grant

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/06

feilx - Solo - 16/Sep/06

very humid day, jams slippy, fell on lead so TR to claim gear. TR okay ran for top.
baldcoder - TR RP - 02/Jul/06 with Little Old Lady

Graeme Hammond - Lead dog - 04/Jun/06 with Remmi

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/06

Jon Greengrass - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Pete Graham - Lead - 2006 with Rick Graham

Nicos - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/05 with danny carden

deano - AltLd - 20/Mar/05

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Jun/04

Phil West - Lead dnf - 15/May/04 with Wingnut

Couldn't jam!
Jen79 - 2nd dnf - May/04 with Ginny Carter

cem - 2nd rpt - 05/Oct/03 with Graham Dolman

Budge - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/03 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 26/May/03 with Vicky Munn

Dave Mason - 2nd O/S - May/03 with Trev Tatler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/02

Laramadness - 2nd - Jun/02

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/02

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Aug/01

cem - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/01 with Miles Butteriss

kato'sdad - Lead - 15/Feb/01 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - 2nd - 15/Feb/01 with Jon Berry

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/96

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/96

Budge - Lead dog - Jun/96 with Mike Oates

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/95

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/94

Very undergraded
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 05/Sep/92 with David BA Jones

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/90

Roget - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/90 with jim

gordonday - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/86

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 17/Nov/83

Andy Say - Solo - 14/Aug/83

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Jun/81 with John Tout

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/80

hard thin jams had to rest on this one, i think its best to get a high runner in come back down then just go for it commit 'cos dem jams is mitey fin 'n' insecure'
Alex Mason - Lead - 0000 with Steve Ramsden

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WhipperSnapper, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, papalazarou, Hidden, mapperley samurai, Gary A S, Ragnaar, Michael Hood, Hidden, jeffsheard, Hidden, jak.kelly, jdgaventa, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 108
hard E10 of 38
E10 of 38
easy E14 of 38
hard HVS21 of 38
HVS13 of 38
easy HVS0 of 38
hard VS0 of 38
VS0 of 38
easy VS0 of 38
hard 5b0 of 36
5b0 of 36
easy 5b7 of 36
hard 5a20 of 36
5a9 of 36
easy 5a0 of 36
hard 4c0 of 36
4c0 of 36
easy 4c0 of 36
3 Stars3 of 34
2 Stars18 of 34
1 Star11 of 34
0 Stars2 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 145 (2.1%)
Lead78 of 145 (53.8%)
Followed46 of 145 (31.7%)
Toproped3 of 145 (2.1%)
Alt Leads1 of 145 (0.7%)
Unknown14 of 145 (9.7%)

'Climbed'53 of 145 (36.6%)
clean O/S46 of 145 (31.7%)
clean β3 of 145 (2.1%)
clean rpt9 of 145 (6.2%)
clean RP2 of 145 (1.4%)
dogged25 of 145 (17.2%)
dnf7 of 145 (4.8%)