Nowanda** HVS 5a
[Nowanda, Gardoms, 3 kb]12m.

Rockfax Description
The first crack in the south-facing wall is worth seeking out by those in search of good jamming. Well protected and excellent. © ROCKFAX

FA. Ernie Marshall 1953

Ticklists: Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Nowanda, Gardoms © caradoc
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 177 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Brilliant grit HVS crack climb with bomber jams and gear throughout.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/15 with Hellen

The jams felt hard enough in the middle to merit 5b, but what do I know, I'm a jamming novice really. Best bit is you really do have to jam to get up it.
AsleepOnBelay - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/15 with ian

Sustained and pumpy. I nearly chickened out but decided I had to do it on this visit. Great quality route.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Spiros

Steve lead dogged and I seconded. Had to rest to take out gear which had been rested on. The climbing isn't very secure and i couldn't really get any jams to stick. I'm not a good jammer anyway.
Paul1 - 2nd dog - 18/Jul/15 with steve

First time I've ever really worked a trad climb. Took a lot of effort mostly getting gear in knackered me out. Really enjoyed it by the end though. Glad I managed to finish.
Simoisfab - Lead dog - 18/Jul/15 with Paul Salmon

phildawson - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Jake Jones

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Jun/15

dom94 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/15

Felt very hard but I guess it comes down to your style. Jamming is not my style. After Steve bailed above the hard moves I dogged up to his high point and then did the last easier move to finish it.
sjbrook - Lead dog - 07/May/15 with PCC

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 07/May/15 with Chris Hindley

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/May/15

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 02/May/15 with Bart

Tough for HVS.
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/15 with Malcolm Scott

1 fall, many rests. Some brutal jams in the middle section, then pretty green at the top.
DBoothroyd - Lead dog - 07/Mar/15 with Joe Mortimer

cem - 2nd rpt - 19/Oct/14 with Kirill Spiridonov, Andy Buckley

Tough but fair...
Kirill - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/14 with Andy Buckley, Charles Moreton

babymoac - 2nd - 19/Oct/14 with Kirill S, Charles

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14

First day on the grit in a while, pumped mess!! ace little route tho!
shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14 with Jem

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Aug/14

KamilJ - 2nd RP - 12/Aug/14 with Dan

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/14 with Kamil, Lena

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/14

cragsman9000 - Lead dog - 29/Jun/14 with Neil

bob_cbr - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/14 with cragsman9000

daveagriff - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14

climb the peak - 17/May/14

switch - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13

Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Nick Mitchell

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/13 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 16/Apr/13 with Marti999

Short but sweet jamming route.
masa-alpin - Lead dog - 07/Apr/13 with James D

First trad fall on lead. Hit the floor. Then flashed on top rope. To be finished...
moorsy88 - Lead dog - 27/Sep/12 with David Weston

Ahab - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

TimKnight - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/12 with Richard Howard

Jen Crook - Lead dog - 17/Jun/12 with Rob Patchett

waynem1985 - 20/May/12 with Antony Davies

max_chan - 2nd dog - 17/May/12 with Trevor Wilson

quite sustained and fiddley jams near top, drew a bit of blood.
Helen Gibson - Lead - 15/May/12 with dan

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 15/May/12 with helen gibson

took one fall when a jam slipped, probably not the best warm up
Nick Rundall - Lead dog - 06/May/12 with Leon Skeldon

Bry - 2nd β - 05/May/12 with Simon

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 15/Jan/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Rosh

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/11

Brown - 2nd - Sep/11 with James T

riddle - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/11

Pretty tough in the heat.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Steve Grove

freemanTom - 2nd dog - 02/Jul/11 with Jon Proudfoot

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - 26/Jun/11

Glad to get this one clean!
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Patrick Hogan

Ly-Cilph - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/11 with Jim S (PCC)

riff156 - Lead dog - 05/Jun/11 with Jo Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/11

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with liv_the_div

Great fun
Cake - Lead - 20/May/11 with Matt

Definitely improved my jamming on this one (but not until taking a couple of rests on the rope).
treg - 2nd dog - 04/May/11 with Chris S

hotfeet - Lead - 01/May/11 with Ant, Wayne

waynem1985 - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Antony Davies, Alan Mountford

antdav - TR - 01/May/11 with Alan Mountford, Wayne

pudding - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with john phethean

chrisbussell - 2nd - 05/Apr/11 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

2nd attempt
alasdair19 - 2011

mwatson - 2011

GuyM - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hard work! Very strenuous and sustained. Had to rest on gear to give arms a chance to recover before moving on again. Some of the moves felt hard.
shed_hed - Lead dog - 20/Oct/10 with Jake Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10

Backed off the lead first.
bigdrew - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/10 with Mark R

mark20 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Pown - Lead - 17/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Aug/10

WB - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/10 with Guy

Bex_M - 2nd - 27/Jun/10 with Duncan Dunbar

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

geddicakes - Lead dog - 20/Jun/10 with Nat

John Pickles - 2nd - 25/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - Lead β - 15/May/10

natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with OLLIE

I hate cracks!
radioactivekid - 2nd dog - 09/May/10 with Kyya

stephenhartley - 2nd - May/10 with Burns

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/10

Fell off after trying to place a poor hex where I should have put a good jam in. Got it after resting. None of the moves are that hard, but none of them are easy, and it's very sustained.
victim of mathematics - Lead dog - 17/Apr/10 with Dan Arkle, Jaime

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/10

Ketu - Lead dog - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme H, Charles M

cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/10 with Rob Truckle

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - 2010

Birdo - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Ceri Lewis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

I missed watching Alan fall on this but I could see it would've been pumpy if I'd hung around. As it was, seconding it felt easy since I did it fast but I think leading it would've been a different story.
matthewjames - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Alan Saul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

previously failed to led clean on 04/Jun/06 with Remmi
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/09 with Andy Winter

Couldn't work it out,excellent bumbling.
jcurley - 2nd dog - 18/Mar/09 with Mike Buddle

keith leonard - 2009

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08

Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Duncan Bourne

A real corker in the rain, the top moves were quite tough!
al99 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/08

Maybe it was just a humid day, but this felt like a total sandbag! Very tough to get established in the jamming crack, and very steep, strenuous and hard to place gear once in it! Gave up on the lead after a couple of falls, and still had to rest on the toprope! Never HVS...
PeteH - TR dog - 01/Aug/08 with Dave Thomson

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/08 with Holly Adamthwaite

SteveM - Lead dog - 22/Jun/08 with Kat

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/08 with SteveM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/08

A tough route, the jams are ok but hard to get your hands into.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/08 with Tom Ramsden

Stig - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/07 with Jonathan Teale

Finally, my nemesis is defeated. Went well in cooler conditions.
OffshoreAndy - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/07 with NCC Nic

First lead fall onto No 2 cam. Foot hit floor, Kelvin jumped down a hole. Got back on it but had to rest.
OffshoreAndy - Lead dog - 06/Oct/07 with NCC Kelvin

DavidEvans - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with R Smitton

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 2007

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Nov/06

Stig - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Didn't find the 2nd pocket quick enough & slid off the slopers. Got it 2nd time round after a brief rest.
SecretSquirrel - Lead - 14/Oct/06 with adam carless

Fairly short but a good test of jamming skill.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with SecretSquirrel

Luke Brooks - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/06 with Rob Grant

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/06

feilx - Solo - 16/Sep/06

very humid day, jams slippy, fell on lead so TR to claim gear. TR okay ran for top.
baldcoder - TR RP - 02/Jul/06 with Little Old Lady

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/06

Jon Greengrass - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Pete Graham - Lead - 2006 with Rick Graham

Nicos - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/05 with danny carden

deano - AltLd - 20/Mar/05

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Jun/04

Phil West - Lead dnf - 15/May/04 with Wingnut

Couldn't jam!
Jen79 - 2nd dnf - May/04 with Ginny Carter

cem - 2nd rpt - 05/Oct/03 with Graham Dolman

Budge - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/03 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 26/May/03 with Vicky Munn

Dave Mason - 2nd O/S - May/03 with Trev Tatler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/02

Laramadness - 2nd - Jun/02

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/02

Hidden - Lead - Aug/01

cem - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/01 with Miles Butteriss

kato'sdad - Lead - 15/Feb/01 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - 2nd - 15/Feb/01 with Jon Berry

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/99

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/98

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/96

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/96

Budge - Lead dog - Jun/96 with Mike Oates

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/95

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/94

Very undergraded
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 05/Sep/92 with David BA Jones

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/90

Roget - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/90 with jim

gordonday - Lead O/S - 1990

RichardMc - 2nd - 09/Apr/89 with Dave Langmead

Hidden - Solo - 09/Aug/86

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/86

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 17/Nov/83

Andy Say - Solo - 14/Aug/83

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Jun/81 with John Tout

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

hard thin jams had to rest on this one, i think its best to get a high runner in come back down then just go for it commit 'cos dem jams is mitey fin 'n' insecure'
Alex Mason - Lead - 0000 with Steve Ramsden

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, hthom, rurp, WhipperSnapper, papalazarou, Gary A S, Ragnaar, Michael Hood, jak.kelly, jdgaventa

Total votes cast 142
hard E10 of 50
E10 of 50
easy E14 of 50
hard HVS31 of 50
HVS14 of 50
easy HVS1 of 50
hard VS0 of 50
VS0 of 50
easy VS0 of 50
hard 5b0 of 48
5b1 of 48
easy 5b8 of 48
hard 5a28 of 48
5a11 of 48
easy 5a0 of 48
hard 4c0 of 48
4c0 of 48
easy 4c0 of 48
3 Stars4 of 44
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1 Star15 of 44
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP