Gardoms Edge

Climbs 345 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Access notes
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 *GARDOM'S LEFT-HAND* 
 BATTLEMENT BUTTRESS 
3Scotswood RoadE4 6a
4Roadside AttractionE2 5c
5Boiling OilE2 5c
6Battlement WallHVS 5a
7Sooty and SweepE5 6b
8Rampart CornerS
9PortcullisM
10Turret ChimneyM
11Drawbridge SlabD
12Dungeon GullyM
13The KeepM
14The Watch TowerVD
 GARDOM'S NORTH BOULDERS 
16Leaf ClimbV4 6a
17Percy's RoofV6 6b
18A Tasty GraunchV7 6b
19First Roof LeftV3 6a
20First Roof MiddleV5 6b
21First Roof Right/WishboneV9 6c
22Joint CareV7 6b
23Rock End RollV7 6c *
24Mark's Roof Left-HandV5 6b **
25Nigel's RoofV9 7a ***
26Mark's RoofV8 6b **
27Mark's Roof OriginalV6 6b **
28Mark's Roof DirectV9 6c **
29Mark's Roof CircuitV8 6b **
30Dylan's VariantV7 6c
31Little ArêteV2 6a
32SeamstressV1 5b
33ProwstressV3 6a *
34Ledge RoofV3 6a *
35Ledge CrackV0- 5a
36Ledge WallV1 5c
37Ledge Wall Right-HandV0+ 5b *
38West Wall LeftV0 4c
39West WallV2 5c
40Alcove NoseV4 6b
41Alcove Nose Sit-StartV8 6c
42Alcove ArêteV1 5b
43Ben's BulgeV8 6b *
44The GrasperV5 6b
45Soft on the GV8 6c ***
46Full PowerV11 7a **
478 BallV13 7a ***
48Rock Hard BishopV5 6b *
49Soft GrooveV1 5b
50Soft Groove Sit-StartV5 6b **
51Soft WallV0 5a
52Soft ArêteV0 5a
53Soft RibsV0- 4c
54KidneystoneV8 6c **
55HeartlandV9 7a *
 BLACK WALL AREA 
57Black Wall NothingVS 4c
58Black Wall Route 1S 4a
59Colin's RouteS 4a
60Allen's RouteVS 4b
61Black Wall Route 2HVS 5a
62Lovely Groove *f6C **
63PromiseHVS 5a
64Green WallE4 6a
65Tsetse FlyE1 5c *
66Raging InsomniaE3 6a *
67Mickey FinnE6 6b ***
68NarcolepsyHVS 5b *
69Black Wall TraverseHVS 5b
70RoofiesE5 6b **
71Sleeping SicknessE3 5c **
72Good KarmaE4 6b
73Brown CrackVD **
74Tower VariationHVD 4a
75The RattleHVS 5a
76Diamond BackE3 5c
77North End GirdleHVS 5a
 OVERHANG BUTTRESS 
79ThunderHVS 5a
80Four HorsemenE2 5b **
81Lightning WallHVS 5a **
82The IglooE5 6b *
83Spanish FlyE6 6c **
84AfroV4 6a *
85Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **
86Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b *
87Infirmary GrooveVS 4b
 NOWANDA BUTTRESS 
89TractionVS 4c
90Bloc StenoV5 6b *
91Gardoms GateVD
92Corner CrackD
93Grey CrackHD
94AttractionHVS 5a
95Moyer's ClimbHS 4b *
96Moyer's VariationS 4c
97Social FoolsE1 5b
98Cobweb Arête/Little WandaE2 5c
99NowandaHVS 5a **
100LandsickE1 5b *
101LandsicknessE3 6a **
102GainHVD
103Cave GullyHD
104Capstone ClimbVD
105Cave Gully CrackS 4b
106Chockstone ClimbHS 4a
107Garden Face CrackHS 4b *
108Garden Face DirectVS 5a *
109Garden Face IndirectD *
110Gardoms FenceD
111Heather WallHS 4b
112Small PeopleVS 5b
 OCH AYE WALL 
114Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a *
115Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *
116Tartan RouteVS 5a *
117Capstone GullyM *
118Nerve BlockE5 6a
119Slime CrackVS 5a
120The RinkE2 5b
121FantasyHVS 5b
122A Dream of White Potamus *HVS 5a
123Byne's CrackS 4b *
124The Working ManE2 5b
125WaggyE7 6c *
126Green RibE2 5c
127Green CrackHS 4b
128Little ArêteVS 4c *
129Bad/Angry Fox *V5 6b **
 POGLE'S WOOD 
131Pogle's Wood Left-HandV3 6b
132Pogle's WoodV4 6b **
133Pogle's Wood Sit StartV8 6c **
 MOYER'S BUTTRESS 
135The Gritsone TreatyV8 6c ***
136Mo's ProblemV7 6c *
137Cave ArêteHVS 5a *
138StormbringerE3 5c **
139MonotheismE7 6b *
140Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***
141Imperfect WayE3 5c
142Biven's CrackE1 5b **
143Enigma VariationE3 5c *
144Perfect DayE5 6b ***
145Perfect Day Direct StartV7 6c **
146Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b
147Keith's Other Corner CrackVD
148Keith's ArêteVD 4a
149Problem ChimneyHVD 4a
 ELLIOT'S BUTTRESS 
151Pining for the FjordsS 4c
152Mr Three DegreesE2 6a
153Pine CrackS 5a
154Baton RouteVD
155Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4c *
156Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *
157The Eye of FaithE1 5c ***
158Rhythmic ItchE1 5b **
159Elliott's Buttress DirectVS 4b **
160EvasionHVD 4a
 DEAD TREE WALL 
162Jungle ArêteHS 4b
163Dead Tree WallHS 4b *
164Liar/Pants on FIreVS 5a
165RumourHVS 5b
166GossipHVS 5b
167Central OverlapVS 4c
168Right-Hand FlakeVD
169Flake ChimneyM
170Capstone RibHVS 5b *
 BLACKSMITH'S WALL 
172Striker's RibE1 5c
173SmithyHVD
174Blacksmith's WallVD
175October ClimbHVD
176Spring RouteHS 4b
 OREAD BUTTRESS 
178Nymph's ArêteVS 4c *
179OreadVS 4b **
180Yellow ChimneyM
181Drum RollV7 6c *
182Another Green WorldV8 6c *
 BIN LADEN'S CAVE 
184Bin LillermuleV7 6c *
185Bin Laden's CaveV6 6b ***
 *GARDOM'S RIGHT-HAND* 
 UNDERTAKER'S BUTTRESS 
188GemstoneHVS 5a
189MilestoneS 4a
190BlazeVS 4c
191Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **
192Hearse ArêteE1 5b **
193Coffin NailHVS 5a
194Rest in PiecesVS 5b *
 MARBLE WALL 
196Route IIIVD
197Tales of the Black WidowerE5 6a **
198Marshall's RouteHVS 5a
199White's RouteHS 4b
200Birthday ClimbVD
201Pedestal ClimbHS 4a
202Nursery SlabHVS 5a
203Nursery CrymeHVD 4a
204Nursery TraverseD
 BILBERRY BUTTRESS 
206Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *
207Bilberry ChimneyHVD 4a
208CrottleE1 5b
209Stepped CrackHD *
210GollyV0+ 5b
211Gardom's UnconquerableVS 4c **
212WillyV1 5b
213VallumE3 5c
214Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *
215Boxing CleverS 4a
 CHIMNEY FACE 
217ContemptHVD 4a
218The ChimneyHVD
219Ball Bearing WallHS 4b
220Chimney FaceHS 4a
221The BackclipHS 4b
222Stern FaceS 4b
 TREE BUTTRESS 
224Tree ButtressVS 4b
225The Midas ManE4 6b *
226Tree ClimbS 4b
227Tree NeighbourS 4b
228Porridge eggE6 6a *
229Third Time LuckyVS 4b *
230Gom JabbarE8 6c *
231Boon's WadE2 6a
232By-Pass RouteS 4b
233Central CrackHVS 5b *
234Wall FinishVS 4c *
235AgadooE3 6b **
236Agadoo Sit-StartV5 6b **
237Albert SpansworthyE5 6b
 WALL BUTTRESS 
239Nah'hanE7 6b ***
240Make it SnappyE6 6b ***
241Ecky ThumpE7 6c **
242The CrocodileE3 5c ***
243Right-Hand CrackVS 4c *
244GnasherE3 5c
245Quandary WallHVD 4a
246Red Sky RibHD *
247Split SlabVS 4c
248Chunky DoorstepHVS 5a
 CAPILLARY CRACK BUTTRESS 
250SolomanV3 6a
251Squeeze Your LemonE1 6a
252A Fearful OrangeV5 6b **
253Neutral Milk HotelV3 6a *
254Two-Headed BoyV5 6b *
255It's a GasE1 5c
256Jumping Jack FlashHVS 5b
257Broken ButtressVD
258Ladder CoinsV4 6b
259GamorillaVS 5a
260Capillary CrackVS 4b *
261First BloodV0 5b
 GROOVED WALL 
263Whisky WallS *
264Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c
265Waterloo SunsetE3 5c **
266Midgey MealE3 5c *
267Finale GrooveVS 5a *
268Babylon's GrooveVS 4c *
269Central GrooveVS 4c
270Tree GrooveVS 4b *
271Right-Hand GrooveVS 5a
272Split CrackVS 4b
273Slanting GrooveD
 APPLE BUTTRESS 
275Layback CrackVS 5a *
276Flake CrackHS 4b *
277Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b
278N.M.C. CrackVD **
279Apple Arête DirectE3 5c *
280Apple ArêteVS 4b ***
281Apple CrackHD *
282Apple CoreE2 6a
283Cider AppleS 4a *
284Giant's StaircaseHVD 4a *
285BitterVS 5a *
286Master of ThoughtE2 6a *
287Velvet CracksHS 4b
288Apple Jack CrackVD *
289CydraxHVS 5b *
290CiderVS 5a *
291Double BumV6 6c **
292Blenheim GullyHS 4b
293Blenheim ButtressHVS 5a
294BlenheimE1 5a **
295Wall and ChimneyHVD
296BeaufortHVS 5b
297Three Trees CrackVD
298OrchardE1 5a
 THE QUARRIES 
300President's ArêteVS 4c *
301Ross's RouteD
302All the President's MenE1 5b *
303President's WallHVS 5a
304President's Wall DirectE2 5b
305Senator's CrackHVS 5a
306Nervous TensionE4 6b
307Surface TensionE4 6b
308Hide-Away ClimbVS 4c
309Dirty Business Left-HandV4 6b *
310Dirty BusinessV4 6b **
311Plan DV9 7a
312Business as UsualV5 6b **
313Forward Thinking Sound EngineerV7 6c
314Lost Boy *f6C *
 PILLAR WALL 
316Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **
317Hired GoonsE8 6c ***
318Left-Hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **
319Right-Hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a *
320Elliott's CrackS 4a **
321Headless ChickenE1 5c
322English VoodooV5 6b **
323English Voodoo Sit-StartV7 6c **
 *GARDOM'S SOUTH END* 
 THE ROCKY JUMBLE 
326Sidepull WallV2 6a
327The TeacupV0- 4b
328The SaucererV0 5a
329SlobV3 6a
330The WingV3 6a
 THE MAIN AREA 
332First SlabV0 5a
333First Slab RightS
334DurianS 4c
335ArêteV3 6a **
336Wall Past The FlattyV2 5c *
337Small Ones are More JuicyV4 6b **
338TangerineVS 4c *
339KumquatHS 4c
340StrapadictionaryV0- 4b
341Forge AheadV2 5c
342Scoop TowerV0 5a
343The Mellow BellowV2 5c
344The ScoopV2 5c
345The Sausage of King MeersbrookV10 7a *
346John Player SpecialV7 6b *
 THE WARDROBE 
348Crap'alackin *f7A+
349Leaning BlockM
350Wardrobe BulgeV3 6b
351Captain CabinetsV4 6b *
352Wardrobe RidgeV3 6b **
353SuavitoV8 6c ***
354EscondidoV9 6c
355Scary RibV2 5c
 G-THANG AREA 
357Swift Nick *f6C+ 6b
358Left Triplet ArêteV1 5b *
359Left Triplet SlabV0 5a
360Left CrackV0- 4a
361Middle Triplet ArêteV2 5c *
362Middle WallV0 5a
363Middle Triplet RidgeV2 5c *
364Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-StartV3 6a *
365China In Your HandsV8 6c ***
366Barry SheeneV9 7a **
367G-ThangV4 6a ***
368G-Thang Sit-StartV5 6b ***
369Stung Left-HandV1 5b
370StungV2 5c
371The StingV2 5c
 *STUMP HOLE CAVERN* 
373Stump CreamV1 5c
374Stump Cream ExtensionV4 6b
375Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)V8 6c *
376Stump Hole CavernV10 7a *
377StumpyV0- 4a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

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These details were last updated on 26/Nov/2014
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