Climbs 350
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

Me headtorching Apple Arete (VS 4b), Gardoms, Peak District © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Approach notes

Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gardom's North Boulders 
2Leaf Climb
-
V4 3
3Percy's Roof
-
V6 2
4A Tasty Graunch
-
V7 5
5First Roof LeftV3 206
6First Roof MiddleV5 84
7First Roof Right/WishboneV8 12
8Joint Care
-
V7  
9Rock End RollV7 *2
10Mark's Roof Left-Hand
-
V5 **387
11Nigel's RoofV9 ***19
12Mark's Roof
-
V8 **154
13Mark's Roof OriginalV6 **133
14Mark's Roof DirectV9 **2
15Mark's Roof CircuitV8 **21
16Dylan's VariantV7 1
17Little ArÍteV2 34
18SeamstressV1 24
19ProwstressV3 *69
20Ledge RoofV3 *24
21Ledge CrackV0- 77
22Ledge WallV1 63
23Ledge Wall Right-HandV0+ *10
24West Wall Left
-
V0 11
25West WallV2 63
26Alcove NoseV4 37
27Alcove Nose Sit-Start
-
V8 2
28Alcove ArÍteV1 27
29Ben's Bulge
-
V8 *10
30The GrasperV5 30
31Soft on the G
-
V8 ***99
32Full Power
-
V11 **4
338 Ball
-
V13 *** 
34Rock Hard Bishop
-
V5 *30
35Soft GrooveV1 64
36Soft Groove Sit-Start
-
V5 **13
37Soft WallV0 19
38Soft ArÍte
-
V0 18
39Soft RibsV0- 17
40GallstonesV8 *1
41KidneystoneV8 **49
42HeartlandV9 *4
 *Gardom's Left-Hand* 
 Battlement Buttress 
45Scotswood Road
-
E4 6a 1
46Roadside Attraction
-
E2 5c  
47Boiling Oil
-
E2 5c  
48Battlement Wall
-
HVS 5a  
49Sooty and Sweep
-
E5 6b  
50Rampart Corner
-
S 2
51Portcullis
-
M 2
52Turret Chimney
-
M 1
53Drawbridge Slab
-
D 3
54Dungeon Gully
-
M 1
55The Keep
-
M 1
56The Watch Tower
-
VD 2
 Black Wall 
58Black Wall NothingVS 4c 3
59Black Wall Route 1S 4a 15
60Colin's Route
-
S 4a 7
61Allen's Route
-
VS 4b 13
62Black Wall Route 2VS 5a 14
63Green Wall
-
E4 6a 1
64PromiseHVS 5a 7
65Tsetse FlyE1 5c *16
66Raging InsomniaE3 6a * 
67Mickey FinnE6 6b ***5
68NarcolepsyHVS 5a 9
69Black Wall Traverse
-
HVS 5b 1
70RoofiesE5 6b **1
71Sleeping SicknessE3 5c ***17
72Good KarmaE4 6b  
73Brown CrackS 4a *75
74Tower Variation
-
HVD 4a 2
75The RattleHVS 5a 3
76Diamond BackE2 5c 1
77North End Girdle
-
HVS 5a 1
 Overhang Buttress 
79ThunderVS 4c 10
80Four HorsemenE2 5b **27
81Lightning WallHVS 5a **39
82The IglooE5 6b *2
83Spanish FlyE7 6c **4
84Afrof6B *21
85Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **22
86Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b **41
87Infirmary GrooveHS 4b 36
 Moyer's Climb 
89TractionVS 4c *47
90Bloc Stenof6C *6
91Gardoms GateVD *80
92Corner CrackD 68
93Grey CrackVD 68
94AttractionHVS 5a 21
95Moyer's ClimbS 4a *120
96Moyer's VariationS 4b *79
97Social FoolsE1 5b 10
98Cobweb ArÍte/Little WandaE2 5c 7
 Garden Face 
100NowandaHVS 5a **186
101LandsickE1 5b *61
102LandsicknessE3 6a **35
103GainHVD 10
104Cave GullyD 53
105Capstone Climb
-
VD 15
106Cave Gully CrackHS 4b *95
107Chockstone ClimbHS 4a 45
108Garden Face CrackVS 4b *220
109Garden Face DirectVS 5a *162
110Garden Face IndirectD *194
111Gardoms Fence
-
D 11
112Heather Wall
-
HS 4b 10
113Small People
-
VS 5b 1
 Och Aye Wall 
115Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a *181
116Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *137
117Tartan RouteVS 5a *88
118Capstone GullyM *22
119Nerve Block
-
E5 6a  
120The Rink
-
E2 5b 1
121Slime CrackHVS 5a 10
122FantasyHVS 5b 7
123A Dream of White PotamusHVS 5a 2
124Byne's CrackS 4b **35
125The Working Man
-
E2 5b 2
126WaggyE7 6c *2
127Green Rib
-
E2 5c 4
128Green Crack
-
HS 4b 13
129Bad/Angry FoxV5 **4
130Little ArÍte
-
VS 4c *22
 Pogle's Wood 
132Pogle's Wood Left-Hand
-
V3 10
133Pogle's Wood
-
V4 **44
134Pogle's Wood Sit Start
-
V8 **13
 Moyer's Buttress 
136The Gritsone Treatyf7B **5
137Mo's Problemf7A+ * 
138Cave ArÍteHVS 5a *38
139StormbringerE3 6a **43
140Monotheism
-
E7 6b * 
141Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***582
142Imperfect Way
-
E3 5c  
143Biven's CrackE1 5b **75
144Enigma VariationE3 5c *12
145Perfect DayE5 6b ***22
146Perfect Day Direct Startf7B ***32
147Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b 24
148Keith's Other Corner Crack
-
VD 7
149Keith's ArÍte
-
VD 4a 3
150Problem Chimney
-
HVD 4a  
 Elliott's Buttress 
152Pining for the Fjords
-
S 4c 1
153Mr Three Degrees
-
E2 6a 1
154Pine Crack
-
S 5a 16
155Baton Route
-
VD 17
156Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4b **72
157Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *13
158The Eye of FaithE1 5c ***273
159Rhythmic ItchE1 5b **59
160Elliott's Buttress DirectHS 4b **400
161EvasionHVD 4a 6
 Dead Tree Wall 
163Jungle ArÍteS 4b 10
164Dead Tree WallHS 4b *37
165Liar/Pants on FIre
-
VS 5a 9
166Rumour
-
HVS 5b 5
167Gossip
-
HVS 5b 4
168Central Overlap
-
VS 4c  
169Right-Hand Flake
-
VD 1
170Flake Chimney
-
M 1
171Capstone Rib
-
HVS 5b *4
 Blacksmith's Wall 
173Striker's Rib
-
E1 5c 8
174Smithy
-
HVD 11
175Blacksmith's Wall
-
VD 10
176October Climb
-
HVD 11
177Spring Route
-
HS 4b 1
 Oread Buttress 
179Nymph's ArÍteVS 4c 15
180OreadVS 4c **138
181Yellow ChimneyM 11
182Drum Roll
-
V7 * 
183Another Green WorldV8 * 
 Bin Laden's Cave 
185Bin LillermuleV7 *9
186Bin Laden's Cave
-
V6 ***71
 *Gardom's Right-Hand* 
 Undertaker's Buttress 
189Gemstone
-
HVS 5a 3
190Milestone
-
S 4a 5
191BlazeVS 4c *14
192Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **155
193Hearse ArÍteE1 5b **122
194Coffin Nail
-
HVS 5a 4
195Rest in Pieces
-
VS 5b *3
 Marble Wall 
197Route III
-
VD 4
198Tales of the Black WidowerE5 6a *1
199Marshall's RouteHVS 5a 5
200White's RouteHS 4b 11
201Birthday ClimbHVD 14
202Pedestal ClimbHS 4a *15
203SelladoreE8 7a ** 
204Nursery SlabHVS 5a 10
205Nursery Cryme
-
HVD 4a 2
206Nursery Traverse
-
D 4
 Gardom's Unconquerable 
208Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *85
209Bilberry ChimneyHVD 4a 3
210CrottleE1 5b *27
211Stepped CrackD *50
212Golly
-
V0+ 1
213Gardom's UnconquerableVS 4c **181
214Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *27
215Willy
-
V1 1
216Vallum
-
E3 5c 1
217Boxing Clever
-
S 4a 2
 Chimney Face 
219Contempt
-
HVD 4a 13
220The ChimneyHVD 5
221Ball Bearing WallHS 4b 4
222Chimney Face
-
HS 4a 16
223The Backclip
-
HS 4b 1
224Stern Face
-
S 4b 9
 Tree Buttress and Crocodile 
226Tree ButtressVS 4b 34
227The Midas ManE3 6a 4
228Tree ClimbHS 4b 30
229Tree NeighbourS 4a 7
230Porridge eggE6 6a *6
231Third Time LuckyVS 4c *29
232Gom JabbarE8 6c * 
233Boon's Wad
-
E2 6a 1
234By-Pass RouteHS 4b 13
235Central CrackHVS 5b 7
236Wall FinishVS 4c 2
237AgadooE3 6b 1
238Agadoo Sit-StartV5 **1
239Albert SpansworthyE5 6b * 
 Wall Buttress 
241Nah'hanE8 6c ***8
242Make it SnappyE6 6b ***19
243Ecky ThumpE6 6c *1
244The CrocodileE3 5c **83
245Right-Hand CrackVS 4c *67
246Gnasher
-
E3 5c  
247Quandary Wall
-
HVD 4a 10
248Red Sky RibVD *27
249Split Slab
-
VS 4c 14
250Chunky Doorstep
-
HVS 5a 3
 Capillary Crack Buttress 
252Solomanf6A+ 1
253Squeeze Your Lemon
-
E1 6a 1
254Chav's Head
-
V3 2
255A Fearful Orangef6C+ **7
256A Fearful Head
-
V5 1
257Neutral Milk Hotel
-
V3 *3
258Two-Headed Boyf6C *11
259It's a GasE1 5c 1
260Jumping Jack FlashHVS 5b *1
261Broken ButtressVD 8
262Ladder Coinsf6B 1
263GamorillaHVS 5a 1
264Capillary CrackVS 4c *41
265First Blood
-
V0 1
 Grooved Wall Area 
267Whisky WallS 3c *23
268Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c 1
269Waterloo SunsetE3 5c ***66
270Midgey MealE3 5c *2
271Finale GrooveVS 5a *256
272Babylon's GrooveVS 5a *75
273Babylon's FinaleVS 5a 2
274Central GrooveVS 4b 28
275Tree GrooveVS 4b *153
276Tree Groove DirectVS 5a *10
277Right-Hand GrooveVS 4c 14
278Split CrackVS 4b 4
279Slanting Groove
-
D 6
 Apple Buttress 
281Layback CrackVS 5a *151
282Flake CrackHS 4b *149
283Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b 3
284N.M.C. CrackHVD 3c ***788
285Apple ArÍte DirectE4 5c *49
286Apple ArÍteVS 4b ***1093
287Apple CrackVD *409
288Apple CoreE2 6a 8
289Cider AppleHS 4a *205
290Giant's StaircaseS 4a *217
291BitterVS 5a *420
292Master of ThoughtE2 5c *63
293Velvet CracksVS 4b *421
294Apple Jack CrackVD *415
295CydraxHVS 5b *269
296CiderHVS 5a *149
297Double BumV6 **14
298Blenheim GullyVS 4c *24
299Blenheim ButtressE1 5a 15
300BlenheimE1 5a *25
301Wall and Chimney
-
HVD 2
302Beaufort
-
HVS 5b 3
303Three Trees Crack
-
VD 4
304OrchardE1 5a 5
 The Quarries 
306President's ArÍte
-
VS 4c *12
307Ross's Route
-
D 1
308All the President's MenE1 5b *9
309President's WallHVS 5a 7
310President's Wall DirectE2 5b 1
311Senator's Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
312Nervous Tension
-
E4 6b  
313Surface Tension
-
E4 6b  
314Lost BoyV5 *3
315Hide-Away Climb
-
VS 4c 1
316Dirty Business Left-HandV4 *2
317Dirty Business
-
V4 **8
318Plan DV9 2
319Business as UsualV5 **11
320Forward Thinking Sound Engineer
-
V7  
 Pillar Wall 
322Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **9
323Hired GoonsE8 6c *1
324Left-Hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **58
325Right-Hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a **42
326Elliott's CrackS 4a *97
327Headless Chicken
-
E1 5c  
328English VoodooV5 **37
329English Voodoo Sit-Start
-
V7 **14
 *Gardom's South End* 
 The Rocky Jumble 
332Sidepull Wall
-
V2 1
333The Teacup
-
V0- 8
334The Saucerer
-
V0 6
335Slob
-
V3 5
336The Wing
-
V3 3
 The Main Area 
338First Slab
-
V0 5
339First Slab Right
-
S 4
340Durian
-
S 4c 3
341Crap'alackinV7 1
342ArÍteV3 **48
343Wall Past The Flatty
-
V2 *54
344Small Ones are More JuicyV4 **8
345Tangerine
-
VS 4c *4
346Kumquat
-
HS 4c 8
347Strapadictionary
-
V0- 4
348Forge Ahead
-
V2 2
349Scoop Tower
-
V0 11
350The Mellow Bellow
-
V2 1
351The Scoop
-
V2 2
352The Sausage of King Meersbrook
-
V10 * 
353John Player SpecialV7 *3
 The Wardrobe 
355Leaning Block
-
M 7
356Wardrobe Bulge
-
V3 1
357Captain Cabinets
-
V4 *19
358Wardrobe RidgeV3 **22
359Suavito
-
V8 ***135
360EscondidoV9 1
361Scary Rib
-
V2  
 G-Thang Area 
363Swift NickV5  
364Left Triplet ArÍteV1 *8
365Left Triplet SlabV0 9
366Left Crack
-
V0- 8
367Middle Triplet ArÍte
-
V2 *11
368Middle Wall
-
V0 17
369Middle Triplet Ridge
-
V2 *20
370Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-StartV3 *7
371China In Your Hands
-
V8 ***6
372Barry Sheene
-
V9 **9
373G-Thang
-
V4 ***194
374G-Thang Sit-Start
-
V5 ***65
375Stung Left-HandV1 5
376Stung
-
V2 17
377The StingV2 17
 *Stump Hole Cavern* 
379Stump Cream
-
V1 2
380Stump Cream ExtensionV4 2
381Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)
-
V8 *11
382Stump Hole Cavern
-
V10 * 
383StumpyV0- 5

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