Gardoms Edge

Climbs 350 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Approach notes
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 *GARDOM'S LEFT-HAND*  
 BATTLEMENT BUTTRESS  
3Scotswood RoadE4 6a 1
4Roadside AttractionE2 5c  
5Boiling OilE2 5c  
6Battlement WallHVS 5a  
7Sooty and SweepE5 6b  
8Rampart CornerS 2
9PortcullisM 2
10Turret ChimneyM 1
11Drawbridge SlabD 3
12Dungeon GullyM 1
13The KeepM 1
14The Watch TowerVD 2
 GARDOM'S NORTH BOULDERS  
16Leaf ClimbV4 6a 2
17Percy's RoofV6 6b 2
18A Tasty GraunchV7 6b 5
19First Roof LeftV3 6a 188
20First Roof MiddleV5 6b 72
21First Roof Right/WishboneV8 6c 9
22Joint CareV7 6b  
23Rock End RollV7 6c *2
24Mark's Roof Left-HandV5 6b **350
25Nigel's RoofV9 7a ***15
26Mark's RoofV8 6b **113
27Mark's Roof OriginalV6 6b **121
28Mark's Roof DirectV9 6c **2
29Mark's Roof CircuitV8 6b **20
30Dylan's VariantV7 6c 1
31Little ArÍteV2 6a 24
32SeamstressV1 5b 22
33ProwstressV3 6a *66
34Ledge RoofV3 6a *20
35Ledge CrackV0- 5a 70
36Ledge WallV1 5c 58
37Ledge Wall Right-HandV0+ 5b *6
38West Wall LeftV0 4c 5
39West WallV2 5c 54
40Alcove NoseV4 6b 34
41Alcove Nose Sit-StartV8 6c 2
42Alcove ArÍteV1 5b 23
43Ben's BulgeV8 6b *10
44The GrasperV5 6b 27
45Soft on the GV8 6c ***70
46Full PowerV11 7a **4
478 BallV13 7a *** 
48Rock Hard BishopV5 6b *28
49Soft GrooveV1 5b 52
50Soft Groove Sit-StartV5 6b **7
51Soft WallV0 5a 13
52Soft ArÍteV0 5a 14
53Soft RibsV0- 4c 13
54KidneystoneV8 6c **35
55HeartlandV9 7a *2
 BLACK WALL  
57Black Wall NothingVS 4c 3
58Black Wall Route 1S 4a 15
59Colin's RouteS 4a 7
60Allen's RouteVS 4b 13
61Black Wall Route 2VS 5a 14
62Green WallE4 6a 1
63PromiseHVS 5a 7
64Tsetse FlyE1 5c *16
65Raging InsomniaE3 6a * 
66Mickey FinnE6 6b ***5
67NarcolepsyHVS 5a 9
68Black Wall TraverseHVS 5b 1
69RoofiesE5 6b **1
70Sleeping SicknessE3 5c ***17
71Good KarmaE4 6b  
72Brown CrackS 4a *74
73Tower VariationHVD 4a 2
74The RattleHVS 5a 3
75Diamond BackE2 5c 1
76North End GirdleHVS 5a 1
 OVERHANG BUTTRESS  
78ThunderVS 4c 10
79Four HorsemenE2 5b **27
80Lightning WallHVS 5a **38
81The IglooE5 6b *2
82Spanish FlyE7 6c **4
83Afrof6B *18
84Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **22
85Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b **41
86Infirmary GrooveHS 4b 36
 MOYER'S CLIMB  
88TractionVS 4c *45
89Bloc Stenof6C *5
90Gardoms GateVD *80
91Corner CrackD 67
92Grey CrackVD 68
93AttractionHVS 5a 21
94Moyer's ClimbS 4a *119
95Moyer's VariationS 4b *77
96Social FoolsE1 5b 9
97Cobweb ArÍte/Little WandaE2 5c 5
 GARDEN FACE  
99NowandaHVS 5a **177
100LandsickE1 5b *61
101LandsicknessE3 6a **32
102GainHVD 10
103Cave GullyD 53
104Capstone ClimbVD 15
105Cave Gully CrackHS 4b *94
106Chockstone ClimbHS 4a 45
107Garden Face CrackVS 4b *214
108Garden Face DirectVS 5a *159
109Garden Face IndirectD *189
110Gardoms FenceD 11
111Heather WallHS 4b 10
112Small PeopleVS 5b 1
 OCH AYE WALL  
114Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a *178
115Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *128
116Tartan RouteVS 5a *85
117Capstone GullyM *22
118Nerve BlockE5 6a  
119The RinkE2 5b 1
120Slime CrackHVS 5a 9
121FantasyHVS 5b 7
122A Dream of White PotamusHVS 5a 2
123Byne's CrackS 4b **35
124The Working ManE2 5b 2
125WaggyE7 6c *2
126Green RibE2 5c 4
127Green CrackHS 4b 13
128Bad/Angry FoxV5 6b **3
129Little ArÍteVS 4c *22
 POGLE'S WOOD  
131Pogle's Wood Left-HandV3 6b 9
132Pogle's WoodV4 6b **40
133Pogle's Wood Sit StartV8 6c **8
 MOYER'S BUTTRESS  
135The Gritsone Treatyf7B **4
136Mo's Problemf7A+ * 
137Cave ArÍteHVS 5a *38
138StormbringerE3 6a **41
139MonotheismE7 6b * 
140Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***464
141Imperfect WayE3 5c  
142Biven's CrackE1 5b **73
143Enigma VariationE3 5c *12
144Perfect DayE5 6b ***22
145Perfect Day Direct Startf7B ***23
146Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b 24
147Keith's Other Corner CrackVD 7
148Keith's ArÍteVD 4a 3
149Problem ChimneyHVD 4a  
 ELLIOTT'S BUTTRESS  
151Pining for the FjordsS 4c 1
152Mr Three DegreesE2 6a 1
153Pine CrackS 5a 16
154Baton RouteVD 17
155Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4b **71
156Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *13
157The Eye of FaithE1 5c ***242
158Rhythmic ItchE1 5b **58
159Elliott's Buttress DirectHS 4b **378
160EvasionHVD 4a 5
 DEAD TREE WALL  
162Jungle ArÍteS 4b 10
163Dead Tree WallHS 4b *36
164Liar/Pants on FIreVS 5a 9
165RumourHVS 5b 5
166GossipHVS 5b 4
167Central OverlapVS 4c  
168Right-Hand FlakeVD 1
169Flake ChimneyM 1
170Capstone RibHVS 5b *4
 BLACKSMITH'S WALL  
172Striker's RibE1 5c 8
173SmithyHVD 11
174Blacksmith's WallVD 10
175October ClimbHVD 11
176Spring RouteHS 4b 1
 OREAD BUTTRESS  
178Nymph's ArÍteVS 4c 15
179OreadVS 4c **136
180Yellow ChimneyM 11
181Drum RollV7 6c * 
182Another Green WorldV8 6c * 
 BIN LADEN'S CAVE  
184Bin LillermuleV7 6c *4
185Bin Laden's CaveV6 6b ***55
 *GARDOM'S RIGHT-HAND*  
 UNDERTAKER'S BUTTRESS  
188GemstoneHVS 5a 3
189MilestoneS 4a 5
190BlazeVS 4c *13
191Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **151
192Hearse ArÍteE1 5b **99
193Coffin NailHVS 5a 4
194Rest in PiecesVS 5b *3
 MARBLE WALL  
196Route IIIVD 4
197Tales of the Black WidowerE5 6a *1
198Marshall's RouteHVS 5a 4
199White's RouteHS 4b 11
200Birthday ClimbHVD 14
201Pedestal ClimbHS 4a *15
202SelladoreE8 7a ** 
203Nursery SlabHVS 5a 10
204Nursery CrymeHVD 4a 2
205Nursery TraverseD 4
 GARDOM'S UNCONQUERABLE  
207Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *84
208Bilberry ChimneyHVD 4a 3
209CrottleE1 5b *27
210Stepped CrackD *49
211GollyV0+ 5b 1
212Gardom's UnconquerableVS 4c **173
213Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *25
214WillyV1 5b 1
215VallumE3 5c 1
216Boxing CleverS 4a 2
 CHIMNEY FACE  
218ContemptHVD 4a 13
219The ChimneyHVD 5
220Ball Bearing WallHS 4b 4
221Chimney FaceHS 4a 15
222The BackclipHS 4b 1
223Stern FaceS 4b 9
 TREE BUTTRESS AND CROCODILE  
225Tree ButtressVS 4b 33
226The Midas ManE3 6a 4
227Tree ClimbHS 4b 30
228Tree NeighbourS 4a 7
229Porridge eggE6 6a *6
230Third Time LuckyVS 4c *29
231Gom JabbarE8 6c * 
232Boon's WadE2 6a 1
233By-Pass RouteHS 4b 13
234Central CrackHVS 5b 7
235Wall FinishVS 4c 2
236AgadooE3 6b 1
237Agadoo Sit-StartV5 6b **1
238Albert SpansworthyE5 6b * 
 WALL BUTTRESS  
240Nah'hanE8 6c ***8
241Make it SnappyE6 6b ***19
242Ecky ThumpE6 6c *1
243The CrocodileE3 5c **78
244Right-Hand CrackVS 4c *65
245GnasherE3 5c  
246Quandary WallHVD 4a 10
247Red Sky RibVD *26
248Split SlabVS 4c 14
249Chunky DoorstepHVS 5a 3
 CAPILLARY CRACK BUTTRESS  
251Solomanf6A+ 1
252Squeeze Your LemonE1 6a 1
253Chav's HeadV3 6a 1
254A Fearful Orangef6C+ **5
255A Fearful HeadV5 6a  
256Neutral Milk HotelV3 6a *1
257Two-Headed Boyf6C *9
258It's a GasE1 5c 1
259Jumping Jack FlashHVS 5b *1
260Broken ButtressVD 8
261Ladder Coinsf6B 1
262GamorillaHVS 5a 1
263Capillary CrackVS 4c *41
264First BloodV0 5b 1
 GROOVED WALL AREA  
266Whisky WallS 3c *23
267Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c 1
268Waterloo SunsetE3 5c ***61
269Midgey MealE3 5c *2
270Finale GrooveVS 5a *243
271Babylon's GrooveVS 5a *76
272Babylon's FinaleVS 5a 1
273Central GrooveVS 4b 27
274Tree GrooveVS 4b *151
275Tree Groove DirectVS 5a *9
276Right-Hand GrooveVS 4c 14
277Split CrackVS 4b 3
278Slanting GrooveD 6
 APPLE BUTTRESS  
280Layback CrackVS 5a *149
281Flake CrackHS 4b *148
282Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b 2
283N.M.C. CrackHVD 3c ***747
284Apple ArÍte DirectE4 5c *46
285Apple ArÍteVS 4b ***1026
286Apple CrackVD *394
287Apple CoreE2 6a 7
288Cider AppleHS 4a *199
289Giant's StaircaseS 4a *215
290BitterVS 5a *402
291Master of ThoughtE2 5c *59
292Velvet CracksVS 4b *401
293Apple Jack CrackVD *407
294CydraxHVS 5b *260
295CiderHVS 5a *144
296Double BumV6 6c **12
297Blenheim GullyVS 4c *23
298Blenheim ButtressE1 5a 15
299BlenheimE1 5a *25
300Wall and ChimneyHVD 2
301BeaufortHVS 5b 3
302Three Trees CrackVD 4
303OrchardE1 5a 5
 THE QUARRIES  
305President's ArÍteVS 4c *12
306Ross's RouteD 1
307All the President's MenE1 5b *9
308President's WallHVS 5a 7
309President's Wall DirectE2 5b 1
310Senator's CrackHVS 5a 3
311Nervous TensionE4 6b  
312Surface TensionE4 6b  
313Lost BoyV5 *3
314Hide-Away ClimbVS 4c 1
315Dirty Business Left-HandV4 6b *2
316Dirty BusinessV4 6b **8
317Plan DV9 7a 2
318Business as UsualV5 6b **11
319Forward Thinking Sound EngineerV7 6c  
 PILLAR WALL  
321Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **9
322Hired GoonsE8 6c *1
323Left-Hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **50
324Right-Hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a **42
325Elliott's CrackS 4a *95
326Headless ChickenE1 5c  
327English VoodooV5 6b **31
328English Voodoo Sit-StartV7 6c **12
 *GARDOM'S SOUTH END*  
 THE ROCKY JUMBLE  
331Sidepull WallV2 6a 1
332The TeacupV0- 4b 8
333The SaucererV0 5a 6
334SlobV3 6a 5
335The WingV3 6a 3
 THE MAIN AREA  
337First SlabV0 5a 5
338First Slab RightS 3
339DurianS 4c 3
340Crap'alackinV7 6b 1
341ArÍteV3 6a **44
342Wall Past The FlattyV2 5c *51
343Small Ones are More JuicyV4 6b **8
344TangerineVS 4c *4
345KumquatHS 4c 8
346StrapadictionaryV0- 4b 4
347Forge AheadV2 5c 2
348Scoop TowerV0 5a 11
349The Mellow BellowV2 5c 1
350The ScoopV2 5c 2
351The Sausage of King MeersbrookV10 7a * 
352John Player SpecialV7 6b *3
 THE WARDROBE  
354Leaning BlockM 7
355Wardrobe BulgeV3 6b 1
356Captain CabinetsV4 6b *19
357Wardrobe RidgeV3 6b **20
358SuavitoV8 6c ***72
359EscondidoV9 6c 1
360Scary RibV2 5c  
 G-THANG AREA  
362Swift NickV5 6b  
363Left Triplet ArÍteV1 5b *7
364Left Triplet SlabV0 5a 8
365Left CrackV0- 4a 8
366Middle Triplet ArÍteV2 5c *11
367Middle WallV0 5a 16
368Middle Triplet RidgeV2 5c *18
369Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-StartV3 6a *6
370China In Your HandsV8 6c ***4
371Barry SheeneV9 7a **8
372G-ThangV4 6a ***166
373G-Thang Sit-StartV5 6b ***57
374Stung Left-HandV1 5b 4
375StungV2 5c 15
376The StingV2 5c 14
 *STUMP HOLE CAVERN*  
378Stump CreamV1 5c 2
379Stump Cream ExtensionV4 6b 2
380Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)V8 6c *11
381Stump Hole CavernV10 7a * 
382StumpyV0- 4a 5
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