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View larger mapGrid Ref SK 271731 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 10/Aug/2010

Gardoms Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 303 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A chain of buttresses of good quality grit, height 10 to 20m. Rarely crowded (unfair lichenous reputation due to tree cover) a delightful edge to climb on. Routes of all grades and types in pleasant surroundings (take a picnic). Best middle-grade routes are the classic Moyer's Buttress (E1 5b), The Eye of Faith (E1 5c), Apple Arête (VS 4c) and NMC Crack (VDiff). The test-pieces are flashes of Perfect Day (E5 6b) and Make it Snappy (E6 6b).

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
22 kph

1.1mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
33 kph

0.6mm rain
Sun
12 °C
28 kph

4.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 GARDOM'S NORTH  
2Percy's Roof *f7A 1
3A Tasty Graunchf7A+ 4
4First Roof Leftf6B+ 155
5First Roof Middlef6C+ 55
6Wishbonef7B *5
7Rock End Rollf7A+ 1
8Mark's Roof Left-Handf7A **303
9Nigel's Rooff7C ***12
10Mark's Rooff7B **96
11Mark's Roof Originalf7A **98
12Mark's Roof Directf7C **2
13Mark's Roof Circuitf7B **16
14Dylan's Rooff7B 1
15Little AreteV2 6a 14
16SeamstressV1 18
17Prowstressf6A *64
18Ledge Rooff6A *13
19Ledge CrackV0- 5a 63
20Ledge WallV1 5c 52
21Shelf Slab Rightf4+ *1
22West Wallf6A 39
23Alcove Nosef6B+ 26
24Alcove Nose Sit-Startf7B+ 1
25Alcove AreteV1 5b 20
26Ben's Bulgef7B *8
27The Grasperf6C+ 24
28Soft on the Gf7B ***50
29Full Powerf8A **3
308 Ballf8B *** 
31Rock Hard Bishopf6B+ *25
32Soft Groovef6C 38
33Soft WallV0 4
34Soft AreteV0 4
35Soft RibsV0- 4
 HEARTLAND  
37Kidneystonef7B **23
38Heartlandf7C *2
 BATTLEMENT BUTTRESS  
40Scotswood RoadE4 6a 1
 BLACK WALL  
42Balck Wall NothingVS 4c 2
43Black Wall - Route 1VD 12
44Colin's RouteVD 6
45Allen's RouteHS 9
46Black Wall Route 2HVS 5a 12
47Lovely Groovef6C **16
48PromiseHVS 5a 5
49Tsetse FlyE1 5c *14
50Raging InsomniaE3 6a * 
51NarcolepsyHVS 5a 7
52Mickey FinnE6 6b ***5
53Sleeping SicknessE3 5c **15
54Brown CornerVD **64
55ThunderVS 4c 8
 OVERHANG BUTTRESS  
57Four HorsemenE2 5b **24
58Lightning WallHVS 5a *33
59The IglooE5 6b **1
60Spanish FlyE6 6c ***4
61Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **20
62Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b *33
63Infirmary GrooveS 30
 NOWANDA BUTTRESS  
65TractionHS 4b 37
66Corner-crackD 54
67Gardoms GateVD 67
68Bloc Steno *V5 *4
69Grey CrackD 59
70AttractionVS 5a 15
71Moyer's ClimbS 4a *107
72Moyer's VariationS 4a 67
73Social FoolsE1 5b 8
74Cobweb Arete / Little WandaE2 5c 4
75NowandaHVS 5a **145
76LandsickHVS 5a *49
77Landsick DirectE3 6a *18
78LandsicknessE3 6a 5
79GainHVD 3
80Capstone ClimbS 4b 10
81Cave gully varient 1VD 3c 5
82Cave Gully varient 2VD 3c 3
83Cave GullyHD 48
84Cave Gully CrackS 4b 82
85Chockstone CrackHS 4a 41
 GARDEN FACE BUTTRESS  
87Garden Face CrackHS 4b *191
88Garden Face DirectVS 5a 136
89Garden Face IndirectD *164
90Garden face indirect directS 4a 9
91Gardoms FenceD 2c 8
92Heather WallHS 4b *8
93Garden Face TraverseHS 4a **1
 OCH AYE WALL  
95Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a 163
96Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *115
97Tartan RouteVS 5a *74
98Capstone GullyM 18
99Slime CrackVS 4c 9
100FantasyHVS 5a 6
101A Dream of White PotamusHVS 5a 1
102Byne's CrackVD *30
103The Working ManE2 5b 1
104Green RibE1 5c 3
105Green CrackHS 11
106Little AreteVS 4c 16
 MOYER'S BUTTRESS  
108The Gritsone Treatyf7B ***4
109Cave AreteHVS 5a *35
110StormbringerE3 5c **34
111Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***408
112Biven's CrackHVS 5b **55
113Perfect DayE5 6b ***18
114Perfect Day Direct Startf7B 23
115Pogle's Woodf6C 37
116Pogle's Wood Left-Handf6B 8
117Pogle's Wood Sit Startf7B 7
118Biven's Crack and the Enigma VariationE3 5c *10
119Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b 22
120Keith's Other Corner CrackD 6
121Keith's AreteVD 4a 3
122Pine CrackS 5a *13
123Baton RouteVD 14
 ELLIOT'S BUTTRESS  
125Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4b *62
126Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *13
127Eye of FaithE1 5c **212
128Rhythmic ItchE1 5b 45
129Elliott's Buttress DirectHS 4a **325
130Jungle AreteS 4a 7
131Dead Tree WallHVD *30
132LiarHS 4b 7
133RumourHVS 5b 4
134GossipHVS 5b 3
135Capstone RibHVS 5b *3
136Striker's RibE1 5c 6
137SmithyVD 9
138Blacksmith's WallD 9
139October ClimbD 10
 OREAD BUTTRESS  
141Nymph's AreteVS 4c *12
142OreadVS 4b **115
143Yellow ChimneyM 10
 BIN LADEN'S CAVE  
145Bin Lillermulef7A+ *4
146Bin Laden's Cavef7A 47
 UNDERTAKER'S BUTTRESS  
148GemstoneHVS 5a 2
149MilestoneS 4
150BlazeVS 4c 10
151Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **131
152Hearse AreteE1 5b *89
153Coffin NailHVS 5a *2
154Rest in PiecesHVS 5c *2
155Marshall's RouteHVS 5a 4
156White's RouteVS 4c 10
157Nursery SlabVS 4c 9
158Birthday ClimbVD 11
159Pedestal ClimbHS 4a 12
 Climb nameGradex
 GARDOM'S UNCONQUERABLE  
161Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *77
162CrottleE1 5b 21
163Stepped CrackD *44
164Gardoms UnconquerableVS 4c **145
165Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *23
166ContemptHVD 11
167Chimney FaceS 14
168Stern FaceS 8
 TREE BUTTRESS  
170Tree ButtressVS 4b 22
171The Midas ManE4 6b *3
172Tree ClimbS 4b 26
173Porridge eggE6 6a **6
174Third Time LuckyVS 4b *24
175Gom JabbarE8 6c * 
 CROCODILE BUTTRESS  
177By-Pass RouteHS 4b 12
178Central CrackHVS 5b *5
179AgadooE3 6b ** 
180Agadoo sit-startf6C+ **1
181Make it SnappyE6 6b **14
182Ecky ThumpE7 6c **1
183CrocodileE3 5c **63
184Right-hand CrackVS 4c *52
185Quandry WallVD 9
186Red Sky RibD 19
187Chunky DoorstepsHVS 5a 2
188A Fearful Orange *f6C+ 4
189Capillary CrackVS 4b *38
190Whisky WallS 22
191Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c 1
 GROOVED WALL  
193Waterloo SunsetE3 5c **55
194Finale GrooveVS 5a *193
195Babylon's GrooveVS 5a *63
196Central GrooveVS 4c 22
197Tree GrooveVS 4b *128
198Right-hand GrooveVS 5a 12
199Split CrackS 14
 APPLE BUTTRESS  
201Layback CrackVS 4c *135
202Flake CrackHS 4b *133
203Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b 1
204N.M.C. CrackHVD ***630
205Apple Arete DirectE4 5c *44
206Apple AreteVS 4b ***862
207Apple CrackVD **356
208Cheeky MonkeyE2 6b 5
209Cider AppleHS 4a *172
210Giant's StaircaseS 4a *182
211BitterVS 5a *346
212Master of ThoughtE2 5c *53
213Velvet CracksVS 4b 334
214Apple Jack CrackVD *335
215CydraxHVS 5b *225
216CiderVS 5a 123
217Blenheim GullyHS 22
218Double Bumf7A **11
219Blenheim ButtressVS 4b 12
220BlenheimE1 5a *20
221BeaufortHVS 5b 3
 THE QUARRIES  
223President's AreteVS 4c 8
224All the President's MenE1 5b 5
225President's WallVS 4c 5
226President's Wall DirectE2 5b 1
227Senator's CrackHVS 5b 2
228Business as UsualE5 6b **11
229Lost Boyf6C *3
230Plan Df7C 2
 PILLAR WALL  
232Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **7
233Hired GoonsE8 6c ***1
234English Voodoof6C+ 29
235English Voodoo sit startf7B 12
236Left-hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **46
237Right-hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a *37
238Elliott's CrackS 4a *81
 GARDOM'S SOUTH BOULDERS  
240The Teacup *V0- 4b 5
241The Saucerer *V0 5a 5
242Slob *V3 6a 4
243The Wing *V3 6a 2
244First SlabV0 5a 4
245First Slab RightS 2
246Aretef6B **40
247Wall Past The FlattyV1 5c 44
248Small Ones are More JuicyV4 e2 6b **7
249Tangerine *VS 4c *2
250KumquatHS 4a 7
251StrapadictionaryV0- 4c 3
252Scoop TowerHS 5a 7
253John Player Specialf7A+ *3
254Captain Cabinetsf6C *14
255Wardrobe Ridgef6C **18
256Suavitof7B+ **54
257Left Triplet Arete *VB 5b  
258Left Triplet Slab *VB 5a 1
259Left CrackV0- 4a 6
260Middle Triplet Arete *V2 5c 6
261Middle Triplet RidgeV2 *16
262Middle Triplet Ridge (sitting) *V3 6a 4
263China In Your Handsf7B+ ***4
264Barry Sheenef7C *7
265G-Thangf6B+ ***140
266G-Thang Sit Startf6C+ **47
267Stung *V1 5c 6
268South Boulders Route 29aV1 5b 3
269The Sting *V1 5c 5
 UNVERFIED  
271DurianS 4c 2
272Swift Nickf6C+ 6b  
273Stump Hole Cavernf7C+ * 
274Stump Hole Cavern Startf7B+ *11
275Blunt Aretef6A 8
276Middle Wall *V0 5a 10
277Dirty Business *f6B+ **6
278Two Headed Boy *V5 9
279Dirty Business Left-Hand *V3 6b *2
280Bad/Angry Fox *f6C **2
281Broken Butress *VD 6
282Tales of the Black Widow *E5 6b **1
283The Rattle *HVS 5a 1
284Roofies *E5 6b **1
285Stumpy *V0- 4a 3
286The Rink *E2 5b 1
287Waggy *E6 6b *1
288Midgey meal *E3 5c **1
289The Chimney *HVD 2
290Ball Bearing Wall *HS 4b 2
291Evasion *HVD 3
292Nah'han *E8 6c ***6
293Chockstone Climb *S 4a 3
294Three Trees Crack *VD 1
295Wall and Chimney *HVD 1
296Slanting Groove *D 3
297Orchard *E1 3
298Marble Wall Route III *VD 1
299Tree Neighbour *S 2
300Hide-Away Climb *VS 1
301Spring Route *HS 1
302Nursery Traverse *D 1
303Rampart Corner *S 1
304Portcullis *M 1
305Turret Chimney *M 1
306Drawbridge Slab *D 1
307Dungeon Gully *M 1
308The Keep *M 1
309The Watch Tower *VD 1
310Birch Tree Variation *D 1
311P T Wall *D 1
312Klondyke Crack *D 1
313Calico Crack *M 1
314Slipper Slab *M 1
315The Toadstool *M 1
316Crap'alackin *f7A+ 1
317Scoop Wall *M 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ropeboy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Loved this route, steep & fingery
simon mitchie - 16/Jul/10