Gardoms Edge

Climbs 347 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Access notes
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
3Scotswood RoadE4 6a 1
4Roadside AttractionE2 5c  
5Boiling OilE2 5c  
6Battlement WallHVS 5a  
7Sooty and SweepE5 6b  
8Rampart CornerS 2
9PortcullisM 2
10Turret ChimneyM 1
11Drawbridge SlabD 3
12Dungeon GullyM 1
13The KeepM 1
14The Watch TowerVD 2
16Leaf ClimbV4 6a 1
17Percy's RoofV6 6b 1
18A Tasty GraunchV7 6b 5
19First Roof LeftV3 6a 175
20First Roof MiddleV5 6b 65
21First Roof Right/WishboneV8 6c 9
22Joint CareV7 6b  
23Rock End RollV7 6c *2
24Mark's Roof Left-HandV5 6b **331
25Nigel's RoofV9 7a ***14
26Mark's RoofV8 6b **105
27Mark's Roof OriginalV6 6b **112
28Mark's Roof DirectV9 6c **2
29Mark's Roof CircuitV8 6b **19
30Dylan's VariantV7 6c 1
31Little ArêteV2 6a 21
32SeamstressV1 5b 20
33ProwstressV3 6a *64
34Ledge RoofV3 6a *15
35Ledge CrackV0- 5a 68
36Ledge WallV1 5c 56
37Ledge Wall Right-HandV0+ 5b *4
38West Wall LeftV0 4c 1
39West WallV2 5c 50
40Alcove NoseV4 6b 34
41Alcove Nose Sit-StartV8 6c 1
42Alcove ArêteV1 5b 21
43Ben's BulgeV8 6b *10
44The GrasperV5 6b 25
45Soft on the GV8 6c ***64
46Full PowerV11 7a **4
478 BallV13 7a *** 
48Rock Hard BishopV5 6b *27
49Soft GrooveV1 5b 47
50Soft Groove Sit-StartV5 6b **2
51Soft WallV0 5a 9
52Soft ArêteV0 5a 10
53Soft RibsV0- 4c 9
54KidneystoneV8 6c **31
55HeartlandV9 7a *2
57Black Wall NothingVS 4c 2
58Black Wall Route 1S 4a 14
59Colin's RouteS 4a 6
60Allen's RouteVS 4b 12
61Black Wall Route 2VS 5a 13
62Lovely Groove *f6C **16
63PromiseHVS 5a 6
64Green WallE4 6a  
65Tsetse FlyE1 5c *15
66Raging InsomniaE3 6a * 
67Mickey FinnE6 6b ***5
68NarcolepsyHVS 5b *9
69Black Wall TraverseHVS 5b  
70RoofiesE5 6b **1
71Sleeping SicknessE3 5c **17
72Good KarmaE4 6b  
73Brown CrackVD **71
74Tower VariationHVD 4a 2
75The RattleHVS 5a 1
76Diamond BackE3 5c  
77North End GirdleHVS 5a  
79ThunderVS 4c 10
80Four HorsemenE2 5b **26
81Lightning WallHVS 5a 35
82The IglooE5 6b **2
83Spanish FlyE6 6c ***4
84AfroV4 6a *2
85Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **22
86Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b **37
87Infirmary GrooveHS 4a 33
89TractionHS 4b *42
90Bloc StenoV5 6b *5
91Gardoms GateVD 75
92Corner CrackD 61
93Grey CrackVD 64
94AttractionVS 5a 20
95Moyer's ClimbS 4a *114
96Moyer's VariationS 4a 75
97Social FoolsE1 5b 9
98Cobweb Arête/Little WandaE2 5c 5
99NowandaHVS 5a **161
100LandsickE1 5b *56
101LandsicknessE3 6a *29
102GainHVD 9
103Cave GullyD 50
104Capstone ClimbVD 15
105Cave Gully CrackS 4b *88
106Chockstone ClimbS 4a 45
107Garden Face CrackVS 4b *204
108Garden Face DirectVS 5a 146
109Garden Face IndirectD *173
110Gardoms FenceD 11
111Heather WallHS 4b 10
112Small PeopleVS 5b 1
114Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a *173
115Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *125
116Tartan RouteVS 5a *80
117Capstone GullyM *20
118Nerve BlockE5 6a  
119Slime CrackVS 5a 9
120The RinkE2 5b 1
121FantasyHVS 5b 6
122A Dream of White Potamus *HVS 5a 1
123Byne's CrackHVD 4a *31
124The Working ManE2 5b 1
125WaggyE7 6c *1
126Green RibE2 5c 3
127Green CrackHS 4b 12
128Bad/Angry FoxV5 6b **3
129Little ArêteVS 4c *19
131Pogle's Wood Left-HandV3 6b 9
132Pogle's WoodV4 6b **40
133Pogle's Wood Sit StartV8 6c **8
135The Gritsone TreatyV8 6c ***4
136Mo's ProblemV7 6c * 
137Cave ArêteHVS 5a *38
138StormbringerE3 5c **38
139MonotheismE7 6b * 
140Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***441
141Imperfect WayE3 5c  
142Biven's CrackHVS 5b **71
143Enigma VariationE3 5c 11
144Perfect DayE5 6b ***19
145Perfect Day Direct StartV7 6c **23
146Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b 24
147Keith's Other Corner CrackVD 7
148Keith's ArêteVD 4a 3
149Problem ChimneyHVD 4a  
151Pining for the FjordsS 4c 1
152Mr Three DegreesE2 6a 1
153Pine CrackS 5a 14
154Baton RouteVD 15
155Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4b *67
156Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *13
157The Eye of FaithE1 5c ***233
158Rhythmic ItchE1 5b 54
159Elliott's Buttress DirectHS 4a **355
160EvasionHVD 4a 5
162Jungle ArêteHS 4b 8
163Dead Tree WallHS 4b *34
164Liar/Pants on FIreVS 5a 8
165RumourHVS 5b 5
166GossipHVS 5b 4
167Central OverlapVS 4c  
168Right-Hand FlakeVD 1
169Flake ChimneyM 1
170Capstone RibHVS 5b *4
172Striker's RibE1 5c 7
173SmithyHVD 10
174Blacksmith's WallVD 10
175October ClimbHVD 11
176Spring RouteHS 4b 1
178Nymph's ArêteVS 5a 13
179OreadVS 4c **128
180Yellow ChimneyM 11
181Drum RollV7 6c * 
182Another Green WorldV8 6c * 
184Bin LillermuleV7 6c *4
185Bin Laden's CaveV6 6b ***54
188GemstoneHVS 5a 2
189MilestoneS 4a 4
190BlazeVS 4c 12
191Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **141
192Hearse ArêteE1 5b *95
193Coffin NailHVS 5a 3
194Rest in PiecesVS 5b *2
196Route IIIVD 3
197Tales of the Black WidowerE5 6a **1
198Marshall's RouteHVS 5a 4
199White's RouteHS 4b 11
200Birthday ClimbVD 13
201Pedestal ClimbHS 4a 14
202Nursery SlabHVS 5a 10
203Nursery CrymeHVD 4a 2
204Nursery TraverseD 4
206Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *83
207Bilberry ChimneyHVD 4a 2
208CrottleE1 5b *24
209Stepped CrackD *49
210GollyV0+ 5b 1
211Gardom's UnconquerableVS 4c **158
212WillyV1 5b  
213VallumE3 5c  
214Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *23
215Boxing CleverS 4a 1
217ContemptHVD 4a 13
218The ChimneyHVD 5
219Ball Bearing WallHS 4b 4
220Chimney FaceHS 4a 15
221The BackclipHS 4b 1
222Stern FaceS 4b 9
224Tree ButtressVS 4b *28
225The Midas ManE3 6a 4
226Tree ClimbHS 4b 28
227Tree NeighbourS 4b 4
228Porridge eggE6 6a *6
229Third Time LuckyVS 4b *26
230Gom JabbarE8 6c * 
231Boon's WadE2 6a 1
232By-Pass RouteHS 4b 13
233Central CrackHVS 5b 7
234Wall FinishVS 4c *2
235AgadooE3 6b 1
236Agadoo Sit-StartV5 6b **1
237Albert SpansworthyE5 6b  
239Nah'hanE7 6b ***8
240Make it SnappyE6 6b ***18
241Ecky ThumpE7 6c *1
242The CrocodileE3 5c **71
243Right-Hand CrackVS 4c *60
244GnasherE3 5c  
245Quandary WallHVD 4a 10
246Red Sky RibHD *24
247Split SlabVS 4c 14
248Chunky DoorstepHVS 5a 3
250SolomanV3 6a 1
251Squeeze Your LemonE1 6a 1
252Chav's HeadV3 6a 1
253A Fearful OrangeV5 6b **4
254A Fearful HeadV5 6a  
255Neutral Milk HotelV3 6a *1
256Two-Headed BoyV5 6b *9
257It's a GasE1 5c 1
258Jumping Jack FlashHVS 5b 1
259Broken ButtressVD 8
260Ladder CoinsV4 6b 1
261GamorillaVS 5a 1
262Capillary CrackVS 4b *41
263First BloodV0 5b  
265Whisky WallS *23
266Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c 1
267Waterloo SunsetE3 5c ***59
268Midgey MealE3 5c *2
269Finale GrooveVS 5a *223
270Babylon's GrooveVS 5a *74
271Central GrooveVS 4b *25
272Tree GrooveVS 4b *145
273Right-Hand GrooveVS 4c 14
274Split CrackVS 4b 3
275Slanting GrooveD 6
277Layback CrackVS 4c *145
278Flake CrackHS 4b *144
279Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b 2
280N.M.C. CrackHVD ***693
281Apple Arête DirectE4 5c *44
282Apple ArêteVS 4b ***950
283Apple CrackVD *380
284Apple CoreE2 6a 6
285Cider AppleHS 4a *187
286Giant's StaircaseS 4a *200
287BitterVS 5a *379
288Master of ThoughtE2 5c *54
289Velvet CracksVS 4b *367
290Apple Jack CrackVD *372
291CydraxHVS 5b *241
292CiderVS 5a 134
293Double BumV6 6c **12
294Blenheim GullyHS 4b 23
295Blenheim ButtressHVS 5a 14
296BlenheimE1 5a **25
297Wall and ChimneyHVD 2
298BeaufortHVS 5b 3
299Three Trees CrackVD 3
300OrchardE1 5a 5
302President's ArêteVS 4c *10
303Ross's RouteD 1
304All the President's MenE1 5b *9
305President's WallHVS 5a 7
306President's Wall DirectE2 5b 1
307Senator's CrackHVS 5a 3
308Nervous TensionE4 6b  
309Surface TensionE4 6b  
310Lost BoyV5 *3
311Hide-Away ClimbVS 4c 1
312Dirty Business Left-HandV4 6b *2
313Dirty BusinessV4 6b **7
314Plan DV9 7a 2
315Business as UsualV5 6b **11
316Forward Thinking Sound EngineerV7 6c  
318Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **9
319Hired GoonsE8 6c ***1
320Left-Hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **47
321Right-Hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a *39
322Elliott's CrackS 4a *89
323Headless ChickenE1 5c  
324English VoodooV5 6b **29
325English Voodoo Sit-StartV7 6c **12
328Sidepull WallV2 6a 1
329The TeacupV0- 4b 8
330The SaucererV0 5a 6
331SlobV3 6a 5
332The WingV3 6a 3
334First SlabV0 5a 5
335First Slab RightS 3
336DurianS 4c 3
337Crap'alackinV7 6b 1
338ArêteV3 6a **41
339Wall Past The FlattyV2 5c *49
340Small Ones are More JuicyV4 6b **8
341TangerineVS 4c *4
342KumquatHS 4c 8
343StrapadictionaryV0- 4b 4
344Forge AheadV2 5c 1
345Scoop TowerV0 5a 11
346The Mellow BellowV2 5c 1
347The ScoopV2 5c 1
348The Sausage of King MeersbrookV10 7a * 
349John Player SpecialV7 6b *3
351Leaning BlockM 7
352Wardrobe BulgeV3 6b 1
353Captain CabinetsV4 6b *15
354Wardrobe RidgeV3 6b **19
355SuavitoV8 6c ***69
356EscondidoV9 6c  
357Scary RibV2 5c  
359Swift NickV5 6b  
360Left Triplet ArêteV1 5b *4
361Left Triplet SlabV0 5a 5
362Left CrackV0- 4a 7
363Middle Triplet ArêteV2 5c *9
364Middle WallV0 5a 13
365Middle Triplet RidgeV2 5c *18
366Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-StartV3 6a *6
367China In Your HandsV8 6c ***4
368Barry SheeneV9 7a **7
369G-ThangV4 6a ***161
370G-Thang Sit-StartV5 6b ***57
371Stung Left-HandV1 5b 4
372StungV2 5c 10
373The StingV2 5c 9
375Stump CreamV1 5c 2
376Stump Cream ExtensionV4 6b 2
377Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)V8 6c *11
378Stump Hole CavernV10 7a * 
379StumpyV0- 4a 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

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