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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SK 271731 (OS Landranger #119)

Gardoms Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 283 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A chain of buttresses of good quality grit, height 10 to 20m. Rarely crowded (unfair lichenous reputation due to tree cover) a delightful edge to climb on. Routes of all grades and types in pleasant surroundings (take a picnic). Best middle-grade routes are the classic Moyer's Buttress (E1 5b), The Eye of Faith (E1 5c), Apple Arête (VS 4c) and NMC Crack (VDiff). The test-pieces are flashes of Perfect Day (E5 6b) and Make it Snappy (E6 6b).

Weather forecast

Today	Mon	Tue	Wed	Thu

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	TASTY GRAUNCH
2	A Tasty Graunch	f7A+	2
	FIRST ROOF
4	First Roof Left	f6B+	140
5	First Roof Middle	f6C+	50
6	Wishbone (First Roof Right)	f7B *	2
	MARK'S ROOF
8	Rock End Roll (Percydiddit)	f7A+
9	Mark's Roof Left-Hand	f7A **	278
10	Neil's Roof (Nigel's Roof)	f7C ***	9
11	Mark's Roof	f7B **	79
12	Mark's Roof Original	f7A **	88
13	Mark's Roof Direct	f7C **	2
14	Mark's Roof Circuit	f7B **	15
15	Dylan's Roof	f7B	1
	CENTRAL BOULDERS
17	Little Arete	V2 6a	7
18	Seamstress	V1	16
19	Prowstress (The Nose)	f6A *	62
20	Ledge Crack (Side Wall)	V0- 5a	59
21	Ledge Wall (Shelf Slab)	V1 5c	44
22	Problem 10 (North)	font 5	3
23	West Wall	f6A	33
24	Alcove Nose	f6B+	22
25	Alcove Nose Sit-Start	f7B+	1
26	Alcove Arete	V1 5b	17
27	Ben's Side Wall (Ben's Bulge)	f7B *	8
28	The Grasper (High Arete)	f6C+	19
	SOFT ON THE G
30	Soft on the G	f7B ***	42
31	Full Power	f8A **	1
32	8 Ball	f8B ***
33	Rock Hard Bishop	f6B+ *	24
34	Soft Groove	f6C	27
35	Soft Wall	V0	2
36	Soft Arete	V0	2
37	Soft Ribs	V0-	3
	HEARTLAND
39	Kidneystone	f7B **	6
40	Heartland Left	f7A *	7
41	Heartland	f7C *	2
	BATTLEMENT BUTTRESS
43	Scotswood Road	E4 6a	1
	BLACK WALL AREA
45	Balck Wall Nothing	VS 4c	2
46	Black Wall - Route 1	VD	10
47	Colin's Route	VD	6
48	Allen's Route	HS	8
49	Black Wall Route 2	HVS 5a	10
50	Lovely Groove	f6C **	16
51	Promise	HVS 5a	5
52	Tsetse Fly	E1 5c *	14
53	Raging Insomnia	E3 6a *
54	Narcolepsy	HVS 5a	7
55	Mickey Finn	E6 6b ***	5
56	Sleeping Sickness	E3 5c **	15
57	Brown Corner	VD **	58
58	Thunder	VS 4c	8
59	Four Horsemen	E2 5b **	24
60	Lightning Wall	HVS 5a *	32
61	The Igloo	E5 6b **	1
62	Spanish Fly	E6 6c ***	3
63	Vaya Con Dios	E2 5c **	17
64	Overhang Buttress Ordinary	VS 4b *	27
65	Infirmary Groove	S	29
66	Traction	HS 4b	35
67	Corner-crack	D	46
68	Gardoms Gate	VD	57
69	Grey Crack	D	53
70	Attraction	VS 5a	11
71	Moyer's Climb	S 4a *	102
72	Moyer's Variation	S 4a	58
73	Social Fools	E1 5b	8
74	Cobweb Arete / Little Wanda	E2 5c	4
75	Nowanda	HVS 5a **	141
76	Landsick	HVS 5a *	45
77	Landsick Direct	E3 6a *	16
78	Landsickness	E3 6a	5
79	Gain	HVD	3
80	Capstone Climb	S 4b	8
81	Cave gully varient 1	VD 3c	4
82	Cave Gully varient 2	VD 3c	3
83	Cave Gully	HD	43
84	Cave Gully Crack	S 4b	78
85	Chockstone Crack	HS 4a	36
86	Garden Face Crack	HS 4b *	175
87	Garden Face Direct	VS 5a	124
88	Garden Face Indirect	D *	151
89	Garden face indirect direct	S 4a	7
90	Gardoms Fence	D 2c	5
91	Heather Wall	HS 4b *	6
92	Garden Face Traverse	HS 4a **	1
93	Och Aye Wall Indirect	VS 5a	151
94	Och Aye Wall Direct	VS 5b *	103
95	Tartan Route	VS 5a *	72
96	Capstone Gully	M	17
97	Slime Crack	VS 4c	7
98	Fantasy	HVS 5a	6
99	A Dream of White Potamus	HVS 5a	1
100	Byne's Crack	VD *	26
101	The Working Man	E2 5b	1
102	Green Rib	E1 5c	3
103	Green Crack	HS	10
104	Little Arete	VS 4c	14
105	The Gritsone Treaty	f7B ***	4
106	Cave Arete	HVS 5a *	30
107	Stormbringer	E3 5c **	30
108	Moyer's Buttress	E1 5b ***	372
109	Biven's Crack	HVS 5b **	48
110	Perfect Day	E5 6b ***	14
111	Perfect Day Direct Start	f7B	19
112	Pogle's Wood	f6C	29
113	Pogle's Wood Left-Hand	f6B	7
114	Pogle's Wood Sit Start	f7B	6
115	Biven's Crack and the Enigma Variation	E3 5c *	10
116	Keith's Corner Crack	HS 4b	18
117	Keith's Other Corner Crack	D	6
118	Keith's Arete	VD 4a	3
119	Pine Crack	S 5a *	12
120	Baton Route	VD	13
121	Elliott's Buttress Indirect	VS 4b *	55
122	Seventy One White Mice	E2 6a *	13
123	Eye of Faith	E1 5c **	195
124	Rhythmic Itch	E1 5b	34
125	Elliott's Buttress Direct	HS 4a **	291
126	Jungle Arete	S 4a	6
127	Dead Tree Wall	HVD *	26
128	Liar	HS 4b	7
129	Rumour	HVS 5b	4
130	Gossip	HVS 5b	3
131	Capstone Rib	HVS 5b *	3
132	Striker's Rib	E1 5c	5
133	Smithy	VD	8
134	Blacksmith's Wall	D	8
135	October Climb	D	9
136	Nymph's Arete	VS 4c *	8
137	Oread	VS 4b **	103
138	Yellow Chimney	M	9
	BIN LADEN'S CAVE
140	Bin Lillermule	f7A+ *	3
141	Bin Laden's Cave	f7A	40
	UNDERTAKER'S BUTTRESS AREA
143	Gemstone	HVS 5a	2
144	Milestone	S	3
145	Blaze	VS 4c	10

	Climb name	Grade	x

146	Undertaker's Buttress	VS 4c **	115
147	Hearse Arete	E1 5b *	82
148	Coffin Nail	HVS 5a *	2
149	Rest in Pieces	HVS 5c *	2
150	Marshall's Route	HVS 5a	4
151	White's Route	VS 4c	9
152	Nursery Slab	VS 4c	8
153	Birthday Climb	VD	10
154	Pedestal Climb	HS 4a	9
155	Bilberry Buttress	VS 5a *	66
156	Crottle	E1 5b	17
157	Stepped Crack	D *	36
158	Gardoms Unconquerable	VS 4c **	122
159	Whillans' Blind Variant	E1 5b *	22
160	Contempt	HVD	10
161	Chimney Face	S	13
162	Stern Face	S	8
163	Tree Buttress	VS 4b	19
164	The Midas Man	E4 6b *	3
165	Tree Climb	S 4b	24
166	Porridge egg	E6 6a **	1
167	Third Time Lucky	VS 4b *	21
168	Gom Jabbar	E8 6c *
169	By-Pass Route	HS 4b	10
170	Central Crack	HVS 5b *	4
171	Agadoo	E3 6b **
172	Agadoo sit-start	f6C+ **	1
173	Make it Snappy	E6 6b **	12
174	Ecky Thump	E7 6c **	1
175	Crocodile	E3 5c **	58
176	Right-hand Crack	VS 4c *	45
177	Quandry Wall	VD	8
178	Red Sky Rib	D	18
179	Chunky Doorsteps	HVS 5a	2
180	Capillary Crack	VS 4b *	37
181	Whisky Wall	S	19
182	Muswell Hillbillies	E4 5c	1
183	Waterloo Sunset	E3 5c **	53
184	Finale Groove	VS 5a *	170
185	Babylon's Groove	VS 5a *	55
186	Central Groove	VS 4c	18
187	Tree Groove	VS 4b *	113
188	Right-hand Groove	VS 5a	9
189	Split Crack	S	12
190	Layback Crack	VS 4c *	125
191	Flake Crack	HS 4b *	124
192	Twilight's Last Gleaming	E2 5b	1
193	N.M.C. Crack	HVD ***	562
194	Apple Arete Direct	E4 5c *	38
195	Apple Arete	VS 4b ***	772
196	Apple Crack	VD **	309
197	Cheeky Monkey	E2 6b	5
198	Cider Apple	HS 4a *	150
199	Giant's Staircase	S 4a *	161
200	Bitter	VS 5a *	311
201	Master of Thought	E2 5c *	52
202	Velvet Cracks	VS 4b	308
203	Apple Jack Crack	VD *	290
204	Cydrax	HVS 5b *	199
205	Cider	VS 5a	96
206	Blenheim Gully	HS	18
207	Double Bum	f7A **	9
208	Blenheim Buttress	VS 4b	7
209	Blenheim	E1 5a *	18
210	Beaufort	HVS 5b	2
211	President's Arete	VS 4c	6
212	All the President's Men	E1 5b	5
213	President's Wall	VS 4c	5
214	President's Wall Direct	E2 5b	1
215	Senator's Crack	HVS 5b	2
216	Business as Usual	E5 6b **	11
217	Lost Boy	f6C *	3
218	Plan D	f7C	2
219	Charlotte Rampling	E6 6b **	7
220	Hired Goons	E8 6c ***	1
221	English Voodoo	f6C+	19
222	English Voodoo sit start	f7B	9
223	Left-hand Pillar Crack	E1 5b **	31
224	Right-hand Pillar Crack	HVS 5a *	35
225	Elliott's Crack	S 4a *	74
226	First Slab	V0 5a	4
227	First Slab Right	S	2
228	Durian	S 4c	2
229	Small Ones are More Juicy	V4 e2 6b **	7
230	Kumquat	HS 4a	7
231	Wall Past The Flatty	V1 5c	5
232	Strapadictionary	V0- 4c	2
233	Scoop Tower	HS 5a	4
234	Problem 1 (South)	f6B **	26
235	Problem 2	f6A	23
236	Problem 7 (South)	f6A+ *	11
237	Problem 11 - Wardrobe Ridge	f6C **	16
238	problem 12	f6C *	14
239	Problem 13 (South)	font 5+ *	9
240	problem 14 (South)	f6A *	9
241	Suavito	f7B+ **	38
242	Left Crack	V0- 4a	4
243	China In Your Hands	f7B+ ***	3
244	Swift Nick	f6C+ 6b
245	Barry Sheene	f7C *	6
246	John Player Special	f7A+ *	3
247	G-Thang	f6B+ ***	122
248	G-Thang Sit Start	f6C+ **	40
249	Superbloc	E8 7a **
250	Brazil	E6 6b *	1
251	The Jackalope	f7A *	10
252	Small Worlds	E3 6a	1
253	Stump Hole Cavern	f7C+ *
254	Stump Hole Cavern Start	f7B+ *	9
255	Blunt Arete	f6A	7
	UNVERFIED
257	The Teacup *	V0- 4b	4
258	The Saucerer *	V0 5a	4
259	Slob *	V3 6a	4
260	The Wing *	V3 6a	2
261	Middle Wall *	V0 5a	8
262	Dirty Business *	f6B+ **	6
263	Two Headed Boy *	V5	9
264	Bloc Steno *	V5 *	4
265	Middle Triplet Ridge (standing) *	V2 5c	5
266	Middle Triplet Ridge (sitting) *	V3 6a	4
267	Dirty Business Left-Hand *	V3 6b *	2
268	Bad/Angry Fox *	f6C **	2
269	Broken Butress *	VD	4
270	Left Hand Pillar Crack *	E1 5b **	10
271	Tales of the Black Widow *	E5 6b **	1
272	The Rattle *	HVS 5a	1
273	Roofies *	E5 6b **	1
274	Stumpy *	V0- 4a	3
275	Shelf slab right *	font 4+ *	1
276	Ledge Roof *	f6A *	11
277	The Rink *	E2 5b	1
278	Middle Triplet Arete *	V2 5c	6
279	Stung *	V1 5c	3
280	The Sting *	V1 5c	2
281	South Boulders Route 29a	V1 5b	2
282	Waggy *	E6 6b *	1
283	Tangerine *	VS 4c *	1
284	Midgey meal *	E3 5c **	1
285	A Fearful Orange *	f6C+	1
286	The Chimney *	HVD	1
287	Ball Bearing Wall *	HS 4b	1
288	Percy's Roof *	f7A	1
289	Evasion *	HVD	1
290	Nah'han *	E8 6c ***	3

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Awesome Walls Climbing Centre Sheffield
Sheffield, SOUTH YORKSHIRE
Dedicated centre. "WALL NOT OPEN YET. OPENING MID 2013 Work has commenced in earnest at Awesome Walls Sheffield. Rockworks are flat out installing steel and Gin and Tonic (Big Z) are hard at it building..."
www.awesomewalls.co.uk

Advertise here

Access notes
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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