Climbs 370
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

sam leading trad! © mwatson

Crag features

Named after a blacksmith from the Chatsworth Estate, Gardom's is a neglected edge; except for the area around Apple Buttress it is unusual to see another team here. The classic Moyer's Buttress tops the hit list for visitors though and there are plenty of worthwhile offerings spread along the edge. Those who are prepared to pick and choose will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. Gardom's has a quartet of fine routes in the E3 grade with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset offering a great day out for a suitably talented team. Travelling along the cliff base is tortuous in many areas, returning to the cliff top is often the best option when moving between buttresses. The neglected air of the cliff tends to add to the appeal for many some, making a nice change from the circus atmosphere at more popular venues.

Approach notes

Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the left-hand end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alternatively, to gain the right-hand end of the edge, approach along the footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Battlement Buttress 
2Scotswood Road
-
E4 6a 1
3Roadside Attraction
-
E2 5c  
4Boiling Oil
-
E2 5c  
5Battlement Wall
-
HVS 5a  
6Sooty and Sweep
-
E5 6b  
7Rampart Corner
-
S 2
8Portcullis
-
M 2
9Turret Chimney
-
M 1
10Drawbridge Slab
-
D 3
11Dungeon Gully
-
M 1
12The Keep
-
M 1
13The Watch Tower
-
VD 2
 Gardom's North Boulders 
15Leaf Climb
-
V4 4
16Percy's Roof
-
V6 3
17A Tasty Graunch
-
V7 5
18First Roof LeftV3 239
19First Roof MiddleV5 109
20First Roof Right/WishboneV8 17
21Joint Care
-
V7  
22Rock End RollV7 *4
23Mark's Roof Left-Hand
-
V5 **431
24Nigel's RoofV9 ***30
25Mark's Roof
-
V8 **189
26Mark's Roof OriginalV6 **162
27Mark's Roof DirectV9 **3
28Mark's Roof CircuitV8 **23
29Dylan's VariantV7 1
30Little ArÍteV2 46
31SeamstressV1 33
32ProwstressV3 *75
33Ledge RoofV3 *29
34Ledge CrackV0- 92
35Ledge WallV1 70
36Ledge Wall Right-HandV0+ *18
37West Wall Left
-
V0 22
38West WallV2 79
39Alcove NoseV4 41
40Alcove Nose Sit-Start
-
V8 2
41Alcove ArÍteV1 31
42Ben's Bulge
-
V8 *13
43The GrasperV5 35
44Lunacyf7C **1
45Soft on the G
-
V8 ***131
46Full Power
-
V11 **16
478 Ball
-
V13 *** 
48Rock Hard Bishop
-
V5 *33
49Soft GrooveV1 73
50Soft Groove Sit-Start
-
V5 **20
51Soft WallV0 22
52Soft ArÍte
-
V0 23
53Soft RibsV0- 23
54GallstonesV8 *3
55KidneystoneV8 **68
56HeartlandV9 *5
 *Gardom's Left-Hand* 
 Black Wall 
59Black Wall NothingVS 4c 3
60Black Wall Route 1S 4a 16
61Colin's Route
-
S 4a 8
62Allen's Route
-
VS 4b 14
63Black Wall Route 2VS 5a 14
64Green Wall
-
E4 6a 1
65PromiseHVS 5a 7
66Tsetse FlyE1 5c *18
67Raging InsomniaE3 6a * 
68Mickey FinnE6 6b ***5
69NarcolepsyHVS 5a 9
70Black Wall Traverse
-
HVS 5b 1
71RoofiesE5 6b **1
72Sleeping SicknessE3 5c ***22
73Good KarmaE4 6b  
74Brown CrackS 4a *80
75Tower Variation
-
HVD 4a 2
76The RattleHVS 5a 3
77Diamond BackE2 5c 1
78North End Girdle
-
HVS 5a 1
 Overhang Buttress 
80ThunderVS 4c 10
81Four HorsemenE2 5b **33
82Lightning WallHVS 5a **44
83The IglooE5 6b *2
84Spanish FlyE7 6c **4
85Afrof6B *25
86Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **27
87Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b **50
88Infirmary GrooveHS 4b 37
 Nowanda Buttress 
90TractionVS 4c *49
91Bloc Stenof6C *6
92Gardoms GateVD *87
93Corner CrackD 68
94Grey CrackVD 70
95AttractionHVS 5a 22
96Moyer's ClimbS 4a *131
97Moyer's VariationS 4b *86
98Social FoolsE1 5b 10
99Cobweb ArÍte/Little WandaE2 5c 6
100NowandaHVS 5a **228
101LandsickE1 5b *68
102LandsicknessE3 6a **39
103GainHVD 10
 Garden Face 
105Cave GullyD 58
106Capstone Climb
-
VD 15
107Cave Gully CrackHS 4b *109
108Chockstone ClimbHS 4a 49
109Garden Face CrackVS 4b *252
110Garden Face DirectVS 5a *189
111Garden Face IndirectD *217
112Gardoms Fence
-
D 12
113Heather Wall
-
HS 4b 13
114Small People
-
VS 5b 2
 Och Aye Wall 
116Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a *194
117Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *145
118Tartan RouteVS 5a *91
119Capstone GullyM *22
120Nerve Block
-
E5 6a  
121The Rink
-
E2 5b 1
122Slime CrackHVS 5a 10
123FantasyHVS 5b 7
124A Dream of White PotamusHVS 5a 2
125Byne's CrackS 4b **43
126The Working Man
-
E2 5b 2
127WaggyE7 6c *2
128Green Rib
-
E2 5c 5
129Green Crack
-
HS 4b 14
130Bad/Angry FoxV5 **4
131Little ArÍte
-
VS 4c *25
 Pogle's Wood 
133Pogle's Wood Left-Hand
-
V3 11
134Pogle's Wood
-
V4 **46
135Pogle's Wood Sit Start
-
V8 **11
 Moyer's Buttress 
137The Gritsone Treatyf7B **7
138Mo's Problemf7A+ * 
139Cave ArÍteHVS 5a *42
140StormbringerE3 6a **60
141Monotheism
-
E7 6b * 
142Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***635
143Imperfect Way
-
E3 5c  
144Biven's CrackE1 5b **102
145Enigma VariationE3 5c *12
146Perfect DayE5 6b ***38
147Perfect Day Direct Startf7B ***39
148Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b 30
149Keith's Other Corner Crack
-
VD 8
150Keith's ArÍte
-
VD 4a 3
151Problem Chimney
-
HVD 4a  
 Elliott's Buttress 
153Pining for the Fjords
-
S 4c 2
154Mr Three Degrees
-
E2 6a 1
155Pine Crack
-
S 5a 19
156Baton Route
-
VD 18
157Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4b **88
158Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *13
159The Eye of FaithE1 5c ***304
160Rhythmic ItchE1 5b **67
161Elliott's Buttress DirectHS 4b **449
162EvasionHVD 4a 8
 Dead Tree Wall 
164Jungle ArÍteS 4b 14
165Dead Tree WallHS 4b *40
166Liar/Pants on FIre
-
VS 5a 9
167Rumour
-
HVS 5b 5
168Gossip
-
HVS 5b 4
169Central Overlap
-
VS 4c  
170Right-Hand Flake
-
VD 1
171Flake Chimney
-
M 1
172Capstone Rib
-
HVS 5b *4
 Blacksmith's Wall 
174Striker's Rib
-
E1 5c 8
175Smithy
-
HVD 11
176Blacksmith's Wall
-
VD 11
177October Climb
-
HVD 12
178Spring Route
-
HS 4b 1
 Oread Buttress 
180Nymph's ArÍteVS 4c 16
181OreadVS 4c **163
182Yellow ChimneyM 12
183Drum Roll
-
V7 * 
184Another Green WorldV8 * 
 Bin Laden's Cave 
186Bin LillermuleV7 *12
187Bin Laden's Cave
-
V6 ***79
 *Gardom's Right-Hand* 
 Undertaker's Buttress 
190Gemstone
-
HVS 5a 3
191Milestone
-
S 4a 5
192BlazeVS 4c *14
193Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **178
194Hearse ArÍteE1 5b **131
195Coffin Nail
-
HVS 5a 5
196Rest in Pieces
-
VS 5b *3
 Marble Wall 
198Route III
-
VD 4
199Tales of the Black WidowerE5 6a *1
200Marshall's RouteHVS 5a 5
201White's RouteHS 4b 11
202Birthday ClimbHVD 14
203Pedestal ClimbHS 4a *15
204SelladoreE8 7a ** 
205Nursery SlabHVS 5a 10
206Nursery Cryme
-
HVD 4a 2
207Nursery Traverse
-
D 5
 Gardom's Unconquerable 
209Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *90
210Bilberry ChimneyHVD 4a 3
211CrottleE1 5b *28
212Stepped CrackD *52
213Golly
-
V0+ 1
214Gardom's UnconquerableVS 4c **205
215Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *27
216Willy
-
V1 1
217Vallum
-
E3 5c 1
218Boxing Clever
-
S 4a 2
 Chimney Face 
220Contempt
-
HVD 4a 13
221The ChimneyHVD 5
222Ball Bearing WallHS 4b 4
223Chimney Face
-
HS 4a 16
224The Backclip
-
HS 4b 1
225Stern Face
-
S 4b 9
 Tree Buttress 
227Tree ButtressVS 4b 34
228The Midas ManE3 6a 4
229Tree ClimbHS 4b 30
230Tree NeighbourS 4a 8
231Porridge eggE6 6a *6
232Third Time LuckyVS 4c *31
233Gom JabbarE8 6c * 
234Boon's Wad
-
E2 6a 1
235By-Pass RouteHS 4b 13
236Central CrackHVS 5b 10
237Wall FinishVS 4c 2
238AgadooE3 6b 1
239Agadoo Sit-StartV5 **1
240Albert SpansworthyE5 6b * 
 Wall Buttress 
242Nah'hanE8 6c ***9
243Make it SnappyE6 6b ***29
244Ecky ThumpE6 6c *1
245The CrocodileE3 5c **100
246Right-Hand CrackVS 4c *73
247Gnasher
-
E3 5c  
248Quandary Wall
-
HVD 4a 11
249Red Sky RibVD *29
250Split Slab
-
VS 4c 14
251Chunky Doorstep
-
HVS 5a 3
 Capillary Crack Buttress 
253Solomanf6A+ 1
254Squeeze Your Lemon
-
E1 6a 1
255Chav's Head
-
V3 2
256A Fearful Orangef6C+ **7
257A Fearful Head
-
V5 1
258Neutral Milk Hotel
-
V3 *3
259Two-Headed Boyf6C *11
260It's a GasE1 5c 2
261Jumping Jack FlashHVS 5b *2
262Broken ButtressVD 8
263Ladder Coinsf6B 1
264GamorillaHVS 5a 1
265Capillary CrackVS 4c *43
266First Blood
-
V0 1
 Grooved Wall Area 
268Whisky WallS 3c *23
269Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c 1
270Waterloo SunsetE3 5c ***90
271Midgey MealE3 5c *2
272Finale GrooveVS 5a *275
273Babylon's GrooveVS 5a *87
274Babylon's FinaleVS 5a 3
275Central GrooveVS 4b 30
276Tree GrooveVS 4b *160
277Tree Groove DirectVS 5a *17
278Right-Hand GrooveVS 4c 14
279Split CrackVS 4b 4
280Slanting Groove
-
D 7
 Apple Buttress 
282Layback CrackVS 5a *162
283Flake CrackHS 4b *158
284Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b 3
285N.M.C. CrackHVD 3c ***860
286Apple ArÍte DirectE4 5c *51
287Apple ArÍteVS 4b ***1202
288Apple CrackVD *456
289Apple CoreE2 6a 11
290Cider AppleHS 4a *222
291Giant's StaircaseS 4a *240
292BitterVS 5a *451
293Master of ThoughtE2 5c *63
294Velvet CracksVS 4b *455
295Apple Jack CrackVD *443
296CydraxHVS 5b *286
297CiderHVS 5a *160
298Double BumV6 **14
299Blenheim GullyVS 4c *25
300Blenheim ButtressE1 5a 15
301BlenheimE1 5a *25
302Wall and Chimney
-
HVD 2
303Beaufort
-
HVS 5b 3
304Three Trees Crack
-
VD 4
305OrchardE1 5a 5
 The Quarries 
307President's ArÍte
-
VS 4c *13
308Ross's Route
-
D 1
309All the President's MenE1 5b *9
310President's WallHVS 5a 7
311President's Wall DirectE2 5b 1
312Senator's Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
313Nervous Tension
-
E4 6b  
314Surface Tension
-
E4 6b  
315Lost BoyV5 *3
316Hide-Away Climb
-
VS 4c 1
317Dirty Business Left-HandV4 *2
318Dirty Business
-
V4 **8
319Plan DV9 2
320Business as UsualV5 **11
321Forward Thinking Sound Engineer
-
V7  
 Pillar Wall 
323Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **10
324Hired GoonsE8 6c *1
325Left-Hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **66
326Right-Hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a **45
327Elliott's CrackS 4a *102
328Headless Chicken
-
E1 5c  
329English VoodooV5 **34
330English Voodoo Sit-Start
-
V7 **14
 *Gardom's South End* 
 The Rocky Jumble 
333Sidepull Wall
-
V2 1
334The Teacup
-
V0- 8
335The Saucerer
-
V0 6
336Slob
-
V3 5
337The Wing
-
V3 3
 The Main Area 
339First Slab
-
V0 5
340First Slab Right
-
S 4
341Durian
-
S 4c 3
342Crap'alackinV7 1
343ArÍteV3 **49
344Wall Past The Flatty
-
V2 *55
345Small Ones are More JuicyV4 **8
346Tangerine
-
VS 4c *4
347Kumquat
-
HS 4c 8
348Strapadictionary
-
V0- 4
349Forge Ahead
-
V2 2
350Scoop Tower
-
V0 11
351The Mellow Bellow
-
V2 1
352The Scoop
-
V2 2
353The Sausage of King Meersbrook
-
V10 *1
354John Player SpecialV7 *3
 The Wardrobe 
356Leaning Block
-
M 7
357Wardrobe Bulge
-
V3 1
358Captain Cabinets
-
V4 *19
359Wardrobe RidgeV3 **26
360Suavito
-
V8 ***162
361EscondidoV9 1
362Scary Rib
-
V2  
 G-Thang Area 
364Swift NickV5  
365Left Triplet ArÍteV1 *10
366Left Triplet SlabV0 11
367Left Crack
-
V0- 9
368Middle Triplet ArÍte
-
V2 *12
369Middle Wall
-
V0 20
370Middle Triplet Ridge
-
V2 *21
371Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-StartV3 *7
372China In Your Hands
-
V8 ***14
373Barry Sheene
-
V9 **9
374G-Thang
-
V4 ***220
375G-Thang Sit-Start
-
V5 ***69
376Stung Left-HandV1 5
377Stung
-
V2 21
378The StingV2 19
 Moorside Rocks 
380Short ArÍtef6B *25
381Right ArÍtef6C *5
382Choked ChimneyVD 4b 39
383Charlotte DumplingE3 5c *14
384Will's Dynof8A **1
385SuperblocE8 6c * 
386Straight ChimneyHVD 4a *23
387Batter Patterf6C+ *1
388HomelessE8 6c * 
389BrazilE6 6b *1
390Brazil Startf6B+ *2
391Moorside CrackVS 5a *11
392Press GangE3 5c 2
393Moorside RibVS 5a *24
394The JackalopeE3 6b *29
395Small WorldsE3 6a 2
396Pillar ChimneyD 20
397Moorside Rocks Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b 1
 Stump Hole Cavern 
399Stump Cream
-
V1 2
400Stump Cream ExtensionV4 2
401Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)
-
V8 *11
402Stump Hole Cavern
-
V10 * 
403StumpyV0- 5
404Scout *V2  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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