Gardoms Edge

Climbs 350 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Access notes
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
3Scotswood RoadE4 6a 1
4Roadside AttractionE2 5c  
5Boiling OilE2 5c  
6Battlement WallHVS 5a  
7Sooty and SweepE5 6b  
8Rampart CornerS 2
9PortcullisM 2
10Turret ChimneyM 1
11Drawbridge SlabD 3
12Dungeon GullyM 1
13The KeepM 1
14The Watch TowerVD 2
16Leaf ClimbV4 6a 1
17Percy's RoofV6 6b 1
18A Tasty GraunchV7 6b 5
19First Roof LeftV3 6a 182
20First Roof MiddleV5 6b 68
21First Roof Right/WishboneV8 6c 9
22Joint CareV7 6b  
23Rock End RollV7 6c *2
24Mark's Roof Left-HandV5 6b **338
25Nigel's RoofV9 7a ***15
26Mark's RoofV8 6b **110
27Mark's Roof OriginalV6 6b **113
28Mark's Roof DirectV9 6c **2
29Mark's Roof CircuitV8 6b **20
30Dylan's VariantV7 6c 1
31Little ArêteV2 6a 23
32SeamstressV1 5b 21
33ProwstressV3 6a *65
34Ledge RoofV3 6a *16
35Ledge CrackV0- 5a 69
36Ledge WallV1 5c 56
37Ledge Wall Right-HandV0+ 5b *4
38West Wall LeftV0 4c 3
39West WallV2 5c 52
40Alcove NoseV4 6b 34
41Alcove Nose Sit-StartV8 6c 1
42Alcove ArêteV1 5b 22
43Ben's BulgeV8 6b *10
44The GrasperV5 6b 26
45Soft on the GV8 6c ***69
46Full PowerV11 7a **4
478 BallV13 7a *** 
48Rock Hard BishopV5 6b *27
49Soft GrooveV1 5b 49
50Soft Groove Sit-StartV5 6b **2
51Soft WallV0 5a 10
52Soft ArêteV0 5a 12
53Soft RibsV0- 4c 11
54KidneystoneV8 6c **33
55HeartlandV9 7a *2
57Black Wall NothingVS 4c 2
58Black Wall Route 1S 4a 14
59Colin's RouteS 4a 6
60Allen's RouteVS 4b 12
61Black Wall Route 2VS 5a 13
62Lovely Groove *f6C **16
63PromiseHVS 5a 6
64Green WallE4 6a  
65Tsetse FlyE1 5c *15
66Raging InsomniaE3 6a * 
67Mickey FinnE6 6b ***5
68NarcolepsyHVS 5a 9
69Black Wall TraverseHVS 5b  
70RoofiesE5 6b **1
71Sleeping SicknessE3 5c ***17
72Good KarmaE4 6b  
73Brown CrackS 4a *72
74Tower VariationHVD 4a 2
75The RattleHVS 5a 1
76Diamond BackE2 5c  
77North End GirdleHVS 5a  
79ThunderVS 4c 10
80Four HorsemenE2 5b **26
81Lightning WallHVS 5a **35
82The IglooE5 6b *2
83Spanish FlyE7 6c **4
84Afrof6B *2
85Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **22
86Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b **38
87Infirmary GrooveHS 4b 33
89TractionVS 4c *42
90Bloc Stenof6C *5
91Gardoms GateVD *75
92Corner CrackD 61
93Grey CrackVD 64
94AttractionHVS 5a 20
95Moyer's ClimbS 4a *115
96Moyer's VariationS 4b *77
97Social FoolsE1 5b 9
98Cobweb Arête/Little WandaE2 5c 5
100NowandaHVS 5a **163
101LandsickE1 5b *58
102LandsicknessE3 6a **30
103GainHVD 9
104Cave GullyD 51
105Capstone ClimbVD 15
106Cave Gully CrackHS 4b *88
107Chockstone ClimbHS 4a 45
108Garden Face CrackVS 4b *207
109Garden Face DirectVS 5a *149
110Garden Face IndirectD *174
111Gardoms FenceD 11
112Heather WallHS 4b 10
113Small PeopleVS 5b 1
115Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a *173
116Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *125
117Tartan RouteVS 5a *80
118Capstone GullyM *20
119Nerve BlockE5 6a  
120Slime CrackHVS 5a 9
121The RinkE2 5b 1
122FantasyHVS 5b 6
123A Dream of White Potamus *HVS 5a 1
124Byne's CrackS 4b **32
125The Working ManE2 5b 1
126WaggyE7 6c *1
127Green RibE2 5c 3
128Green CrackHS 4b 12
129Bad/Angry FoxV5 6b **3
130Little ArêteVS 4c *20
132Pogle's Wood Left-HandV3 6b 9
133Pogle's WoodV4 6b **40
134Pogle's Wood Sit StartV8 6c **8
136The Gritsone Treatyf7B **4
137Mo's Problemf7A+ * 
138Cave ArêteHVS 5a *38
139StormbringerE3 6a **38
140MonotheismE7 6b * 
141Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***444
142Imperfect WayE3 5c  
143Biven's CrackE1 5b **72
144Enigma VariationE3 5c *11
145Perfect DayE5 6b ***20
146Perfect Day Direct Startf7B ***23
147Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b 24
148Keith's Other Corner CrackVD 7
149Keith's ArêteVD 4a 3
150Problem ChimneyHVD 4a  
152Pining for the FjordsS 4c 1
153Mr Three DegreesE2 6a 1
154Pine CrackS 5a 14
155Baton RouteVD 15
156Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4b **67
157Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *13
158The Eye of FaithE1 5c ***234
159Rhythmic ItchE1 5b **54
160Elliott's Buttress DirectHS 4b **359
161EvasionHVD 4a 5
163Jungle ArêteS 4b 8
164Dead Tree WallHS 4b *34
165Liar/Pants on FIreVS 5a 8
166RumourHVS 5b 5
167GossipHVS 5b 4
168Central OverlapVS 4c  
169Right-Hand FlakeVD 1
170Flake ChimneyM 1
171Capstone RibHVS 5b *4
173Striker's RibE1 5c 7
174SmithyHVD 10
175Blacksmith's WallVD 10
176October ClimbHVD 11
177Spring RouteHS 4b 1
179Nymph's ArêteVS 4c 13
180OreadVS 4c **131
181Yellow ChimneyM 11
182Drum RollV7 6c * 
183Another Green WorldV8 6c * 
185Bin LillermuleV7 6c *4
186Bin Laden's CaveV6 6b ***55
189GemstoneHVS 5a 2
190MilestoneS 4a 4
191BlazeVS 4c *12
192Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **148
193Hearse ArêteE1 5b **96
194Coffin NailHVS 5a 3
195Rest in PiecesVS 5b *2
197Route IIIVD 3
198Tales of the Black WidowerE5 6a *1
199Marshall's RouteHVS 5a 4
200White's RouteHS 4b 11
201Birthday ClimbHVD 13
202Pedestal ClimbHS 4a *14
203SelladoreE8 7a ** 
204Nursery SlabHVS 5a 10
205Nursery CrymeHVD 4a 2
206Nursery TraverseD 4
208Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *83
209Bilberry ChimneyHVD 4a 2
210CrottleE1 5b *25
211Stepped CrackD *49
212GollyV0+ 5b 1
213Gardom's UnconquerableVS 4c **162
214WillyV1 5b  
215VallumE3 5c  
216Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *24
217Boxing CleverS 4a 1
219ContemptHVD 4a 13
220The ChimneyHVD 5
221Ball Bearing WallHS 4b 4
222Chimney FaceHS 4a 15
223The BackclipHS 4b 1
224Stern FaceS 4b 9
226Tree ButtressVS 4b 31
227The Midas ManE3 6a 4
228Tree ClimbHS 4b 29
229Tree NeighbourS 4a 6
230Porridge eggE6 6a *6
231Third Time LuckyVS 4c *26
232Gom JabbarE8 6c * 
233Boon's WadE2 6a 1
234By-Pass RouteHS 4b 13
235Central CrackHVS 5b 7
236Wall FinishVS 4c 2
237AgadooE3 6b 1
238Agadoo Sit-StartV5 6b **1
239Albert SpansworthyE5 6b * 
241Nah'hanE8 6c ***8
242Make it SnappyE6 6b ***18
243Ecky ThumpE6 6c *1
244The CrocodileE3 5c **74
245Right-Hand CrackVS 4c *63
246GnasherE3 5c  
247Quandary WallHVD 4a 10
248Red Sky RibVD *24
249Split SlabVS 4c 14
250Chunky DoorstepHVS 5a 3
252Solomanf6A+ 1
253Squeeze Your LemonE1 6a 1
254Chav's HeadV3 6a 1
255A Fearful Orangef6C+ **4
256A Fearful HeadV5 6a  
257Neutral Milk HotelV3 6a *1
258Two-Headed Boyf6C *9
259It's a GasE1 5c 1
260Jumping Jack FlashHVS 5b *1
261Broken ButtressVD 8
262Ladder Coinsf6B 1
263GamorillaHVS 5a 1
264Capillary CrackVS 4c *41
265First BloodV0 5b  
267Whisky WallS 3c *23
268Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c 1
269Waterloo SunsetE3 5c ***59
270Midgey MealE3 5c *2
271Finale GrooveVS 5a *230
272Babylon's GrooveVS 5a *74
273Babylon's FinaleVS 5a  
274Central GrooveVS 4b 25
275Tree GrooveVS 4b *148
276Tree Groove DirectVS 5a *3
277Right-Hand GrooveVS 4c 14
278Split CrackVS 4b 3
279Slanting GrooveD 6
281Layback CrackVS 5a *147
282Flake CrackHS 4b *145
283Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b 2
284N.M.C. CrackHVD 3c ***703
285Apple Arête DirectE4 5c *45
286Apple ArêteVS 4b ***964
287Apple CrackVD *382
288Apple CoreE2 6a 6
289Cider AppleHS 4a *188
290Giant's StaircaseS 4a *202
291BitterVS 5a *383
292Master of ThoughtE2 5c *54
293Velvet CracksVS 4b *376
294Apple Jack CrackVD *379
295CydraxHVS 5b *246
296CiderHVS 5a *136
297Double BumV6 6c **12
298Blenheim GullyVS 4c *23
299Blenheim ButtressE1 5a 14
300BlenheimE1 5a *25
301Wall and ChimneyHVD 2
302BeaufortHVS 5b 3
303Three Trees CrackVD 3
304OrchardE1 5a 5
306President's ArêteVS 4c *10
307Ross's RouteD 1
308All the President's MenE1 5b *9
309President's WallHVS 5a 7
310President's Wall DirectE2 5b 1
311Senator's CrackHVS 5a 3
312Nervous TensionE4 6b  
313Surface TensionE4 6b  
314Lost BoyV5 *3
315Hide-Away ClimbVS 4c 1
316Dirty Business Left-HandV4 6b *2
317Dirty BusinessV4 6b **7
318Plan DV9 7a 2
319Business as UsualV5 6b **11
320Forward Thinking Sound EngineerV7 6c  
322Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **9
323Hired GoonsE8 6c *1
324Left-Hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **47
325Right-Hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a **39
326Elliott's CrackS 4a *90
327Headless ChickenE1 5c  
328English VoodooV5 6b **30
329English Voodoo Sit-StartV7 6c **12
332Sidepull WallV2 6a 1
333The TeacupV0- 4b 8
334The SaucererV0 5a 6
335SlobV3 6a 5
336The WingV3 6a 3
338First SlabV0 5a 5
339First Slab RightS 3
340DurianS 4c 3
341Crap'alackinV7 6b 1
342ArêteV3 6a **42
343Wall Past The FlattyV2 5c *50
344Small Ones are More JuicyV4 6b **8
345TangerineVS 4c *4
346KumquatHS 4c 8
347StrapadictionaryV0- 4b 4
348Forge AheadV2 5c 1
349Scoop TowerV0 5a 11
350The Mellow BellowV2 5c 1
351The ScoopV2 5c 2
352The Sausage of King MeersbrookV10 7a * 
353John Player SpecialV7 6b *3
355Leaning BlockM 7
356Wardrobe BulgeV3 6b 1
357Captain CabinetsV4 6b *16
358Wardrobe RidgeV3 6b **19
359SuavitoV8 6c ***72
360EscondidoV9 6c 1
361Scary RibV2 5c  
363Swift NickV5 6b  
364Left Triplet ArêteV1 5b *6
365Left Triplet SlabV0 5a 7
366Left CrackV0- 4a 8
367Middle Triplet ArêteV2 5c *11
368Middle WallV0 5a 15
369Middle Triplet RidgeV2 5c *18
370Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-StartV3 6a *6
371China In Your HandsV8 6c ***4
372Barry SheeneV9 7a **8
373G-ThangV4 6a ***165
374G-Thang Sit-StartV5 6b ***57
375Stung Left-HandV1 5b 4
376StungV2 5c 14
377The StingV2 5c 13
379Stump CreamV1 5c 2
380Stump Cream ExtensionV4 6b 2
381Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)V8 6c *11
382Stump Hole CavernV10 7a * 
383StumpyV0- 4a 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

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