Gardoms Edge

Climbs 344 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Access notes
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
3Scotswood RoadE4 6a
4Roadside AttractionE2 5c
5Boiling OilE2 5c
6Battlement WallHVS 5a
7Sooty and SweepE5 6b
8Rampart CornerS
10Turret ChimneyM
11Drawbridge SlabD
12Dungeon GullyM
13The KeepM
14The Watch TowerVD
16Leaf ClimbV4 6a
17Percy's RoofV6 6b
18Joint CareV7 6b
19A Tasty GraunchV7 6b
20First Roof LeftV3 6a
21First Roof MiddleV5 6b
22First Roof Right/WishboneV9 6c
23Rock End RollV7 6c
24Mark's Roof Left-HandV5 6b **
25Nigel's RoofV9 7a ***
26Mark's RoofV8 6b **
27Mark's Roof OriginalV6 6b **
28Mark's Roof DirectV9 6c **
29Mark's Roof CircuitV8 6b **
30Dylan's VariantV7 6c
31Little ArêteV2 6a
32SeamstressV1 5b
33ProwstressV3 6a *
34Ledge RoofV3 6a *
35Ledge CrackV0- 5a
36Ledge WallV1 5c
37Ledge Wall Right-HandV0+ 5b *
38West WallV2 5c
39West Wall Right-HandV0+ 5b
40Alcove NoseV4 6b
41Alcove Nose Sit-StartV8 6c
42Alcove ArêteV1 5b
43Ben's BulgeV8 6b *
44The GrasperV5 6b
45Soft on the GV8 6c ***
46Full PowerV11 7a **
478 BallV13 7a ***
48Rock Hard BishopV5 6b *
49Soft GrooveV5 6b
50Soft WallV0 5a
51Soft ArêteV0 5a
52Soft RibsV0- 4c
53KidneystoneV8 6c **
54HeartlandV9 7a *
56Black Wall NothingVS 4c
57Black Wall Route 1S 4a
58Colin's RouteS 4a
59Allen's RouteVS 4b
60Black Wall Route 2HVS 5a
61Lovely Groove *f6C **
62PromiseHVS 5a
63Green WallE4 6a
64Tsetse FlyE1 5c *
65Raging InsomniaE3 6a *
66Mickey FinnE6 6b ***
67NarcolepsyHVS 5b *
68Black Wall TraverseHVS 5b
69RoofiesE5 6b **
70Sleeping SicknessE3 5c **
71Good KarmaE4 6b
72Brown CrackVD **
73Tower VariationHVD 4a
74The RattleHVS 5a
75Diamond BackE3 5c
76North End GirdleHVS 5a
78ThunderHVS 5a
79Four HorsemenE2 5b **
80Lightning WallHVS 5a **
81The IglooE5 6b *
82Spanish FlyE6 6c **
83AfroV4 6a *
84Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **
85Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b *
86Infirmary GrooveVS 4b
88TractionVS 4c
89Bloc StenoV5 *
90Gardoms GateVD
91Corner CrackD
92Grey CrackHD
93AttractionHVS 5a
94Moyer's ClimbHS 4b *
95Moyer's VariationS 4c
96Social FoolsE1 5b
97Cobweb Arête/Little WandaE2 5c
98NowandaHVS 5a **
99LandsickE1 5b *
100LandsicknessE3 6a **
102Cave GullyHD
103Capstone ClimbVD
104Cave Gully CrackS 4b
105Chockstone ClimbHS 4a
106Garden Face CrackHS 4b *
107Garden Face DirectVS 5a *
108Garden Face IndirectD *
109Gardoms FenceD
110Heather WallHS 4b
111Small PeopleVS 5b
113Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a *
114Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *
115Tartan RouteVS 5a *
116Capstone GullyM *
117Nerve BlockE5 6a
118Slime CrackVS 5a
119The RinkE2 5b
120FantasyHVS 5b
121A Dream of White Potamus *HVS 5a
122Byne's CrackS 4b *
123The Working ManE2 5b
124WaggyE7 6c *
125Green RibE2 5c
126Green CrackHS 4b
127Little ArêteVS 4c *
128Bad/Angry Fox *V5 6b **
130Pogle's Wood Left-HandV3 6b
131Pogle's WoodV4 6b **
132Pogle's Wood Sit StartV8 6c **
134The Gritsone TreatyV8 6c ***
135Mo's ProblemV7 6c
136Cave ArêteHVS 5a *
137StormbringerE3 5c **
138MonotheismE7 6b *
139Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***
140Imperfect WayE3 5c
141Biven's CrackE1 5b **
142Enigma VariationE3 5c *
143Perfect DayE5 6b ***
144Perfect Day Direct StartV7 6c **
145Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b
146Keith's Other Corner CrackVD
147Keith's ArêteVD 4a
148Problem ChimneyHVD 4a
150Pining for the FjordsS 4c
151Mr Three DegreesE2 6a
152Pine CrackS 5a
153Baton RouteVD
154Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4c *
155Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *
156The Eye of FaithE1 5c ***
157Rhythmic ItchE1 5b **
158Elliott's Buttress DirectVS 4b **
159EvasionHVD 4a
161Jungle ArêteHS 4b
162Dead Tree WallHS 4b *
163Liar/Pants on FIreVS 5a
164RumourHVS 5b
165GossipHVS 5b
166Central OverlapVS 4c
167Right-Hand FlakeVD
168Flake ChimneyM
169Capstone RibHVS 5b *
171Striker's RibE1 5c
173Blacksmith's WallVD
174October ClimbHVD
175Spring RouteHS 4b
177Nymph's ArêteVS 4c *
178OreadVS 4b **
179Yellow ChimneyM
180Drum RollV7 6c
181Another Green WorldV8 6c
183Bin LillermuleV7 6c *
184Bin Laden's CaveV5 6b *
187GemstoneHVS 5a
188MilestoneS 4a
189BlazeVS 4c
190Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **
191Hearse ArêteE1 5b **
192Coffin NailHVS 5a
193Rest in PiecesVS 5b *
195Route IIIVD
196Tales of the Black WidowerE5 6a **
197Marshall's RouteHVS 5a
198White's RouteHS 4b
199Birthday ClimbVD
200Pedestal ClimbHS 4a
201Nursery SlabHVS 5a
202Nursery CrymeHVD 4a
203Nursery TraverseD
205Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *
206Bilberry ChimneyHVD 4a
207CrottleE1 5b
208Stepped CrackHD *
209GollyV0+ 5b
210Gardom's UnconquerableVS 4c **
211WillyV1 5b
212VallumE3 5c
213Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *
214Boxing CleverS 4a
216ContemptHVD 4a
217The ChimneyHVD
218Ball Bearing WallHS 4b
219Chimney FaceHS 4a
220The BackclipHS 4b
221Stern FaceS 4b
223Tree ButtressVS 4b
224The Midas ManE4 6b *
225Tree ClimbS 4b
226Tree NeighbourS 4b
227Porridge eggE6 6a *
228Third Time LuckyVS 4b *
229Gom JabbarE8 6c *
230Boon's WadE2 6a
231By-Pass RouteS 4b
232Central CrackHVS 5b *
233Wall FinishVS 4c *
234AgadooE3 6b **
235Agadoo Sit-StartV5 6b **
236Albert SpansworthyE5 6b
238Nah'hanE8 6c ***
239Make it SnappyE6 6b ***
240Ecky ThumpE7 6c **
241The CrocodileE3 5c ***
242Right-Hand CrackVS 4c *
243GnasherE3 5c
244Quandary WallHVD 4a
245Red Sky RibHD *
246Split SlabVS 4c
247Chunky DoorstepHVS 5a
249SolomanV3 6a
250Squeeze Your LemonE1 6a
251A Fearful OrangeV5 6b **
252Neutral Milk HotelV2 6a
253Two-Headed BoyV5 6b
254It's a GasE1 5c
255Jumping Jack FlashHVS 5b
256Broken ButtressVD
257Ladder CoinsV3 6b
258GamorillaVS 5a
259Capillary CrackVS 4b *
260First BloodV0 5b
262Whisky WallS *
263Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c
264Waterloo SunsetE3 5c **
265Midgey MealE3 5c *
266Finale GrooveVS 5a *
267Babylon's GrooveVS 4c *
268Central GrooveVS 4c
269Tree GrooveVS 4b *
270Right-Hand GrooveVS 5a
271Split CrackVS 4b
272Slanting GrooveD
274Layback CrackVS 5a *
275Flake CrackHS 4b *
276Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b
277N.M.C. CrackVD **
278Apple Arête DirectE3 5c *
279Apple ArêteVS 4b ***
280Apple CrackHD *
281Apple CoreE2 6a
282Cider AppleS 4a *
283Giant's StaircaseHVD 4a *
284BitterVS 5a *
285Master of ThoughtE2 6a *
286Velvet CracksHS 4b
287Apple Jack CrackVD *
288CydraxHVS 5b *
289CiderVS 5a *
290Double BumV6 6c **
291Blenheim GullyHS 4b
292Blenheim ButtressHVS 5a
293BlenheimE1 5a **
294Wall and ChimneyHVD
295BeaufortHVS 5b
296Three Trees CrackVD
297OrchardE1 5a
299President's ArêteVS 4c *
300Ross's RouteD
301All the President's MenE1 5b *
302President's WallHVS 5a
303President's Wall DirectE2 5b
304Senator's CrackHVS 5a
305Nervous TensionE4 6b
306Surface TensionE4 6b
307Hide-Away ClimbVS 4c
308Dirty Business Left-HandV3 6b *
309Dirty BusinessV3 6b **
310Plan DV9 7a
311Business as UsualV6 6b **
312Forward Thinking Sound EngineerV7 6c
313Lost Boy *f6C *
315Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **
316Hired GoonsE8 6c ***
317Left-Hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **
318Right-Hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a *
319Elliott's CrackS 4a **
320Headless ChickenE1 5c
321English VoodooV6 6b
322English Voodoo Sit-StartV8 6c
325Sidepull WallV2 6a
326The TeacupV0- 4b
327The SaucererV0 5a
328SlobV3 6a
329The WingV3 6a
331First SlabV0 5a
332First Slab RightS
333DurianS 4c
334ArêteV3 6a **
335Wall Past The FlattyV1 5c
336Small Ones are More JuicyV4 6b **
337TangerineVS 4c *
338KumquatHS 4c
339StrapadictionaryV0- 4b
340Forge AheadV2 5c
341Scoop TowerV0 5a
342The Mellow BellowV2 5c
343The ScoopV2 5c
344The Sausage of King MeersbrookV10 7a
345John Player SpecialV7 6b *
347Crap'alackin *f7A+
348Leaning BlockM
349Wardrobe BulgeV3 6b
350Captain CabinetsV4 6b *
351Wardrobe RidgeV3 6b **
352SuavitoV8 6c ***
353EscondidoV9 6c
354Scary RibV2 5c
356Swift Nick *f6C+ 6b
357Left Triplet ArêteV1 5b
358Left Triplet SlabV0 5a
359Left CrackV0- 4a
360Middle Triplet ArêteV2 5c
361Middle WallV0 5a
362Middle Triplet RidgeV2 5c *
363Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-StartV3 6a
364China In Your HandsV8 6c **
365Barry SheeneV9 7a ***
366G-ThangV3 6a ***
367G-Thang Sit-StartV5 6b ***
368StungV1 5c
369Stung Left-HandV1 5b
370The StingV1 5c
372Stump CreamV1 5c
373Stump Cream ExtensionV4 6b
374Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)V8 6c *
375Stump Hole CavernV10 7a *
376StumpyV0- 4a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Loved this route, steep & fingery
simon mitchie - 16/Jul/10
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These details were last updated on 15/Oct/2014

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