Gardoms Edge

Climbs 344 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Access notes
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 *GARDOM'S LEFT-HAND*  
 BATTLEMENT BUTTRESS  
3Scotswood RoadE4 6a 1
4Roadside AttractionE2 5c  
5Boiling OilE2 5c  
6Battlement WallHVS 5a  
7Sooty and SweepE5 6b  
8Rampart CornerS 2
9PortcullisM 2
10Turret ChimneyM 1
11Drawbridge SlabD 3
12Dungeon GullyM 1
13The KeepM 1
14The Watch TowerVD 2
 GARDOM'S NORTH BOULDERS  
16Leaf ClimbV4 6a  
17Percy's RoofV6 6b 1
18Joint CareV7 6b  
19A Tasty GraunchV7 6b 4
20First Roof LeftV3 6a 168
21First Roof MiddleV5 6b 61
22First Roof Right/WishboneV9 6c 7
23Rock End RollV7 6c 1
24Mark's Roof Left-HandV5 6b **323
25Nigel's RoofV9 7a ***12
26Mark's RoofV8 6b **99
27Mark's Roof OriginalV6 6b **109
28Mark's Roof DirectV9 6c **2
29Mark's Roof CircuitV8 6b **18
30Dylan's VariantV7 6c 1
31Little ArêteV2 6a 19
32SeamstressV1 5b 20
33ProwstressV3 6a *64
34Ledge RoofV3 6a *15
35Ledge CrackV0- 5a 68
36Ledge WallV1 5c 54
37Ledge Wall Right-HandV0+ 5b *4
38West WallV2 5c 48
39West Wall Right-HandV0+ 5b  
40Alcove NoseV4 6b 34
41Alcove Nose Sit-StartV8 6c 1
42Alcove ArêteV1 5b 21
43Ben's BulgeV8 6b *9
44The GrasperV5 6b 24
45Soft on the GV8 6c ***53
46Full PowerV11 7a **3
478 BallV13 7a *** 
48Rock Hard BishopV5 6b *26
49Soft GrooveV5 6b 43
50Soft WallV0 5a 9
51Soft ArêteV0 5a 10
52Soft RibsV0- 4c 9
53KidneystoneV8 6c **24
54HeartlandV9 7a *2
 BLACK WALL AREA  
56Black Wall NothingVS 4c 2
57Black Wall Route 1S 4a 14
58Colin's RouteS 4a 6
59Allen's RouteVS 4b 11
60Black Wall Route 2HVS 5a 13
61Lovely Groove *f6C **16
62PromiseHVS 5a 6
63Green WallE4 6a  
64Tsetse FlyE1 5c *15
65Raging InsomniaE3 6a * 
66Mickey FinnE6 6b ***5
67NarcolepsyHVS 5b *8
68Black Wall TraverseHVS 5b  
69RoofiesE5 6b **1
70Sleeping SicknessE3 5c **17
71Good KarmaE4 6b  
72Brown CrackVD **70
73Tower VariationHVD 4a 1
74The RattleHVS 5a 1
75Diamond BackE3 5c  
76North End GirdleHVS 5a  
 OVERHANG BUTTRESS  
78ThunderHVS 5a 10
79Four HorsemenE2 5b **25
80Lightning WallHVS 5a **35
81The IglooE5 6b *1
82Spanish FlyE6 6c **4
83AfroV4 6a * 
84Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **21
85Overhang Buttress OrdinaryVS 4b *36
86Infirmary GrooveVS 4b 32
 NOWANDA BUTTRESS  
88TractionVS 4c 42
89Bloc StenoV5 *4
90Gardoms GateVD 74
91Corner CrackD 61
92Grey CrackHD 64
93AttractionHVS 5a 20
94Moyer's ClimbHS 4b *113
95Moyer's VariationS 4c 74
96Social FoolsE1 5b 9
97Cobweb Arête/Little WandaE2 5c 5
98NowandaHVS 5a **160
99LandsickE1 5b *55
100LandsicknessE3 6a **28
101GainHVD 9
102Cave GullyHD 50
103Capstone ClimbVD 15
104Cave Gully CrackS 4b 88
105Chockstone ClimbHS 4a 45
106Garden Face CrackHS 4b *204
107Garden Face DirectVS 5a *146
108Garden Face IndirectD *173
109Gardoms FenceD 11
110Heather WallHS 4b 9
111Small PeopleVS 5b 1
 OCH AYE WALL  
113Och Aye Wall IndirectVS 5a *171
114Och Aye Wall DirectVS 5b *123
115Tartan RouteVS 5a *78
116Capstone GullyM *20
117Nerve BlockE5 6a  
118Slime CrackVS 5a 9
119The RinkE2 5b 1
120FantasyHVS 5b 6
121A Dream of White Potamus *HVS 5a 1
122Byne's CrackS 4b *31
123The Working ManE2 5b 1
124WaggyE7 6c *1
125Green RibE2 5c 3
126Green CrackHS 4b 12
127Little ArêteVS 4c *18
128Bad/Angry Fox *V5 6b **2
 POGLE'S WOOD  
130Pogle's Wood Left-HandV3 6b 8
131Pogle's WoodV4 6b **39
132Pogle's Wood Sit StartV8 6c **8
 MOYER'S BUTTRESS  
134The Gritsone TreatyV8 6c ***4
135Mo's ProblemV7 6c  
136Cave ArêteHVS 5a *36
137StormbringerE3 5c **37
138MonotheismE7 6b * 
139Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***438
140Imperfect WayE3 5c  
141Biven's CrackE1 5b **68
142Enigma VariationE3 5c *10
143Perfect DayE5 6b ***18
144Perfect Day Direct StartV7 6c **23
145Keith's Corner CrackHS 4b 23
146Keith's Other Corner CrackVD 7
147Keith's ArêteVD 4a 3
148Problem ChimneyHVD 4a  
 ELLIOT'S BUTTRESS  
150Pining for the FjordsS 4c 1
151Mr Three DegreesE2 6a 1
152Pine CrackS 5a 14
153Baton RouteVD 15
154Elliott's Buttress IndirectVS 4c *66
155Seventy One White MiceE2 6a *13
156The Eye of FaithE1 5c ***233
157Rhythmic ItchE1 5b **55
158Elliott's Buttress DirectVS 4b **352
159EvasionHVD 4a 4
 DEAD TREE WALL  
161Jungle ArêteHS 4b 8
162Dead Tree WallHS 4b *32
163Liar/Pants on FIreVS 5a 8
164RumourHVS 5b 5
165GossipHVS 5b 4
166Central OverlapVS 4c  
167Right-Hand FlakeVD  
168Flake ChimneyM  
169Capstone RibHVS 5b *4
 BLACKSMITH'S WALL  
171Striker's RibE1 5c 7
172SmithyHVD 10
173Blacksmith's WallVD 10
174October ClimbHVD 11
175Spring RouteHS 4b 1
 OREAD BUTTRESS  
177Nymph's ArêteVS 4c *13
178OreadVS 4b **126
179Yellow ChimneyM 11
180Drum RollV7 6c  
181Another Green WorldV8 6c  
 BIN LADEN'S CAVE  
183Bin LillermuleV7 6c *4
184Bin Laden's CaveV5 6b *51
 *GARDOM'S RIGHT-HAND*  
 UNDERTAKER'S BUTTRESS  
187GemstoneHVS 5a 2
188MilestoneS 4a 4
189BlazeVS 4c 12
190Undertaker's ButtressVS 4c **140
191Hearse ArêteE1 5b **95
192Coffin NailHVS 5a 3
193Rest in PiecesVS 5b *2
 MARBLE WALL  
195Route IIIVD 2
196Tales of the Black WidowerE5 6a **1
197Marshall's RouteHVS 5a 4
198White's RouteHS 4b 11
199Birthday ClimbVD 13
200Pedestal ClimbHS 4a 14
201Nursery SlabHVS 5a 10
202Nursery CrymeHVD 4a 1
203Nursery TraverseD 3
 BILBERRY BUTTRESS  
205Bilberry ButtressVS 5a *83
206Bilberry ChimneyHVD 4a 1
207CrottleE1 5b 24
208Stepped CrackHD *47
209GollyV0+ 5b 1
210Gardom's UnconquerableVS 4c **158
211WillyV1 5b  
212VallumE3 5c  
213Whillans' Blind VariantE1 5b *23
214Boxing CleverS 4a  
 CHIMNEY FACE  
216ContemptHVD 4a 13
217The ChimneyHVD 3
218Ball Bearing WallHS 4b 3
219Chimney FaceHS 4a 15
220The BackclipHS 4b 1
221Stern FaceS 4b 9
 TREE BUTTRESS  
223Tree ButtressVS 4b 27
224The Midas ManE4 6b *4
225Tree ClimbS 4b 28
226Tree NeighbourS 4b 3
227Porridge eggE6 6a *6
228Third Time LuckyVS 4b *26
229Gom JabbarE8 6c * 
230Boon's WadE2 6a 1
231By-Pass RouteS 4b 13
232Central CrackHVS 5b *7
233Wall FinishVS 4c *1
234AgadooE3 6b **1
235Agadoo Sit-StartV5 6b **1
236Albert SpansworthyE5 6b  
 WALL BUTTRESS  
238Nah'hanE8 6c ***6
239Make it SnappyE6 6b ***16
240Ecky ThumpE7 6c **1
241The CrocodileE3 5c ***69
242Right-Hand CrackVS 4c *60
243GnasherE3 5c  
244Quandary WallHVD 4a 10
245Red Sky RibHD *24
246Split SlabVS 4c 15
247Chunky DoorstepHVS 5a 3
 CAPILLARY CRACK BUTTRESS  
249SolomanV3 6a 1
250Squeeze Your LemonE1 6a 1
251A Fearful OrangeV5 6b **4
252Neutral Milk HotelV2 6a 1
253Two-Headed BoyV5 6b 9
254It's a GasE1 5c 1
255Jumping Jack FlashHVS 5b 1
256Broken ButtressVD 7
257Ladder CoinsV3 6b 1
258GamorillaVS 5a 1
259Capillary CrackVS 4b *41
260First BloodV0 5b  
 GROOVED WALL  
262Whisky WallS *23
263Muswell HillbilliesE4 5c 1
264Waterloo SunsetE3 5c **59
265Midgey MealE3 5c *1
266Finale GrooveVS 5a *218
267Babylon's GrooveVS 4c *70
268Central GrooveVS 4c 25
269Tree GrooveVS 4b *143
270Right-Hand GrooveVS 5a 13
271Split CrackVS 4b 1
272Slanting GrooveD 4
 APPLE BUTTRESS  
274Layback CrackVS 5a *142
275Flake CrackHS 4b *144
276Twilight's Last GleamingE2 5b 2
277N.M.C. CrackVD **685
278Apple Arête DirectE3 5c *44
279Apple ArêteVS 4b ***939
280Apple CrackHD *371
281Apple CoreE2 6a 6
282Cider AppleS 4a *184
283Giant's StaircaseHVD 4a *196
284BitterVS 5a *373
285Master of ThoughtE2 6a *54
286Velvet CracksHS 4b 365
287Apple Jack CrackVD *363
288CydraxHVS 5b *237
289CiderVS 5a *131
290Double BumV6 6c **11
291Blenheim GullyHS 4b 23
292Blenheim ButtressHVS 5a 14
293BlenheimE1 5a **25
294Wall and ChimneyHVD 1
295BeaufortHVS 5b 3
296Three Trees CrackVD 1
297OrchardE1 5a 5
 THE QUARRIES  
299President's ArêteVS 4c *10
300Ross's RouteD  
301All the President's MenE1 5b *8
302President's WallHVS 5a 6
303President's Wall DirectE2 5b 1
304Senator's CrackHVS 5a 3
305Nervous TensionE4 6b  
306Surface TensionE4 6b  
307Hide-Away ClimbVS 4c 1
308Dirty Business Left-HandV3 6b *2
309Dirty BusinessV3 6b **7
310Plan DV9 7a 2
311Business as UsualV6 6b **11
312Forward Thinking Sound EngineerV7 6c  
313Lost Boy *f6C *3
 PILLAR WALL  
315Charlotte RamplingE6 6b **9
316Hired GoonsE8 6c ***1
317Left-Hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **47
318Right-Hand Pillar CrackHVS 5a *39
319Elliott's CrackS 4a **88
320Headless ChickenE1 5c  
321English VoodooV6 6b 29
322English Voodoo Sit-StartV8 6c 12
 *GARDOM'S SOUTH END*  
 THE ROCKY JUMBLE  
325Sidepull WallV2 6a  
326The TeacupV0- 4b 7
327The SaucererV0 5a 6
328SlobV3 6a 5
329The WingV3 6a 3
 THE MAIN AREA  
331First SlabV0 5a 5
332First Slab RightS 3
333DurianS 4c 2
334ArêteV3 6a **40
335Wall Past The FlattyV1 5c 49
336Small Ones are More JuicyV4 6b **7
337TangerineVS 4c *2
338KumquatHS 4c 7
339StrapadictionaryV0- 4b 3
340Forge AheadV2 5c  
341Scoop TowerV0 5a 9
342The Mellow BellowV2 5c  
343The ScoopV2 5c  
344The Sausage of King MeersbrookV10 7a  
345John Player SpecialV7 6b *3
 THE WARDROBE  
347Crap'alackin *f7A+ 1
348Leaning BlockM 5
349Wardrobe BulgeV3 6b  
350Captain CabinetsV4 6b *15
351Wardrobe RidgeV3 6b **19
352SuavitoV8 6c ***57
353EscondidoV9 6c  
354Scary RibV2 5c  
 G-THANG AREA  
356Swift Nick *f6C+ 6b  
357Left Triplet ArêteV1 5b 4
358Left Triplet SlabV0 5a 4
359Left CrackV0- 4a 7
360Middle Triplet ArêteV2 5c 9
361Middle WallV0 5a 11
362Middle Triplet RidgeV2 5c *17
363Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-StartV3 6a 6
364China In Your HandsV8 6c **4
365Barry SheeneV9 7a ***7
366G-ThangV3 6a ***148
367G-Thang Sit-StartV5 6b ***51
368StungV1 5c 9
369Stung Left-HandV1 5b 4
370The StingV1 5c 8
 *STUMP HOLE CAVERN*  
372Stump CreamV1 5c 2
373Stump Cream ExtensionV4 6b 2
374Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)V8 6c *11
375Stump Hole CavernV10 7a * 
376StumpyV0- 4a 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Loved this route, steep & fingery
simon mitchie - 16/Jul/10
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These details were last updated on 15/Oct/2014
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