Rockfax Description
A fine route which is usually climbed by its original direct start, the easier (HVS 5b ) left-hand version from the gully is equally worthwhile. Climb the groove to the roof, then traverse left to the finger-crack splitting the nose. Layback up to reach the crest of the buttress above. Finish up this, trending slightly right in a great position. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.

theomoore 10/Oct Lead O/S

original start

with Roisin
xiangoh 19/Sep Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30/Aug Lead
gavinpeach 16/Aug Lead G/U

Superb route. Several attempts at the crux before fully committing to the sequence. It is a brilliant sequence of moves, going from a fierce crimpy traverse into the finger crack. The rest of the route is a quality HVS with nice moves between rounded breaks. 3 star route.

with Hellen
Robin Nichols 09/Aug Lead O/S

Left hand start.

with Roger
RosePearson 27/Jun Lead O/S

Second climb of the day. Cool move across to the finger crack

with Harry Fogg
climberchristy 27/Jun Lead rpt

glad to lead this clean after faffing at the lip in past. a great varied route. tough cruxy start.

with Ben Cole
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 27/May 2nd

Jibbed and came up the hvs on the left after Dan led the E1.

DanChad 27/May Lead dog

Did the E1 5c start. My first E1 lead.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Warburton 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Too hot

with Matthew
Matthew Ferrier 30/Sep/14 2nd
Nick1812P 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
JamieSparkes 06/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Quite happy to second this again after Claire couldn't figure out the first traversing section.

JamieSparkes 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great little route, traverse easy enough if you walk along the footledge an pop for the jutting nose/flake thing, whereas undercutting out looked desperate! one stiff pull to get round the roof above good gear, then some amazing moves up to the mid height ledge and still good after that. A Brilliant pitch!

ashtond6 18/May/14 Lead rpt

incredible route!

James Oswald 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Very nice. I combined the HVS and E1 start in a way that felt quite hard and scary. Pulling over the little roof is great, not too bad when you know how.

with John Bramwell, Kyle Wood
Budge 16/May/14 2nd dog
with Ade
bwestwood 05/May/14 2nd
pie_eater_pete 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead
the power 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Left hand version took me 3 attempts haha

with deacon, chris
simon1965 12/Mar/14 2nd
with James
Stig 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Whoever thinks this is only a ** climb is off their head.

Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd dog
Jonathan Hall 09/Mar/14 Lead

Good route and much easier than expected. Right hand start.

Hidden ?/Mar/14 2nd
climb the peak ??/2014 Lead dog
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
funsized ?/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Fi
mc fifi ?/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Pero 15/Aug/13 TR
Legs 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd
john lynch 07/Jun/13 2nd
with ed luke
Climbster 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 05/Jun/13 2nd β

Did the LH start, want to lead the E1 next time.

davidalcock 04/Jun/13 2nd

From the left. Lovely, interesting route.

with Dom
domskezz 04/Jun/13 Lead

HVS variation, couldn't protect the start to my liking so opted out of tackling it. Great route.

with David
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead
sara n 05/May/13 TR
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
Sam Cooke 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

HVS variant. Great moves.

with Jay Conlon
Jay C 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 TR
Speeddemonsi 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

E1 version from the right, felt pretty steady at the grade.

ashtond6 02/Sep/12 2nd

hard but can be done - to go back and lead

Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd dog
MartinWilliams87 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Gudge ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
SGD 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

HVS version. I lead this after Rob backed off. really good moves. kinda wished on done the harder start. Maybe next time.

David Kay 22/May/12 2nd

Left hand variation.

with Mark Proctor
Graeme Hammond 17/May/12 Lead rpt

led and 2nded the right hand start before so did the easier left hand start this time. HVS 5b*** this way.

with Gavin Singleton
dan gibson 15/May/12 Lead O/S

rh start, difficult

with helen gibson
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd dnf
Hannes B 03/Feb/12 Lead dog
with Sam H
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Matt Cooke 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Rosh
tatz45 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Will Harris
al123 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

"proper" right hand start. great moves and good gear.

Mattyk 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

E1 direct - great once you commit to the flake. Place a cam and launch up the layback.

with John Marsham
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Mike Hegarty 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Went the hard way..One cam under the roof but bomber..! Big move to get to the nose..Plenty off gear in makes a fun climb.

with Dave
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Cake 21/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Oh dear. I did the 5c crux fine, I moved through the layback, I got a load of gear in the break and... my ropes were a total mess. Had to come down. Soo annoying

with Jon
Gustav 21/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Owen
jkarran 19/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Fell from the layback pumped, pulled back on and finished. Lame effort on a nice route.

with Simon
Jim Slater 09/Jun/11 Lead dog

Left-hand HVS, hung on gear to rest.

with Patrick Hogan, Jonathan Keates
max_chan 09/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Steve Carty
mikeyjbs 29/May/11 2nd O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 01/May/11 Lead
AlexRenshaw 01/May/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf
allyrocke 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

From the HVS start, now regret not giving the E1 start a go!

Liam Ingram 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Left hand start. Very nice.

Graeme Hammond 11/Apr/11 2nd rpt

now certain this is better than moyer's buttress

Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
MD 09/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Backed off left hand start

Ollie B 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

5c bit is over pretty quickly then is a romp. Really good climb btu was expecting more of a fight up it.

with M.Court
pmurdy 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

HVS 5b indirect start from the gully on the left.

M_W_Court 02/Apr/11 Lead dog
Sam Ash 02/Apr/11 2nd
disturbed_one51 21/Mar/11 Lead dog

Pumpy! Did the right hand start and then had a massive gear faff on the lip which made me pump out and have to hang on my gear. More stamina needed

Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
GuyM ??/2011 -
Brown ??/2011 Lead
with James T
joese7en 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Dunk-RB 20/Oct/10 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
mark20 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
RalphC 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Ali
bigdrew 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Mark R
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd
drcorbasisgod 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
tedj234 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Kate Campbell
simeclimb68 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead dog
bullwinkle 17/Jul/10 2nd

Direct HVS variant, couldn't figure out how to do the E1.

with Bart
BrettB 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with tomas
mjeffery 05/Jul/10 Lead dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead
Oliver Houston 15/Jun/10 2nd
thomasadixon 15/Jun/10 Lead dog

Got lazy an rested after the crux start.

schaff 05/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Tim
gordonday 13/May/10 Lead rpt
with clive
Brian Rodgers 21/Apr/10 Lead

Did the Left Start. Think i seconded this years ago.

Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd dog
Ketu 28/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Graeme H, Charles M
Graeme Hammond 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S

(right hand 5c start) Thought the move to gain the lip looked impossible till I found the other hold. Didn't bother to hang around to place wires as I would have pumped out just an energy saving cam for the lay-back bit. Good climbing maintained till the top. Excellent and thoroughly worthy of its 3 stars in latest BMC/Rockfax guides and probably better than Moyer's Buttress. Also led right hand start on 07/May/15 with Chris Hindley and 11/May/15 with Neil Colquhoun an Pod

with Charles, Rob
cem 28/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with Graeme Hammond, Rob Truckle
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 -
Different Steve 18/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with Carol Fowles, Steve Gray
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
john lynch 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd
Dave Mason 23/May/09 2nd O/S
with Adam Gill
Martin Haworth 25/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 25/Apr/09 2nd rpt

and Richard White

with Martin Haworth
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
eastley ??/2009 2nd
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead

HVS 5b start, went to far right after the crux.

Hidden 24/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 21/Sep/08 Lead
with Chris Wall
Tim M 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Was surprised to discover that the hardest route in the world is E1!

with Emma
climbergg 25/Aug/08 2nd
Andrew Sloan 10/Aug/08 Lead dog
oi_now 02/Jul/08 2nd
with slim bert
andi turner 02/Mar/08 Lead
with Adam Long
Cragrat Rich 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Nearly lost it getting the lip. Heavy going through crux section

Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
alaan 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Grant
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Gustav ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Neil
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 21/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
Hidden 18/Oct/07 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/07 2nd
Sankey 07/May/07 2nd dog

I was knackered before starting, but this is tough along the traverse, the traditional HVS 5b direct start would have been a better option for me!

with Luke
max_chan 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 08/Apr/07 2nd
with R Smitton
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S

pumpy then easy. good.

with Vash
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 10/Nov/06 Lead dnf
Luke Brooks 20/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/06 Lead
feilx 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Dan Eastley
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 24/Aug/05 2nd dog
cem 10/Apr/05 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/04 TR
bigphil 02/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Toby
Obi-Wan is lost... 02/Jun/04 Lead
with Phil
Hidden 27/Oct/03 2nd
Alastair Hudson 12/Oct/03 Lead
with Clare Young
sadams 28/Sep/03 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
lithos 29/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 23/Mar/03 Lead
Ram MkiV ??/2003 Lead O/S

did the RH approach to flake. got pumped attacking flake.

with Dan Holdsworth
Hidden 23/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/02 Lead
cem 23/Jun/02 Lead O/S

HVS start

Hidden 13/Apr/02 2nd
Different Steve ?/Apr/02 2nd O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead rpt
mikej 14/May/00 TR
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ?/May/00 2nd
antroy 01/Apr/00 Lead
Roget 12/Mar/00 Lead rpt

Right hand start

with jon
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 29/Aug/99 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/99 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/99 2nd
with Bill G
Hidden 16/Aug/98 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 26/Jul/98 Lead

excellent route; good moves at crux and beyond; good length

with Chris ?, Richard Jasicki, Kim Clark
Hidden 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/98 2nd
RobSimmo 22/Oct/97 2nd dog
kato'sdad 22/Oct/97 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/97 Lead O/S
chris sm ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead
Daniel Wrightson 19/Apr/97 Lead O/S

with E1 5c variation start

with Olivia Horner
Hidden ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
martroberts ??/1997 Lead O/S
tlr 12/Apr/96 Lead
with Andy W
BruceW ??/1996 2nd O/S

HVS variant

with Julian
rurp ??/1996 -
Gordon Stainforth 16/Oct/95 2nd

By direct start.

with Richard McHardy, Jeff Douglas
Hidden 14/Aug/95 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 13/Aug/95 Lead

Hardest thing I'd led for years!

with John Cutcliffe, Mick--
Neil R 29/Apr/95 2nd
with Richard W
Bruce Kerr 11/Jul/94 Lead
with Robert Durran
Hidden 03/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/94 2nd
Chris Reid ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/92 Lead
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/91 2nd
Roget 06/May/91 Lead O/S

Left hand start

with colin, baccy
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Lead
with I Smith
goi.ashmore 26/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Joyce
RichardMc 09/Apr/89 2nd
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 07/Feb/89 2nd
Gary Coggon 10/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Bog
Sean Kelly ??/1988 Lead

I am sure this was only HVS at the time.

with Alan Payne
Michael Hood 31/May/87 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 -
sadams 06/Oct/85 Lead
with Aylesbury CC
charlesmfrench 19/Jul/85 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 15/Jun/85 AltLd
KRB 26/May/85 Lead O/S
with Neil Gregory
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Rob Davies ?/Jun/84 2nd

Possible to lean from L and place runner above overlap before doing RH start

Hidden 17/Apr/83 2nd
timbanton ??/1983 -
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
mark-abz 20/Sep/81 2nd
with Pete V
Hidden 23/Aug/80 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/80 TR
Hidden 12/Aug/79 Lead
Mark Kemball 21/Apr/79 Lead
rogerskews ?/Apr/72 -
with Various
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mowglee, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mapperley samurai, Hidden, Hidden, jimzz, Steve Waters, Mynydd, marcduhig, Dean177, AsleepOnBelay, Michael Hood, Dave Mason, andybuckley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Mike H
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 49
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set