Stepping in from the left (so HVS 5b).
Seems a little contrived to add rope drag just to make it a harder climb (but will try it out next time).
slacky - Lead - 06/May/13 with Giulia Forlati, Chris Saunders
sara n - TR - 05/May/13 with CB
Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/13
Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13
Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13
HVS variant. Great moves.
Sam Cooke - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Jay Conlon
Jay C - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Sam Cooke
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - TR - 2013
Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12
Same mistake as last time. Shouldnt have paused at lip to add gear in diagonal
climberchristy - Lead dog - 06/Oct/12 with Ben Cole
E1 version from the right, felt pretty steady at the grade.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12
hard but can be done - to go back and lead
ashtond6 - 2nd - 02/Sep/12
Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/12
MartinWilliams87 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Richard Williams
Gudge - 2nd O/S - Sep/12 with Deacon
HVS version. I lead this after Rob backed off. really good moves. kinda wished on done the harder start. Maybe next time.
SGD - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Rob Gray
Left hand variation.
David Kay - 2nd - 22/May/12 with Mark Proctor
led and 2nded the right hand start before so did the easier left hand start this time. HVS 5b*** this way.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 17/May/12 with Gavin
rh start, difficult
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 15/May/12 with helen gibson
Too hard for me today
Bart Shaw - 2nd dnf - 11/Mar/12 with Jon
Hannes B - Lead dog - 03/Feb/12 with Sam H
Tony Kartawick - 2012
Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Rosh
tatz45 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Will Harris
"proper" right hand start. great moves and good gear.
al123 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11
E1 direct - great once you commit to the flake. Place a cam and launch up the layback.
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with John Marsham
Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11
Hard technical traverse. Pumped out placing gear at the arete and rested on rope. Started again from the gully and did the HVS version clean.
Kafoozalem - Lead - 02/Aug/11 with Sue Hazel
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11
Went the hard way..One cam under the roof but bomber..! Big move to get to the nose..Plenty off gear in makes a fun climb.
Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Dave
wolverine - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount
Oh dear. I did the 5c crux fine, I moved through the layback, I got a load of gear in the break and... my ropes were a total mess. Had to come down. Soo annoying
Cake - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/11 with Jon
Fell from the layback pumped, pulled back on and finished. Lame effort on a nice route.
jkarran - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/11 with Simon
Left-hand HVS, hung on gear to rest.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 09/Jun/11 with Patrick Hogan, Jonathan Keates
max_chan - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/11 with Steve PCC
mikeyjbs - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11 with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Mike Stephenson
Coel Hellier - Lead - 01/May/11
AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Gear in for the crux after DJ pumped out flexing his muscles and fell off. Nice route, but very tough at E1.
madmats - Lead - 25/Apr/11 with PeakDJ
Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/11
From the HVS start, now regret not giving the E1 start a go!
allyrocke - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Liam Ingram
Left hand start. Very nice.
Liam Ingram - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Ally Rocke
now certain this is better than moyer's buttress
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/11 with john Bramwell
loundsy - 2nd β - 09/Apr/11
belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with loundsy
Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/11
5c bit is over pretty quickly then is a romp. Really good climb btu was expecting more of a fight up it.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with M.Court
HVS 5b indirect start from the gully on the left.
pmurdy - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Sam Ashworth
M_W_Court - Lead dog - 02/Apr/11
Pumpy! Did the right hand start and then had a massive gear faff on the lip which made me pump out and have to hang on my gear. More stamina needed
disturbed_one51 - Lead dog - 21/Mar/11 with Rob Middleton
Hidden - Lead - 2011
mwatson - 2011
GuyM - 2011
Brown - Lead - 2011 with James T
joese7en - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10
Dunk-RB - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10
mark20 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10
RalphC - 2nd - 25/Sep/10 with Ali
bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Mark R
Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/10
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10
drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with David Gilling
tedj234 - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Kate Campbell
simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10
Climbed this poorly. Had a cheeky rest on a wire in the layback crack. Massive flash pump placing gear here. Hard and sustained i thought, but maybe that was just the hangover talking. Rain shower half way up helped in that respect.
Bart Shaw - Lead dog - 17/Jul/10 with Tim
Direct HVS variant, couldn't figure out how to do the E1.
bullwinkle - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with Bart
BrettB - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with tomas
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Steve Harby
Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10
Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/10
Oliver Houston - 2nd - 15/Jun/10
Got lazy an rested after the crux start.
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with Ollie Houston
schaff - Lead dog - 05/Jun/10 with Tim
gordonday - Lead rpt - 13/May/10 with clive
Did the Left Start. Think i seconded this years ago.
Brian Rodgers - Lead - 21/Apr/10 with Simon Pape
Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/10
Ketu - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme H, Charles M
(right hand 5c start) Thought the move to gain the lip looked impossible till I found the other hold. Didn't bother to hang around to place wires as I would have pumped out just an energy saving cam for the layback bit. Good climbing maintained till the top. Excellent and thoroughly worthy of its 3 stars in latest bmc/rockfax guides and probably better than Moyer's Buttress.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Charles, Rob
cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme Hammond, Rob Truckle
Seymore Butt - 2010
nickcanute - 2010
Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/09 with Carol Fowles, Steve Gray
Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Oct/09
HVS 5b start.
slacky - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Ben Abell
john lynch - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09
Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/09
Dave Mason - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with Adam Gill
Martin Haworth - Lead dog - 25/Apr/09 with Tony
and Richard White
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 25/Apr/09 with Martin Haworth
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09
eastley - 2nd - 2009
HVS 5b start, went to far right after the crux.
keith leonard - Lead - 2009
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/08
Pete Graham - Lead - 21/Sep/08 with Chris Wall
Was surprised to discover that the hardest route in the world is E1!
Tim M - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Emma
climbergg - 2nd - 25/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie
Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 10/Aug/08 with Martin Haworth
oi_now - 2nd - 02/Jul/08 with slim bert
andi turner - Lead - 02/Mar/08 with Adam Long
Nearly lost it getting the lip. Heavy going through crux section
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08
alaan - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Grant
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08
daveagriff - Lead - 2008
Gustav - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Neil
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 21/Oct/07 with Ed Brown
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/07
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Dave Moir
Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/07
I was knackered before starting, but this is tough along the traverse, the traditional HVS 5b direct start would have been a better option for me!
Sankey - 2nd dog - 07/May/07 with Luke
max_chan - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Chris
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07
MONKEY78 - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with R Smitton
Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07
pumpy then easy. good.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/07 with Vash
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07
Rob Kennard - 2007
Tried the E1 5c start... down-climbed and tried the left hand traverse instead... down-climbed and had a little strop! One for a warmer day I think.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead dnf - 10/Nov/06 with Fiend
Luke Brooks - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/06 with Rob Grant
Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/06
feilx - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Dan Eastley
Hidden - 2nd - Jun/06
Boy - 2006
Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/05
cem - Lead dog - 10/Apr/05 with Graham Dolman
north country boy - Lead O/S - Dec/04 with laura Evans, Ben Ward
JohnHutch - TR - 11/Oct/04 with L
bigphil - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/04 with Toby
Obi-Wan is lost... - Lead - 02/Jun/04 with Phil
Hidden - 2nd - 27/Oct/03
sadams - 2nd - 28/Sep/03 with Eric Hildrew
lithos - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/03 with Andy Birtwistle
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/03
Ropeboy - Lead - 23/Mar/03
did the RH approach to flake. got pumped attacking flake.
Belier - Lead O/S - 2003 with Dan Holdsworth
Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/02
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/02
Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/02
HVS start
cem - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/02 with Graham Dolman
Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/02
Different Steve - 2nd O/S - Apr/02 with Rupert Holbrook
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2002
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - Aug/01
Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - May/00
antroy - Lead - 01/Apr/00
Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/00
Marti999 - Lead - 2000
marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Ben
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/99
Chris the Tall - 2nd - Jun/99 with Bill G
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/98
Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/98
RobSimmo - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/97 with Jon Berry
kato'sdad - Lead - 22/Oct/97 with Rob Simpson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/97
chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Dom Goodridge
ChrisJD - Lead - Jun/97 with TimSp
with E1 5c variation start
Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/97 with Olivia Horner
Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/97
martroberts - Lead O/S - 1997
tlr - Lead - 12/Apr/96 with Andy W
HVS variant
BruceW - 2nd O/S - 1996 with Julian
By direct start.
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 16/Oct/95 with Richard McHardy, Jeff Douglas
Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/95
Hardest thing I'd led for years!
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 13/Aug/95 with John Cutcliffe, Mick--
Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/94
Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/94
Hidden - Lead - 02/May/92
WB - Lead O/S - 1992
Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/91
NickJH - Lead - Jul/90 with I Smith
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/90 with Andy Joyce
Hidden - 2nd - 07/Feb/89
I am sure this was only HVS at the time.
Sean Kelly - Lead - 1988 with Alan Payne
Michael Hood - Lead - 31/May/87
Hidden - Lead - 27/Apr/86
Hidden - 1986
sadams - Lead - 06/Oct/85 with Aylesbury CC
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/85
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 15/Jun/85 with Andy Wild
andy gittins - 1985
Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/83
Hidden - 1983
Hidden - Lead - 1982
mark-abz - 2nd - 20/Sep/81 with Pete V
Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/80
Hidden - TR - 18/Apr/80
Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/79
Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Apr/79
rogerskews - Apr/72 with Various