The Eye of Faith*** E1 5c
25m. A fine route which is usually climbed by its original direct start, though the easier (HVS 5b) left-hand version from the gully is equally worthwhile. Climb the groove to the roof, then traverse left to the finger crack splitting the nose. Whip in a couple of wires then, before your arms pump out, layback up to reach the crest of the buttress above. Finish up this trending slightly right in a great position. © ROCKFAX
FA. Peter Biven 1956

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 233 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Too hot
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/14 with Matthew

Matthew Ferrier - 2nd - 30/Sep/14 with Dave Warburton

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/14

Quite happy to second this again after Claire couldn't figure out the first traversing section.
JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 06/Aug/14 with Claire Holland

Great little route, traverse easy enough if you walk along the footledge an pop for the jutting nose/flake thing, whereas undercutting out looked desperate! one stiff pull to get round the roof above good gear, then some amazing moves up to the mid height ledge and still good after that. A Brilliant pitch!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Claire Holland

incredible route!
ashtond6 - Lead rpt - 18/May/14

Very nice. I combined the HVS and E1 start in a way that felt quite hard and scary. Pulling over the little roof is great, not too bad when you know how.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with John Bramwell, Kyle Wood

Budge - 2nd dog - 16/May/14 with Ade

bwestwood - 2nd - 05/May/14

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/14

Left hand version took me 3 attempts haha
the power - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/14 with deacon, chris

simon1965 - 2nd - 12/Mar/14 with James

Whoever thinks this is only a ** climb is off their head.
Stig - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/14 with Simon1965

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Mar/14

Good route and much easier than expected. Right hand start.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 09/Mar/14 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/14

climb the peak - Lead dog - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

IanGilbertJones - 2014

funsized - Lead O/S - Nov/13 with Fi

mc fifi - 2nd O/S - Nov/13 with Jonathan Pearson

Legs - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/13

john lynch - 2nd - 07/Jun/13 with ed luke

Climbster - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Ian

Did the LH start, want to lead the E1 next time.
Bloke on a Rope - 2nd β - 05/Jun/13

From the left. Lovely, interesting route.
davidalcock - 2nd - 04/Jun/13 with Dom

HVS variation, couldn't protect the start to my liking so opted out of tackling it. Great route.
domskezz - Lead - 04/Jun/13 with David

Stepping in from the left (so HVS 5b). Seems a little contrived to add rope drag just to make it a harder climb (but will try it out next time).
slacky - Lead - 06/May/13 with Giulia Forlati, Chris Saunders

sara n - TR - 05/May/13 with Carl Bauer

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

HVS variant. Great moves.
Sam Cooke - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Jay Conlon

Jay C - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Sam Cooke

Hidden - TR - 2013

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Same mistake as last time. Shouldnt have paused at lip to add gear in diagonal
climberchristy - Lead dog - 06/Oct/12 with Ben Cole

E1 version from the right, felt pretty steady at the grade.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

hard but can be done - to go back and lead
ashtond6 - 2nd - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/12

MartinWilliams87 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Richard Williams

Gudge - 2nd O/S - Sep/12 with Andrew Deacon

HVS version. I lead this after Rob backed off. really good moves. kinda wished on done the harder start. Maybe next time.
SGD - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Rob Gray

Left hand variation.
David Kay - 2nd - 22/May/12 with Mark Proctor

led and 2nded the right hand start before so did the easier left hand start this time. HVS 5b*** this way.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 17/May/12 with Gavin Singleton

rh start, difficult
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 15/May/12 with helen gibson

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Mar/12

Hannes B - Lead dog - 03/Feb/12 with Sam H

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Rosh

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Will Harris

"proper" right hand start. great moves and good gear.
al123 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

E1 direct - great once you commit to the flake. Place a cam and launch up the layback.
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with John Marsham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Went the hard way..One cam under the roof but bomber..! Big move to get to the nose..Plenty off gear in makes a fun climb.
Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Dave

wolverine - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount

Oh dear. I did the 5c crux fine, I moved through the layback, I got a load of gear in the break and... my ropes were a total mess. Had to come down. Soo annoying
Cake - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/11 with Jon

Fell from the layback pumped, pulled back on and finished. Lame effort on a nice route.
jkarran - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/11 with Simon

Left-hand HVS, hung on gear to rest.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 09/Jun/11 with Patrick, Jonathan Keates

max_chan - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/11 with Steve Carty

mikeyjbs - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

riddle - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Mike Stephenson

Coel Hellier - Lead - 01/May/11

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/11

From the HVS start, now regret not giving the E1 start a go!
allyrocke - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Liam Ingram

Left hand start. Very nice.
Liam Ingram - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Ally Rocke

now certain this is better than moyer's buttress
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/11 with john Bramwell

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Apr/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with loundsy

Backed off left hand start
MD - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/11

5c bit is over pretty quickly then is a romp. Really good climb btu was expecting more of a fight up it.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with M.Court

HVS 5b indirect start from the gully on the left.
pmurdy - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Sam Ashworth

M_W_Court - Lead dog - 02/Apr/11

Pumpy! Did the right hand start and then had a massive gear faff on the lip which made me pump out and have to hang on my gear. More stamina needed
disturbed_one51 - Lead dog - 21/Mar/11 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - Lead - 2011

mwatson - 2011

GuyM - 2011

Brown - Lead - 2011 with James T

joese7en - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10

Dunk-RB - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10

mark20 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

RalphC - 2nd - 25/Sep/10 with Ali

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Mark R

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with David Gilling

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Kate Campbell

simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Jul/10

Direct HVS variant, couldn't figure out how to do the E1.
bullwinkle - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with Bart

BrettB - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with tomas

mjeffery - Lead dog - 05/Jul/10

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/10

Oliver Houston - 2nd - 15/Jun/10

Got lazy an rested after the crux start.
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with Ollie Houston

schaff - Lead dog - 05/Jun/10 with Tim

gordonday - Lead rpt - 13/May/10 with clive

Did the Left Start. Think i seconded this years ago.
Brian Rodgers - Lead - 21/Apr/10 with Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/10

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme H, Charles M

(right hand 5c start) Thought the move to gain the lip looked impossible till I found the other hold. Didn't bother to hang around to place wires as I would have pumped out just an energy saving cam for the layback bit. Good climbing maintained till the top. Excellent and thoroughly worthy of its 3 stars in latest bmc/rockfax guides and probably better than Moyer's Buttress.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Charles, Rob

cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme Hammond, Rob Truckle

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - 2010

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/09 with Carol Fowles, Steve Gray

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Oct/09

HVS 5b start.
slacky - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Ben Abell

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/09

Dave Mason - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with Adam Gill

Martin Haworth - Lead dog - 25/Apr/09 with Tony

and Richard White
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 25/Apr/09 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09

eastley - 2nd - 2009

HVS 5b start, went to far right after the crux.
keith leonard - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/08

Pete Graham - Lead - 21/Sep/08 with Chris Wall

Was surprised to discover that the hardest route in the world is E1!
Tim M - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 25/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 10/Aug/08 with Martin Haworth

oi_now - 2nd - 02/Jul/08 with slim bert

andi turner - Lead - 02/Mar/08 with Adam Long

Nearly lost it getting the lip. Heavy going through crux section
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

alaan - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Grant

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Neil

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 21/Oct/07 with Ed Brown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/07

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Dave Moir

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/07

I was knackered before starting, but this is tough along the traverse, the traditional HVS 5b direct start would have been a better option for me!
Sankey - 2nd dog - 07/May/07 with Luke

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

MONKEY78 - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with R Smitton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

pumpy then easy. good.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/07 with Vash

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Nov/06

Luke Brooks - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/06 with Rob Grant

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/06

feilx - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Dan Eastley

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/05

cem - Lead dog - 10/Apr/05 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/04

JohnHutch - TR - 11/Oct/04 with L

bigphil - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/04 with Toby

Obi-Wan is lost... - Lead - 02/Jun/04 with Phil

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Oct/03

sadams - 2nd - 28/Sep/03 with Eric Hildrew

lithos - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/03 with Andy Birtwistle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/03

Ropeboy - Lead - 23/Mar/03

did the RH approach to flake. got pumped attacking flake.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 2003 with Dan Holdsworth

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/02

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/02

HVS start
cem - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/02 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/02

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - Apr/02 with Rupert Holbrook

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/01

mikej - TR - 14/May/00 with Nick Salmon

Hidden - 2nd - May/00

antroy - Lead - 01/Apr/00

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/99

Chris the Tall - 2nd - Jun/99 with Bill G

excellent route; good moves at crux and beyond; good length
nickdonohue - Lead - 26/Jul/98 with Chris ?, Richard Jasicki, Kim Clark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/98

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/98

RobSimmo - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/97 with Jon Berry

kato'sdad - Lead - 22/Oct/97 with Rob Simpson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/97

chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Dom Goodridge

ChrisJD - Lead - Jun/97 with TimSp

with E1 5c variation start
Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/97 with Olivia Horner

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/97

martroberts - Lead O/S - 1997

tlr - Lead - 12/Apr/96 with Andy W

HVS variant
BruceW - 2nd O/S - 1996 with Julian

rurp - 1996

By direct start.
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 16/Oct/95 with Richard McHardy, Jeff Douglas

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/95

Hardest thing I'd led for years!
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 13/Aug/95 with John Cutcliffe, Mick--

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 11/Jul/94 with Robert Durran

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/94

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/94

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - Jun/93

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/92

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/91

NickJH - Lead - Jul/90 with I Smith

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/90 with Andy Joyce

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Feb/89

Gary Coggon - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/88 with Bog

I am sure this was only HVS at the time.
Sean Kelly - Lead - 1988 with Alan Payne

Michael Hood - Lead - 31/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 27/Apr/86

Hidden - 1986

sadams - Lead - 06/Oct/85 with Aylesbury CC

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/85

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 15/Jun/85 with Andy Wild

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/83

Hidden - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1982

mark-abz - 2nd - 20/Sep/81 with Pete V

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/80

Hidden - TR - 18/Apr/80

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/79

Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Apr/79

rogerskews - Apr/72 with Various

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, gavinpeach, jimzz, Steve Waters, Mynydd, marcduhig, Dean177, jeffsheard, Michael Hood, Dave Mason, andybuckley, Mike H

Voting
Total votes cast 133
hard E20 of 46
E20 of 46
easy E24 of 46
hard E114 of 46
E122 of 46
easy E13 of 46
hard HVS2 of 46
HVS1 of 46
easy HVS0 of 46
hard 6a0 of 42
6a0 of 42
easy 6a0 of 42
hard 5c13 of 42
5c14 of 42
easy 5c8 of 42
hard 5b5 of 42
5b2 of 42
easy 5b0 of 42
3 Stars38 of 45
2 Stars7 of 45
1 Star0 of 45
0 Stars0 of 45
Bag of .....0 of 45
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Style of ascent

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dnf