Derbyshire > Gardoms Edge >
 
Eye of Faith** E1 5c

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[Jus enjoing Eye of Faith before the downpour!, 3 kb]20m. A fine route which is usually climbed by its original direct start, though the easier (HVS 5b) left-hand version from the gully is equally worthwhile. Climb the groove to the roof, then traverse left to the finger crack splitting the nose. Whip in a couple of wires then, before your arms pump out, layback up to reach the crest of the buttress above. Finish up this trending slightly right in a great position. © ROCKFAX
FA. Peter Biven 1956

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List.

Photo: Jus enjoing Eye of Faith before the downpour! © Simon
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 194 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Stepping in from the left (so HVS 5b). Seems a little contrived to add rope drag just to make it a harder climb (but will try it out next time).
slacky - Lead - 06/May/13 with Giulia Forlati, Chris Saunders

sara n - TR - 05/May/13 with CB

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

HVS variant. Great moves.
Sam Cooke - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Jay Conlon

Jay C - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Sam Cooke

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - TR - 2013

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Same mistake as last time. Shouldnt have paused at lip to add gear in diagonal
climberchristy - Lead dog - 06/Oct/12 with Ben Cole

E1 version from the right, felt pretty steady at the grade.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

hard but can be done - to go back and lead
ashtond6 - 2nd - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/12

MartinWilliams87 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Richard Williams

Gudge - 2nd O/S - Sep/12 with Deacon

HVS version. I lead this after Rob backed off. really good moves. kinda wished on done the harder start. Maybe next time.
SGD - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Rob Gray

Left hand variation.
David Kay - 2nd - 22/May/12 with Mark Proctor

led and 2nded the right hand start before so did the easier left hand start this time. HVS 5b*** this way.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 17/May/12 with Gavin

rh start, difficult
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 15/May/12 with helen gibson

Too hard for me today
Bart Shaw - 2nd dnf - 11/Mar/12 with Jon

Hannes B - Lead dog - 03/Feb/12 with Sam H

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Rosh

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Will Harris

"proper" right hand start. great moves and good gear.
al123 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

E1 direct - great once you commit to the flake. Place a cam and launch up the layback.
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with John Marsham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

Hard technical traverse. Pumped out placing gear at the arete and rested on rope. Started again from the gully and did the HVS version clean.
Kafoozalem - Lead - 02/Aug/11 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Went the hard way..One cam under the roof but bomber..! Big move to get to the nose..Plenty off gear in makes a fun climb.
Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Dave

wolverine - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount

Oh dear. I did the 5c crux fine, I moved through the layback, I got a load of gear in the break and... my ropes were a total mess. Had to come down. Soo annoying
Cake - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/11 with Jon

Fell from the layback pumped, pulled back on and finished. Lame effort on a nice route.
jkarran - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/11 with Simon

Left-hand HVS, hung on gear to rest.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 09/Jun/11 with Patrick Hogan, Jonathan Keates

max_chan - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/11 with Steve PCC

mikeyjbs - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

riddle - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Mike Stephenson

Coel Hellier - Lead - 01/May/11

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Gear in for the crux after DJ pumped out flexing his muscles and fell off. Nice route, but very tough at E1.
madmats - Lead - 25/Apr/11 with PeakDJ

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/11

From the HVS start, now regret not giving the E1 start a go!
allyrocke - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Liam Ingram

Left hand start. Very nice.
Liam Ingram - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Ally Rocke

now certain this is better than moyer's buttress
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/11 with john Bramwell

loundsy - 2nd β - 09/Apr/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/11

5c bit is over pretty quickly then is a romp. Really good climb btu was expecting more of a fight up it.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with M.Court

HVS 5b indirect start from the gully on the left.
pmurdy - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Sam Ashworth

M_W_Court - Lead dog - 02/Apr/11

Pumpy! Did the right hand start and then had a massive gear faff on the lip which made me pump out and have to hang on my gear. More stamina needed
disturbed_one51 - Lead dog - 21/Mar/11 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - Lead - 2011

mwatson - 2011

GuyM - 2011

Brown - Lead - 2011 with James T

joese7en - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10

Dunk-RB - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10

mark20 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

RalphC - 2nd - 25/Sep/10 with Ali

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Mark R

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with David Gilling

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Kate Campbell

simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10

Climbed this poorly. Had a cheeky rest on a wire in the layback crack. Massive flash pump placing gear here. Hard and sustained i thought, but maybe that was just the hangover talking. Rain shower half way up helped in that respect.
Bart Shaw - Lead dog - 17/Jul/10 with Tim

Direct HVS variant, couldn't figure out how to do the E1.
bullwinkle - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with Bart

BrettB - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with tomas

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/10

Oliver Houston - 2nd - 15/Jun/10

Got lazy an rested after the crux start.
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with Ollie Houston

schaff - Lead dog - 05/Jun/10 with Tim

gordonday - Lead rpt - 13/May/10 with clive

Did the Left Start. Think i seconded this years ago.
Brian Rodgers - Lead - 21/Apr/10 with Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/10

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme H, Charles M

(right hand 5c start) Thought the move to gain the lip looked impossible till I found the other hold. Didn't bother to hang around to place wires as I would have pumped out just an energy saving cam for the layback bit. Good climbing maintained till the top. Excellent and thoroughly worthy of its 3 stars in latest bmc/rockfax guides and probably better than Moyer's Buttress.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Charles, Rob

cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme Hammond, Rob Truckle

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - 2010

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/09 with Carol Fowles, Steve Gray

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Oct/09

HVS 5b start.
slacky - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Ben Abell

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/09

Dave Mason - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with Adam Gill

Martin Haworth - Lead dog - 25/Apr/09 with Tony

and Richard White
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 25/Apr/09 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09

eastley - 2nd - 2009

HVS 5b start, went to far right after the crux.
keith leonard - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/08

Pete Graham - Lead - 21/Sep/08 with Chris Wall

Was surprised to discover that the hardest route in the world is E1!
Tim M - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 25/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 10/Aug/08 with Martin Haworth

oi_now - 2nd - 02/Jul/08 with slim bert

andi turner - Lead - 02/Mar/08 with Adam Long

Nearly lost it getting the lip. Heavy going through crux section
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

alaan - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Grant

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Neil

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 21/Oct/07 with Ed Brown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/07

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Dave Moir

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/07

I was knackered before starting, but this is tough along the traverse, the traditional HVS 5b direct start would have been a better option for me!
Sankey - 2nd dog - 07/May/07 with Luke

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

MONKEY78 - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with R Smitton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

pumpy then easy. good.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/07 with Vash

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Tried the E1 5c start... down-climbed and tried the left hand traverse instead... down-climbed and had a little strop! One for a warmer day I think.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead dnf - 10/Nov/06 with Fiend

Luke Brooks - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/06 with Rob Grant

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/06

feilx - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Dan Eastley

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/05

cem - Lead dog - 10/Apr/05 with Graham Dolman

north country boy - Lead O/S - Dec/04 with laura Evans, Ben Ward

JohnHutch - TR - 11/Oct/04 with L

bigphil - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/04 with Toby

Obi-Wan is lost... - Lead - 02/Jun/04 with Phil

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Oct/03

sadams - 2nd - 28/Sep/03 with Eric Hildrew

lithos - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/03 with Andy Birtwistle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/03

Ropeboy - Lead - 23/Mar/03

did the RH approach to flake. got pumped attacking flake.
Belier - Lead O/S - 2003 with Dan Holdsworth

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/02

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/02

HVS start
cem - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/02 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/02

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - Apr/02 with Rupert Holbrook

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2002

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - Aug/01

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - May/00

antroy - Lead - 01/Apr/00

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/99

Chris the Tall - 2nd - Jun/99 with Bill G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/98

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/98

RobSimmo - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/97 with Jon Berry

kato'sdad - Lead - 22/Oct/97 with Rob Simpson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/97

chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Dom Goodridge

ChrisJD - Lead - Jun/97 with TimSp

with E1 5c variation start
Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/97 with Olivia Horner

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/97

martroberts - Lead O/S - 1997

tlr - Lead - 12/Apr/96 with Andy W

HVS variant
BruceW - 2nd O/S - 1996 with Julian

By direct start.
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 16/Oct/95 with Richard McHardy, Jeff Douglas

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/95

Hardest thing I'd led for years!
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 13/Aug/95 with John Cutcliffe, Mick--

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/94

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/94

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/92

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/91

NickJH - Lead - Jul/90 with I Smith

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/90 with Andy Joyce

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Feb/89

I am sure this was only HVS at the time.
Sean Kelly - Lead - 1988 with Alan Payne

Michael Hood - Lead - 31/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 27/Apr/86

Hidden - 1986

sadams - Lead - 06/Oct/85 with Aylesbury CC

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/85

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 15/Jun/85 with Andy Wild

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/83

Hidden - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1982

mark-abz - 2nd - 20/Sep/81 with Pete V

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/80

Hidden - TR - 18/Apr/80

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/79

Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Apr/79

rogerskews - Apr/72 with Various

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jimzz, Steve Waters, Mynydd, marcduhig, Dean177, jeffsheard, Michael Hood, Dave Mason, Hidden, andybuckley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Mike H

Voting
Total votes cast 110
hard E20 of 38
E20 of 38
easy E24 of 38
hard E111 of 38
E118 of 38
easy E13 of 38
hard HVS2 of 38
HVS0 of 38
easy HVS0 of 38
hard 6a0 of 34
6a0 of 34
easy 6a0 of 34
hard 5c11 of 34
5c11 of 34
easy 5c7 of 34
hard 5b5 of 34
5b0 of 34
easy 5b0 of 34
3 Stars33 of 38
2 Stars5 of 38
1 Star0 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Lead112 of 194 (57.7%)
Followed65 of 194 (33.5%)
Toproped4 of 194 (2.1%)
Alt Leads1 of 194 (0.5%)
Unknown12 of 194 (6.2%)

'Climbed'83 of 194 (42.8%)
clean O/S76 of 194 (39.2%)
clean β1 of 194 (0.5%)
clean rpt9 of 194 (4.6%)
dogged19 of 194 (9.8%)
dnf6 of 194 (3.1%)