The imposing corner-crack can be laybacked or thrutched, although hidden holds (and big cams) help. At the top, exit right up the wall. Hard work and high in the grade. The wall under the slanting groove up and left gives an extension at E2 5c. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1950
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Phil Layton||25/Jul||Lead dnf||
Too fat and not strong enough. Fell off after left foot skidded off lichen trying to get past the beginning layback crack. Almost made it.
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||27/May||Lead||
Great route. Got a friend 4 then a friend 2.5 in the back of the wide crack so decided to go for it. Finished up the steep wall 1/2 way along the ledge, which provided an exciting finish when I carelessly kicked out the no. 2 nut moving up.
As my friend Toby said, 'beefy' moves. Keep the eyes at the back of your head open. Both cruxy laybacks can be helped with bridgy drop-knees using nice ledges.
|Sam McCarthy||10/Mar||Lead O/S|
Contemplated finishing up the wall but in the end decided against it and scrambled off to the right via Stepped Crack (Diff)
Very green, made for some nervous smearing
|Jules Lane||01/Jul/14||2nd dog||
Foot slipped off the start. Twice ! Not 4c.
|Mr. K||17/May/14||Lead O/S|
fell before the break, foot slipped on the green. Lead clean after.
beta being someone else's gear
|Martin Bagshaw||04/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Jamie Vince, Richard Apthorp
Joe Brown route, says it all really.
Slipped on the slime but made it in the end, No sign of them hidden holds. Good Lead from the Gas Man.
|john lynch||26/Feb/12||2nd O/S||
Finished up the steep wall, not the Diff.
Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave
|Andrew Sloan||15/Jul/11||2nd O/S||
A sandbag at VS. Steve took a total of 3 falls, including a 10 footer. He did well to get up it.
Quite tough exiting the groove
|Steven Andrews||15/May/11||Lead O/S||
Ben, Rachel Berkowitz
Done as two pitches, I led both. Decided against the E1 variation. Not too green.
Rose Tupling and Sebastian Schwabl
|Harry Holmes||23/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
high before getting in first piece of gear. gymnastic climb, very good! shame you have to finish on a vdiff
nice, hard for vs but nice climbing. finished direct up steep jugs above the ledge
Nails. Even the unusually warm day didn't justify the sweat poring from my brow, that damped the t-shirt on my back, and, more crucially, greased the skin of my fingers and palms. Trying to move from the midway respite, the idea I'd bitten off more than I could chew was difficult to ignore. Finally summoning the courage to advance, kicking loose my no 11 offset in inadvertent homage to Brown, the feint of boldness paid off, strong pulls on the corner crack and smears against the smooth lichen covered wall, purchased a grasp on the final set of horizontal cracks, an almost half decent smear for the right foot. Well above the last runner now, more desperate pulls, a foot on the ledge on the right, then panting hard, refuge is found at last. Dripping, between gasps, Kris learns of my relief. Nails.
|John Pickles||25/May/10||Lead O/S||
john and chris
Quite exciting! Couldnt protect bottom section but got a smaller cam up in the crack which gave me confidence but fell out just as I reached the rest. The wall was green and rubbish for smearing. Think this could be my 3rd and a half Joe Brown route (only did bottom half of Valkyrie Direct)
|Laurence Everitt||14/Mar/10||Lead O/S|
Absolutely brilliant, and well tough for VS.
|Jimbo C||28/May/09||Lead O/S||
Very enjoyable and hard work.
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||21/Apr/09||Lead|
Steve Waters, Mynydd
|Graeme Hammond||18/Apr/09||Lead O/S|
An excellent route, big cam useful for first moves. final wall is fun too
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||26/Apr/08||Lead O/S|
duz n sean
Never mind Layback Crack, this is how laybacking should feel!
can't remomber why I marked this as TR
David & Martin
Reuben Brown, Clare Dunkley and Gemma Heaton
|Rich Malcolm||21/May/00||2nd O/S||
Chris ?, Richard Jasicki, Kim Clark
Mick --, John Cutcliffe, Katrina
|Pete Pozman||?/Aug/88||Lead O/S||
|J R R Hartley||?/May/87||Lead O/S||
Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby
Steve Radford, Nigel Sumner