Derbyshire > Gardoms Edge >
 
Gardoms Unconquerable** VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Stepped Crack
 
Whillans' Blind Variant >>
[sunny day off, 3 kb]14m. The imposing corner-crack can be laybacked, although hidden holds ease the tension. At the top exit right up the wall. Hard work and quite high in the grade. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1950

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans.

Photo: sunny day off © the power
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 153 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Julian L

Foot slipped off the start. Twice ! Not 4c.
Julian Lane - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/14 with Mynydd James

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Chris Mullaney

ClareSenny - 2nd dog - 05/May/14 with Andrew Edwards

GLO - Lead β - 04/May/14 with Keith P

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14

fell before the break, foot slipped on the green. Lead clean after.
Lazytraveller - Lead RP - 13/Apr/14 with Mike cheque, Chloe Mead, Cherrelle, Tom Luff

AshBash - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/14 with Mike

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Apr/14

beta being someone else's gear
hipyhop - Lead β - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/14

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 09/Mar/14 with Rob Middleton

beneole - Lead O/S - Dec/13

Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Jamie Vince, Richard Apthorp

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13 with John_PCC

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/13

john_ni - 2nd - 11/Jun/13 with Richard Williams (PCC)

DeanD - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/13

jimbonfire - 26/May/13

Col Kingshott - 2nd - 26/May/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/13 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 16/Apr/13 with Marti999

Joe Brown route, says it all really.
dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/13 with deacon, Phil Taylor

gavinpeach - 2nd dog - 02/Mar/13 with Max Pendleton

found the start tough on this one.
kwaidy - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with sting

Slipped on the slime but made it in the end, No sign of them hidden holds. Good Lead from the Gas Man.
sting - TR dog - 23/Feb/13 with kwaidy

Gudge - Lead O/S - Sep/12 with Andrew Deacon

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - Sep/12

TimKnight - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Richard Howard

Fragmod - 2nd - 23/May/12

Morwood - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

HB1 - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with KB

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/12

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Neil Elmore

PAJames - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Oct/11

Finished up the steep wall, not the Diff.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11

A sandbag at VS. Steve took a total of 3 falls, including a 10 footer. He did well to get up it.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Steve Grove

Quite tough exiting the groove
jkarran - Lead - 19/Jun/11 with Simon

Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Ben, Rachel Berkowitz

geddicakes - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with James Restorick

Done as two pitches, I led both. Decided against the E1 variation. Not too green.
Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Rose Tupling and Sebastian Schwabl

Harry Holmes - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Clement

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Slimy¬!
shafiq lalloo - 15/Apr/11 with szelest

lozowen - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/11

slacky - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Ben

cem - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Jan/11

GuyM - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/10

madasten - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with Rich

high before getting in first piece of gear. gymnastic climb, very good! shame you have to finish on a vdiff
payeo20 - Lead - 29/Aug/10

simeclimb68 - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/10

Tala M - 2nd - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/10

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Jamie

nice, hard for vs but nice climbing. finished direct up steep jugs above the ledge
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Nick, Claire

squidgebob - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Nick, jamie

Nails. Even the unusually warm day didn't justify the sweat poring from my brow, that damped the t-shirt on my back, and, more crucially, greased the skin of my fingers and palms. Trying to move from the midway respite, the idea I'd bitten off more than I could chew was difficult to ignore. Finally summoning the courage to advance, kicking loose my no 11 offset in inadvertent homage to Brown, the feint of boldness paid off, strong pulls on the corner crack and smears against the smooth lichen covered wall, purchased a grasp on the final set of horizontal cracks, an almost half decent smear for the right foot. Well above the last runner now, more desperate pulls, a foot on the ledge on the right, then panting hard, refuge is found at last. Dripping, between gasps, Kris learns of my relief. Nails.
Ander - Lead - 04/Jun/10 with World Class 'Articulate' player

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 22/May/10

petegruf - Lead - 22/May/10 with brad j

colkurtz - 2nd - 22/May/10 with Robb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

Budge - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with Graham Collins

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 04/May/10 with john and chris

Quite exciting! Couldnt protect bottom section but got a smaller cam up in the crack which gave me confidence but fell out just as I reached the rest. The wall was green and rubbish for smearing. Think this could be my 3rd and a half Joe Brown route (only did bottom half of Valkyrie Direct)
manwithacam - Lead - 02/May/10 with Sarah

pabbage - 17/Apr/10

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with neil mackie

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Mar/10

nickcanute - 2010

lithos - 2nd - 04/Oct/09 with paul cookson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09

Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 16/Sep/09

Absolutely brilliant, and well tough for VS.
catt - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Steve M

Very enjoyable and hard work.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 28/May/09 with Gethin

Guy - 2nd - May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09

davidwright - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Sam

Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 21/Apr/09 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Andy Winter

tommytwotone - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Nigel

tskelhon - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with ollie keeler

Another James - 2nd - 10/Aug/08 with Jamie T

An excellent route, big cam useful for first moves. final wall is fun too
Pilch - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Graham

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Jon Box

Hidden - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with Jon_nz

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Oct/07

rayash - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with fenclimb

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/07

jonka - Lead - Aug/07 with duz n sean

Never mind Layback Crack, this is how laybacking should feel!
kitkat78 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Alastair H

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/07

Adam Moroz - Lead - 2007

can't remomber why I marked this as TR
baldcoder - TR - 19/Sep/06

BazVee - 2nd - 12/Aug/06 with David & Martin

John Lisle - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Nicos - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/05 with danny carden

mikej - 2nd - 27/May/05 with Rick Naylor

samwelli - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Reuben Brown, Clare Dunkley and Gemma Heaton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/04

bigphil - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/04 with Nick

Ropeboy - Solo - 21/Sep/03

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 13/Jul/03 with Nige Shaw

lithos - Lead - 29/Jun/03 with Andy Birtwistle

Hidden - Solo rpt - 20/Apr/02

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead - Sep/00

Rich Malcolm - 2nd O/S - 21/May/00 with Matt Brennan

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

nickdonohue - Lead - 26/Jul/98 with Chris ?, Richard Jasicki, Kim Clark

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/May/98

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Feb/98

Budge - Lead O/S - Aug/97 with Adrian Fox

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/95

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 13/Aug/95 with Mick --, John Cutcliffe, Katrina

colin milton - Lead - 04/May/95 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/94

Laramadness - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/93

Roget - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/92

Andy Say - Solo - 01/Jun/91

Laramadness - 2nd β - 10/Apr/91

Tony Buckley - Jun/90 with Robert Clark

Pete Pozman - Lead O/S - Aug/88 with John Byrne

Hammy - Lead - 10/Jun/88 with Colin Struthers

babymoac - Lead - 29/May/88 with MTW

J R R Hartley - Lead O/S - May/87 with Dez Barnett

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/87

shark - 2nd O/S - 11/May/84 with Phill Dickens

mark-abz - TR - 15/Aug/83

Nigel Bond - Lead - 02/Jul/79 with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby

Hidden - Lead - 29/Oct/77

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/77

RichardMc - Lead - 06/Jul/75 with Ken Salter

Dave Musgrove - 05/May/68 with Dennis Gray

mikej - Lead - 04/Mar/67 with Steve Radford, Nigel Sumner

mikej - 2nd - 09/Oct/66 with Keith Gregson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WhipperSnapper, RobScarisbrick, Hidden, Hidden, papalazarou, Hidden, gavinpeach, mapperley samurai, David Carpenter, Hidden, Hidden, jeffsheard, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 150
hard HVS0 of 54
HVS0 of 54
easy HVS9 of 54
hard VS28 of 54
VS17 of 54
easy VS0 of 54
hard HS0 of 54
HS0 of 54
easy HS0 of 54
hard 5a0 of 50
5a1 of 50
easy 5a7 of 50
hard 4c22 of 50
4c20 of 50
easy 4c0 of 50
hard 4b0 of 50
4b0 of 50
easy 4b0 of 50
3 Stars8 of 46
2 Stars32 of 46
1 Star4 of 46
0 Stars2 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 153 (3.3%)
Lead77 of 153 (50.3%)
Followed57 of 153 (37.3%)
Toproped3 of 153 (2.0%)
Unknown11 of 153 (7.2%)

'Climbed'69 of 153 (45.1%)
clean O/S67 of 153 (43.8%)
clean β3 of 153 (2.0%)
clean rpt3 of 153 (2.0%)
clean RP2 of 153 (1.3%)
dogged6 of 153 (3.9%)
dnf3 of 153 (2.0%)