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El Mancho*** VI 7

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El Mancho Right Hand Finish >>
[In perfect nick on this ascent., 1 kb]110m, 3 pitches. A classic mixed route. A slightly bold first pitch followed by a steep and out there second pitch which requires an awkward maneuver for most.
Leigh McGinley / Simon Panton 2001

Photo: In perfect nick on this ascent. © Mark Handford
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Late start due to going over from Birmingham in the morning, so left Ogwen Cottage at 10am. Took the wrong path up and ended up slogging up deep, steep snow following a poor and very indirect track. The last bit to get up to the crag was also a nightmare. Hence started the route around 3pm! Good lead from Phil on P2, I thought it was quite tricky. I actually managed to get to just below the crawling ledge on P3 before I had to switch on the headtorch. Have never climbed by torchlight before, turned out to be quite good fun! A great pitch, never desperate or pumpy (the dry tooling has paid off!) but tricky in places. A definite step up from the other mixed routes that I've done. Last few metres a but scary as there's no gear and the hooks are poor, good thing it's to steep! A great route in good conditions - bomber turf, rock snowed up and rimed up. A cold day, I was ok belaying in two duvets but Phil got cold and miserable belaying me on P3, still made short work of seconding it though! Finished around 6.45, then a slow descent through deep snow (path mostly obliterated by the wind), back at Idwal Cottage at 9.30pm. What a day!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/13 with Phil

Hideous flog through deep snow to bottom of Gribin - oops! Much much more flog to the crag inc several buried streams. Absolutely knacked upon arrival. Led P2, felt easy but thoughtful, a winter wake up! Misha led P3 in style. I froze and then got up sharpish, struggling with frozen hands. Dry tooling certainly paid dividends, technically easy, but winter routes are when seconding!
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/13 with misha

jamesturnbull - Lead - Jan/13 with john w

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/11

Adam Long - AltLd - 20/Dec/10 with Ben Bransby

I lead P1, Matt lead P2, both onsighted cleanly, and the route was in good condition, but it was too late by that time and we abseiled off down. Because of massive snowfall (allegedly 24inches in 2 nights) and close-down of A5 previous day, we had to break the trail on soft snow right after the Ogwen carpark and it took us 2:15 just to get to the crag. We'd like to come back and finish it off!
masa-alpin - AltLd dnf - 19/Dec/10 with Matt P

As good as anything in the Northern Corries
david morse - AltLd O/S - 09/Dec/10 with stevebarratt

stevebarratt - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/10 with Dave Morse

Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Nick Arding

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/10 with Howard Lawledge

superb route buries under lots of snow, hard for the grade?
phil64 - Lead - 21/Feb/10

Superb route. Led P2. First mixed V lead. If I didn't see that insitu peg on P2 and still got up it, it doesn't need to be there!
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Tom R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10

good turf and good hooks
Dave Almond - AltLd - 08/Jan/10 with Neil Griffiths

Superb. Dave led top pitch
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 07/Jan/10 with Dave Almomd

barni - AltLd - 01/Jan/10 with long jon

Adam lead a new direct pitch (The Mankini Start). I lead top pitch. Totally awesome route!!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/09

With 'the mankini start', a direct first pitch
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/09 with Ed Booth

mynyddresident - AltLd - 23/Dec/09

gwh - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/09

frost - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/09 with D Garry

Great route ...soft for the grade?
mux - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/09 with frost

Ian Parnell - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/09 with Jon Winter

zero six - Lead O/S - 2008

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Tom Livingstone, samrad, Ian Jones, vincentvega

Voting
Total votes cast 29
hard VII0 of 13
VII0 of 13
easy VII2 of 13
hard VI1 of 13
VI5 of 13
easy VI4 of 13
hard V1 of 13
V0 of 13
easy V0 of 13
hard 80 of 0
80 of 0
easy 80 of 0
hard 70 of 0
70 of 0
easy 70 of 0
hard 60 of 0
60 of 0
easy 60 of 0
3 Stars14 of 16
2 Stars2 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead5 of 24 (20.8%)
Alt Leads19 of 24 (79.2%)

'Climbed'7 of 24 (29.2%)
clean O/S16 of 24 (66.7%)
dnf1 of 24 (4.2%)