Rockfax Description
Start under the right-hand edge of the slab and make hard moves (4b for the strong) up and left via a polished niche (overhead gear) to gain the slab. Move 2m left then finish direct. The direct start is f6A. © Rockfax
FA. Frank Burgess early 1930s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Blake | 16 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: No stars... the starting holds are absolutely demolished. The start is completely trashed and polished, quite unpleasant. | βeta? | |
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βeta: No stars... the starting holds are absolutely demolished. The start is completely trashed and polished, quite unpleasant. |
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locksbury | 27 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: High foot and rock over FTW! | βeta? | |
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βeta: High foot and rock over FTW! |
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jameslomax | 3 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Airy. Couldn\'t find gear in the traverse left which made this feel scary | βeta? | |
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βeta: Airy. Couldn't find gear in the traverse left which made this feel scary |
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roberto18 | 3 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: The first move is great really give it some and before you now it your at the top, no point messing around with gear after the crux move its easy, so feel brave and go for the solo!. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The first move is great really give it some and before you now it your at the top, no point messing around with gear after the crux move its easy, so feel brave and go for the solo!. |
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LakesWinter | 15 May, 2005 |
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βeta: To mwh not when the moves are about V Diff, and there is a decent thread on the left (a bit easy to miss?) The start is about 4b, no question, you can get a good toe jam in the thin crack under the big flat hold, get the jugs, pull up and stand on the flat polished bit, very good but not VS | βeta? | |
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βeta: To mwh not when the moves are about V Diff, and there is a decent thread on the left (a bit easy to miss?) The start is about 4b, no question, you can get a good toe jam in the thin crack under the big flat hold, get the jugs, pull up and stand on the flat polished bit, very good but not VS |
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mwh | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Irrespective of the difficulty of the first move, the lack of gear on the rest of the climb surely merits VS... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Irrespective of the difficulty of the first move, the lack of gear on the rest of the climb surely merits VS... |
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Jamie B | 7 May, 2003 |
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βeta: The start is defo strenuous 5a, which is good enough for VS (though an easy one) in my book. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The start is defo strenuous 5a, which is good enough for VS (though an easy one) in my book. |
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Whealiebob | 17 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: I only climb VS, but I found this quite an easy solo. As long as you can do a pull up then you can do the first move. The top slab is just easy and enjoyable. Definitely not worth the upgrade to 5b. I'd go for HS 4c (5a if you're weak!!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: I only climb VS, but I found this quite an easy solo. As long as you can do a pull up then you can do the first move. The top slab is just easy and enjoyable. Definitely not worth the upgrade to 5b. I'd go for HS 4c (5a if you're weak!!) |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Curbar Edge)