UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The thin crack and groove in tandem (climbing just the right-hand fissure is 5a) lead into the base of the wide crack. From here move 2m right and climb directly up the slab more easily. © Rockfax

FA. Stan Moore 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes

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User Date Notes
Kryank 19 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really struggled to get established on the slab at the start. backed off
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really struggled to get established on the slab at the start. backed off
Peakphil 22 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: tricky start....but i'm short and it wasn't that hard!! top half is a doddle though, like most of the climbs on this face once you're off the ground you've cracked it!!!
βeta?
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βeta: tricky start....but i'm short and it wasn't that hard!! top half is a doddle though, like most of the climbs on this face once you're off the ground you've cracked it!!!
LakesWinter 15 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward! About S 4b for the route as a whole coz the bottom cleft is about 4b and hard work but well protected
βeta?
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βeta: Awkward! About S 4b for the route as a whole coz the bottom cleft is about 4b and hard work but well protected
Skyfall 18 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Taken direct I found the initial thin crack on its own very hard - well harder than 5a (given in the BMC guide). The top section is a bit of a stroll and not in keeping with the start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Taken direct I found the initial thin crack on its own very hard - well harder than 5a (given in the BMC guide). The top section is a bit of a stroll and not in keeping with the start.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 132
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
April Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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