Rockfax Description
Climb the overhanging crack, just right of the arete, on solid jams to a tricky exit. Another steep one that packs a punch. © Rockfax

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Jack Whiteley 26/May Lead O/S

Nice jams

Oo 07/May Lead
Hidden 17/Apr Solo
papasmurf 16/Apr Lead

Did it lay backing instead of jamming

with Serena Lampre
Ardo 29/Mar Solo O/S
GeneralFifi 24/Jan Lead O/S

Awesome jam practice. Couldn't commit on the solo attempt but did it no problem on the lead. Deserves a star.

with Mondane Fouqueray, Danny Gottschalk
mop449 24/Jan Solo G/U

Bailed on the flash attempt. Committed fully on the second go. This is a superfun boulder/micro-route

with David Miko, Mondane Fouqueray
Robin Nichols 31/Dec/15 Solo O/S
with Jemma
John Higgs 11/Dec/15 Solo O/S
charley 22/Nov/15 Solo rpt
will484 01/Nov/15 Lead dog

Couple of attempts to pull myself up the overhang and put my knee on the ledge because I'm short, one for the tall

gd303uk 19/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Possibly the toughest and shortest Severe 4b I have ever done, the grit rash on the back of my left hand suggests I need to improve my jamming :) I almost gave up but the thought of being spanked by a 4b and the laughing from my partner was enough to make me try a little harder, ouch .

FlavioL1989 18/Oct/15 Solo O/S
meltdown34 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/15 Solo O/S
atom 11/Oct/15 Solo rpt
tom.88 11/Oct/15 2nd O/S
BareBears 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Really really really hard for the grade

mr random 01/Aug/15 Solo
with Ethan Sosin, Mike Sosin
harrison 25/Jul/15 TR dnf

Really tough for the S 4b Eastern Grit gives it - the start is steep!

with Sarah
alex goodall 26/Jun/15 Lead
PeteWilson 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kyla Hall, mark
SGD 30/May/15 Solo O/S

Tough. short but good.

Angus Taylor 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Pretty tough pulling through the overhang, though the gear is solid. HS 4c?

rohai545 20/Mar/15 2nd
with Jonny Holmes
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 31/Jan/15 2nd
will_benfold 31/Jan/15 Lead O/S
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Dec/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 18/Oct/14 TR RP
loco wilko ?/Oct/14 Solo
mark4344 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Payne
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead
Matt Broadhurst 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Alex S
kwickfit 26/Jun/14 2nd
climbingfoetus 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jshields 25/Jun/14 Solo


DavidPC 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Lawrence Beesley-Peck 18/May/14 Solo
Calum Wadsworth 17/May/14 Solo O/S
amccann 17/May/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
planetmarshall 29/Apr/14 Lead

S 4b my arse, even if you can jam. Topsail is easier.

Mayaculpa 29/Apr/14 2nd dnf
with Andrew
cheeky 10/Apr/14 Solo O/S
pete_naylor 16/Mar/14 Lead RP
doyle12 08/Mar/14 -
with Adam
Jenks82 08/Mar/14 2nd
adam carless 16/Feb/14 Solo rpt
Lawrence Beesley-Peck ??/2014 Solo
Hidden 26/Oct/13 TR dog
Jimbo C 06/Oct/13 Solo O/S

Finally committed to the sequence of jams. Harder than Severe methinks.

JimboWizbo 01/Sep/13 Solo dnf

Backed off, adding this to remind myself to learn to jam, surely this is harder than S 4b?

NeilGriffiths 21/Aug/13 Solo
with Adam
Jon_King 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 07/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Mark Duncan 12/Jul/13 -
mfisher 04/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Solo rpt
The Reaper 08/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead
99bolivar 06/Apr/13 2nd dog
with John Hutchinson
ChrisBrooke 02/Mar/13 Solo rpt
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
MikeDowsett ??/2013 Lead
TonyF ??/2013 2nd
deacondeacon 13/Nov/12 Solo O/S
nick ferro 11/Nov/12 Solo
partz 04/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Straddled it halfway up, good fun

JonnyW 04/Nov/12 Lead
yarrow 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Mike_Hayes 22/Aug/12 Lead
ChrisBrooke 18/Aug/12 Solo rpt
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 TR dog
KevInLincoln 17/Jun/12 2nd
with john
john_ni 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with ODL
Climbster 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Leslie
Hidden 29/May/12 Lead dnf
Mike_Hayes 19/May/12 Solo
Daniel Heath 16/May/12 Solo rpt


charley 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Backed of the solo on this at about 3 times over the past 3-4 years. Finally went for the lead. Short, tricky and not very pleasant but managed it okay with two hand jams - knees were involved.

Hidden 26/Mar/12 Lead
laurie turpin 22/Mar/12 Lead
laurie turpin 22/Mar/12 2nd
Michael Aylen 22/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 16/Mar/12 Solo O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
kingholmesy ??/2012 Solo O/S
pippa_g 20/Nov/11 2nd

Much easier than I expected - I'm short and a girl - definitely not 4c!

with Graeme
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Daniels735 07/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Clair Fowler
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with serge
agolay 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Karen Jenkins, John H, Heather Vernon
phja 03/Sep/11 Lead dnf
with candy
Daniel Heath 29/Aug/11 Solo O/S
dobby 200 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Ouncepounce 23/Jul/11 TR O/S

Awkward over the overhang or was it just me?

Hidden 18/Jul/11 Solo
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Eddie Shelbourne 23/Jun/11 Lead
with Terry harris-ellis
steve2006 29/May/11 Lead O/S

first climb of the day. I used my arms and couldn't use technic, my hand jam just kept slipping out.. I need to learn how to climb this! I did it but must has missing something which made me laugh out loud on car journey home. All these years of training and I find a 4b difficult ;-)

with andre
francesanncavanagh 27/Apr/11 2nd
with Ahbi
Chris Redding 17/Apr/11 Solo O/S
AndyPagett 16/Apr/11 2nd
with Adam Mitchell
sharpie530 03/Apr/11 Solo O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
MJP 28/Nov/10 Lead dnf

Well, couldn't do it - overhang too extreme

jymbob 13/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Tricky move around overhang just wasn't happening. May retry.

with Steve Brown
GF 15/Sep/10 Lead
Nick F Smith 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Debbie Bowers
payeo20 30/Aug/10 Lead

one move

Hidden 19/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Will Furnass 31/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Sam Simpson 23/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Reds 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
schristophersmith 18/Jul/10 2nd
PaulGreenhead 18/Jul/10 2nd
with J D Fisher, Kirsty
Kirsty 18/Jul/10 2nd
Andy Hardy 11/Jul/10 2nd


tony wood 04/Jul/10 Solo O/S
wirralclimber1984 13/Jun/10 Solo O/S
pete1993 31/May/10 -
Blackgoby 21/May/10 Lead dnf

I obviously need to work on my jams and overhangs. Numerous attempts but just could not get on it. Missing a trick maybe (or just weak).

with Tracey
payeo20 18/May/10 Lead

one move, quite powerful

Ugly Kid Jo 06/May/10 2nd

Not an elegant climb!

with Skinny
Hidden 06/May/10 Lead O/S
valentinesbabe 23/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Chewed up and spat out numerous times...what happened to my trusty handjamming???? Dangling from one foot at one stage!! Ended up toproping it and following Kev's lead of laybacking the crack from the right.

valentinesbabe 23/Apr/10 TR rpt

Kev's lead

Tithe Technique 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
chumleywarner 23/Apr/10 TR O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Pilch 08/Apr/10 2nd

managed to sit down, half way up

with Graham
mic_b 27/Mar/10 Solo O/S
bennevis 21/Mar/10 Lead dog

Tough at the grade

with Heather
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead dog
gronbech 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Robin & Edward
LivinITlarge 13/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Joe
Chris Sansum 24/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Lunn
johniebriggs ?/Jan/10 Lead
tjhare1 ??/2010 -
Hidden 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 08/Oct/09 Solo
Jonathan Hall 08/Oct/09 Solo
Hidden 18/Sep/09 2nd dnf
superturbo 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Karlos ?/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 2nd dog
John Lewis 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Simon
Andrew Barker 08/Aug/09 Solo rpt

Soloed before.

clive-greenwood 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Anna
popebenedictus 20/Jun/09 Solo O/S
with Soloed
Benrj 19/Jun/09 Solo
with jay mowat
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead rpt
BicepAndrews 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Sally Southall
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Solo O/S
chadrads 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
sean72 21/Mar/09 2nd
with Chadrads
Jeronimo 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Peakology 11/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Chalkycat
Chalky Cat 11/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Dom
Tbaldwin-uk ?/Mar/09 TR
Hidden ??/2009 -
Lewis Stewart ??/2009 Solo O/S
with Dan, Phil, Claire and Eddie
krikoman 28/Sep/08 Solo O/S

This and "Bell Bottom Arete" do not compare to the other Severes to the right of this route, much much harder. I might give this a VS and "Bell Bottom" HS.

Hidden 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Castleclimber 24/May/08 Solo
shed_hed 07/May/08 TR
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd rpt
Dickels ?/Apr/08 TR O/S
with Emma, Marcus
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
goi.ashmore 31/Dec/07 Solo O/S
Twisty 14/Oct/07 TR O/S

One of 10 to manage it

RossT 10/Oct/07 Lead
with Pete Cook
Stuart S 29/Aug/07 Solo dnf

Backed off the overhanging jams. Not my cup of tea.

phill bentham 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
tradguy 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell
Chris Ellis 19/Jun/07 Lead
with Pete Helm
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Lead RP
bullwinkle 05/Jun/07 Solo O/S
capuchinster 02/Jun/07 2nd
with Russ
howlingbaboon 18/May/07 Solo O/S
tristangale 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Rampikino 08/Apr/07 Lead
with Cat
tom.ireson 01/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 21/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Gambit 11/Mar/07 Solo O/S
with Family trip
ebastock ?/Mar/07 2nd
with John Beddard
Hidden 21/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Steve682 ??/2007 TR O/S
with Ruth
Hidden ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
gibbo38 08/Oct/06 Lead
with Robert
PanzerHanzler 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with David Rafe
Somerset swede basher 11/Sep/06 Solo O/S
AJ007 11/Jul/06 Solo
baldcoder 23/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
Mutl3y 28/May/06 Lead
with Clog
Clog 28/May/06 2nd
with Mutl3y
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 11/May/06 Solo O/S
edmitchell ?/May/06 -
tatz45 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Hannah Cappleman
ChrisBrooke 22/Apr/06 2nd
with John Inkpen
Hidden 01/Apr/06 2nd dog
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Pythonist ??/2006 Solo O/S
Nicos 09/Nov/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 26/Sep/05 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/03 Solo rpt
kevp ?/Aug/03 Solo
with Jasen Ainley
Hidden 24/May/03 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 20/Mar/03 Lead
with Tim Stain
Hidden 18/Oct/02 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
Andy Fielding 27/Aug/00 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Mar/00 Solo O/S
RobSimmo 18/Oct/98 TR O/S
with Adult Ed course, Jon Berry
kato'sdad 18/Oct/98 TR
rocktigger ??/1998 Lead O/S
Rampikino 22/Aug/97 Lead
ajoliver 08/Apr/97 Solo RP
Martin Bennett 07/Jul/93 Solo
Roget 01/Feb/92 Solo O/S
adam carless ??/1992 TR O/S
Rob Davies ?/Oct/91 Solo
Laramadness 30/Sep/91 Solo O/S
craig h 29/Apr/90 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/89 Solo O/S
tapley ?/Aug/88 Solo
Iain Thow 14/Sep/87 Solo
Hidden ??/1987 -
steveb2006 09/Jun/85 Solo
Ena ?/Sep/82 Lead
with Martin Trouse
mark-abz 27/Apr/82 Solo
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


Mark Kemball 03/Dec/77 Solo
RichardMc 22/May/77 Solo
petemeads ??/1976 Solo
RichardMc 19/Oct/75 Solo
mikej 20/Apr/75 Solo
mikej 24/Feb/74 Solo
with E
mikej 13/May/73 Solo
mikej 28/Jan/73 Solo
with John Bickerdike, Geoff Williams
mikej 16/Jan/72 Solo
mikej 31/Jan/71 Solo
Andy Say ??/1970 Solo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, AshBash, pr1984, JackPott
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 25
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set