Make a tricky move to gain the central crack which can be jammed or laybacked, and move up on improving holds for a rest under the overhang. Attack this using the obvious crescent-shaped hold, pull over with difficulty and finish more easily up the cracks above.

Unknown 1960

Ticklists: Southern Sandstone apprenticeship., Tonbridge School Sandstone Graded List.

rumblesan 18/Oct TR dnf

not a good choice for the second climb of the day

Charlie1653 18/Oct -
Juan S 11/Oct -
GrahamBEC 11/Oct TR O/S
David Sz 16/Aug TR
with Ollie
Hidden 09/Aug TR RP
Hidden 08/Aug TR RP
Hidden 11/Jul TR dog
Hidden 27/Jun TR RP
jsmcfarland 18/Jun TR rpt

Felt so easy compared to last time, especially as I went the right way with the heelhooking over the roof! Start is as savage as ever...can the footholds get any more polished!

with Alan
martin one 13/Jun TR rpt
with Ian Tingley
Hidden 11/Jun TR dog
chrispypar 12/May TR
Ian Bell 10/May TR rpt

Couple of attempts but got it eventually

with Tania T
Ben Laddiman 07/May TR
with Lenny Black
DampRice ?/May TR
Martin Bagshaw 19/Apr TR RP

1 fall

with Dan Bell, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 19/Apr TR dog

Last climb of the day. Tired at this point. Got a nice hand jam in the bottom section.

Guy Atkinson 14/Apr TR rpt
with Adrian
Hidden 11/Apr TR O/S
kp64zl ?/Apr TR dnf

felt harder than when I tried it last year.

with Julian M
maybe_si 22/Mar TR O/S
timmyhobby 22/Mar TR rpt
ASchwirtz 22/Feb TR O/S
with Russ
Russtygibbons 22/Feb TR
with Ant
Hidden 17/Feb TR O/S
Dale Finnie ??/2015 TR
jw231 09/Nov/14 TR
Wine and climb 20/Sep/14 TR rpt
Guy Atkinson 20/Sep/14 TR RP

Got it first go.

pete_fewings 14/Sep/14 TR O/S
daviesp2 16/Aug/14 TR dnf

got up to top of ear

Richard Justice 16/Aug/14 TR rpt
CurlyStevo 13/Aug/14 TR dnf

bit out of shape due to little recent climbing. managed the 5c lower crack - just - but didn't have the strength left for the overhang :(

with Rob
AdamCB 04/Aug/14 -
FlavioL1989 02/Aug/14 TR O/S
Jamie Everitt 02/Aug/14 TR dnf
Redtournon 01/Jul/14 TR O/S
with JAnet Ethers, Chris Sawford, Colin fisher
BIgYeti86 ?/Jun/14 TR
Alex 74 30/May/14 TR dnf
with Tim
Hidden 18/May/14 TR rpt
jsmcfarland 05/May/14 TR RP

Tried the route last year and chickened out trying to get over the roof. Much stronger this year and got up the first section without too much difficulties. Getting over the roof was hard as I mantled over the wrong way and was off balance. Classic climb!

with Neil from Wiltshire
CurlyStevo 23/Apr/14 TR

Done off a fist jam in the lower crack. Found the whole climb surprisingly straight forward just one fingery move really.

with Rob
Hidden 15/Apr/14 TR dog
matt.jj 05/Apr/14 TR β
with Sue Paddon
kp64zl ?/Apr/14 TR dnf

couldnt get onto the ledge

matt.jj 08/Mar/14 TR rpt
with Dave Mahon
elyben 23/Feb/14 TR
pete1185 07/Dec/13 TR dog
with Dom Koole
Hidden 30/Sep/13 -
Hidden 28/Sep/13 TR O/S
Munch 03/Sep/13 TR β
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Hidden 09/Jun/13 TR
Hidden 05/Jun/13 TR O/S
Emma Reynolds 16/May/13 TR β
mrteale ?/May/13 TR
jsmcfarland ?/May/13 TR dog

Rested halfway after the crimpy section

Chris Sieradzki 21/Apr/13 TR O/S
with Hooo
Hidden 21/Apr/13 TR O/S
Ian Ackerley 14/Apr/13 TR
with Mervyn Lamacraft, Martin Hore
leonr23 ?/Apr/13 TR rpt
martin one 30/Mar/13 TR rpt
with HMA
torsok 16/Feb/13 TR RP

Faffed few starts & managed to struggle round the roof!

with Steph, Tim
Steve Dunton ??/2013 -
tomendean ??/2013 -
RamblingRyan 08/Nov/12 TR dog
with Col
Hidden 07/Nov/12 TR rpt
Hidden 29/Sep/12 TR rpt
HassenBali 18/Aug/12 TR dnf
with Jon Kwan, Eoin Parker
tradguy 11/Aug/12 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/12 TR
jh123 28/Jul/12 TR rpt
Stewart Armstrong 28/Jul/12 TR dnf

did the nasty crack on the second attempt and then did not realise the finish goes over the roof which may be a bit easier than the crack apparently

adam 24 28/Jul/12 TR O/S
NathanW 23/Jul/12 TR O/S
with Laura
Hidden 30/Jun/12 TR rpt
tradguy 23/Jun/12 TR rpt
with Mark Hazell
BarefootCeds 20/Jun/12 TR dog

Almost clean on sight if it wasn't for the overhanging bit, because I didn't grab the right hold!

with Dave Mahon
matt.jj 13/Jun/12 TR rpt
nic42 ?/Jun/12 TR
Hidden 19/May/12 TR RP
Matt250 17/May/12 TR O/S
sparkass 15/Apr/12 TR O/S
with Ian Stronghill
Graham C 13/Apr/12 TR rpt
with Derek
tunaficiency 08/Apr/12 TR O/S
with kate surry
tex.ryan 01/Mar/12 TR O/S
with jib jib
IanMulvany 26/Feb/12 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 TR O/S
Cat G ??/2012 TR
Hidden ??/2012 -
SandyB ??/2012 -
Mike Parks 27/Nov/11 TR dnf
with Todd, Ean, Cess
Hidden 27/Nov/11 TR rpt
Hidden 27/Nov/11 TR dnf
Ian Bell 26/Nov/11 TR β
with Tania T
kiks 01/Oct/11 TR O/S
dunky 10/Sep/11 -

Managed the bottom, failed on the roof a couple of times.. will do it clean next time... Didn't find the knee bar.

Mike Parks 27/Aug/11 TR dnf
with Sue, Kendra, Debs, Cess
Hidden 24/Aug/11 TR RP
mattshort 20/Aug/11 TR O/S
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/11 TR
with Rob, Matt
PowerPigtails 31/Jul/11 TR O/S
with Duncan Cantor, Lorraine Pope
Hidden 09/Jul/11 -
Rich K 04/Jul/11 TR dnf
with Wayne Cheung
littleluke 02/Jul/11 -
Jon Read 02/Jul/11 TR
with Matt Gallagher
Jon Read 02/Jul/11 TR
with Matt Gallagher
patsaunders ?/Jul/11 TR
Hidden 21/Jun/11 TR
wi11 06/Jun/11 TR β
with Marcus, Nat
Tru 30/May/11 TR RP
Hidden 29/May/11 TR RP
Hidden 29/May/11 TR dnf
Hidden 12/May/11 TR β
Jim Malo 10/May/11 TR dnf
with Mark
Hidden 08/May/11 TR
Hidden 07/May/11 TR
finchelata 06/May/11 TR rpt

Climbed a couple of years ago onsight (I think).

with Mark
Hidden 06/May/11 TR rpt
alan1234 29/Apr/11 TR O/S
dan gibson 10/Apr/11 TR rpt
with anna barnes
barfani chita 09/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Saurus
Guy Atkinson 09/Apr/11 TR dnf
with Dick, Nick Briggs
Hidden 03/Apr/11 TR rpt
steve2006 02/Apr/11 TR O/S
feilx 27/Mar/11 TR O/S
with Heather
barfani chita 13/Mar/11 TR RP
with Saurus
Hidden 12/Mar/11 TR
Hidden 04/Mar/11 TR dnf
climber46 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 TR
JIMJIM ??/2011 TR
with Tex
keith leonard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 TR
james.pilbeam ??/2011 -
michaelcolledge ??/2011 TR β
Hidden ??/2011 TR β
timmyhobby ??/2011 TR
Alex Munnery ??/2011 TR β
with Jake Shreeve
Hidden ??/2011 TR dnf
royal 24/Nov/10 TR RP

First time back in a while and chuffed to get this clean after getting so close but in bad style last time. Did it a couple of times and in good style after working the moves out.

with rob
matt.jj 09/Nov/10 TR O/S
benscarter 09/Oct/10 TR RP
Graham C 02/Sep/10 TR rpt

too much chalk

with Derek
givemetea 08/Aug/10 TR rpt
with Craig Jenkins, Hannah Heywood
cayteye 03/Aug/10 TR β
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 03/Aug/10 TR
Danny Crump 26/Jul/10 TR dog
barfani chita 24/Jul/10 TR dnf
with Saurus
davidrblakeman 11/Jul/10 TR β
with Oli Ryan
tscoobydoo ?/Jul/10 -
royal ?/Jul/10 TR dog

Awesome route but another wasted onsight. Fell a couple times on the overhang before getting over in awful belly roll style! looking forward to doing it again in good style. Should have done more routes at the grade before attempting it. Going to save the good 6a routes until I've practiced on the not so good ones!!

with Karen
tex.ryan ?/Jul/10 TR
with jib jib
Hidden ?/Jul/10 TR RP
nigel pearson 13/Jun/10 TR O/S

quite tricky mantel, heel hook above overhang

with lucy
dan gibson 24/May/10 TR rpt
zombie_pat 22/May/10 TR dog
with Lewis
Radical-G 25/Apr/10 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/10 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 TR β
Hidden 18/Apr/10 TR β
givemetea 18/Apr/10 TR dog
Hidden 18/Apr/10 TR O/S
davidrblakeman 13/Apr/10 TR rpt
Simon Bowyer 11/Apr/10 TR β
with Nik
Alexandre Buisse 21/Mar/10 TR
Hidden 06/Mar/10 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/10 TR O/S
Danny Crump 06/Mar/10 TR
LiL Saz 06/Mar/10 TR dnf
Hidden ??/2010 TR
Simon Bowyer ??/2010 -
vid ??/2010 -
Unclejona ??/2010 -
sachichas ??/2010 TR
stuartberg 31/Dec/09 TR O/S
Hidden 07/Nov/09 TR dnf
Hidden 12/Sep/09 -
patrickc 22/Aug/09 TR
Hidden 02/Aug/09 TR O/S
Ade7 02/Aug/09 TR O/S
with Jasmina
Anthony Allsopp 02/Aug/09 TR O/S
with Olly Ryan
JPGR ?/Aug/09 TR
with Steve Ahern
Jevans ?/Aug/09 TR
Hidden 28/Jul/09 TR RP
Hidden 28/Jul/09 TR dnf
Monk 18/Jul/09 TR rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/09 TR
Hidden ?/Jul/09 TR dnf
Hidden 30/Jun/09 TR dnf
Hidden 19/Jun/09 TR O/S
Graham C 06/Jun/09 TR rpt
Monk 06/Jun/09 TR O/S
mikehenesy ?/Jun/09 TR O/S

must have cheated because I can't climb 5c. Otherwise well done my first 5c. Beers are on the sweaty bloke covered in sand.

with Tom Boeux
Teemo 23/May/09 TR dnf
martin one 19/Apr/09 TR RP
with Sue
RFWilkie 04/Apr/09 TR rpt
Hidden 22/Mar/09 TR dnf
riddle 22/Mar/09 TR dog
with Yasmina
Hidden ??/2009 -
hippo xx ??/2009 -
olipab121 ??/2009 -
davidrblakeman ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
davebowes ??/2009 -
Hidden 09/Oct/08 TR dnf
Marti999 26/Sep/08 TR O/S
Graham C 26/Sep/08 TR rpt

too much chalk

with Marti
breed 01/Sep/08 TR O/S
Eoinparker 30/Aug/08 TR
with Gaby Amiel
Al Franks 16/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Luke and Nicki
lukehodson 16/Aug/08 TR O/S

cool route

Alasdair88 16/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Luke hodson, Nicki
pete_fewings ?/Aug/08 TR
Luke Marsden ?/Jul/08 TR
with Jonathan Plumridge
Hidden 30/Jun/08 TR β
mr random 29/Jun/08 TR
Hidden 18/Jun/08 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 -
Graham C 21/May/08 TR O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 TR
PKR 12/Feb/08 -
strapless ??/2008 -
dickie01 ??/2008 -
jimmay ??/2008 TR O/S
mrthehud ??/2008 TR
with Tom Hudson
timo.t 07/Oct/07 TR O/S

Groveled a bit, as I got the sequence a bit wrong on the overhang, not the most stylish ascend, but up we went.

with Ben
mikeyfield 25/Aug/07 TR O/S
Sean Cunliffe 04/Aug/07 TR rpt
with Tim
manwithacam ?/Aug/07 TR
with Alex
Hidden 16/Jul/07 TR O/S
martin one 07/Jul/07 TR
with sue and dave
davidwright 26/May/07 TR RP
kendogcatchy ?/Apr/07 TR RP
tyler vacher ?/Mar/07 TR β
Hidden 03/Feb/07 TR O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Nathan Kemp ??/2007 TR
Hidden ??/2007 -
chrisrogers ??/2007 TR
themidnightninja ??/2007 TR
Graeme Hammond 10/Sep/06 TR dog
with Pete aka Dad
Hidden ?/Sep/06 TR O/S
Dhonny_Jaws ?/Sep/06 TR RP
Hidden 20/Aug/06 TR β
Hidden 17/Aug/06 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/06 TR rpt
BoulderMonster 21/Jul/06 -
Rob Laird 16/Jul/06 TR O/S
finter22 26/Jun/06 TR dog

with richey tramp

dan gibson 07/May/06 TR
with AJ
Simon Webb 26/Mar/06 TR RP
with Adam
Hidden 22/Jan/06 TR dog
MikeC59 23/Jul/05 TR
Hidden 21/Jul/05 TR O/S
Wilbur 10/Apr/05 TR dnf
with Iain
Hidden ??/2005 TR
Rokmunky ??/2005 TR
AJ007 ??/2005 TR
Jacob Ram 25/Jul/04 TR
with elisa best
KarlH 05/Jun/03 TR
with Phil Lilley
Ab Wilson 16/Mar/03 TR O/S
with Georgina Turnbull
Hidden ??/2003 -
clive-greenwood ??/2003 TR
danieljmarsh ??/2003 -
julian allen 09/Nov/02 TR
Rob Davies ?/Aug/02 TR
Brown 14/Apr/01 TR
chris wyatt ??/2001 TR
Hidden 30/Sep/00 TR
Lepista 11/Jul/00 TR
Lepista 15/Jun/00 TR
Jon Read ??/2000 TR
with Matt Gallagher
NickP ??/2000 -
Jacob Ram 21/Nov/99 TR
with mike taylor
Jacob Ram 13/Jun/99 TR
Hidden ??/1997 -
Hidden 02/Sep/95 TR O/S
Hidden ??/1995 TR
andy gittins ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1989 TR O/S
craig h ??/1989 -
Hidden 31/Jul/88 TR
Gordon Stainforth 03/Apr/83 TR
with David BA Jones
Rob Davies ??/1983 TR
Gordon Stainforth 06/Aug/78 TR

'One of the best sandstone days ever. Going very well. 32 routes.'

Gordon Stainforth 13/Mar/77 TR
with Sam Whimster
Chris Terrey ??/1974 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, avmpsycho, Hidden, Fishmate, LionSJH, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set