UKC Logbook - 'Fern Hill'

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Derbyshire > Cratcliffe Tor >

Fern Hill

E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Fern Hill Indirect

Owl Gully >>

[Jibberingwreck seconding Fern Hill, 2 kb]

12m. Magnificent strenuous climbing up the diagonal cracks in the left wall of Owl Gully. Start by a thin horizontal crack and swing left (small wires can be placed first by bridging out). Make some hard moves to pass the bifurcation then continue along the rising juggy diagonal to the arete and a good rest. Step back right and pull over the roof finishing with a steep mantelshelf onto a ledge just below the cliff top. Photo page 354. © ROCKFAX
FA. Keith Myhill (one point of aid) 1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Very good routes in the UK, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, The Froggatt to Black Rocks into E2 smile list, The Real Thing Ticklist.

Photo: Jibberingwreck seconding Fern Hill © Dave Bond
View all 14 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 273 logbooks, and on 50 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

sgl0jd - 22/Apr/13

Didn't find the crux as hard as I thought I would, but then, I had good beta. I think the key is getting your feet well sorted.
Will Hunt - Lead β - 07/Apr/13 with Huw Goodall

climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/12 with Mike Watson

mwatson - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/12

Finished after placing a cam in the way of a crucial hold last time. The crux is ace, easier than five finger exercise. Beautiful
James Oswald - Lead rpt - 02/Nov/12 with Colin Angus

had a look at this last year but didn't really feel up to it at the time. great moves and holds throughout.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - Nov/12 with ben

A poor effort. Managed to place a cam on the best hold and fell off. I'll be back
James Oswald - Lead dnf - 20/Oct/12 with Kyle Wood

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/12

soph - 2nd - 12/Oct/12 with John McCune, Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Oct/12

2nd go. slipped off at start on first attempt and started again.
john lynch - 2nd - 06/Oct/12 with ed luke

So good it cured my hangover.
Ahab - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

With a fall from firsspt move
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 31/Aug/12 with Andrew Deckon

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

highrepute - Lead O/S - 19/May/12

Led on Sir Jacobs gear. Harder than Five finger.
Joe Costello - Lead β - 19/May/12 with James

david morse - Lead O/S - 17/May/12 with nathan lawrence

bit of back forthing at the start before going for it. first grit e2
tomhull - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Chris Plant

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

EagerAndy - Lead - 2012

Fell off crux mover first go. Ground up.
pmurdy - Lead RP - 20/Nov/11 with Jonny Reay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11

westaway - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11

phil64 - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/11 with nick gillett

Dirk Uhlig - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11

Slipped off start.
Chris_barr - Lead RP - 21/Sep/11 with James

Was advised to wide bridge to get an early runner in, easy for the leggy. Found it pretty straightforward, after sprinting the initial tricky section it is mega juggy all the way. 5 fingers next.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Mike

wolverine - 2nd - 17/Aug/11 with Matt Sparkes

Finally got that crux move after getting pumped out of my brain!
Mr Sparkle - Lead RP - 17/Aug/11 with Mike Hayes

Finally Ive done that move! The rest of the route felt harder than I'd expected, got very pumped!
Si dH - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Mike Henesy

Simon thought it would be a cake walk after the initial crux but he found it a heroic struggle, well done! I didn't have the strength for the crux hold, but once past that it was fine. Different route seconding I suggest, well pleased though, thoroughly enjoyable throughout and did bags for my confidence.
mikehenesy - 2nd dog - 13/Aug/11 with Simon DeHaan

Brown - 2nd - 07/Aug/11 with Tim

Hidden - 07/Aug/11

Tom Redmond - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

Very annoyed to have slipped off the finishing moves on the crux. A fun little pendulum into the gully. Got it easily next go. The crux is quite short lived but interest is maintained. A top quality route. Should put this as 'led with falls' but just put 'lead' so it would count for Extreme Rock ticklist!
Misha - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with Tom R

Fell off / wussed out of the first move first go, started again and got it all ok
bigdrew - Lead RP - 30/Jun/11 with Ian Milward

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/11

Bit like doing a bungee jump! The hard bit is the setting off :) Great route!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 17/May/11

Excellent, not to hard after the crux, wanted to do this for ages (rpt as unfortunately fell off reversing from the crux last year in too hot conditions)
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 14/May/11 with james pcc

akhughes - Lead O/S - 04/May/11

So cool.
JRae - 2nd - 04/May/11 with P Latham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/May/11

liam - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Mark R

pumpy
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Apr/11

Dizz - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with hugh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

awesome, tricky
spidey - Lead - 02/Apr/11 with Jimmy

billb - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/11

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - Mar/11

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Feb/11

Awesome. Shame I fell/rested so much but great experience for me. Tough first few moves!
Daniel Heath - Lead dog - 03/Feb/11 with Remus

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

Ben C - 2011

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2011 with Richard B, Andy S

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Gutted, spent a long time placing the gear for the crux and reversing back ot the gully for rests, then fell off passing the gear placements. Eventually managed to do the move after resting on gear for a while but then decided not to carry on. It was a bit greasy and damp but really just wasnt feeling strong enough! Very campus-y. Need to go back.
Si dH - Lead dnf - 31/Oct/10 with Andy

petegunn - Lead - 21/Oct/10 with Davina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/10

Felt very hard, but that might just be because it was far too hot, and ridiculously sweaty. Will come back to it at some point.
Dan Lane - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/10 with Dad

The moves aren't too hard but placing the gear is!
MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Tim

Hope to repeat soon on lead as it was sustained but excellent jams. Will need to place gear quickly though!!
tigertim - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with Mike McEwen

pie_eater_pete - Aug/10

Wow what a route i got to the arete then realised i'd gone across too low so had to go back right then up a bit more so pumped by here had to rest. a minute later cruised to the rest and the heaven's opened. Then took an hour and a half to ab off to get all the gear back. Frustrating to get rained off but the climbing out to the arete deserves 3 stars on it's own.
kermit_uk - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/10 with Steve Woolass

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Kirk, Pete Harris

gordonday - TR dog - 12/Jun/10 with clive

Great climbing, instant exposure & positive holds. Need to improve before leading it, though...
Kirk - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10 with Tuze, P Harris

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with David Gilling

led after tez on his gear, had previously seconded
Belier - Lead β - 21/May/10 with Ivan, tez

Totally dersperate, fell twice, should have bridged to get the gear in. Had a bad back.
Tez29 - Lead dog - 21/May/10 with Steve, Ivan

Great route, not as hard as FFE but just as good. After the crux it's absolute plastered in jugs
Bart Shaw - 2nd O/S - 18/May/10 with Jon

nacnud - Lead O/S - 05/May/10 with Natalie Tanzer

natalietanzer - TR dog - 05/May/10 with Duncan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 06/Apr/10 with Rich Cross

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/10

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/10 with andy elliot

tom.e - Lead β - 13/Mar/10 with Malcolm

Seymore Butt - 2010

Nicos - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09 with rich howels

First grit E2! Was a bit of a fight in the lower sections (crux). Gear improves and climbing eases toward to top.
Glyn - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Chris Davis

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/09

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/09 with michael porter

madmats - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with PeakDJ

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 22/May/09 with Rose Williams

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Joe

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/09 with daniel lee

DannyK - 2nd RP - 20/Feb/09 with pep

barni - 2nd rpt - 02/Dec/08 with Phill dowthwaite

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/08

What a marvellous route. I didn't have to think much and the moves just flowed.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/08 with Danger

mark s - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with andi t

Only just! Crux felt ok but got horrendously pumped.
Stig - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

wolverine - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/08 with Matt Sparkes

Will_he_fall - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08 with Amy

loundsy - 2nd - 14/Jun/08 with marcus

Compo - Lead β - 31/May/08 with Kev Faux

Julian Mowbray - Lead O/S - 26/May/08 with Richard

Castleclimber - 2nd - 26/May/08 with Julian Mowbray

jibberingwreck - 2nd O/S - 02/May/08 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - May/08

IanJackson - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/08 with Luke Hunt

Hidden - Lead β - Apr/08

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Ryan Brooks

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 2008 with Ian Jackson

Hidden - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

tuftynick - 2008

willackers - 2nd β - 06/Nov/07 with Tom Mills, Dan Walker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/07

Top route and a top lead from Steve. I had to dangle a couple of times on the first few moves figuring out how to get the gear and where to go with hands but clean from the first split. Pumpy!
catt - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/07 with Steve M

SteveM - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Catt

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/07

Have reversed off this several times previously. still found it powerful today.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/07 with K and Vash

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/07 with Brian Rogers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jul/07

frost - 2nd - Jun/07 with N Griffiths

Coel Hellier - Lead - 25/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead - 10/Mar/07

Chad123 - AltLd O/S - Feb/07 with Rik and Viv

Rob Kennard - 2007

haydng - 2nd O/S - 2007 with Rob

Toby Dunn - 2007

feilx - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Felix Coxwell

cem - Lead dnf - 08/Oct/06 with Miles Butteriss

Peakology - 2nd O/S - May/06

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

mbutton - Lead O/S - 2006 with Laurie Saxton

Apharri - Lead O/S - Oct/05 with Dave Wharton

shark - Lead rpt - 23/Jan/05 with Joe Picalli

north country boy - Lead O/S - Jan/05 with Laura Evans, Tom Mills

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2005

WB - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04 with Guy

lukea - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/04 with Al

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/04

cornishben - Lead O/S - 2004 with Gavin Edwards

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 2004 with Clare Wilkie

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 2004 with Phil Leng

excellent, fantastic, amazing route
chris warner - 2nd - Oct/03 with james raitt

Very pleased to get this, as I'd tried a couple of years before and couldn't work out the cruxy start.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - Sep/03 with Thea Williams

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/03 with Pammy, Anni and Wilkie

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/03 with Simon Wren

bigphil - Lead dog - 25/May/03 with Toby

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/03

CrashMat Rob - TR - 22/Feb/03 with Martin Whelan

Obi-Wan is lost... - Lead - 2003

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/02

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/02

Hidden - Lead - Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/02

Had wanted to do it for years.
highlux - Lead O/S - Mar/02

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - Aug/01 with Thea Williams