Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Padme* HVS 5a

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looking Through Gary Gibson's Eyes >>
[Keith Sanders Padme 1970 in gollies rock shoes, 5 kb]The shallow groove gives a pleasant pitch with a tricky start and finish. Most people descend from the ledge, but there is a worthwhile upper pitch on the face above (4c) which can be done in one run-out with no change in grade. A little loose. © ROCKFAX
This route has also gone under the name of "Pology Wall"
FA. B.Webb 1961. Previously aided.

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Keith Sanders Padme 1970 in gollies rock shoes © keith sanders
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 339 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/14

pulseroom - Lead - 13/Mar/14

bottom pitch only
cragtyke - Lead - 04/Mar/14 with Ross

Deezel65 - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/14 with Cragtyke

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/14

I think the hard bit of P1 is the upper-middle section not the start or end. Also did P2 which is quite a good VS in its own right. Differed from the topo on P2 pulling through the overhang further left at a crack in line with the lower groove. This was the best bit really and might explain why other people thought it was a rubbish pitch.
JHiley - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/14 with Drew

Brannock - Lead - 02/Feb/14

my hardest limestone lead to date.top pitch is fucking shite
the power - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/13 with ken

adamashcroft - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Sep/13

Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with andy lawrence

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13

Tamati - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Jane

JRigby - 2nd - 26/Aug/13 with Will

Polished to distraction
Kevster - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Lizzie, Jon C

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/13

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Vik Archer, Hoosh

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/13

Seconded last year. Nice to lead
sazmaz - Lead RP - 07/Aug/13 with Frank Ramsden

sting - TR - 06/Aug/13 with Mike Sender, Mike Traxion

led both pitches. bottom pitch is sublime. top pitch is still very good
adrianscott - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/13 with Ben Harding

popebenedictus - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/13 with Adrian Scott

matthomas79 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Dave Garner

dsgarner - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Matt Thomas

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Broome

Ian Broome - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/13 with Chris

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/13

Pitch 1 only.
LakesWinter - 2nd - 29/Jun/13 with John Cooper, Dave

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Val P

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/13

Jenny Clarke - 2nd - Jun/13 with dave

jwpil - 2nd rpt - 27/May/13 with Jake

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Jack

matiamallia - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with pawelgregorczyk

jwpil - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13 with liam

kez1 - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/13 with ian clare, rob rendle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/13

Brannock - Lead - 17/Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Feb/13

drsdave - 2013 with John C, Mat

Ran out to the top. Makes a nice 30m pitch.
Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 18/Nov/12 with Tony Holdsworth

Lovely sunny day
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 18/Nov/12 with Andy Sloan

Hidden - Lead - 17/Nov/12

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead - 28/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/12

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Rosh

Wayne S - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Gary

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Sep/12

To the top in one. Polish is easily avoidable.
treg - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Lynsey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 05/Sep/12 with Rob Middleton

Nice. Solid, clean, good gear, good moves, good route
jkarran - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Broom, Grant

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Grant

GrantB - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Broom Dog, James

CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Joe

JHiley - 2nd - 07/Aug/12 with CRiddiford

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12

robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Si

Hidden - 2nd β - 27/Jul/12

Double Knee Bar - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

nai - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/12 with Andrew

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Graeme Hammond

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/12 with Richard

ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Duncan Bell

All the way to the top (don't bother...)
mark20 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/12

nice route, reckon the top pitch would be pretty good if it didnt feel like it was about to fall apart
J.Wells - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Mark Rankine

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

sazmaz - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 17/May/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/May/12

cem - 2nd rpt - 12/May/12 with Graham Dolman

jamiev - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Sean Lynch

johncook - TR - 08/Apr/12

Lead first pitch, did the second direct without the traverse, made for some nice moves.
CharlieMack - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Jen Maxfield

Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Bryce Rigler

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Feb/12

including the face above, good route, solid HVS.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/12

Sean Kelly - 2012

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/11

Climbed all the way to the top.
Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 20/Aug/11

IAmAStone - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Charlie Jefferson

Andrew Barker - 2nd rpt - 03/Aug/11 with Cat Black

previously lead 2 years ago, was much less scared this time! Very sweaty
catblack - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/11 with Andy Barker

chrisbussell - Lead - 02/Aug/11 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

Dave Gilling - 2nd - 05/Jun/11 with Chris Parson

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/11 with Chris Parson

did the top pitch in one, nice pitch and not actually polished.
al123 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with hannes

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/11

999thAndy - Lead rpt - 24/May/11 with Barry Duckworth

Barry D - 2nd - 24/May/11 with Andy H

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 24/May/11 with Adam Hughes, Ian Holtby

bigbirdflying - 2nd - 23/May/11 with Chris Brook

madasten - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Shaun

Really pleasant climbing with polished middle section. Good holds and gear
Sam1991 - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Andy J and Mark

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Mark R, Sam Dixon

Really good if a bit polished. Solid HVS with some lovely moves.
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Tom

Good climb. Pretty polished though.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Becca

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Apr/11

smudge - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/11 with Dan Poulter

alasdair19 - 2011

nice climb tough polished and damp but it is nov and limestone :)
D J Williams - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

Defo worthwhile running both pitches together. The very top is a bit loose, but some nice moves getting there.
PeteH - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/10 with Mike Grant

galpinos - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Ben

first HVS on limestone and loved it. bit polished though!
LukeP LCC - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with steve kirman

Awesome. First HVS. Topped out a little pumped. An awesome climb. Just a short hard bit. Holds are always decent.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Mark Rankine

Lead with gear in
gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10

Hidden - 06/Sep/10

felt better without the upper pitch
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Pete Wimbush

Guido led first, pulled ropes and climbed on his pre placed gear.No rests but grabbed the gear twice due to bricking it the first time and being insanely pumped the second!.
pebbles - Lead dog - 26/Jul/10

rob1 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/10 with Rob Gray

Dogmusher - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/10 with charles moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/10 with Mark O'Neill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10

withb guido
philb - 2nd - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/10

Pete Graham - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with Ben Dorey

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/10

Hannes B - 2nd - 23/May/10 with Chrissy, Robin

took a couple of tries to work the crux, nice little sequence...
Oliver Houston - Lead dog - 21/May/10

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 09/May/10 with Richard White

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 03/May/10 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

Ollie B - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with S.Bennett

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Anna Jennings, James Moneypenny, Kieran Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/10

duzinga - 2nd rpt - 14/Mar/10 with Stu Bolton

TonyF - 2010

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 2010

Really enjoyed the line. Mostly lead on Mikey's gear.
Oliver Branagan - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Mikey B, Miles M

Finished up top wall, excellent route, sustained interesting climbing.
Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 25/Oct/09 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 25/Oct/09

masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Sirion

JulesV - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Shauna Cunningham

Shauna - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Jules

Hidden - 06/Sep/09

middle aged slob - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Brian and Dave

James Thacker - 2nd - 21/Aug/09

polished to buggery.
duzinga - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Pete Brown and Dave

smudge - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Matt Burney

Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Cat Black

Great route....got quite scared at the top and had a good shake going on!
catblack - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Andy Barker

and upper pitch all in one long run out
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/09 with Matt

+ upper pitch
Ketu - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Graeme H

nice combination
Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Rob

Hidden - 08/Jul/09

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/09

nathanlee - 2nd β - Jul/09

cem - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/09 with Pete Horn

Hidden - 20/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/09

slacky - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Nick Taylor

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Hidden - 10/May/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/09

Sankey - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - 2nd β - 18/Apr/09 with Stephen

Mid height moves are very good and take some thinking, 2 stars deserving I felt.
GuyVG - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/09 with Ian Storey

godusty - 2nd - 22/Mar/09 with GARY WINTER

lamma_hippie - Lead - 20/Mar/09 with Jon Lawton

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/09 with Guido

Hidden - 19/Mar/09

lowersharpnose - Lead - 11/Mar/09 with PeakDJ

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Mar/09

Brown - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Henry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Neil and Gary

howlingbaboon - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Guido

Hidden - Lead - 28/Feb/09

metal arms - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/09

ian storey - Lead - 2009 with guy van greuning

MilesMcgennity - 2nd O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Aug/08

PenJD - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Dave Johnson

quite polished and nicely sustained.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Ed

EdShep - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Pilch

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08 with John Camateras

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with John

Will_he_fall - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with tatts

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/08

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 14/May/08 with Phil Leng

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/08

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/08

roberto18 - AltLd - 23/Feb/08 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/08

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - TR dog - 13/Oct/07

tontopink - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07

chris j - 2nd rpt - 06/Oct/07 with Doug

chris j - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Doug

Some nice moves.
Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd rpt - 25/Aug/07 with Adam Carless

Scared myself silly, got very sweaty on very polished holds and loose blocks. The moves were good, but climbing on soap is never fun.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Nick Smith - UKC

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/07

Becky E - 2nd - 09/Aug/07 with Angus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/07

Mick B - 2nd rpt - 19/May/07 with Guy Tooth

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/07

cem - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/07 with Eric Olson

Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/07

Rjukan - Feb/07 with Sam

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 2007

Martin Haworth - Lead - Feb/06 with Andy

keith leonard - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 2005

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/04 with sharon

shark - Lead rpt - 11/Dec/04 with Mark Hundleby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/04

did top pitch. not many people do it. very good pitch
robin heath - AltLd O/S - 27/May/04 with Carl Riley

willackers - Lead O/S - 2004 with J.Bickerstaff

Sam and will - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/03 with Anthony Bennett

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/02 with Trev Tatler

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/02 with Fiend

Sam and will - 2nd - 23/Mar/02 with Anthony Bennett

SarahM - Lead O/S - Jul/01 with Skygodley

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - May/01 with Jane

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/01

Phil West - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/01 with Steve Wild

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/99

Unseconded. My first HVS lead.
cem - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/99

Chris Ellis - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/98 with Louise Pellett

phardman - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/97 with Bill McKee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/97

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/97

craig h - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/97 with Janet Hannah

Roget - Solo rpt - 07/Sep/96

Hidden - Lead - 08/May/96

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/96

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/96

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/95

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/95

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/95

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 15/Jun/94

Hidden - Lead - 27/Feb/94

Hidden - TR - 20/Feb/94

Hidden - Lead - 1994

John Marsland - 2nd - 18/Aug/93 with Darrell Small

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jul/93

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jan/93

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 02/May/92 with Pom

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - May/92

Budge - Lead O/S - May/92 with Brian Ottewell

nai - 2nd - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/91

craig d - Solo rpt - 1991

chrisrogers - 2nd O/S - Jul/90 with Chris J

leathers - AltLd - 28/Jun/90 with James Thomas

Roget - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/90 with jim

possibly seconded at some point
Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Nov/89

Iain Thow - 2nd - 07/Jun/89 with Paul Eastwood

Backinthegame - Lead - Feb/89

rob.grafton - AltLd - 1989 with barry maybank

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/88

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/88

surfbish - Lead O/S - Feb/88

Hidden - 1988

Pete Pozman - Lead - Sep/87 with John Byrne

sadams - 2nd - 01/Aug/87 with Guy Townsend

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/87

Hidden - Solo - 1987

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1987

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/86

steve taylor - Lead - Jun/86 with Nicky Beresford

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/86

Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/86 with Mark Gray

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/86

Hidden - Lead - 08/Mar/86

pebblespanker - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/86 with Sue Fowbert

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 1986 with Phil Cundy

Nigel Bond - Lead - 15/Sep/85 with Martin Crosby

shark - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/85 with Howard

sadams - Lead - 04/Apr/85

Hidden - Lead - 22/Feb/85

Jude climbed this in style. TimBur fell off twice.
Simon2005 - 2nd - 1985 with JimB

Steve Lenartowicz - 1985

neilh - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/84 with dave croker

malc - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/84

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/84

Ian Clare - 1984

Ian Clare - 1984

shark - 2nd O/S - 11/Dec/83 with Bongo

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jan/83

Autumn Leaves finish
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 26/Jan/83 with Paul "Curly" Williamson

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Derek Shaw

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1983 with RW

andy gittins - 1983

Ena - 2nd - Sep/82 with Martin Trouse

Nic Robinson - Solo O/S - 07/Jun/81

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Feb/81

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

ewar woowar - 1981

L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd - 21/Jun/80

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 02/Apr/80 with Frank Hughes

Nic Robinson - AltLd - 1980

mikej - 2nd - 19/Oct/79 with Mike Byles

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 06/Jun/79 with Bob Marks

GeoffG - 2nd - 19/Apr/79

Mike Owen - 29/Oct/78 with Brian Jones

rogerskews - Lead - 01/Jan/78 with Martin Coward

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 06/Mar/76 with Martyn Hurn

Mark Kemball - Lead - 18/Jan/76 with Mark Pearce

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Oct/75

Including top pitch then known as Autumn Leaves.
Dave Musgrove - 23/Mar/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 1975 with Glynne Andrew

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1974

David Smith - Lead - 1974 with Al Bennett

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 07/Apr/73

Tom V - 1969

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, mapperley samurai, joel182

Voting
Total votes cast 194
hard E10 of 68
E10 of 68
easy E10 of 68
hard HVS11 of 68
HVS50 of 68
easy HVS6 of 68
hard VS1 of 68
VS0 of 68
easy VS0 of 68
hard 5b0 of 65
5b0 of 65
easy 5b0 of 65
hard 5a22 of 65
5a42 of 65
easy 5a1 of 65
hard 4c0 of 65
4c0 of 65
easy 4c0 of 65
3 Stars2 of 61
2 Stars45 of 61
1 Star13 of 61
0 Stars1 of 61
Bag of .....0 of 61
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 339 (1.5%)
Lead194 of 339 (57.2%)
Followed102 of 339 (30.1%)
Toproped4 of 339 (1.2%)
Alt Leads12 of 339 (3.5%)
Unknown22 of 339 (6.5%)

'Climbed'140 of 339 (41.3%)
clean O/S138 of 339 (40.7%)
clean β4 of 339 (1.2%)
clean rpt48 of 339 (14.2%)
clean RP1 of 339 (0.3%)
dogged6 of 339 (1.8%)
dnf2 of 339 (0.6%)