Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Wee Doris*** E4 5c

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[Eric points out the non-polished hold on Wee Doris., 2 kb]An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit reachy and bold. At the break, chuck in a few fat runners and sprint to the top before your arms fade, and the air welcomes you. The wall to the left is Big Boris, E5 6a but a crucial bolt is missing. © ROCKFAX
FA. T.Proctor, C.Winfield (rests) 1967. FFA. A.Rouse 1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock.

Photo: Eric points out the non-polished hold on Wee Doris. © Patrick Daniel
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 152 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13

mark20 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13

Great onsight by mark
loundsy - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/13 with the boy wonder

liam - Lead rpt - 26/Apr/13 with Jack

man that's pumpy, non of the moves are all that hard, but they are all hard enough.
jwpil - 2nd dog - 26/Apr/13 with liam

Fell off really high onsight
Apharri - Lead RP - 25/Apr/13 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

bullybones - 2nd - 15/Apr/13

Got hideously pumped on this, thought I was going to fall off topping out!
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

Sketchy move at the start, hard to do without risking slapping to a bad hold. Just steep and pumpy to finish, didn't spot the big jug pocket though till I'd spent ages faffing about on rubbish holds fiddling in wires... Great route, proper stoney classic.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

First go today after failing last time, was hot in the sun but just stuck with it :-)
loundsy - Lead RP - 05/Sep/12

on Tim's gear
belay bunny turned bad - Lead β - 05/Sep/12 with loundsy

nai - 2nd β - 09/Aug/12 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

Fell off top wall, missed a huge left hand hold which would have helped, next time.
loundsy - Lead dog - 27/Jul/12 with Simon shaw

Hidden - TR - 11/Jul/12

Got crux second go. Got my foot in the break at the roof
Cake - TR dnf - 04/Jul/12

mwatson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12

slimy, muddy and wet - glad not to have blown it!
J.Wells - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Mark Rankine

Over top-roped (x4) for training purposes. Good route for Stoney, great moves.
Bart Shaw - TR - 30/May/12 with Jon

liam - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Mark R

Marti999 - Lead β - 20/Mar/12 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Marti

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Feb/12

Bob - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

dav - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Gill B

Hannes B - Lead β - 09/Aug/11 with Phil

bigdrew - 2nd rpt - 07/Aug/11 with Ian Milward

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/11

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

At last - lead clean!
miastacey - Lead RP - Jul/11 with Bob Smith

steve_yo - Lead - Jul/11 with steve f

alaan - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

Had been wanting to do this for a while and got a proper kicking. Felt a bit tired after Medusa and Windhover (mostly Medusa actually) but doubt I would have got a clean ascent even if I had been fresh. Clean to the break, then had to have four rests and also took a sizeable fall from high up on the head wall (foot was in the pocket). Glad I got a good nut in the crack on the head wall! Goes straight on the list of routes to repeat clean. E4 5c seems right - no hard moves but not much below 5c either, plus run out where it matters (though it's not an E4 5c run out - the E is for Effort). Unfortunately Mike didn't have time to second before we had to go over to the Moon for Ian's birthday meal. Should put this as 'led with falls' but just put 'lead' so it would count for Extreme Rock ticklist!
Misha - Lead - 18/Jun/11 with Mike T

akhughes - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd dog - 05/Apr/11 with Adam Hughes

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Couldn't touch it last year, so really glad to have done it. Really good route, just don't hang about on it!
smudge - Lead RP - 30/Sep/10 with Will Kelsall

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/10 with daniel lee

Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Theeni - TR dog - Aug/10 with Jon Leighton

first e4 ive tried, not disappointed that i didnt do it as ive not even climbed e3 on limestone yet. more disappointed that i didnt keep a cool head on so i was just a being a fag. excited to get back on it in the near future though, the moves are definitely within my reach!
Bill Lawrence - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/10 with Guy VG

Sweet route! Could reach past the lower run-out crux. Pulled over the roof and completely got absorbed in the climbing - forgot to put any gear in the bomber crack, and found myself at the break mega runout. Just popped some gear low beneath me and nipped on up, brilliant bit of added spice!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with alex mason

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Jul/10

TonyF - 2010

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 2010

Pumpy, polished and greasy. Pretty fookin awesome tho!
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Alex

Awsome route, crazy mantle at the top aswell, WOOOP
Bennykr - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Alex mason

Couldnt resist doing this again. Always fun, juggy.
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 31/Oct/09 with Rich Cannell, Ben R

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09 with jon redshaw

On Andys gear (so essentially a solo ;D )
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/09 with Steve R & Andy G

supurb climbing all the way exiting start brilliant finsh.
andy gravestock - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with steve,allex

Belier - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/09 with al m & andy g

fell off after a full day of pumped-ness. Came back the next day and found it quite soft.
Franco Cookson OLD - Lead - Jun/09 with David Warburton

tuftynick - Lead rpt - Jun/09 with rich cross

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/09

madmats - TR RP - 09/May/09 with PeakDJ

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/09 with Ben Pritchard

Kevin Avery - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/09 with Jack and Mick

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/09

philhilo - 2nd - 2009 with brian rodgers

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Had seconded this clean in 2007. Took a pisser off the top wall this time but lowered off, pulled the ropes and did it next go. Pretty pumpy.
Andrew Barker - Lead - Jul/08 with Chunk

morganator - 2nd - 04/Jun/08 with Andy Benson

Wow! that first bit of gear is a little scary!
skygodley - Lead O/S - 26/May/08

Brown - Lead RP - 20/May/08 with Henry

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

JulesV - Lead rpt - 2008 with joe bawden

tuftynick - 2008

Cool route, juggy but pumpy with bomber gear, and a tricky pop at the start! :)
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/07 with Andrew Barker

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 17/May/07 with Nic Sellers

Whitt - TR - 08/Apr/07 with (Shunted)

Toby Dunn - 2007

Gus - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/06 with stadders

Carl Smethurst - TR - 18/Jun/06 with Ian Pickles

Had to do start dynamically which was exciting. Involuntarily cut loose at one stage thanks to the polish. Got cack-handed past the little roof/break and found swapping hands on the good pinch hold tough. All very memorable and exciting. Great pitch.
Belier - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06 with Alex

Boy - 2006

Dave Bond - Lead β - 09/Oct/05 with Tim Banton

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/05 with Nic Sellers

shark - Lead rpt - 11/Dec/04 with Mark Hundleby

Via the indirect start with the crack on the right, as there was some confusion in the guidebooks about which was the correct line. Desperately pumped for all the upper wall, but somehow hung around for ages placing lots of gear.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead RP - Aug/04 with Chesterfield Steve

Full marks for effort, but not quite enough! Wrong handed myself at the crux, pumped out of my mind and threw for a rubbish hold in desperation - took quite a whipper! :)
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead dog - Jun/04 with Chesterfield Steve

Nick Smith - UKC - TR - May/01 with Jane

Hidden - 2000

Carl Smethurst - TR - 29/May/99 with Ian Pickles

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/99 with James Ibbertson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/99

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 12/Sep/98 with Chris Barnes

ChrisJD - Lead - 18/Jul/98 with AlB

craig h - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/96

craig h - TR rpt - 11/Aug/96 with Shunted

Roget - Lead O/S - 31/May/93

robyn1 - 1993

Cowflinger - 12/Apr/92 with Andy Sharp

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Billg - Lead O/S - 1992

leathers - TR - 22/Mar/91

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/91

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Nick Rundall - 2nd dog - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/88 with Chris Rees

Hidden - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

David Smith - 2nd - Nov/86 with Al Bennett

Hidden - Lead - 19/Oct/86

keefe - 03/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams

shark - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/86 with Phil Loasby

sadams - Lead - 30/Jul/85 with Robin Curley

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/85

third attempt in two years
sadams - Lead - 19/May/85 with John from London

Hidden - Lead - 1985

sadams - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/84 with Pete Herrod

sadams - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/84 with Pete Herrod

Dave Musgrove - 23/May/84 with Kim Greenald

Mike Owen - 20/Mar/83 with Joe Healey

Gezzer - 2nd - 1983 with Andy Towne

andy gittins - 1983

Mark Kemball - TR - 28/Nov/82

DPaul - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/82 with s.brown

After several attempts. Why was it ever graded E3?
Ian Jones - Lead RP - Jun/82 with Neil Molnar (Noddy)

Hidden - Lead β - Oct/80

Mark Kemball - Lead - 31/May/80 with Steve Finch

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1979

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Lead with encouragement from Allen & Bancroft to the accompaniment of 'Apocalypse in 9/8' by Genesis. Needless to say I used the standard (at that time) 2 resting points, including the best MOAC in the world. John followed in bare feet, if I remember right.
petemeads - Lead - Aug/77 with John Allen

rogerskews - TR - 1976 with Dane Atkins

Hidden - 1973

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Voting
Total votes cast 134
hard E50 of 45
E50 of 45
easy E50 of 45
hard E46 of 45
E428 of 45
easy E46 of 45
hard E35 of 45
E30 of 45
easy E30 of 45
hard 6a0 of 47
6a0 of 47
easy 6a2 of 47
hard 5c26 of 47
5c15 of 47
easy 5c2 of 47
hard 5b2 of 47
5b0 of 47
easy 5b0 of 47
3 Stars37 of 42
2 Stars4 of 42
1 Star1 of 42
0 Stars0 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
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Style of ascent

Lead91 of 152 (59.9%)
Followed19 of 152 (12.5%)
Toproped14 of 152 (9.2%)
Alt Leads2 of 152 (1.3%)
Unknown26 of 152 (17.1%)

'Climbed'62 of 152 (40.8%)
clean O/S45 of 152 (29.6%)
clean β7 of 152 (4.6%)
clean rpt18 of 152 (11.8%)
clean RP8 of 152 (5.3%)
dogged7 of 152 (4.6%)
dnf5 of 152 (3.3%)