Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Wee Doris*** E4 5c

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[Eric points out the non-polished hold on Wee Doris., 2 kb]An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit reachy and bold. At the break, chuck in a few fat runners and sprint to the top before your arms fade, and the air welcomes you. The wall to the left is Big Boris, E5 6a but a crucial bolt is missing. © ROCKFAX
FA. T.Proctor, C.Winfield (rests) 1967. FFA. A.Rouse 1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Eric points out the non-polished hold on Wee Doris. © Patrick Daniel
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 176 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14

Lead after Tim. Some nice moves.
Rachel Slater - Lead β - 07/Jul/14 with Tim Newton

tim newton - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/14 with rachel slater

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Rosh

Three years almost to the day since I dogged this last time. Felt steady this time round, still fairly tough getting onto and up the headwall but nothing desperate. Started climbing quickly as didn't have a lot of daylight left (actually finished at 9.40pm so still a good half hour left!) and a foot popped off a polished hold quite high up but below the first gear, held on but carried on with more care! Great route but the uber polish is a bit annoying. Six bits of gear including two in the break - that's plenty, no need for a large rack! Felt more like E3 this time. Evening session, escaped the midges at Chatsworth in the hope Stoney would be fine but it was still fairly midgy, worst I've ever had on limestone. Eszter didn't second as too tired after climbing the day before.
Misha - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Eszter

Training fun with Mark. Great route, must get better at jamming though!
Nick Sherring - TR - 08/Jun/14 with Paul Borland

Training day. Fun moves
psborland - TR - 08/Jun/14

Hidden - TR rpt - 14/May/14

Oh dear. Found the boulder problem ok then got a bit gripped about the gear, got some in pushed on but got really pumped at the break. got a high wire but messed it up trying to get from the break, fell off and lowered off - had failed before I even started mentally. Will be back to finish this off.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead dnf - 13/Apr/14 with Bubbles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

felt harder than lead, few more times for fun, love it.
GuyVG - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/14 with Ben the rollerblader

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/14

Felt pretty steady. Nice moves above break.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - Apr/14

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/13

far from onsight but almost a flash, had bouldered around on the start last week and when Billy tried it but never popped for the ledge, first go when roped up with beta from Mark. Really really good climbing, flows like the best of 'em
GuyVG - Lead - 24/Jun/13 with Minus Ten Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/13

mark20 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Apr/13

man that's pumpy, non of the moves are all that hard, but they are all hard enough.
jwpil - 2nd dog - 26/Apr/13 with liam

Fell off really high onsight
Apharri - Lead RP - 25/Apr/13 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Apr/13

friendly !
mgeek - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Neill Busby

bullybones - 2nd - 15/Apr/13

Seymore Butt - 2013

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Got hideously pumped on this, thought I was going to fall off topping out!
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

Sketchy move at the start, hard to do without risking slapping to a bad hold. Just steep and pumpy to finish, didn't spot the big jug pocket though till I'd spent ages faffing about on rubbish holds fiddling in wires... Great route, proper stoney classic.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Sep/12

on Tim's gear
belay bunny turned bad - Lead β - 05/Sep/12 with loundsy

nai - 2nd β - 09/Aug/12 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jul/12

Hidden - TR - 11/Jul/12

Got crux second go. Got my foot in the break at the roof
Cake - TR dnf - 04/Jul/12

mwatson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12

slimy, muddy and wet - glad not to have blown it!
J.Wells - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Mark Rankine

Hidden - TR - 30/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12

Marti999 - Lead β - 20/Mar/12 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Marti

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Feb/12

Bob - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

dav - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Gill B

Hannes B - Lead β - 09/Aug/11 with Phil

bigdrew - 2nd rpt - 07/Aug/11 with Ian Milward

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/11

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

At last - lead clean!
miastacey - Lead RP - Jul/11 with Bob Smith

steve_yo - Lead - Jul/11 with steve f

alaan - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

Had been wanting to do this for a while and got a proper kicking. Felt a bit tired after Medusa and Windhover (mostly Medusa actually) but doubt I would have got a clean ascent even if I had been fresh. Clean to the break, then had to have four rests and also took a sizeable fall from high up on the head wall (foot was in the pocket). Glad I got a good nut in the crack on the head wall! Goes straight on the list of routes to repeat clean. E4 5c seems right - no hard moves but not much below 5c either, plus run out where it matters (though it's not an E4 5c run out - the E is for Effort). Unfortunately Mike didn't have time to second before we had to go over to the Moon for Ian's birthday meal.
Misha - Lead dog - 18/Jun/11 with Mike T

akhughes - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd dog - 05/Apr/11 with Adam Hughes

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Couldn't touch it last year, so really glad to have done it. Really good route, just don't hang about on it!
smudge - Lead RP - 30/Sep/10 with Will Kelsall

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/10 with daniel lee

Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Theeni - TR dog - Aug/10 with Jon Leighton

first e4 ive tried, not disappointed that i didnt do it as ive not even climbed e3 on limestone yet. more disappointed that i didnt keep a cool head on so i was just a being a fag. excited to get back on it in the near future though, the moves are definitely within my reach!
Bill Lawrence - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/10 with Guy VG

Sweet route! Could reach past the lower run-out crux. Pulled over the roof and completely got absorbed in the climbing - forgot to put any gear in the bomber crack, and found myself at the break mega runout. Just popped some gear low beneath me and nipped on up, brilliant bit of added spice!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with alex mason

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Jul/10

TonyF - 2010

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 2010

Pumpy, polished and greasy. Pretty fookin awesome tho!
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Alex

Awsome route, crazy mantle at the top aswell, WOOOP
Bennykr - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Alex mason

Couldnt resist doing this again. Always fun, juggy.
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 31/Oct/09 with Rich Cannell, Ben R

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09 with jon redshaw

On Andys gear (so essentially a solo ;D )
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/09 with Steve R & Andy G

supurb climbing all the way exiting start brilliant finsh.
andy gravestock - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with steve,allex

Ram MkiV - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/09 with al m & andy g

fell off after a full day of pumped-ness. Came back the next day and found it quite soft.
Franco Cookson OLD - Lead - Jun/09 with David Warburton

tuftynick - Lead rpt - Jun/09 with rich cross

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/09

Hidden - TR RP - 09/May/09

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/09 with Ben Pritchard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/09

philhilo - 2nd - 2009 with brian rodgers

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Had seconded this clean in 2007. Took a pisser off the top wall this time but lowered off, pulled the ropes and did it next go. Pretty pumpy.
Andrew Barker - Lead - Jul/08 with Chunk

morganator - 2nd - 04/Jun/08 with Andy Benson

Wow! that first bit of gear is a little scary!
skygodley - Lead O/S - 26/May/08

Brown - Lead RP - 20/May/08 with Henry

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

JulesV - Lead rpt - 2008 with joe bawden

tuftynick - 2008

Cool route, juggy but pumpy with bomber gear, and a tricky pop at the start! :)
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/07 with Andrew Barker

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 17/May/07 with Nic Sellers

Whitt - TR - 08/Apr/07 with (Shunted)

Toby Dunn - 2007

Gus - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/06 with stadders

Carl Smethurst - TR - 18/Jun/06 with Ian Pickles

Had to do start dynamically which was exciting. Involuntarily cut loose at one stage thanks to the polish. Got cack-handed past the little roof/break and found swapping hands on the good pinch hold tough. All very memorable and exciting. Great pitch.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06 with Alex

Boy - 2006

Dave Bond - Lead β - 09/Oct/05 with Tim Banton

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/05 with Nic Sellers

shark - Lead rpt - 11/Dec/04 with Mark Hundleby

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/04

Hidden - TR - May/01

Hidden - 2000

Carl Smethurst - TR - 29/May/99 with Ian Pickles

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/99 with James Ibbertson

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/99 with Paul Tanton

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 12/Sep/98 with Chris Barnes

ChrisJD - Lead - 18/Jul/98 with AlB

craig h - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/96

craig h - TR rpt - 11/Aug/96 with Shunted

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/93 with Alan Holden

Roget - Lead O/S - 31/May/93 with jon

robyn1 - 1993

Cowflinger - 12/Apr/92 with Andy Sharp

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Billg - Lead O/S - 1992

leathers - TR - 22/Mar/91

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/91

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Nick Rundall - 2nd dog - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/88

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/87

Hidden - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead - 1987

David Smith - 2nd - Nov/86 with Al Bennett

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 19/Oct/86 with Sandra Graham

keefe - 03/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams

shark - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/86 with Phil Loasby

rob.grafton - AltLd - 1986 with barry maybank

sadams - Lead - 30/Jul/85 with Robin Curley

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/85

third attempt in two years
sadams - Lead - 19/May/85 with John from London

Hidden - Lead - 1985

sadams - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/84 with Pete Herrod

sadams - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/84 with Pete Herrod

Dave Musgrove - 23/May/84 with Kim Greenald

Mike Owen - 20/Mar/83 with Joe Healey

Gezzer - 2nd - 1983 with Andy Towne

andy gittins - 1983

Mark Kemball - TR - 28/Nov/82

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/82

After several attempts. Why was it ever graded E3?
Ian Jones - Lead RP - Jun/82 with Neil Molnar (Noddy)

Hidden - Lead β - Oct/80

Mark Kemball - Lead - 31/May/80 with Steve Finch

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1979

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Lead with encouragement from Allen & Bancroft to the accompaniment of 'Apocalypse in 9/8' by Genesis. Needless to say I used the standard (at that time) 2 resting points, including the best MOAC in the world. John followed in bare feet, if I remember right.
petemeads - Lead - Aug/77 with John Allen

rogerskews - TR - 1976 with Dane Atkins

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RFWilkie, Hidden, Si dH, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Katy Nelson, Bill Lawrence, DavidR, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 144
hard E50 of 49
E50 of 49
easy E50 of 49
hard E46 of 49
E430 of 49
easy E47 of 49
hard E35 of 49
E31 of 49
easy E30 of 49
hard 6a0 of 51
6a0 of 51
easy 6a2 of 51
hard 5c27 of 51
5c18 of 51
easy 5c2 of 51
hard 5b2 of 51
5b0 of 51
easy 5b0 of 51
3 Stars39 of 44
2 Stars4 of 44
1 Star1 of 44
0 Stars0 of 44
Bag of .....0 of 44
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Style of ascent

Lead105 of 176 (59.7%)
Followed22 of 176 (12.5%)
Toproped17 of 176 (9.7%)
Alt Leads3 of 176 (1.7%)
Unknown29 of 176 (16.5%)

'Climbed'72 of 176 (40.9%)
clean O/S52 of 176 (29.5%)
clean β8 of 176 (4.5%)
clean rpt21 of 176 (11.9%)
clean RP8 of 176 (4.5%)
dogged9 of 176 (5.1%)
dnf6 of 176 (3.4%)