Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Medusa** E1 5b

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Gesemini original >>
[the butter showing his worth, 3 kb]The wide crack is an intimidating struggle for most. Big gear, big arms and a strong will to succeed will help get you up it. Hidden holds in the crack are a great help too. © ROCKFAX
FA. L.Millsom, M.Rainey 1961

Ticklists: Wide Cracks, World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish.

Photo: the butter showing his worth © bigdave6ft5
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 159 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Matt Cooke - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/14 with Jack Hodgson

Jack.H.92 - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/14 with matt cooke

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - Lead dog - 12/Jul/14 with Rachel Slater

Ed had a right battle leading this one. Still a bit brutal in places to second! Polished but a great route.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Ed, Phil

Burly steep hand jamming with slippery feet, hard work.
philhilo - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Ed Shaw, misha

Exhausting work for a warm up! Couple of rests...
eduardo - Lead dog - 30/Jun/14

Climbed up climbed down haha fuck
the power - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/14 with Andy

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Tim Gould, Nick Conway

Derek Furze - 2nd - 02/Apr/14 with Paul Mitchell

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/14

James Oakes - 2nd rpt - 30/Mar/14 with Tim Newton

tim newton - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with james oakes

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/14 with andy gardner

Five years after first atempt and this went ok today:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 11/Mar/14 with Hayden Jones

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Finally! The right choice for warming-up, as this route is expectedly physical for the whole body! HVS 5a/5b? Good route :-)
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Simon P

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Broome

Hard and grim... didn't enjoy this!
Ian Broome - 2nd β - 12/Jul/13 with Chris

Nails! Although power screams do help. Pumped solid and just scraped over the top. Harder than Dead Banana Crack?
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/13

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Rob Cooper, Brad Cowley

braders94 - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/13 with Rob Cooper, James Oakes

Hidden - 2nd - 07/May/13

Apharri - 2nd β - 02/May/13 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Apr/13

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Rosh

Brutal. That or I'm shit.........
Calder - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12

Howard Lawledge - 18/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Jul/12

Quite the fight!
Dafydd Llywelyn - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Alex Minshall, Jamie

To get up this I employed a combination of cursing and foul language. Found the jams a bit shit.
cookacat - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/12 with jamie s, Dafydd

pretty good jams all the way up, but it was little bit dark (after 2200) so face holds were a little tricky to spot. bit grubby in the back of the crack but nothing too unpleasant. great route :)
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/12 with alex minshall, Daf

Gus - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

Rest on gear at overlap.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 17/Jun/12 with Chris

timmyhobby - Lead - 21/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

a little tough that
Hannes B - Lead dog - 20/Aug/11 with Emlyn

Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/11 with Chris

bigdrew - Lead dog - 07/Aug/11 with Ian Milward

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Gary Jackson

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 28/Jul/11 with Dave

I thought i could climb e1, i thought i could jam. damn this was hard.
catblack - 2nd dog - 19/Jul/11 with Si

Excellent crack climbing, a bit burly in places and stiff for E1. One of the best grit jamming cracks is actually not on grit! Grond on the Cromlech is another one like that.
Misha - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Mike T

Mowglee - AltLd dog - 28/May/11 with Tom Nichols

a traditional climb for sure, wide cracks are not my thing and neither is dogging my way up routes so when i slumped onto gear i just lowered off. One to get back on when my jamming has improved!
Dan Lane - Lead dnf - 22/May/11 with Laurie Carefoot

Tough, rested just before the wide crack. Pumped silly at the top and ran out of decent gear. Ace.
JRae - Lead dog - 16/May/11 with P Latham

alasdair19 - 2011

cymjt - 2011

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 15/Oct/10 with Cocky

So pumped I was nearly sick
mark20 - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Hidden - 06/Sep/10

And Hannah. felt very hard for E1
migs493 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Haydn

haydng - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Mike, Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/10

Rested. Rested. Fell off. Fell off. Then found the jug in the crack!
metal arms - Lead dog - 24/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Jun/10

mega pumpy and quite sustained at E1!! despite good gear and holds all the way. Was way harder than Minus Ten that we climbed in mistake for this before hand!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Thomas Dixon

Nails, but very good fun.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Graeme

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10

What a bastard! Had to fight like fuck. Some proper dodgy manoevers required, right to the final topout.
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Phil Jennings - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with James Moneypenny

TonyF - 2010

Felt like the hardest E1 in the country...especially if you're weak like me.
farmus21 - Lead - 31/Oct/09 with Tom 'Slippery Jack' Pienkowski

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09 with jon redshaw

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Craig Devonshire

Hidden - 20/Jun/09

Very good, very hard.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Steve R & Andy G

found extremly challenging and nearly fell off due to climbing like a punter. bad times good route battled it to the end though.
andy gravestock - Lead β - 16/Jun/09 with allex steve

Ram MkiV - Lead β - 16/Jun/09 with al m & andy g

tuftynick - 2nd rpt - May/09 with miles gibson

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/09 with Ben Pritchard

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Mar/09

A proper hard-work E1. Would be much easier if it was made of grit :)
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Neil Furniss

completley frigd this one up by triying to rest on the shelf to the left of the crake and it just got wers from ther!! Next time
Andy Peak 1 - Lead dog - 2009 with liebor

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2009 with OffshoreAndy

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Oct/08

Mr Wild - 2nd - 20/Jul/08 with Greg

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/08

Pumpy.
butterworthtom - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Dave Naylor

HVS 5b? nice route anyway with some of the best Hex placements around, didn't bother taking any cams. Backed off couple of other routes due to rain.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 29/May/08

TomHaigh - 2nd dog - 05/May/08 with Fraser

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

chris j - Lead dog - 30/Sep/07 with Doug

jl - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/07 with Brad

doug s - Lead - 03/Jun/07 with mike

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2007 with aiden

mattyork2 - Lead β - 15/Oct/06 with dave and pete

Nicos - Solo O/S - 15/Jul/06 with danny carden

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/05 with Tim Banton

nige - Lead - 07/May/05 with colin struthers

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jun/04

cem - 2nd dog - 11/Mar/01 with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000 with Dave

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 31/Oct/99 with Ian Pickles

ChrisJD - Lead - 14/Jun/97 with TimSp

tlr - 2nd - 18/Nov/96 with Andy M

rained off at wilton
Roget - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/96 with jon

Fell from top pulled down a tv sized block which missed Simon by a few feet.
Colin Edwards - Lead dog - 08/Feb/96 with Steve Trewella, Simon Gough Brown

offwidth slimy horror
Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - Nov/95

leadmat - Feb/95

leadmat - Lead - Feb/95

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/93

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/93 with Neil McCallum

Roget - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/93 with colin, baccy

leathers - 2nd - 21/Apr/91 with James Thomas

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/91

babymoac - Lead - 04/Nov/90 with Angus

kato'sdad - Lead - 13/Oct/90 with Jerry Mattinson

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/90

possibly lead at some point (and failed to follow as well!)
Nick Rundall - 2nd O/S - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Feb/89

surfbish - Lead O/S - Feb/88

Hidden - 1988

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Jul/87 with Mick Falzon

Hidden - 1987

simon parish - Lead - 1987 with Andrew Taylor

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/86

Steve Lenartowicz - 1985

shark - Lead dog - 21/Jun/84 with Tim & Andy

Ian Clare - 1984

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Mar/83 with Andy Wild

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Derek Shaw

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/82

Hammy - 2nd - 20/Jun/81 with Rob Lawson

Hidden - Lead - 08/Mar/81

ewar woowar - 1981

Hidden - Jun/80

Hidden - Lead - Mar/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

David Smith - Lead - 02/Dec/79 with Al Bennett

Nigel Bond - Lead - 05/May/79 with Andy Brown

Hidden - 1979

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Hidden - 09/Jun/77

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/77

Mark Kemball - Lead - 15/Oct/75 with Ian Grace

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1974

The tree was still in situ
mikej - Lead - 22/Apr/69 with Bill Church

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hirving, richardw87, Leo Woodhead, Hidden, mapperley samurai, masa-alpin, Hidden, Michael Hood, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 126
hard E20 of 46
E20 of 46
easy E21 of 46
hard E127 of 46
E19 of 46
easy E13 of 46
hard HVS6 of 46
HVS0 of 46
easy HVS0 of 46
hard 5c0 of 41
5c0 of 41
easy 5c1 of 41
hard 5b14 of 41
5b21 of 41
easy 5b4 of 41
hard 5a1 of 41
5a0 of 41
easy 5a0 of 41
3 Stars10 of 39
2 Stars20 of 39
1 Star8 of 39
0 Stars1 of 39
Bag of .....0 of 39
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 159 (0.6%)
Lead94 of 159 (59.1%)
Followed40 of 159 (25.2%)
Alt Leads3 of 159 (1.9%)
Unknown21 of 159 (13.2%)

'Climbed'59 of 159 (37.1%)
clean O/S61 of 159 (38.4%)
clean β5 of 159 (3.1%)
clean rpt5 of 159 (3.1%)
clean RP1 of 159 (0.6%)
dogged23 of 159 (14.5%)
dnf5 of 159 (3.1%)