Rockfax Description
The very polished curving crack and arete. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Moore, Geoff Birtles 1964

Ticklists: 50 cracks to Squamish.

Hidden 08/Oct Lead
Lukem6 30/Sep 2nd O/S
with Elliot
rurp 22/Sep Lead O/S

pumpy and slippy for a few feet. hard work

Andrew Sloan 12/Sep Lead dog

Despite heavy drizzle starting half way up I actually managed for the first time to pull cleanly through the crux only to fall after pulling off a loose hold. Will I ever get this clean?!!! Despite being 3ft above my gear I took a 20 footer; Martin assured me that these things happen! Pulled my left biceps in the process.... 2 injuries in the space of 2 weeks. I've always thought this was a sandbag at HVS 5a.

with John Brannock, Martin Haworth
Jono_LS16 06/Sep Lead O/S
Rob Jarratt 02/Aug 2nd

Found it harder than I expected, nice route though.

with Bill McKee
Happy Wanderer 18/Jul 2nd dog
with Ed, Mark H
eduardo 18/Jul 2nd rpt

'Ard for HVS, isn't it!

with Mark H
Tom_Shill 04/Jul Lead
Andy Peak 1 08/Jun Lead O/S

Ha comedy loved the jamming and the heal hook:-) slippy hard and wonderful!

Antonio Ferra ?/Jun 2nd β
with Ellis
JEP 12/May Lead rpt
ashtond6 24/Apr Lead O/S

What a horrible yet awesome route, every cam placement skids around pointlessly, felt more like E2 5b due to this!

Stoney Boy 22/Apr Lead rpt
with Phil Cundy
Whitmoreaa ??/2015 -

Very, very polished, was a bit damp, so after rob took a massive whipper, I pretty much cried my way up. But somehow liked it

with Rob Rendle
Canyak ??/2015 -
irishguyinlondon 09/Nov/14 2nd dog

Polished jamming with wet cracks & difficult to place gear around the crux jams

with roo finlayson
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
louby 27/Sep/14 Lead dog

Intro to stoney, not v stylish

chris_B 27/Sep/14 2nd
admackie 07/Jul/14 Lead O/S
treg 29/Jun/14 2nd
Guy Atkinson 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

My second ever limestone trad lead, knew it was going to be a battle, all the gear in the bottom 8 metres or so is terrible and facing the wrong direction and there's no point putting cams in as they'd rip out. Took a very long time deciding if I wanted to embark up into the vertical section of the crack and eventually placed 2 bommer hexes, which I subsequently fell onto when I pumped out because i'd taken so long faffing trying to place gear that might stop me from hitting the ground, pretty painful jams because it's so polished, footholds on the crux are awful. Other than that a decent and enjoyable route despite the effort it took to get up.

JWB 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Lyness
jon_gill1 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with chris Lyness, john beardmore
James Oakes 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
tim newton 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

fell off bitterfingers, so did this instead to get to the top. Quite polished, but maybe better for it as it forces you to jam it better

Jules Lane 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Strenuous for 3 or 4 moves. Good lead by James.

spragglerocks 23/Mar/14 Lead dog
Lumbering Oaf 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hoyes 23/Mar/14 Lead dog
Derek Furze 07/Mar/14 -
Maddie 23/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Wussed out because it was wet and didnt trust the polished damp footholds at all

with spenser
keith leonard ??/2014 -
Palindrome 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
helenstuart 18/Aug/13 Lead dog

Polished polished polished

with Mike
Hidden 06/Aug/13 2nd
Hannes B 30/Jul/13 Lead
with Phil
shouter 21/Jul/13 Lead
quickdrawmcraw 18/Jul/13 2nd
with alexander
Rockwarrior 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Matthew Crowford
jamie ward 08/Jul/13 2nd
with Shaun Lake
deacondeacon 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
the power 22/Jun/13 2nd dog

dragged up like a haul sack

with deacon
Nick Sillem 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead
Jenny Clarke ?/Jun/13 2nd
with dave
matiamallia 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Apharri 25/Apr/13 2nd β
with Dave Wharton
mapperley samurai 20/Apr/13 2nd
Double Knee Bar 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
willackers ??/2013 -
samt ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
Hidden 21/Oct/12 2nd
Haydn Jones 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S

at night with head torch.

with pep
petellis 01/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Sloth
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 27/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Marc Weisner
mrginna 10/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Neil, Ben Pinches
Hardcore Pat 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Sir William of pettitsmith
Graeme Hammond 24/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
chrism225 09/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead dog
Karl Wooffindin 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route. Enjoyed the moves on the crack particularly

with Bryce Rigler
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
bigdrew 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nothing wrong with this route. Really enjoyed it despite the horror stories I've heard..

CRiddiford 14/Aug/11 Lead

on andy's gear, suprisingly fun!

with Andy, Mark
Mr. K 07/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Mr. K 07/Aug/11 2nd rpt
James Oswald 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Lead after Kyle retreated. Really hard for HVS, brutal! I actually enjoyed it. A medium cam was useful for protecting the move into the groove. Nice route.. Kind of

IAmAStone 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Charlie Jefferson
Joe Costello 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Matt
mattwyles1 12/Jul/11 Lead dog

Use the arete you fool, it even says so in the guide.

with Joe
rikbattye 30/Jun/11 Lead rpt

in the dark with headtorches!!! and its bloody hard in the daylight!!

mark20 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Led it so I never have to do it again - grim

J.Wells 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
davewsargent 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with andy
Matt Fry 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Garry Jackson
Luke Brooks 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 01/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Ian Holtby
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
LisaA 09/Oct/10 Lead dog

outragously soggy sandbag. Alistair not happy.

richardhopton 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Matt Thombs
JEP 10/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
max_chan 05/Aug/10 2nd RP

Got very pumped and very spooked on this - polished. Lowered off and Steve lead it.

with Steve Carty
Graeme Hammond 05/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
richardhopton 02/Aug/10 Lead
with Martin Cleaver
Stuart_Burbidge 02/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Martin Cleaver
Graeme Hammond 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt

still felt technically soft for the grade with perfect jams, good mind.

with Jim
dan gibson 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Graeme Hammond 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S

thought this was really nice and well worth a star if not 2. One to come back and lead and see if it still feels soft at HVS as it did on 2nd

with Rob
Ketu 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/10 Lead O/S
Guy Atkinson 21/May/10 2nd dog
Oliver Houston 21/May/10 Lead dog

Limestone is pumpy and Im unfit :(... 1st time I ripped a cam aswell

Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead rpt
Birdo 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Daniel Wicks
mark20 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S


Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ollie B 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with J.Monypenny
Tithe Technique 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf

A nice warm up HVS... well.. until I got too pumped and fell onto a tricam... My first fall onto gear.. Tricams are my new best friend... I love you tricam...

chumleywarner 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf

so hard

metal arms 13/Mar/10 Lead
TonyF ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
dan gibson 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Andrew Sloan 25/Oct/09 Lead dog

Dogged it again!

howlingbaboon 11/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Ady
Hidden 11/Oct/09 2nd
greenclimb 04/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 27/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Neil and Chris
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Brian Rodgers 19/Sep/09 2nd
Mike Todd 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/09 2nd
Adam Potter 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
nathanlee ?/Jul/09 2nd β
cem 21/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Pete Horn
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 17/Apr/09 Lead dog

If you're no good at hand jamming, you'll get spat off this like I did today!

with Steve Grove
kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead rpt
greenclimb 11/Oct/08 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Harry Thorpe 08/Oct/08 2nd dog

Hard and polished

with Kieran
lukea 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

polished, wet and loose. perfect.

with sam
roberto18 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Mr Wild 20/Jul/08 Lead
with Greg
Hidden 09/May/08 2nd O/S
TomHaigh 09/May/08 Lead O/S
with Paul Winders
Hidden 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Jim Slater 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead β
Hidden 22/Aug/07 Lead dog
Glynn ?/Aug/07 2nd

Bloody 5a fat lad strugles makes grunts and other unexplainable noises pushes for the top to see exhausted belayer in rapti=ures of laughter. Bloody good route and worth the 5a. Can we trim back the trees ?

with Neil
Neil Adams 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Andre & Adrian
smudge 25/May/07 Lead
with Dom
Hidden 19/May/07 2nd O/S
climber130887 19/May/07 Lead dog
Martin Haworth 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 28/Jan/07 2nd rpt
Peakpdr ??/2007 -
with john
mattyork2 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Si dH 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Didnt have guidebook, just picked htis out as a nice line and guessed the grade perfectly :) Its a bit pumpy and the jamming is painful in places, but a good route - how HVS 5a cracks should be. Beware the lower section especially is polished to a fine sheen!

with Neil Furniss
Nicos 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
cem 26/Feb/06 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead
Sam and will 20/Jul/05 Lead dnf
with Anthony Bennett
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/05 2nd dog
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 04/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Phil West 25/Jan/04 Lead dnf

Too Cold. too Crap.

with Chris Tan
Hidden 06/Nov/03 2nd
Laramadness 09/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with CEB
Brown 19/Jul/01 2nd
Mark Riley ?/May/01 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
cem 11/Mar/01 2nd
with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
Hidden ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Dave, Pete
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 24/Jul/99 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Phill Mitch ??/1999 Lead O/S
with gaz
Chris Ellis 21/Aug/98 Lead
with Johnathan Burgess
FrankW 10/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Unknown
Carl Smethurst ?/Feb/98 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
phardman 12/Oct/97 Lead O/S
colin milton 18/Jul/95 Lead dog
with eric milton
Roget 28/Feb/93 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
Steve Crowe 11/May/92 2nd O/S

Karin led this one.

with KM
Hidden 12/Apr/92 2nd
nai ??/1992 2nd
rob.grafton 27/Oct/91 -
with Bruce
malc 10/Aug/91 Lead
leathers 03/May/91 Lead
with James Thomas
John Marsland 19/May/90 Lead
with Mark
steve prior ?/May/89 Lead
with Rob W
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
Gary Coggon ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S

and Roger James.

with Mike Block
Hidden 01/Oct/87 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Mar/87 2nd


Hidden 03/Jun/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 -
Stoney Boy ??/1986 2nd
with Phil Cundy
babymoac 05/Oct/85 Lead
with MTW
Neil R 24/Jun/85 Lead
with Richard W
sadams 04/Apr/85 Lead
Chris Wright 19/Mar/85 Lead
jcw ??/1985 -

And again March 1995

with Martin Harris
charlesmfrench 24/Nov/84 Lead O/S
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Bulls Crack ??/1983 Lead O/S
with RW
andy gittins ??/1983 -
neilh ?/Apr/82 Lead O/S
with dave croker
Gezzer ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
mark-abz 03/Oct/81 Lead
with Pete T
DPaul 19/Jul/81 Solo O/S
tapley 28/Jun/81 Lead
with Chris Seymour
Chris Terrey 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Nic Robinson ??/1980 AltLd
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Hidden ?/Nov/78 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/77 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/77 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 08/May/76 Lead
with John
Mark Kemball 14/Feb/76 Lead
with Mark Pearce
Hidden 23/May/75 Lead
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1975 2nd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1974 Lead
with Al Bennett
Dave Musgrove 12/Mar/72 Lead
greenbuoy 10/Jul/71 2nd
bob@daysmill ??/1971 2nd β
lump'o'lead ??/1970 -
mikej 10/Nov/68 Lead
with Wil Hurford
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, leoch01, Hidden, PeteWilson, peppermill
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