Fe Fi Fo Fum HVS 5a
[Fe Fi Fo Fum, HVS, Stoney Middleton, 3 kb]20m. The very polished curving crack and arete. © ROCKFAX
FA. Brian Moore, Geoff Birtles 1964

Ticklists: 50 cracks to Squamish.

Photo: Fe Fi Fo Fum, HVS, Stoney Middleton © pete meads
View all 3 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 215 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Polished jamming with wet cracks & difficult to place gear around the crux jams
irishguyinlondon - 2nd dog - 09/Nov/14 with roo finlayson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14

Intro to stoney, not v stylish
louby - Lead dog - 27/Sep/14 with Chris Burn

admackie - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/14

treg - 2nd - 29/Jun/14 with Guy Atkinson

My second ever limestone trad lead, knew it was going to be a battle, all the gear in the bottom 8 metres or so is terrible and facing the wrong direction and there's no point putting cams in as they'd rip out. Took a very long time deciding if I wanted to embark up into the vertical section of the crack and eventually placed 2 bommer hexes, which I subsequently fell onto when I pumped out because i'd taken so long faffing trying to place gear that might stop me from hitting the ground, pretty painful jams because it's so polished, footholds on the crux are awful. Other than that a decent and enjoyable route despite the effort it took to get up.
Guy Atkinson - Lead dog - 29/Jun/14 with Matt Tregellas

JWB - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Chris Lyness

jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with chris Lyness, john beardmore

James Oakes - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Tim Newton

fell off bitterfingers, so did this instead to get to the top. Quite polished, but maybe better for it as it forces you to jam it better
tim newton - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with james oakes

Strenuous for 3 or 4 moves. Good lead by James.
Jules Lane - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/14 with Mynydd James

spragglerocks - Lead dog - 23/Mar/14 with Matt Box

Lumbering Oaf - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/14 with Rachel Spraggs

Hoyes - Lead dog - 23/Mar/14 with Julian L

Derek Furze - 07/Mar/14

Wussed out because it was wet and didnt trust the polished damp footholds at all
Maddie - Lead dnf - 23/Feb/14 with spenser

keith leonard - 2014

Polished polished polished
helenstuart - Lead dog - 18/Aug/13 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Aug/13

Hannes B - Lead - 30/Jul/13 with Phil

shouter - Lead - 21/Jul/13

quickdrawmcraw - 2nd - 18/Jul/13 with alexander

Rockwarrior - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Matthew Crowford

jamie ward - 2nd - 08/Jul/13 with Shaun Lake

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

dragged up like a haul sack
the power - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/13 with deacon

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Ben Clifton

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/13

Jenny Clarke - 2nd - Jun/13 with dave

matiamallia - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with pawelgregorczyk

Apharri - 2nd β - 25/Apr/13 with Dave Wharton

mapperley samurai - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with John Cook

Double Knee Bar - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Blanchie

willackers - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Seymore Butt - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Oct/12

at night with head torch.
Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with pep

petellis - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/12 with Sloth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/12 with Marc Weisner

mrginna - 2nd dog - 10/Aug/12 with Neil, Ben Pinches

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Sir William of pettitsmith

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 24/Jun/12 with Pete Wimbush, Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

chrism225 - Lead O/S - 09/May/12 with Caroline

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/May/12

Lovely route. Enjoyed the moves on the crack particularly
Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Bryce Rigler

Sean Kelly - 2012

Nothing wrong with this route. Really enjoyed it despite the horror stories I've heard..
bigdrew - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Caroline, Mark R

on andy's gear, suprisingly fun!
CRiddiford - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Andy, Mark

Mr. K - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/11 with James Oswald

Mr. K - 2nd rpt - 07/Aug/11 with James Oswald

Lead after Kyle retreated. Really hard for HVS, brutal! I actually enjoyed it. A medium cam was useful for protecting the move into the groove. Nice route.. Kind of
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Kyle Wood

IAmAStone - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Charlie Jefferson

Joe Costello - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Matt

Use the arete you fool, it even says so in the guide.
mattwyles1 - Lead dog - 12/Jul/11 with Joe

in the dark with headtorches!!! and its bloody hard in the daylight!!
rikbattye - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/11

Led it so I never have to do it again - grim
mark20 - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Rankine

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Brian Rogers

davewsargent - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with andy

Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Garry Jackson

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Neil Pope

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 01/Apr/11 with Ian Holtby

alasdair19 - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Oct/10

richardhopton - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/10 with Matt Thombs

JEP - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/10

Got very pumped and very spooked on this - polished. Lowered off and Steve lead it.
max_chan - 2nd RP - 05/Aug/10 with Steve Carty

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Graeme, Phil

richardhopton - Lead - 02/Aug/10 with Martin Cleaver

Stuart_Burbidge - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/10 with Martin Cleaver

still felt technically soft for the grade with perfect jams, good mind.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/10 with Jim

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/10 with jacquie robinson

thought this was really nice and well worth a star if not 2. One to come back and lead and see if it still feels soft at HVS as it did on 2nd
Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Rob

Ketu - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Graeme H

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/10

Guy Atkinson - 2nd dog - 21/May/10 with Ben Dorey

Limestone is pumpy and Im unfit :(... 1st time I ripped a cam aswell
Oliver Houston - Lead dog - 21/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/May/10

Birdo - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Daniel Wicks

Hideous
mark20 - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with J.Monypenny

A nice warm up HVS... well.. until I got too pumped and fell onto a tricam... My first fall onto gear.. Tricams are my new best friend... I love you tricam...
Tithe Technique - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/10 with Steve Fletcher

so hard
chumleywarner - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/10 with Kevin Tithe

metal arms - Lead - 13/Mar/10

TonyF - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 2010

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with anna barnes

Dogged it again!
Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 25/Oct/09

howlingbaboon - Lead dog - 11/Oct/09 with Ady

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Oct/09

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/09 with Neil and Chris

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/09

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 19/Sep/09 with Mike Todd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/09

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/09

nathanlee - 2nd β - Jul/09

cem - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/09 with Pete Horn

slacky - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Nick Taylor

If you're no good at hand jamming, you'll get spat off this like I did today!
Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 17/Apr/09 with Steve Grove

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2009 with OffshoreAndy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Oct/08

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 11/Oct/08 with Sarah

Hard and polished
Harry Thorpe - 2nd dog - 08/Oct/08 with Kieran

polished, wet and loose. perfect.
lukea - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with sam

roberto18 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Mr Wild - Lead - 20/Jul/08 with Greg

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/May/08

TomHaigh - Lead O/S - 09/May/08 with Paul Winders

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Phil

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Aug/07

Bloody 5a fat lad strugles makes grunts and other unexplainable noises pushes for the top to see exhausted belayer in rapti=ures of laughter. Bloody good route and worth the 5a. Can we trim back the trees ?
Glynn - 2nd - Aug/07 with Neil

Neil Adams - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/07 with Andre & Adrian

smudge - Lead - 25/May/07 with Dom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/07

climber130887 - Lead dog - 19/May/07 with dan mathewmann

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/07 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 28/Jan/07

pauldr - 2007 with john

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Pete Ellis

Didnt have guidebook, just picked htis out as a nice line and guessed the grade perfectly :) Its a bit pumpy and the jamming is painful in places, but a good route - how HVS 5a cracks should be. Beware the lower section especially is polished to a fine sheen!
Si dH - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Neil Furniss

Nicos - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06 with danny carden

Hidden - Lead - May/06

cem - Lead dog - 26/Feb/06 with Graham Dolman

ChrisJD - Lead - Nov/05 with Clare

Sam and will - Lead dnf - 20/Jul/05 with Anthony Bennett

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jun/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/05

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/05 with Karl Walton

Hidden - Lead - Aug/04

Too Cold. too Crap.
Phil West - Lead dnf - 25/Jan/04 with Chris Tan

Mark Adams - 2nd - 06/Nov/03

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/02 with CEB

Brown - 2nd - 19/Jul/01

Mark Riley - 2nd - May/01 with Richard Ibberson

cem - 2nd - 11/Mar/01 with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss

Hidden - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000 with Dave, Pete

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 24/Jul/99 with Ian Pickles

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 1999 with gaz

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/98 with Johnathan Burgess

FrankW - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/98 with Unknown

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - Feb/98 with Ian Pickles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

phardman - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/97 with Bill McKee

colin milton - Lead dog - 18/Jul/95 with eric milton

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/93 with colin, baccy

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/92

Hidden - 2nd - 1992

rob.grafton - 27/Oct/91 with Bruce

malc - Lead - 10/Aug/91

leathers - Lead - 03/May/91 with James Thomas

John Marsland - Lead - 19/May/90 with Mark

steve prior - Lead - May/89 with Rob W

surfbish - Lead O/S - Feb/88

and Roger James.
Gary Coggon - Lead O/S - Feb/88 with Mike Block

Hidden - Lead - 01/Oct/87

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/86

Hidden - 1986

Stoney Boy - 2nd - 1986 with Phil Cundy

babymoac - Lead - 05/Oct/85 with MTW

Neil R - Lead - 24/Jun/85 with Richard W

sadams - Lead - 04/Apr/85

Chris Wright - Lead - 19/Mar/85

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/84

Ian Clare - 1984

Ian Clare - 1984

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1983 with RW

andy gittins - 1983

neilh - Lead O/S - Apr/82 with dave croker

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1982 with Merv Dudley

mark-abz - Lead - 03/Oct/81 with Pete T

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Jul/81

tapley - Lead - 28/Jun/81 with Chris Seymour

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Nic Robinson - AltLd - 1980

Hidden - 1979

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/78

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/77

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/77

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/May/76 with John

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Feb/76 with Mark Pearce

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Derek Ryden - 2nd O/S - 1975 with Glynne Andrew

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1974

David Smith - Lead - 1974 with Al Bennett

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 12/Mar/72

greenbuoy - 2nd - 10/Jul/71

bob@daysmill - 2nd β - 1971

lump'o'lead - 1970

mikej - Lead - 10/Nov/68 with Wil Hurford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, Leo Choi, PeteWilson, Troy Tempest

Voting
Total votes cast 168
hard E10 of 57
E10 of 57
easy E12 of 57
hard HVS39 of 57
HVS13 of 57
easy HVS3 of 57
hard VS0 of 57
VS0 of 57
easy VS0 of 57
hard 5b0 of 57
5b0 of 57
easy 5b19 of 57
hard 5a22 of 57
5a15 of 57
easy 5a0 of 57
hard 4c1 of 57
4c0 of 57
easy 4c0 of 57
3 Stars0 of 54
2 Stars14 of 54
1 Star31 of 54
0 Stars8 of 54
Bag of .....1 of 54
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf