20m.

Rockfax Description
A popular route up the long flake on the left-hand side of the buttress. The lower wall is a bit thin, the bulge is a bit beefy and the upper groove is a bit wobbly. © Rockfax

FFA. Ron Fawcett 1976. FAA. Geoff Birtles 1967


ClimberDateStyle
merlin138 29/Oct Lead dnf

Got to second peg, went to move over the bulge and pulled a hold (?) off, hit me in the cheek, bailed after that.

Alex Handley 29/Oct 2nd O/S
Andrew1 30/Jul Lead
with Hulda
Hulda 30/Jul 2nd
with Andi
Jim Slater 05/Jul 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 05/Jul Lead O/S

Quality moves with good gear what's not to like E2 5c **. No need to rely on the old looking pegs as solid alternatives exist. Few rattly holds but not really loose, upper crack is very solid with nice hand jams.

with Jim
climber34neil 24/May 2nd

With pete

phil64 13/May Lead

good climbing, stiff pull over bulge then carefully to top. Pegs pretty rubbish

with Andy Bowman
Graeme Smithy ?/Mar Lead rpt

lead - had seconded dale holding before and had lead before in 2009.

with dad
Graeme Smithy ??/2016 Lead
Martin Haworth 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Brannock 19/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead
theomoore 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Roisin
deacondeacon ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
John Jefferies 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Dominic Oughton, Andy Stewart
LRob 31/May/15 Lead G/U
admackie 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S

good, not loose thought the start felt serious

with derek beetlestone
Hidden 07/Apr/15 2nd
eel 16/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Andy J
Rachel Slater 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 26/Aug/14 2nd O/S
climber34neil 04/Aug/14 -
Jono_LS16 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jshields 18/Jun/14 Lead
TonyF 18/Jun/14 2nd
Andy Peak 1 19/May/14 Lead

loose! a pile of

Dave Turnbull, BMC 02/Apr/14 Lead
with Ian Parnell
remus 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S

E1 seems a bit tight. Easy to spend a fair bit of time on the crux looking for holds that aren't going to fall off. Started to rain just after i topped out. Felt a bit guilty that maddie didnt get to have a go.

Owen W-G 29/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Exhausted at end of day ( and after up and down climbing crux of Armageddon about 10 times), lowered off second peg

with Nic
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Apharri 02/May/13 2nd β
with Dave Wharton
bigdrew ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Eve
Joughton 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S

too hard and too chossy to be E1

Dave Foster 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

E2 for looseness. All over after the bulge if you can forget about the chossfest you're tottering up. Great entertainment watching Si manage to screw his loaf and battle up Wee Doris after this - a mighty lead.

with Robin
robin_hackney 04/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 06/Apr/12 Lead dog

Faffed about for too long placing extra gear as I didn't trust either of the in-situ pegs. E1 if you trust the pegs and tat, E2 if you don't.

Hidden 05/Apr/12 Lead β
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
Misha 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Paused for a while on the undercut trying to figure out best way of going over the bulge but turned out to be easier than it looked, just needed to commit. Only really one 5c move and some 5b lower down so probably only E1. The groove above the bulge is pleasant VS climbing and not really loose.

with Paul
Pay Attention 22/Oct/11 2nd
with Misha
nai 02/Sep/11 2nd
with Andrew
Jim Slater 07/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Andy S
mark20 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Birdo 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

hmmm, thinking closer to E2 for the bulge and wobbly bits but the top crack is fairly solid... especially if windhover is E2..

with Daniel Wicks
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
TonyF ??/2010 -
Brian Rodgers 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S

I would have said that the original grade of E2 was more accurate.

Mike Todd 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Loose rock and a stout pull over the bulge. (Also this day failed on london wall after ripping gear where pe used to be).

with Noaksy
Dave Heaton 11/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun/09 Lead
Sankey 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Stephen
galpinos 07/Mar/09 2nd
with Nick V
middlevern ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Brown 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
Al Evans ??/2008 -
nige 21/May/05 Lead
with mark hounslea
Hidden 28/Mar/02 Lead
Carl Smethurst 08/Jul/01 Lead rpt
with Ian Pickles
kristian ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
Roget 12/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with colin
whispering nic ?/Jul/92 -
with Graham Iles
Hidden 16/Jun/91 Lead
leathers 28/Jun/90 2nd
with James Thomas
Hidden 06/Jun/88 Lead
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1988 -
with Leeds Crew
Billg 04/May/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Stoney Boy ?/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden 16/Jul/86 Lead dog
Mike Owen 14/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Eric Rooseberry
Chris Wright 01/Aug/85 Lead
sadams 18/May/85 2nd
with John from London
Hidden 20/Apr/85 2nd
Bruce Kerr 06/Apr/85 Lead
with Dave Bartle
sadams 04/Apr/85 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/85 -
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
Bulls Crack ??/1985 Lead β
with AM
Andy Nicholson ??/1985 -
neilh 28/Oct/84 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/83 2nd
Dave Musgrove 04/Apr/83 -
charlesmfrench 20/Mar/83 2nd O/S
Gezzer ??/1983 -
andy gittins ??/1983 -
mark-abz 16/Oct/82 Lead
with Kev H
uphillnow 04/Oct/81 Lead

Repeated as second 13/3/16 with Graeme

duncan ?/May/81 Lead
Chris Terrey 11/Apr/81 Lead
with Neil Williams
Ian Jones ??/1981 Lead rpt

Thuggish on horrible rock.

with Rich Lewis (a.k.a. 'Dick Hairs')
duncan ?/Oct/80 -
Hidden ?/Sep/80 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 31/May/80 Lead
with Steve Finch
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Chris Ellis 11/May/79 2nd
with Dave Lee
Hidden ??/1979 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 55
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set