102m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The ubiquitous and excellent traverse (Hard Rock - say no more) which crosses the buttress. Positions throughout are excellent, and there is a lot of great climbing, but despite the passage of many, there is still some suspect rock.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb Aurora (possible belay on the ledge) and follow its second pitch before striking out left across the airy wall to the Our Father cave stance. It is also possible to belay at the start of the traverse, if moral support is needed.
2) 5a, 15m. Traverse left across the black wall (crumbly, but in balance) to a small ledge on Windhover, just around the arete.
3) 5c, 15m. Traverse left again along the break, and then swing under the roof to join The Flakes and follow it past the tricky section to a hanging belay.
4) 5c, 35m. Traverse left to cross Kellogg, then left again across the bay above Kink. Follow the break leftwards across the wall to Inquisitor, then climb this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Unknown 1970s. FAA. Chris Jackson, Jim Ballard, C.Moore 1964 1975

Ticklists: Hard Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, UK Lonely Leads.

Graeme Smithy 21/May AltLd

Mild E2 the traverse into the our father seemed as difficult as anything else. Generally well protected the 4th pitch being as awkward for the 2nd once the peg is unclipped.

with Dale Holding,
Martin Haworth 07/May AltLd O/S

Loved this route, long, sustained and interesting all the way, and some amazing positions and exposure. Me pitch 1 and 3, John pitch 2 and 4. Started to rain as I was seconding the last pitch but I just got across before it became a problem. Pitch 3 is hard, but pitch 4 is the crux.

Brannock 07/May Lead rpt
pete1993 03/Apr AltLd O/S

absolutely fantastic, almost bailed at the first belay due to lack of psyche from loose rock but very glad we didn't, never easy but never hard enough to really worry

with Harry
harry_lewis 03/Apr AltLd O/S

very good climbing, rock quality improves after crumbling death pillar at the beginning

Nigel Bond 17/Oct/15 -

Last climbed at Stoney Middleton in 1983 so it was nice to return. Had a great day climbing did Aurora Arête and followed Alcasan to the Flakes finishing up this. So need to come back soon to do the second half of pitch five and pitch six to complete the route.

markalmack 21/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
WB 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Good positions and dry.

Mark Grist 23/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom Doldon
Duncan Campbell 08/Jun/15 AltLd β

Glad to get it done after not quite making it last year. Well Good after work adventure!

with Bubbles
Brannock 04/May/15 AltLd rpt

Up to pitch three, led pitches 1 and 3, the closest the peak comes to proper adventure climbing. Very good. Defiantly got to go back and finish it someday.

Canyak ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
Andy Peak 1 28/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Nice trip across the walls, surpassingly good rock and amazing positions, sherd the belay whit James Mc after he climbed up and reversed down the 5c finish of the flakes direct super coo:-)

admackie 28/Oct/14 AltLd

absolutely bloody brilliant. scary but never as hard as it threatened to be, good route finding lead tiger trot and pitches 2 and 4

with andy
Graeme Hammond 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

ACE, Did in 5 pitches (missing out the bottom crap pitch of Aurora), led the pitch from the alter to the Our Father stance and the pitch crossing the flakes. tough drop down move on the last pitch. T-shirts weather :)

with Chris Hindley
Misha 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Great positions all the way with good climbing make for a real classic. Ed led the first pitch up Aurora, belaying on the arÍte as traversing from there would have caused horrendous rope drag. Would probably be ok if going straight up the HVS on the arÍte but Aurora follows a corner a few metres to the right. I led through to the small airy stance on the Windhover arÍte. A good long pitch with some tricky moves to get to the Our Father cave, then easy but still enjoyable. Led the next two pitches as well (might just about go in one on 60m ropes). P3 is quite short and features what you think is the crux (drop down on jugs into a corner) which is a followed by the actual crux (short traverse across a wall into the next stance). Great belay with space below your feet, cams 1 and 2 useful (the in situ lower off is well dodgy - two rusty pegs). The last pitch is quite long and, similarly to the previous pitch, there is a section where you have to drop down and move round an arÍte and into a corner but this time it's harder and it's the actual crux. After that it's a steady and enjoyable traverse, followed by an easy groove. Four pitches - proper multi pitch! Great fun. No one else on the buttress - just as well!

with Ed
eduardo 09/Aug/14 AltLd
with Misha
Rachel Slater 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Fun outing! Lead pitches 2 and 4 (4th was my fave). Easier pitches felt hard for their grades while the 5c pitches felt quite soft.

Justin T 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Very cool traverse! Led P1 (nearly self-sandbagged trying to pull up overhanging rubble on left of arete), and P3. Seconding the start of P4 was somewhat thought-provoking...

with Rachel
ChrisBrooke 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

P2 and P4. The traverse on P1 was hard, enjoyable and fairly sketchy. P2 is described as crumbly but has easy climbing on good holds and plenty of pro. P3 is harder and less well protected. I didn't have quite enough draws on the long P4 so ran it out a bit. Some hard climbing towards the start of the pitch. Really enjoyable climbing overall and a great end to a day of Stoney E2 classics.

with Alan PD
j.buckley87 28/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Got it this time. WARNING! back up the pegs on the belay after the flakes as leader took a fall and one of them (the right one) twisted loose. Epic route but might benefit from a bit more traffic.

j.buckley87 23/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Retreated on last pitch due to lack of daylight and frazzled nerves. Great route so far with some tricky moves but not as tricky as I was expecting but we'll have to see what the last half of the last pitch has in store.

Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
ashtond6 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S

P1,3. Much better than it looks! Thought I was going to hurt myself when a hold snapped off in my hand on the second crux

robw007 21/May/14 AltLd β
Duncan Campbell 15/May/14 AltLd dnf

So close! Started at 6:45ish so it was pretty ambitious thinking we'd finish it. Brannock made a good decision and bailed halfway through last pitch (I was pretty glad of this as I wasn't looking forward to seconding it in the dark) I led P1 from the Aurora belay and P3 brilliant climbing. I'll just have to go back and do it again!

Brannock 15/May/14 AltLd O/S

4.5 out of 5 pitches, bailed due to darkness and fear on my part. Great climbing, masses of rusty iron work, some wonky holds, gear always just about there, topping out through a thorn bush and abseiling off into a stand of nettles, proper adventure! Started up 1st pitch Aurora Arete probably a mistake, would have been easier to do just 2nd pitch of Aurora Arete.

Dave Turnbull, BMC 02/Apr/14 AltLd dnf

2/3s of route going L to R starting up Inquisitor

with Ian Parnell
mike mo ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
masa-alpin 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

I lead P1 (before the traverse) and P3 (5c), Simon did P2 (till Windhover arete) and P4 (5c). Great line. Simon's first E2 onsight!

with Simon P
Hidden 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
M_W_Court 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Classy summer evening out.

with Courty
CharlieMack 01/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Jim Burton
The Reaper 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

First venture onto Windy Buttress for me. Fantastic situations. Think I made it hard for myself after the hanging belay on The Flakes by going too high, felt much harder than anything else on the climbs. Unfortunately ran out of time around about Kellogg so abbed off. Must come back and finish off.

cobweb 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

excellent climbing, not too loose , rather frightening positions

with Roger Waterworth
Hidden 12/May/12 AltLd rpt
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
DanH9883 ??/2012 Lead
bigdrew 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

p2 and 4 nothing too loose and a great position. Caused myself bad rope dragon the 4th pitch though!

with Neil
mark20 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4, the chossy ones! Good fun

Hidden 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
gazfellows 02/Apr/11 AltLd

Brilliant route up untill a hold broke off in my hand on the last pitch resulting in a fall, and a broken ankle in 4 places... But i'll be back.... arrrr.

with shaun d
Pete Graham 29/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with James Monypenny
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
robw007 31/Jul/10 Lead β
Hidden 25/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Bob 04/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Did in six pitches as per the old guide.

with Steve Brock
Somerset swede basher 12/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Jessica Garland
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Brown 26/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with John
Hidden 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 28/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 08/Oct/06 AltLd
Hidden 08/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/2005 AltLd
GuyM ??/2005 AltLd
with will
steveb2006 27/Apr/03 AltLd

Get across the crux wall after The Flakes bit - looks like a peg is missing - place a wire to protect Paul. Last pitch pleasant - rains after

with Paul Ramsden
WB ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden ??/2000 -
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
Hidden ?/May/97 AltLd
Roget 03/Nov/96 Lead O/S
with jon
robtrooper ??/1996 Lead
Stoney Boy 02/May/93 Lead O/S

Started up Aurora Arete. Led Pitch 1, 3 and 5.

with Neil McCallum
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
steveb2006 17/Jul/91 AltLd

Hard rock route number 3

with Mike Pycroft
Hidden 10/Jun/91 AltLd
philhilo ??/1990 -
philhilo ??/1990 -
steveb2006 15/Jan/89 AltLd dog

Fall off on the Kingdom Come bit. Still not bad for mid January

with Mike Pycroft
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden ??/1987 -
shark ?/Nov/86 AltLd
with Neil McAddy (Captain)
RichardMc 26/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
MikeYouCanClimb 29/Jun/86 AltLd
with Adam
John Marsland 08/Jun/86 AltLd
with Tony Rex
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
steveb2006 10/Aug/85 AltLd dog

Takes all day!. Both of us hang off/pull on peg on 5th pitch, descending into the Kingdom Come groove. Brilliant route

with Max Rock
Hidden 01/Jun/85 AltLd
sadams 27/Jun/84 AltLd
with Pete Herrod
Mark Kemball 15/Feb/83 AltLd
with Paul Clark
charlesmfrench 08/Jan/83 Lead O/S
with Nick
uphillnow ?/Jan/83 AltLd

Very cold, ice in places on the route

with charlie french
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Derek Shaw
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Hidden ??/1983 AltLd rpt
TonyF ?/May/82 Lead rpt
with Martin Lancaster, Tony Cox
Nevil ?/Apr/82 Lead
with Nick
Martin Bennett 16/Oct/81 -

With aid

with JD
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/80 Lead
Andy Fielding 06/Sep/80 2nd
with Steve Hartland
Nic Robinson ??/1980 AltLd
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Chris Terrey ??/1980 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Mark Kemball 27/Oct/79 AltLd
with Mark Brewster
Andy Edgar ??/1979 AltLd

didn't enjoy it that much to be honest

with Mick Hardwick
Hidden ?/Nov/78 2nd
GeoffG ?/May/78 AltLd
with tony bowker
Dave Musgrove 24/Apr/77 Lead dnf

Just the 1st 3 pitches. Late start after several routes in the cold wind on Stanage.

with Jim Worthington
mikej 17/May/76 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Marcus ??/1976 -
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Falko 12/Oct/74 Lead O/S
with Dick Swinden, Al W.
tutbury ?/Sep/69 -
with Mick Quinn
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High E3
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High E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 25
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 31
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
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