Alcasan*** E2 5c
[Dave 'cutting loose' on Alcasan, 2 kb]102m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The ubiquitous and excellent traverse (Hard Rock - say no more) which crosses the buttress. Positions throughout are excellent, and there is a lot of great climbing, but despite the passage of many, there is still some suspect rock.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb Aurora (possible belay on the ledge) and follow its second pitch before striking out left across the airy wall to the Our Father cave stance. It is also possible to belay at the start of the traverse, if moral support is needed.
2) 5a, 15m. Traverse left across the black wall (crumbly, but in balance) to a small ledge on Windhover, just around the arete.
3) 5c, 15m. Traverse left again along the break, and then swing under the roof to join The Flakes and follow it past the tricky section to a hanging belay.
4) 5c, 35m. Traverse left to cross Kellogg, then left again across the bay above Kink. Follow the break leftwards across the wall to Inquisitor, then climb this to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. Unknown 1970s. FAA. Chris Jackson, Jim Ballard, C.Moore 1964 1975

Ticklists: Hard Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Dave 'cutting loose' on Alcasan © madmats
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

markalmack - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/15 with will

Good positions and dry.
WB - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/15 with Mark

Mark Grist - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/15 with Tom Doldon

Glad to get it done after not quite making it last year. Well Good after work adventure!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd β - 08/Jun/15 with Bubbles

Up to pitch three, led pitches 1 and 3, the closest the peak comes to proper adventure climbing. Very good. Defiantly got to go back and finish it someday.
Brannock - AltLd rpt - 04/May/15

Canyak - 2015

Nice trip across the walls, surpassingly good rock and amazing positions, sherd the belay whit James Mc after he climbed up and reversed down the 5c finish of the flakes direct super coo:-)
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd O/S - 28/Oct/14 with Andy Makey

absolutely bloody brilliant. scary but never as hard as it threatened to be, good route finding lead tiger trot and pitches 2 and 4
admackie - AltLd - 28/Oct/14 with andy

ACE, Did in 5 pitches (missing out the bottom crap pitch of Aurora), led the pitch from the alter to the Our Father stance and the pitch crossing the flakes. tough drop down move on the last pitch. T-shirts weather :)
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Chris Hindley

Great positions all the way with good climbing make for a real classic. Ed led the first pitch up Aurora, belaying on the arÍte as traversing from there would have caused horrendous rope drag. Would probably be ok if going straight up the HVS on the arÍte but Aurora follows a corner a few metres to the right. I led through to the small airy stance on the Windhover arÍte. A good long pitch with some tricky moves to get to the Our Father cave, then easy but still enjoyable. Led the next two pitches as well (might just about go in one on 60m ropes). P3 is quite short and features what you think is the crux (drop down on jugs into a corner) which is a followed by the actual crux (short traverse across a wall into the next stance). Great belay with space below your feet, cams 1 and 2 useful (the in situ lower off is well dodgy - two rusty pegs). The last pitch is quite long and, similarly to the previous pitch, there is a section where you have to drop down and move round an arÍte and into a corner but this time it's harder and it's the actual crux. After that it's a steady and enjoyable traverse, followed by an easy groove. Four pitches - proper multi pitch! Great fun. No one else on the buttress - just as well!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Ed

Fun outing! Lead pitches 2 and 4 (4th was my fave). Easier pitches felt hard for their grades while the 5c pitches felt quite soft.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Justin Timms

Very cool traverse! Led P1 (nearly self-sandbagged trying to pull up overhanging rubble on left of arete), and P3. Seconding the start of P4 was somewhat thought-provoking...
Justin T - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Rachel

P2 and P4. The traverse on P1 was hard, enjoyable and fairly sketchy. P2 is described as crumbly but has easy climbing on good holds and plenty of pro. P3 is harder and less well protected. I didn't have quite enough draws on the long P4 so ran it out a bit. Some hard climbing towards the start of the pitch. Really enjoyable climbing overall and a great end to a day of Stoney E2 classics.
ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Alan PD

Got it this time. WARNING! back up the pegs on the belay after the flakes as leader took a fall and one of them (the right one) twisted loose. Epic route but might benefit from a bit more traffic.
j.buckley87 - AltLd rpt - 28/Jun/14

Retreated on last pitch due to lack of daylight and frazzled nerves. Great route so far with some tricky moves but not as tricky as I was expecting but we'll have to see what the last half of the last pitch has in store.
j.buckley87 - AltLd dnf - 23/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14

P1,3. Much better than it looks! Thought I was going to hurt myself when a hold snapped off in my hand on the second crux
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14

robw007 - AltLd β - 21/May/14

So close! Started at 6:45ish so it was pretty ambitious thinking we'd finish it. Brannock made a good decision and bailed halfway through last pitch (I was pretty glad of this as I wasn't looking forward to seconding it in the dark) I led P1 from the Aurora belay and P3 brilliant climbing. I'll just have to go back and do it again!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd dnf - 15/May/14 with Brannock

4.5 out of 5 pitches, bailed due to darkness and fear on my part. Great climbing, masses of rusty iron work, some wonky holds, gear always just about there, topping out through a thorn bush and abseiling off into a stand of nettles, proper adventure! Started up 1st pitch Aurora Arete probably a mistake, would have been easier to do just 2nd pitch of Aurora Arete.
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 15/May/14

2/3s of route going L to R starting up Inquisitor
Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd dnf - 02/Apr/14 with Ian Parnell

mike mo - 2014

James Thacker - 2014

Hidden - 2014

I lead P1 (before the traverse) and P3 (5c), Simon did P2 (till Windhover arete) and P4 (5c). Great line. Simon's first E2 onsight!
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Simon P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13

M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with ian sutcliffe

Classy summer evening out.
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Courty

Hidden - Apr/13

CharlieMack - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Jim Burton

excellent climbing, not too loose , rather frightening positions
cobweb - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Roger Waterworth

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/May/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idle - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

DanH9883 - Lead - 2012

p2 and 4 nothing too loose and a great position. Caused myself bad rope dragon the 4th pitch though!
bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Neil

Led P2 and P4, the chossy ones! Good fun
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11

Brilliant route up untill a hold broke off in my hand on the last pitch resulting in a fall, and a broken ankle in 4 places... But i'll be back.... arrrr.
gazfellows - AltLd - 02/Apr/11 with shaun d

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/11 with James Monypenny

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

robw007 - Lead β - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/10

TonyF - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

Did in six pitches as per the old guide.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Steve Brock

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Jessica Garland

Al Evans - 2008

Brown - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/07 with John

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 28/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Oct/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/06

Brian Rodgers - AltLd - 2005 with Phil Leng

GuyM - AltLd - 2005 with will

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Apr/03

WB - Lead O/S - 2002 with Guy

Hidden - 2000

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Hidden - AltLd - May/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/96 with jon

robtrooper - Lead - 1996

Started up Aurora Arete. Led Pitch 1, 3 and 5.
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 02/May/93 with Neil McCallum

ChrisJD - AltLd - 1993 with Rich

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/91

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/91

philhilo - 1990

philhilo - 1990

Hidden - AltLd dog - 15/Jan/89

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - 1987

shark - AltLd - Nov/86 with Neil McAddy (Captain)

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/86 with Jon Clifford-Smith

MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd - 29/Jun/86 with Adam

John Marsland - AltLd - 08/Jun/86 with Tony Rex

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Aug/85

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/85

sadams - AltLd - 27/Jun/84 with Pete Herrod

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 15/Feb/83 with Paul Clark

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/83 with Nick

Very cold, ice in places on the route
uphillnow - AltLd - Jan/83 with charlie french

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Derek Shaw

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 1983

TonyF - Lead rpt - May/82 with Martin Lancaster, Tony Cox

Hidden - Lead - Apr/82

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/80

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 06/Sep/80 with Steve Hartland

Nic Robinson - AltLd - 1980

mitch1960 - Lead - 1980

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 27/Oct/79 with Mark Brewster

didn't enjoy it that much to be honest
Andy Edgar - AltLd - 1979 with Mick Hardwick

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/78

GeoffG - AltLd - May/78 with tony bowker

Just the 1st 3 pitches. Late start after several routes in the cold wind on Stanage.
Dave Musgrove - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/77 with Jim Worthington

mikej - AltLd - 17/May/76 with Mike Byles

Marcus - 1976

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Falko - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/74 with Dick Swinden, Al W.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, Calum Wadsworth, dunk3607, JonmapDL, owain86, Nick1812P, web10steelj, rob7b, Sam1991, sinbad, centurion05

Total votes cast 77
hard E30 of 24
E30 of 24
easy E30 of 24
hard E22 of 24
E220 of 24
easy E22 of 24
hard E10 of 24
E10 of 24
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hard 6a0 of 30
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easy 6a0 of 30
hard 5c4 of 30
5c25 of 30
easy 5c1 of 30
hard 5b0 of 30
5b0 of 30
easy 5b0 of 30
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
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Clean repeat