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Alcasan** E2 5c

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[Stoney Exposure, 2 kb]102m, 5 pitches. The ubiquitous and excellent traverse (Hard Rock - say no more) which crosses the buttress. Positions throughout are excellent, and there is a lot of great climbing, but despite the passage of many, there is still some suspect rock. 1) 5b, 40m. Climb Aurora (possible belay on the ledge) and follow its second pitch before striking out left across the airy wall to the Our Father cave stance. It is also possible to belay at the start of the traverse, if moral support is needed. 2) 5a, 15m. Traverse left across the black wall (crumbly, but in balance) to a small ledge on Windhover, just around the arete. 3) 5c, 15m. Traverse left again along the break, and then swing under the roof to join The Flakes and follow it past the tricky section to a hanging belay. 4) 5c, 35m. Traverse left to cross Kellogg, then left again across the bay above Kink. Follow the break leftwards across the wall to Inquisitor, then climb this to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Unknown 1970s. FAA. Chris Jackson, Jim Ballard, C.Moore 1964 1975

Ticklists: Hard Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Stoney Exposure © Dan Arkle
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

P2 and P4. The traverse on P1 was hard, enjoyable and fairly sketchy. P2 is described as crumbly but has easy climbing on good holds and plenty of pro. P3 is harder and less well protected. I didn't have quite enough draws on the long P4 so ran it out a bit. Some hard climbing towards the start of the pitch. Really enjoyable climbing overall and a great end to a day of Stoney E2 classics.
ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Alan PD

Got it this time. WARNING! back up the pegs on the belay after the flakes as leader took a fall and one of them (the right one) twisted loose. Epic route but might benefit from a bit more traffic.
j.buckley87 - AltLd rpt - 28/Jun/14

Retreated on last pitch due to lack of daylight and frazzled nerves. Great route so far with some tricky moves but not as tricky as I was expecting but we'll have to see what the last half of the last pitch has in store.
j.buckley87 - AltLd dnf - 23/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14

P1,3. Much better than it looks! Thought I was going to hurt myself when a hold snapped off in my hand on the second crux
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14

robw007 - AltLd β - 21/May/14

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/May/14

4.5 out of 5 pitches, bailed due to darkness and fear on my part. Great climbing, masses of rusty iron work, some wonky holds, gear always just about there, topping out through a thorn bush and abseiling off into a stand of nettles, proper adventure! Started up 1st pitch Aurora Arete probably a mistake, would have been easier to do just 2nd pitch of Aurora Arete.
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 15/May/14

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Apr/14

mike mo - 2014

I lead P1 (before the traverse) and P3 (5c), Simon did P2 (till Windhover arete) and P4 (5c). Great line. Simon's first E2 onsight!
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Simon P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13

M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with ian sutcliffe

Classy summer evening out.
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Courty

Hidden - Apr/13

CharlieMack - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Jim Burton

excellent climbing, not too loose , rather frightening positions
cobweb - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Roger Waterworth

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/May/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

p2 and 4 nothing too loose and a great position. Caused myself bad rope dragon the 4th pitch though!
bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Neil

Led P2 and P4, the chossy ones! Good fun
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11

Brilliant route up untill a hold broke off in my hand on the last pitch resulting in a fall, and a broken ankle in 4 places... But i'll be back.... arrrr.
gazfellows - AltLd - 02/Apr/11 with shaun d

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/11 with James Monypenny

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

robw007 - Lead β - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/10

TonyF - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

Did in six pitches as per the old guide.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Steve Brock

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Jessica Garland

Al Evans - 2008

Brown - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/07 with John

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 28/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Oct/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/06

Brian Rodgers - AltLd - 2005 with Phil Leng

GuyM - AltLd - 2005 with will

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Apr/03

WB - Lead O/S - 2002 with Guy

Hidden - 2000

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Hidden - AltLd - May/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/96 with jon

robtrooper - Lead - 1996

Started up Aurora Arete. Led Pitch 1, 3 and 5.
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 02/May/93 with Neil McCallum

ChrisJD - AltLd - 1993 with Rich

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/91

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/91

philhilo - 1990

philhilo - 1990

Hidden - AltLd dog - 15/Jan/89

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - 1987

shark - AltLd - Nov/86 with Neil McAddy (Captain)

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/86 with Jon Clifford-Smith

MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd - 29/Jun/86 with Adam

John Marsland - AltLd - 08/Jun/86 with Tony Rex

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Aug/85

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/85

sadams - AltLd - 27/Jun/84 with Pete Herrod

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 15/Feb/83 with Paul Clark

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/83 with Nick

Very cold, ice in places on the route
David Smith - AltLd - Jan/83 with charlie french

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Derek Shaw

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 1983

Hidden - Lead - Apr/82

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/80

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 06/Sep/80 with Steve Hartland

Nic Robinson - AltLd - 1980

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 27/Oct/79 with Mark Brewster

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/78

GeoffG - AltLd - May/78 with tony bowker

Just the 1st 3 pitches. Late start after several routes in the cold wind on Stanage.
Dave Musgrove - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/77 with Jim Worthington

mikej - AltLd - 17/May/76 with Mike Byles

Hidden - 1976

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Falko - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/74 with Dick Swinden, Al W.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, JonmapDL, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, owain86, Nick1812P, web10steelj, Hidden, rob7b, Hidden, Sam1991, sinbad, centurion05, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard E30 of 20
E30 of 20
easy E30 of 20
hard E22 of 20
E216 of 20
easy E22 of 20
hard E10 of 20
E10 of 20
easy E10 of 20
hard 6a0 of 26
6a0 of 26
easy 6a0 of 26
hard 5c4 of 26
5c21 of 26
easy 5c1 of 26
hard 5b0 of 26
5b0 of 26
easy 5b0 of 26
3 Stars12 of 19
2 Stars6 of 19
1 Star1 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Lead15 of 91 (16.5%)
Followed3 of 91 (3.3%)
Alt Leads54 of 91 (59.3%)
Unknown19 of 91 (20.9%)

'Climbed'47 of 91 (51.6%)
clean O/S32 of 91 (35.2%)
clean β2 of 91 (2.2%)
clean rpt4 of 91 (4.4%)
dogged2 of 91 (2.2%)
dnf4 of 91 (4.4%)