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Alcasan** E2 5c

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[Stoney Exposure, 2 kb]102m, 5 pitches. The ubiquitous and excellent traverse (Hard Rock - say no more) which crosses the buttress. Positions throughout are excellent, and there is a lot of great climbing, but despite the passage of many, there is still some suspect rock. 1) 5b, 40m. Climb Aurora (possible belay on the ledge) and follow its second pitch before striking out left across the airy wall to the Our Father cave stance. It is also possible to belay at the start of the traverse, if moral support is needed. 2) 5a, 15m. Traverse left across the black wall (crumbly, but in balance) to a small ledge on Windhover, just around the arete. 3) 5c, 15m. Traverse left again along the break, and then swing under the roof to join The Flakes and follow it past the tricky section to a hanging belay. 4) 5c, 35m. Traverse left to cross Kellogg, then left again across the bay above Kink. Follow the break leftwards across the wall to Inquisitor, then climb this to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Unknown 1970s. FAA. Chris Jackson, Jim Ballard, C.Moore 1964 1975

Ticklists: Hard Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Stoney Exposure © Dan Arkle
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 79 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Apr/14

I lead P1 (before the traverse) and P3 (5c), Simon did P2 (till Windhover arete) and P4 (5c). Great line. Simon's first E2 onsight!
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Simon P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13

M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with ian sutcliffe

Classy summer evening out.
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Courty

Hidden - Apr/13

CharlieMack - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Jim Burton

excellent climbing, not too loose , rather frightening positions
cobweb - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Roger Waterworth

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/May/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

p2 and 4 nothing too loose and a great position. Caused myself bad rope dragon the 4th pitch though!
bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Neil

Led P2 and P4, the chossy ones! Good fun
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11

Brilliant route up untill a hold broke off in my hand on the last pitch resulting in a fall, and a broken ankle in 4 places... But i'll be back.... arrrr.
gazfellows - AltLd - 02/Apr/11 with shaun d

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/11 with James Monypenny

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

robw007 - Lead β - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/10

TonyF - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

Did in six pitches as per the old guide.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Steve Brock

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Jessica Garland

Al Evans - 2008

Brown - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/07 with John

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 28/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Oct/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/06

Brian Rodgers - AltLd - 2005 with Phil Leng

GuyM - AltLd - 2005 with will

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Apr/03

WB - Lead O/S - 2002 with Guy

Hidden - 2000

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Hidden - AltLd - May/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/96 with jon

Started up Aurora Arete. Led Pitch 1, 3 and 5.
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 02/May/93 with Neil McCallum

ChrisJD - AltLd - 1993 with Rich

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/91

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/91

philhilo - 1990

philhilo - 1990

Hidden - AltLd dog - 15/Jan/89

Hidden - 1987

shark - AltLd - Nov/86 with Neil McAddy (Captain)

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/86 with Jon Clifford-Smith

MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd - 29/Jun/86 with Adam

John Marsland - AltLd - 08/Jun/86 with Tony Rex

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Aug/85

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/85

sadams - AltLd - 27/Jun/84 with Pete Herrod

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 15/Feb/83 with Paul Clark

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/83 with Nick

Very cold, ice in places on the route
David Smith - AltLd - Jan/83 with charlie french

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Derek Shaw

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 1983

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/80

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 06/Sep/80 with Steve Hartland

Nic Robinson - AltLd - 1980

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 27/Oct/79 with Mark Brewster

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/78

GeoffG - AltLd - May/78 with tony bowker

Just the 1st 3 pitches. Late start after several routes in the cold wind on Stanage.
Dave Musgrove - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/77 with Jim Worthington

mikej - AltLd - 17/May/76 with Mike Byles

Hidden - 1976

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Falko - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/74 with Dick Swinden, Al W.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, owain86, Nick1812P, web10steelj, Hidden, rob7b, Hidden, Sam1991, sinbad, centurion05, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 53
hard E30 of 16
E30 of 16
easy E30 of 16
hard E20 of 16
E214 of 16
easy E22 of 16
hard E10 of 16
E10 of 16
easy E10 of 16
hard 6a0 of 22
6a0 of 22
easy 6a0 of 22
hard 5c2 of 22
5c19 of 22
easy 5c1 of 22
hard 5b0 of 22
5b0 of 22
easy 5b0 of 22
3 Stars8 of 15
2 Stars6 of 15
1 Star1 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Lead12 of 79 (15.2%)
Followed3 of 79 (3.8%)
Alt Leads47 of 79 (59.5%)
Unknown17 of 79 (21.5%)

'Climbed'43 of 79 (54.4%)
clean O/S28 of 79 (35.4%)
clean β1 of 79 (1.3%)
clean rpt3 of 79 (3.8%)
dogged2 of 79 (2.5%)
dnf2 of 79 (2.5%)