Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Evasor* VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Creamsnatcher
 
Can't Stop Now >>
2 pitches. A fine top pitch which gives VS climbing in an amazing position. 1) 4b, 15m. An indifferent first pitch with spaced gear. 2) 4c, 20m. Trend up and left to the break. Follow this strenuously leftwards to gain the hanging groove. Ascend this on superb holds in an amazing position. The most exposed VS at Stoney. © ROCKFAX
P.Nunn , M.Richardson 8.1.65 08/Jan/1965
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 100 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Phill Mitch - AltLd rpt - 27/Apr/14 with bleggs

Pitch 1 Creamsnatcher, pitch 2 Evasor. Very worthwhile combination.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with John Brannock

After Creamsnatcher.
Brannock - 2nd rpt - 16/Feb/14

admackie - Lead - 21/Jan/14 with mark, chris palmer

marconi - 2nd - 21/Jan/14

Hidden - 2014

Robin Nichols - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/13

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with robin

Dirty, slimy, snappy first 10 meters of the first pitch are made up for by the next 10 meters of pleasant climbing. Second pitch is simply amazing - interesting climbing on great holds in an astounding position! Unexpectedly, I'd say it's slightly easy for VS but a brill route to take Rick up for his first ever limestone trad!
madasten - Lead - 21/Sep/13 with Rick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13

Only second pitch, did Creamsnatcher as alternative first pitch, interesting link up. Great pitch.
Brannock - 17/Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/13

P1
Wayne S - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Gary

Led top pitch. Brilliant!
g1m147 - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Wayne s

A repeat ascent although it felt like climbing it for the first time since neither of us could remember anything about the previous occasion (March 2001). Great second pitch - pity about the encroaching bolt - & p1 isn't that bad really...
cem - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12

Amazing position for a VS
catblack - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Andy Barker

Fell off near the top when a hand hold with the size of 2 fists came off. A fantastic exposure with a good climb in P2. P1 is dirty and insecure (due to mud), but worth doing for the sake of P2!
masa-alpin - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/12 with Lee P

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/12 with Andy Shep

biobuild - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/12 with Mark wood

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 2012 with Stephen

cballard - 2012

Led P2. The first pitch is rubbish, with poor gear and plenty of dust. The second pitch, however, more than makes up for it. Good climbing in a stupendous position.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Adam

led the crap pitch. Wow it's everything I hate about limestone: loose, no decent line, muddy & dusty, gear placements which are either terrible or chewed out, rotten biology all over the place. Must admit the second pitch is pretty good though.
adam carless - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with victim of mathematics

Brian Rodgers - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/11 with Simon Pape

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/11

L P2, Great moves on massive holds and a great position
bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Mark R

Led P1
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/11

The second pitch is worth 3 stars, and I think it is one of the best limestone VS's in the Peak. The first pitch is now clean and pretty free from vegetation. There is the odd loose hold which can be avoided as there are plenty of good jugs. Although it is a bit run out on the first pitch, the climbing is straightforward.
smudge - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11 with Phil

Still my favourite VS in the Peak!
Phil1967 - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/11 with Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

abseiled in avoiding the first pitch this time
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/10 with Jim

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/10

Lead second pitch
Ketu - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Graeme H

Tom led first pitch. Cracking tom pitch. The traverse feels very exposed.
migs493 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Tom

tommo1664 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with mike smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10

Good 2nd pitch, which would probably be a 3 star route on its own but unfortunately let down the 1st pitch (which I led) which is as rubbish and as sparsely protected as the guide suggests, though at least 'most' of the rock is clean and fairly solid and the climbing isn't too hard between the uninspiring runners. (possibly cleaned in the recent Stoney clean up?) Maybe better approached by abseil or via Pendulum?
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Rob

Hidden - 2010

daveclarke5 - Lead - 04/Oct/09 with Andy

Led P2 - outstanding pitch.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Tim Pearson, Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

Sankey - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Luke

Horrible, poorly protected and scarey first pitch. The second pitch is one of the best VS pitches in the country, but careful with your ropework or you'll end up with serious ropedrag.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd rpt - 17/Apr/09 with Steve Grove

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Oct/08

MeMeMe - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Andy

Had my eye on this for a while and what a fantastic route. Thanks to the guys who have cleaned up pitch one. Go and climb it before it falls down.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Ed

EdShep - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Pilch

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/08

Hardonicus - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/08

Brilliant, fabulous, superb. Don't worry about the first pitch the second makes up for it in so many ways. Doesn't even have the full Stoney Pollish - A Classic
Phil1967 - Lead O/S - 15/May/08 with Dan

First pitch cleaned, no longer a forest. The holds are no longer buried so it's now a lot easier (but a bit runout).
smudge - 2nd O/S - 15/May/08 with Phil

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Led P1.
Stig - AltLd O/S - 22/May/07 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

tom.e - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/07 with Tom Powell

roberto18 - AltLd - 03/Feb/07 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Mr Powly - 2nd - Feb/07 with tom.e, George Evans

Led top pitch - very good. However, first pitch is currently a nightmare of dust and soil covering sometimes-loose rock holds interspersed with sections of vertical grass and mud. Whether or not the second pitch is worth the effort will depend on your ability ot put up with this, but it is very good.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Neil Furniss

We missed out first pitch (very overgrown) and approached via girdle traverse
ChrisJD - AltLd - 09/Jun/06 with rc

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/06

Stone Muppet - 2005

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2004 with john d

Gman - AltLd O/S - Jul/03 with Carl

colin milton - AltLd - Jun/01 with eric milton

cem - 2nd - 11/Mar/01 with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss

kristian - AltLd O/S - 2000 with paul taylor

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Ben, Pete

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

JohnHutch - Lead - 1999 with MS

99bolivar - 2nd - 1999 with John Hutchinson

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/97 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jul/93

Budge - AltLd O/S - May/92 with Brian Ottewell

leathers - AltLd - 22/May/91 with Ron Caves

AndrewP - AltLd - 1990

Lead by Roger James
Gary Coggon - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/88

Hidden - Lead - 28/Nov/86

Hidden - 1986

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/85

babymoac - Lead - 06/May/85 with MTW

neilh - Lead - 04/Nov/84 with dave croker

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Feb/84

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 08/May/83

L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/83

John Marsland - AltLd - 30/Jun/82 with Ian Stopforth

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

David Smith - Lead - 10/Feb/80

Bulls Crack - AltLd O/S - 1980 with RW

Hidden - Lead - 04/Mar/79

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/78

Nigel Bond - Lead - 07/Jul/77 with Tony Cuddy

beaumap - Lead - Jul/77 with Bernie Green

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 28/Jul/74

Dave Westby - Lead O/S - 1972 with Phil Caley

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, Andrew Turner, Dan Lane, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 124
hard HVS0 of 41
HVS0 of 41
easy HVS0 of 41
hard VS8 of 41
VS30 of 41
easy VS3 of 41
hard HS0 of 41
HS0 of 41
easy HS0 of 41
hard 5a0 of 41
5a0 of 41
easy 5a0 of 41
hard 4c2 of 41
4c31 of 41
easy 4c6 of 41
hard 4b1 of 41
4b1 of 41
easy 4b0 of 41
3 Stars5 of 42
2 Stars31 of 42
1 Star5 of 42
0 Stars1 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
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Style of ascent

Lead37 of 100 (37.0%)
Followed18 of 100 (18.0%)
Alt Leads36 of 100 (36.0%)
Unknown9 of 100 (9.0%)

'Climbed'40 of 100 (40.0%)
clean O/S49 of 100 (49.0%)
clean rpt10 of 100 (10.0%)
dogged1 of 100 (1.0%)