The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.
In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end
19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.
Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.
Reason: Nesting Birds
House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.
Rockfax Description
The short wall, crack and tricky pull at the overlap. Originally finished leftwards at 5c. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Originally trad at E1 5b, it became a bit easier after rock broke off above the overhang.
FA. Nick Taylor , Alan Taylor, Matt Silcox 06/Feb/2000.
Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Horseshoe Star Quality
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
nickcanute | 2 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Three extra bolts added, now nine in total to make it a more enjoyable and safe route. Crux is direct through top overhang then left to lower off (about 6a maybe 6a+) which is the way done originally, trad at E1 5c. Although it wasn't me who retro-bolted it with very spaced bolts, to several climbers dismay, I have now rectified this by adding 3 extra bolts. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Three extra bolts added, now nine in total to make it a more enjoyable and safe route. Crux is direct through top overhang then left to lower off (about 6a maybe 6a+) which is the way done originally, trad at E1 5c. Although it wasn't me who retro-bolted it with very spaced bolts, to several climbers dismay, I have now rectified this by adding 3 extra bolts. |
||||
Graeme Hammond | 6 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dangerous gap between 1st and 2nd bolt, not that much better bolted above, felt harder than 5C!! A poor route. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Dangerous gap between 1st and 2nd bolt, not that much better bolted above, felt harder than 5C!! A poor route. |
||||
eduardo | 12 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Left hand finish at the top as straight through the overlap looked far too pumpy for the grade. Big loose block at the right of the crack section low down, the huge block you need to pull on for the direct finish doesn't look attached to anything either. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Left hand finish at the top as straight through the overlap looked far too pumpy for the grade. Big loose block at the right of the crack section low down, the huge block you need to pull on for the direct finish doesn't look attached to anything either. |
||||
Dainius | 22 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose holds marked with X | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Loose holds marked with X |
||||
roger whetton | 13 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you follow the route as described in Gary's guide you'll end up on the left hand finish to Senter Home (6a+) - rather harder than 5+! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If you follow the route as described in Gary's guide you'll end up on the left hand finish to Senter Home (6a+) - rather harder than 5+! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)