UKC

70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another enjoyable ice-climb that is a good bet if the South Gully area is busy..
1) 4, 30m. Climb the wall of ice or the groove on the left to a poor belay on a ramp..
2) 5, 40m. Move right and follow the steep line of ice to gain the top of the descent ramp. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
mt_clayton 2 Jan, 2010 Show βeta
βeta: Took the left hand route as another team was on the belay for the second pitch of the right hand route. Climbed as a single pitch (sorry Jon). Ice was fine at the bottom, but more technical in the gully. Not much in the way of pro and pretty run-out. Ice not so good at the top, but the turf was pretty solid. Later that afternoon the left hand route was the site of a horrific fall resulting in a very complex rescue for the local MRT and attending climbers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Took the left hand route as another team was on the belay for the second pitch of the right hand route. Climbed as a single pitch (sorry Jon). Ice was fine at the bottom, but more technical in the gully. Not much in the way of pro and pretty run-out. Ice not so good at the top, but the turf was pretty solid. Later that afternoon the left hand route was the site of a horrific fall resulting in a very complex rescue for the local MRT and attending climbers.

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Guidebooks for Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - (Clogwyn y Geifr)

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High V
Mid V
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High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
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High 6
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High 4
Mid 4
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Snowdrop

Grade: IV ***
(Clogwyn y Garnedd)

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