Climbs 92
Rocktype Ice
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces N

Misha taking it steady for the 1st appendix tick of the year.. © wolf.leeb

Crag features

The Devil's Kitchen (or Clogwyn y Geifr) is set in spectacular scenery and includes the Twll Du waterfall (Devil's Kitchen) - hence the morbid route names.

In summer it offers multi-pitch routes to 100m long with some suspect rock. 

In winter it is one of the premier ice climbing venues of south border. The frozen waterfall between Devils Aappendix, Devils Staircase and Garden Gully dominates the cwm.

Approach notes

Clogwyn y Geifr is sprawled across the head of Cwm Idwal.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Winter

North Wales Winter covers the best and most reliable venues for winter climbing in North Wales including the classic gullies of the Trinity Face and the rarely-formed but absolutely essential ice climbs of Cascade and Central Icefall Direct in the Llanberis Pass. Also covered are the major ice lines of Cwm Idwal and the modern mixed climbs of Clogwyn Du and the huge cliff of The Black Ladders which rivals anything in Scotland and is home to long and committing adventures that give a full and tiring day out. This App version has all you need to find and assess the best routes whenever they are in 'nick'.
More info

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
for the winter routes see Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - Winter http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2323
michael burrows - 17/Jun/13
Where are the Winter Routes?
Christheclimber - 03/Apr/11
My son and I climbed inside the Devils Kitchen on Sunday 27/8/06. We intended to climb Twll Du (V Diff) but instead chose Night Moves (E3). Once we found a variety of kit left we assumed this was going to be an exciting climb, we would not be disappointed. We managed to climb in four pitches with one pitch a hanging belay. It was difficult to hear and respond to calls as the volume of water cascading down made it rather difficult. The atmoshere within this cauldron of excitment was further enhanced due to the dampness, constant level of concentration and the colourful shouts from both climbers. A climb which will be remembered for some time to come. Excellent.
John Garmon Roberts - 28/Aug/06
No mention at all of the winter routes there? Icefall country if the conditions are right............
AJM - 01/Mar/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1The Nameless StreamIII *27
 Winter Routes on the Devil's Kitchen 
3Introductory GullyII *38
4Idwal StreamII/III 4 *443
 South Buttress 
6South GullyIV 4 ***212
7Central RouteIII 4 **117
8Grecian 2000IV 5 *11
9Chicane GullyIII 4 **90
10Devil's PipesV 6 ***7
11The RampIII 3 ***301
12The ScreenIV 4 ***251
13The CurtainIV 4 **46
 Main Cliff Left 
15Devil's PastureIII 3 ***86
16Devil's Pasture RighthandIV 4 **6
17Coldhouse Crack
-
II/III *10
18The Devil's ChildVI * 
19The Devil's AppendageVI 6 2
20The Devils Kitchen (Winter)IV 4 ***139
 Main Cliff Right 
22The Goat's Path
-
I 13
23The Devil's Kitchen and the Sheep Walk
-
1 *31
24Devil's StaircaseV 6 ***4
25The Devil's AppendixVI 6 ***95
26Hanging Garden Gully
-
IV *1
 The Band 
28The Devil's FithbagV 5 ** 
29StingrayV 5 *22
30The StingV 5 **16
31The Devils DrainpipeIV 4/5 3
32The Devil's CellarIV 5 ***33
33The Devil's Cellar - Right Hand StartV 5 4
34Devil's DiveV 6 *1
 North Cliff 
 Castell y Geifr 
37The Trench
-
I 4
38Castle Gully
-
II/III 3 12
39Faust or FamineVIII 8 ***4
 Moved climbs 
41Devil's DiveV 6 *2
 Summer Routes on Clogwyn Y Geifr 
 South Cliff 
44South NoseVD 1
45South Gully
-
S 1
46Botany Bay ClimbVD  
47Central GrooveD  
48Piece by Piece ClimbVD  
49PlutoVS 4c  
50The TridentHVS 5a  
51Devil's AppendageHVS 5a 1
52Devil's PulpitHVS 5a  
53Devil's PipesHS 4b  
54Little CornerS  
55RedemptionHVS 5a  
 Central Cliff 
57Goats Groove
-
D  
58Goats Walk
-
M 1
59Devil's PastureM 1
60Hothouse CrackVD  
61Dump CrackS  
62Devil's DumpS  
63Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4a 1
64Night Moves
-
E3 5c 1
65Devil's Kitchen RouteVD *70
66Direct FinishVS 4c  
67Waterfall Climb
-
VS 4c 1
68Right Wall Route
-
VS 4c  
69Hell's Teeth
-
E3 5c * 
70GehnnaHVS 5a * 
71HadesE1 5b 1
72Advocate's WallVS 4b 5
73TartarusE1 5b  
74The Devil Dries OutE5 6a * 
75Hell's GateE3 5c  
76Devil's ButtressS  
77The SorcererHVS 5a  
78Devil's StaircaseS **21
79Devil's BastionE2 5c * 
80SatanHVS 5b  
81Devil's AppendixVS 4c *1
82AppendicitisE3 5c * 
83Hanging Garden GrooveE1 5c  
84Hanging Garden GullyVD 3
85The Main CrackS  
86Staircase Traverse
-
D  
87Cellar ButtressD  
88Devil's DelightE1 5b *3
89Devil's CellarVD 2
90Cool Chute ExitS  
 North Cliff 
92Easy Slab
-
VD  
93Easy Gully
-
M 1
94God's Little AcreHVS 5a 4
95Junior SlabHVS 5b  
96Devil's NordwandE1 5b **52
97Hell-BentE2 5b 2
98Devil's FissureE1 5b *4
99Devil's DoghouseHVS 5c  
100FaustusE2 5c  
101Devil's DiveVS 4b  
102InfernoVS 4c  
103North SlabsVS 4c  
104TranquillityHVS 4c  

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