UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

20m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best here, a tricky start leads to a fine finish up the open scoop - good footwork helps. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Jackson, Bob Conway 1984.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Horseshoe Star Quality , Peak sport for mortals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave Wills 17 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: bottom 3rd is rather polished
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bottom 3rd is rather polished
richardh 17 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found the move up from the mantel ledge well harsh, couldn't do it in fact. maybe easier when drier or is there a trick?
Show beta
βeta: Found the move up from the mantel ledge well harsh, couldn't do it in fact. maybe easier when drier or is there a trick?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Enchanted Nightmare

Grade: 6c ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)

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