UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing. At the groove, stretch left around the bulge to a hidden jug, then move back right. © Rockfax

FA. Ian French, Chris Wright, Steve France 1985. Ian French originally laybacked up the fluting at E5 6b. Give it a go! Direct - Gary Gibson 1998.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Red Spot HorseShoe (and nearby) 2016 , Peak sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality , Peak sport for mortals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tomadevil 22 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good moves along the way but it very polished which ruins the climbing experience.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good moves along the way but it very polished which ruins the climbing experience.
I Taylor 18 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Found a sad face chalked on the jug on the right between the 4th and 5th bolts. Loose and hollow. Removed all the offending rock, which has left a nice edge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found a sad face chalked on the jug on the right between the 4th and 5th bolts. Loose and hollow. Removed all the offending rock, which has left a nice edge.
ez does it 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The jug just below the 5th bolt is not solid! Feels like the block is going to come out at some point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The jug just below the 5th bolt is not solid! Feels like the block is going to come out at some point.
Fiend 15 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Surprisingly good route, better than it looks and interesting all the way right up to an exposed finish for which you do need to zig left and zag right quite a bit. Runout middle is easy so don't worry. The climbing in more committing than actually hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surprisingly good route, better than it looks and interesting all the way right up to an exposed finish for which you do need to zig left and zag right quite a bit. Runout middle is easy so don't worry. The climbing in more committing than actually hard.
Alan James - Rockfax 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Once around the bulge, clip the bolt out left then make the step up. Then unclip it and clip the bolt above you to avoid hideous rope-drag.
Show beta
βeta: Once around the bulge, clip the bolt out left then make the step up. Then unclip it and clip the bolt above you to avoid hideous rope-drag.

Logged Ascents

1181 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 116
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Lime Arch

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Dovedale)

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