Rockfax Description
Once the most popular route at Horseshoe, up the crack and groove. Showing its age a bit and high(ish) in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Ian French, Steve France, Mark Pretty, Chris Wright 1986

Ticklists: Peak limestone north graded list - sport.

Hidden 17/Oct Lead RP
gavinpeach 24/Sep Lead dog

Really nice up to the ledge but had to clip stick the bolt above the ledge. The fall potential off this move would involve hitting a ledge nastily.

with Hellen
gavinpeach 24/Sep TR rpt
with Hellen
Hidden 19/Sep TR RP
Neal Jobling 06/Sep Lead O/S
with apw
Pete Wimbush 06/Sep 2nd
with Neal Jobbling
Hidden 15/Aug Lead
andyman666999 05/Aug Lead O/S

Really liked the first half, shame that it doesn't carry on in this vein after halfway. Upper half polished with a couple of stiff pulls.

with Phardy
RKirke 25/Jul Lead O/S
ashtond6 19/Jul Lead dnf

Really really nice, then a 5m ledge fall potential... not interested

MrBIond 29/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Jun Lead O/S
chancer 16/May Lead O/S
with Richard Carey
bigdrew 30/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Apr Lead O/S
GuyVG 09/Apr Lead O/S

heavily chalked jug below final bulge is loose, be careful.

with Laura
Somerset swede basher 05/Apr Lead O/S
with Adam
Chris Wright 02/Apr Lead rpt
stp 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Thought this was a great route, less technical and more obvious climbing than many of the routes on this wall. Not too polished yet and didn't feel overly slippery when climbing.

with Marianna
Chris Wright 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

couple of difficult sections made more nerve racking by the shear level of pollish. bolting at top seems strange as you climb off the vertical wall onto the slaby section.

with martin johnson
bigie bob 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 TR RP
dannyboy83 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Shane Donnelly
DaveMo 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Jan
DaveMo 24/Jul/14 -
with Jan
leon 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
mrteale 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
MrBIond 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 TR
Chris Wright 29/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Leo Woodhead 29/Mar/14 Lead β

Managed this route on my second attempt. First attempt went left instead of right and ended up clipping the chains of the 7a after a hard finishing move. Rested and then went for a clean ascent of the proper route. Really enjoyed the route, sustained and interesting all the way. The top section after moving right is technical and really enjoyed it.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd
Chris Wright 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Chris Wright 25/Feb/14 Lead rpt
MartinPL 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S

doone OS in freezy day, about 2 degrees, 11th of January

farkas.time 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Burgess
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead rpt
gill 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S


with Annelies
Dan Jenkin 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Partridge
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
greenclimb 03/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Dkoi 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with lucy picher
Chris Wright 19/May/13 Lead
Mick 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Jay
Marti999 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
debbie roberts 15/Apr/13 2nd
Toby Dunn 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Simon Palmer
Chris Wright 15/Feb/13 Lead
markfairbank 16/Dec/12 Lead dnf

Closed down by wet holds at the top

with Anne Gumbley, Harry Middleton
JackSnowden 14/Oct/12 Lead
Coel Hellier 29/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/12 2nd
catblack 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

One of the better routes here and not particularly polished. Didn't find it pumpy or sustained due to hands off rest half way up. Tricky and techincal final moves.

with Dad
Tala M 02/Sep/12 TR O/S
Andrew Sloan 26/Aug/12 TR dog
Martin Haworth 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Nick Allen 18/Aug/12 Lead β

Hard top for 6b+

nige pacer 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
soph 07/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Jonathan Hall 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Tough finish on a v greasy day but good none the less

JamieSparkes 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Great climbing, but of a sprint to the top of the borehole, then a very committing final couple of moves!

with Nick
Nick1812P 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Ben Winston
jonleighton 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Really nice route with a tricky finish. It's not as polished at the guidebook made it sound.

Katya 01/Jul/12 TR dog

Excellent! Hard. Rp it next time.

DDDD 29/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Seb Grieve
mattwilk 24/Jun/12 TR dog

Really enjoyed this. Could probably get it on lead if a little fitter.

migs493 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with RS
Dandan82 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 20/May/12 Lead RP
Brannock 20/May/12 Lead RP
jkarran 12/May/12 Lead

Pumpy to the rest then a really nice balancey move

with Team
GrantB 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Fairly straight-forward when compared to some of the more technical beasties, but lot of fun.

with Team York (RELOAD)
petellis 12/May/12 TR rpt
with Chuck Norris, Sloth, Cleric James Koran, Alpha Blue
Hidden 02/May/12 Lead dog
Matt Shepherd 01/May/12 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead β
climbinmunkey 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Got the start wrong and had to back off. Got it after a re think and happily floated to the chains. Solid for the grades.

with Andy
Dave Foster 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Challenging top section. Get yer gast...on.

with Si 2
robin_hackney 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
metal arms 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
migs493 27/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Pete
Mitchinx 21/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Chris Chambers
simon1965 04/Jul/11 Lead

Hard slippy and very sweaty, fell off last hold.

with Tim
Hidden 30/Jun/11 TR rpt
jamesgodwin64 02/May/11 Lead rpt

loved it this time really enjoyed it but it a bit airy still at the top and a little scary at the bottom but i had the moves so i had more confidence and even talked my belayer into doing it who did it with no rests on TR (with my beta) and normally climbs 6a ish. Tech note take long ish QD's otherwise the rope drag will burn you out more than the route!

Viki 02/May/11 TR O/S
jamesgodwin64 01/May/11 Lead RP

very pumped out by the top but the moves just about went thank god had to keep my head in the game a little though its no push over for the grade.

jelaby 10/Apr/11 Lead dog

Pumped from trying demolition man; it's too hot; it was the end of the day; gravity was to high. Ho hum. Tricky moves at the top, after all that climbing.

Laurence Everitt 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
DDDD ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Sham
lrandall 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Easier then I was expecting but really enjoyable and with the crux moves (a sequence, not just one hard pull) as you approach the lower off. Gorgeous.

Hidden 28/Mar/11 TR rpt
R8JimBob88 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Still very tough! Managed it last year but struggled after the winter break. Got to last bolt but had nothing left so lowered off. Set up a toprope afterwards to retrieve gear.

with Wobbly
mark20 13/Mar/11 Lead β
bigdrew 13/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Mark R
Hidden 24/Feb/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
bigdrew 11/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Si
MartinWilliams87 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Angus Malcolm
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead dog
R8JimBob88 30/Aug/10 Lead RP

Finally! 4th visit to this line, felt really easy to after previous failed attempts. The training must have paid off. So good that after I was lowered I climbed it again on toprope :-D

with Laura
R8JimBob88 30/Aug/10 TR rpt
with Laura
R8JimBob88 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with Laura
R8JimBob88 24/Jul/10 TR dog

Previously dogged on lead so decided to go back and work out the moves on top rope. Found it the reverse of last time, bottom was harder than the top for some reason. Still polished a little too much for my liking, not that that will ever change!

with Laura
joese7en 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 13/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Well good climbing. First taste of Horseshoe Quarry being any good! Got proper pumped at top and bottom section is a thriller!

Hidden 13/Jul/10 Lead O/S
nathanlee 01/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Dom Lee
Hidden 23/Jun/10 -
ben_250 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tom
tomthecoolperson 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ben 250
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
smudge 07/Jun/10 Lead O/S
greenclimb 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
sam corbett ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
R8JimBob88 24/Apr/10 Lead dog

First half was nice, a little polished in places. A good ledge to rest on half way. Took me a while to figure out the top moves and took a few falls getting to the last bolt before the lower off. Will try again

with Laura
jamesgodwin64 24/Apr/10 TR RP
ojp 10/Apr/10 2nd
with Si
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/10 Lead
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Gambit 23/Aug/09 Lead
with Steve
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
gazfellows 29/Jun/09 TR
with Dennis
gazfellows 29/Jun/09 2nd
with Dennis
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Sankey 25/Apr/09 TR rpt
with Jon and Ed
Chazz 18/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Excellent first half, took a while to figure out the top moves.

Matt Rowat 18/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Quite cool, lots of rests and time to work out the moves

with Charlie
ASchwirtz 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Becca, Andy
BeccaSnowden 01/Mar/09 Lead dnf


robal ??/2009 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/2009 Lead
loonyclimber 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S

loved it... best route we did today.

Hidden 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 28/Aug/08 TR dog
gingerkate 11/Jun/08 2nd dog

One fall. Did all moves.

with I
Ian Broome 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
morganator 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/08 Lead
Brown 07/May/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
chiverstom 05/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Turner
mattyork2 05/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Joe Grondowski ??/2008 Lead
Pilch 11/Nov/07 2nd dog

relatively straightforward but sustained up to rest before top wall. Had to rest on rope before doing last steep moves.

with Simon et al
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Jarin 14/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Tom
Tom Phillips 14/Mar/07 2nd
with Jarek
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ??/2007 Lead O/S
jcbarber993 15/Oct/06 Lead dog

Loose hold at the crux adds a little something.

with Graeme Endean
Mick r 29/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Alex Mason 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S

good climbing up the bore hole groove

with mick radford
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
NeilManley ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead
Ram MkiV 25/May/06 Lead O/S

1st route of day - not really a warm up

with Tom
Hidden 24/May/06 Lead
Joe Costello ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Liam and naylor
Hidden 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Jul/05 Lead dog
Gus ??/2005 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Mark A Humphries 26/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Jim
nige 11/Sep/03 Lead
with nick colton
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Lead dnf
jamiev ??/2003 Lead O/S

Date a guess!

with Sally Kerr
Dave Bond ??/2003 Lead RP
with Adrian Whitehall
Hidden 04/Aug/02 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 03/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Arnaud Leclerc
Hidden 01/Apr/01 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/00 Lead
D Tempest 11/May/00 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/00 Lead
CrashMat Rob 16/Jan/00 TR
with Brian, Nicky
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 20/Nov/99 Lead
CrashMat Rob 18/Sep/99 TR
with Martin Smith, Nicky, Glynn
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/99 TR
with Bill G
skygodley 25/May/99 Lead O/S
with Julia Bodle
D Tempest 04/Apr/99 -
with Rick
Andy Edgar ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Hugh Woodland
Hidden 04/Sep/98 Lead RP
D Tempest 19/Jul/98 Lead
with Rick, Liz
CrashMat Rob 10/May/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden 10/Jan/98 Lead
JonBray ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/97 Lead
CrashMat Rob 29/Mar/97 TR
with Karen
Billg ??/1997 -
Hidden 03/Sep/96 Lead
Mick 07/Apr/96 Lead RP
with Andy T
Neil R 09/Jul/95 Lead
with Richard W
Dave Douglas 09/Sep/94 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 17/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Dave Musgrove 04/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 01/Jul/94 2nd
with Dan Morgan, Colin Imrie
Hidden 18/Jun/94 2nd
goi.ashmore 23/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
Hidden 09/Oct/93 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/93 TR
Hidden 13/Aug/93 TR
Hidden 21/Jul/93 TR
John Southworth ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Kenton Cool
Hidden 12/May/93 TR
Hidden 15/Apr/93 TR
Hidden 06/Mar/93 TR
Tony Little 10/Feb/93 Lead O/S
with Daniel Stevenson
Hidden 08/Nov/92 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/92 Lead dnf
tlr 26/Jun/92 2nd
with Cal
andrew300169 25/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Tim Woz
Hidden 26/Jan/92 Lead
nai ??/1992 Lead
whispering nic ?/Sep/91 -
with slow hand nick
Roget 31/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with mark turnbull
Hidden 23/Jun/91 Lead
leathers 27/Oct/90 2nd
with Neil ?
John Marsland 16/Sep/90 2nd
with Allen Newby
Hidden ?/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/90 Lead
uphillnow ??/1990 -

ALSO 3/5/93

charlesmfrench ??/1990 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/89 Lead β
Hidden 10/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/89 2nd dnf
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Chris wiles
Hidden 11/Sep/88 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/88 Lead
Mike Owen 18/Apr/88 -
with Pete Kirton
Stoney Boy ?/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy, Steve Wigmore
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dunk3607, bobstones, schofieldm2, Hidden, tom3667, Hidden, AsleepOnBelay, alimckay, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 81
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set