Derbyshire > Smalldale Quarry >
 
First Offence* 6c+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Play it again Sam
 
When Reason Sleeps >>
20m. Intricate and balancy climbing. © ROCKFAX
FA. Bob Conway 1985
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/14 with andy elliot

Strange chalky slippy rock made this venue crap! Its such a shame because the lines are great but to close together...
justin c - 14/Aug/12 with steph crowley

dominic lee - Lead - 25/Aug/11 with andy elliot

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Aug/11

morganator - Lead dog - 25/May/11 with Neil McAdie

Spoilt by the closeness of the adjacent 'Resovoir Frogs'. The bolts and climbing on these routes is only an arm span apart and the routes seem to share the same holds. Limestone can be climbed up almost anywhere at a certain grade so it behoves new routers to not be greedy and put up new routes too close to existing routes! Overall the rock is very good and the climbing quite unusual and technical. The guys who did it before us said it was more like 6c but it seemed quite hard to me. Not sure what to grade it. For the crux I had my L foot on a big hold on the adjacent route. Is that allowed? Is it cheating? Certainly not if done before the other was put up. (PS Use long draws on the first 3 bolts to avoid rope drag)
stp - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Guy

toasted - Lead RP - Sep/09 with maxpie

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Jul/09

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Dave

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2009 with PeakDJ

koalapie - Lead RP - 2009

nickcanute - 2009

Hardest flash to date. F7a in the BMC guide.
galpinos - Lead β - 17/Sep/08 with Ben & Brian

robyn1 - Sep/08

sadams - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/08 with Eric Hildrew

Boy - 2008

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/07

Stig - Lead - 19/Jul/07 with Goi

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Gary Gibson

spacey - Lead dog - 05/Jun/07 with Clive

Hidden - 2007

sadams - Lead - 05/Aug/97 with Hugh Cottom

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/97

Hidden - TR - 08/Jun/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/96 with baccy, jon

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/95

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Chi Cheng

Voting
Total votes cast 10
hard 7a0 of 5
7a0 of 5
easy 7a3 of 5
hard 6c+1 of 5
6c+1 of 5
easy 6c+0 of 5
hard 6c0 of 5
6c0 of 5
easy 6c0 of 5
3 Stars1 of 5
2 Stars2 of 5
1 Star1 of 5
0 Stars1 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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Style of ascent

Lead21 of 27 (77.8%)
Toproped1 of 27 (3.7%)
Unknown5 of 27 (18.5%)

'Climbed'10 of 27 (37.0%)
clean O/S6 of 27 (22.2%)
clean β1 of 27 (3.7%)
clean rpt4 of 27 (14.8%)
clean RP3 of 27 (11.1%)
dogged3 of 27 (11.1%)