UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Head straight up from the wide crack in the base of the wall, then pull into the technical groove. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Jackson 1985. FA. (Direct) Gary Gibson 1995.

Feedback

User Date Notes
stp 13 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A hold has come off the top making that section slightly harder but not enough to affect the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A hold has come off the top making that section slightly harder but not enough to affect the grade.
belay bunny turned bad 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty dirty at the moment. Some lose rock at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty dirty at the moment. Some lose rock at the top.
Gary Gibson 20 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Rebolted with substantial new gear where hangers previously existed. New belays added. Gary Gibson
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rebolted with substantial new gear where hangers previously existed. New belays added. Gary Gibson

Logged Ascents

26 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rite of Way

Grade: 7b ***
(Winnats Pass)

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