Schubert/Route of Friendship*** VI- 5c
[Route goes just left of the big gully, 2 kb]250m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Dynamic and varied climbing make this another popular route on the face. The route is sometimes called the 'Route of Friendship, Schubert and Matthies' in memory of their friend Harald Siebold who died in a climbing accident. Equipped stances and some fixed gear.
Start 20m left of the huge rift in the rock, at the base of the rightwards-trending overhanging corner-crack below a series of roofs.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the steep corner then exit left at a peg. Climb cracks direct towards the roof then traverse right below it and move up to a stance on its right edge.
2) V, 40m. Follow a long crack, moving right into a short corner then back left into the crack and pull through a niche to reach a ledge.
3) VI-, 40m. Climb a corner-crack left of the ledge to a small pulpit. Follow a crack direct then left again to a stance in the yellow crack.
4) V-, 40m. Follow the yellow crack right to a pulpit, then move back left. Climb direct up the well-pegged wall above to a bolted stance.
5) V, 25m. Traverse left around the arete then climb direct to a ledge.
6) V, 45m. Move diagonally right from the ledge then climb a crack to another terrace on the right. Step right and climb direct, keeping left of a bulge until reaching three pegs on top of a pillar below an overhang.
7) IV, 45m. Traverse right below the overhang then move up and back left to a ledge. Climb direct to a niche (possible belay) then exit this left and continue direct to the ledge.
FA. Schubert, Matthies 1967 © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Right hand side of lower tier . Piz Ciavazes

Photo: Route goes just left of the big gully © islandlynx
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This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

dodfoster - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/15 with esther seddon

Led P1, 3, 5, 7. Good climbing.
Oli - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/15 with Tats

tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/15 with Oli Lewis

cayteye - 2nd rpt - 20/Jul/15 with mike stober

Led p1 3 5 7, we split pitch 3 in two. 6 hours, 1.5 for casual descent to car park. Great route.
islandlynx - AltLd - 27/May/15 with matthew beals

Fantastic route. I did pitches 2.0 (we split it in to 2 pitches), 3, 5 and 7.
Matt77 - AltLd O/S - 27/May/15 with Shane

p1 R, p2 R, p3 F, p4 F, p5 F, p6 F, p7 R
FlavioL1989 - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/14 with Rob Edwards

james1978 - AltLd - Sep/14 with pam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/14

jcw - 2014

led odd pitches
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 2014 with Steve Robinson

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Burton

burto - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with ferdia

AndyL - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Calum cuthill

Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Top quality route, although P6 and P7 lack the line.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/13 with Stevo

4hrs in guide book time
greenclimb - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Sarah

I did the even pitches, a great route
CurlyStevo - AltLd - Aug/13 with Kirill S

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/12

Awesome route. Had to bail a couple of pitches from the top due to showers coming through. Lead both the crux pitches which were fantastic and quite sustained. E1 5b I reckon.
jezb1 - AltLd - 25/Jul/12

Did first 4 pitches (including both crux pitches) before rain forced an abseil retreat. I only led p2, but managed to second the rest cleanly, good leads on 1 & 3 from Jez. Several 5b sequences and sustained so easily worth E1 in UK money.
The Ivanator - AltLd dnf - 25/Jul/12 with Jez

Same route as Shubert? Fine route but Big Micheluzzi even better.
John Nuttall - AltLd - 16/Jul/12 with Andy H

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11

Quite excellent climb, with good pitches all the way. Lovely pockets and solid rock, with technical sections to keep the interest.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Davey Boy

Nicos - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/07 with rich howels

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/06 with Guy

Led p 1, 3, 5 & 7. 5 hours. An ironic name for us, as we got into an altercation with some Austrian idiots who arrogantly thought they would overtake us & then discovered that they couldn't climb faster than us after all
cem - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/05 with Bryan Rynne

chris wyatt - Aug/05 with Mike Barclay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/04

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Steptoe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/99

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Excellent climbing from the top we continued via the SW Diedre. A great day out
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 25/Jul/94 with David

tjekel - 1993

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/88

Hidden - Lead - Jun/87

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 9
hard VI0 of 2
VI0 of 2
easy VI0 of 2
hard VI-1 of 2
VI-1 of 2
easy VI-0 of 2
hard V+0 of 2
V+0 of 2
easy V+0 of 2
3 Stars3 of 3
2 Stars0 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat