Derbyshire > Chee Dale Upper >
 
Mad Dogs and Englishmen*** E3 5c

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Machineries of Joy - Pitch 1 >>
[Luke on Mad dogs, 3 kb]28m. A fine and devious route which is one of the best of its grade in the Peak. Very sustained, though with a harder move to reach the roof. Climb a flake to a peg. Step across left to another flake then pull up with difficulty (peg above) to below the roof. Pull over to gain a bucket then tiptoe right across the slab. Climb direct to the top and a dirty exit. A 7c sport route was added close to Mad Dogs changing the character of this route so much that the bolts were removed. © ROCKFAX
FA. Brian Moore, J.Ballard (aid) 1969. FFA. Gabriel Reagan, Al Evans 1976

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Photo: Luke on Mad dogs © Hannes B
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 82 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/14

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Chris

every bit as good as the description suggests. move from 1st flake to 2nd is 5c, but move from 2nd flake to the roof is definite crux. felt harder than crux of the beest so i'm going to say 6a
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/13 with leon

I don't normally log seconds but this thing was amazing. It keeps coming at you like the hang over from the whaley dad's climbing xmas do. Increasingly hard moves until established under the roof.
leon - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Alex

Brown - Lead - 29/Jun/13 with Lily

Simon Davis - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Tim P And Jamie V

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

Fell off looking for the bucket :( really enjoyed the route tho. Hard for me both mentally and technically. New rockfax guidebook line at the roof is wrong.
Si dH - Lead dog - 29/Jul/12 with Chris Foster

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 28/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

nic42 - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/11 with mike, Jack

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

gregoritos - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

Is it just me, or did anyone else spend an entire hour standing around committing to the crux? :( The guidebook says 'no specific crux'... errr, not really the case when a point is reached where blind footholds the size of a 1p coin have to be utilised in combination with one handed, two finger crimps!! Bloody brilliant experience throughout though. The roof is a blast :)
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/10

Got scared and grabbed the draw on the peg ahving rocked up out right below the after an hour of umming and aring. Subsequently tried this move again on second and fell of and found that I ahd to rock left not right. Difficult orute finding and also poor route reading and very poor bravery all to blame.
mattyork2 - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/10 with Grant Brewer

Started raining whilst on lead - 1pt aid to overcome wet foliage at the top.
Ally Smith - Lead - 25/Apr/10 with mattyork2

Seymore Butt - 2010

Unsustained. VHard move getting established under the roof. Undoubtedly 1 6a move on it. Still E3 though.
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Franco Cookson

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/09 with james

Failed to lead, failed to second. Undoubtedly at least two 6a moves on it but hard going all the way.
Stig - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/09 with Greg

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008 with aiden

nige - Lead - 07/Apr/07 with sven rowan

robyn1 - 2007

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/06 with Tim Banton

Hidden - Jul/06

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Alex

again mostly on steves gear, good route didnt feel the 3* awesomeness i was expecting, friable rock aswell. me and steve both had different sequences for both cruxes and the move up to the roof felt 6a/b tough little move.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Steve Ramsden

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2000 with ciaran troup

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/97 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/97 with mik

ChrisJD - Lead - Jun/97 with rc

David Smith - 2nd - 1996

ian caton - Lead O/S - Oct/95 with Andy

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/92 with Lyn

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/92

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/92 with Bruce woodley

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1992 with Richard Newey

craig d - 1992

Roget - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/91 with JT

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/91

sadams - 2nd - May/91 with Kev Mellieu

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

cam1401 - Lead - Sep/89

Hidden - Jun/89

phardman - Lead O/S - 07/May/89 with Bill McKee

Hidden - 1989

Mike Owen - 21/May/88 with Tim Lowe

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/88

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/88

steve L - Lead - 01/May/88 with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/88

Neil R - 2nd - 1988 with Ian

Billg - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/87 with Nigel Slater

sadams - Lead - 31/Jul/86 with Kevin Edwards

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/86

shark - Lead O/S - 23/May/86 with Dolly

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/85

andy gittins - 1985

Ivan Machin - 13/Oct/82 with Jon Mellor

Hidden - Lead - Jun/82

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Hidden - Lead - 1982

redjerry - Lead O/S - Jun/80 with Roy Williamson

Mark Kemball - Lead - 10/May/80 with John Jefferies

Hidden - Lead β - May/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Hidden, Gary Coggon, Michael Hood, Nick1812P, masa-alpin, Hidden, aretherenoneleft, Dan Lane, greenclimb, drcorbasisgod, Owen W-G, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 88
hard E40 of 28
E40 of 28
easy E41 of 28
hard E38 of 28
E318 of 28
easy E31 of 28
hard E20 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E20 of 28
hard 6a0 of 29
6a1 of 29
easy 6a9 of 29
hard 5c5 of 29
5c14 of 29
easy 5c0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 29
5b0 of 29
easy 5b0 of 29
3 Stars22 of 31
2 Stars6 of 31
1 Star3 of 31
0 Stars0 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
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Style of ascent

Lead60 of 82 (73.2%)
Followed9 of 82 (11.0%)
Unknown13 of 82 (15.9%)

'Climbed'36 of 82 (43.9%)
clean O/S39 of 82 (47.6%)
clean β1 of 82 (1.2%)
clean rpt1 of 82 (1.2%)
dogged3 of 82 (3.7%)
dnf2 of 82 (2.4%)