Rockfax Description
A fine and devious route which is one of the best of its grade in the Peak. Very sustained, though with a harder move to reach the roof. Climb a flake to a peg. Step across left to another flake then pull up with difficulty (peg above) to below the roof. Pull over to gain a bucket then tiptoe right across the slab. Climb direct to the top and a dirty exit. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Moore, J.Ballard (aid) 1969. FFA. Gabriel Reagan, Al Evans 1976

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

markalmack 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Found the move up into the roof the crux. Getting through the roof was easy... the top groove was a bit gripping.

WB 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Mark lead it first and gave me some beta, which was all wrong. Not top 50

mike mo ??/2015 -
Hidden 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Alex@home 14/Aug/14 2nd rpt

When I led this I thought the second move was significantly harder than the first, but to second it they felt about the same - both 5c

Duncan Campbell 28/Jul/14 Lead β

Belayed Rach on it first but placed my own kit. Fun but not a top 50 in my opinion? A few tricky moves, mainly the sections moving across the slabs/walls. Felt pretty ok for E3. Line in Peak Lime may be slightly wrong but its pretty obvious where you go. At the top we climbed right hand side of groove.

with Rach
Rachel Slater 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead
Ian Broome 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Chris
Alex@home 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S

every bit as good as the description suggests. move from 1st flake to 2nd is 5c, but move from 2nd flake to the roof is definite crux. felt harder than crux of the beest so i'm going to say 6a

with leon
leon 08/Jul/13 2nd O/S

I don't normally log seconds but this thing was amazing. It keeps coming at you like the hang over from the whaley dad's climbing xmas do. Increasingly hard moves until established under the roof.

with Alex
Brown 29/Jun/13 Lead
with Lilifa
Simon Davis ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tim P And Jamie V
Speeddemonsi 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/12 Lead β
with Si
Hidden 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Si dH 29/Jul/12 Lead dog

Fell off looking for the bucket :( really enjoyed the route tho. Hard for me both mentally and technically. New rockfax guidebook line at the roof is wrong.

with Chris Foster
Luke Brooks 28/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
drysori 04/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Had a bit of a spazz attack at the first roof and decided I wasn't enjoying myself. Will return.

with Jon L
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
nic42 27/Aug/11 2nd dog
with mike, Jack
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
gregoritos 23/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Is it just me, or did anyone else spend an entire hour standing around committing to the crux? :( The guidebook says 'no specific crux'... errr, not really the case when a point is reached where blind footholds the size of a 1p coin have to be utilised in combination with one handed, two finger crimps!! Bloody brilliant experience throughout though. The roof is a blast :)

Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
greenclimb 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 25/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Got scared and grabbed the draw on the peg ahving rocked up out right below the after an hour of umming and aring. Subsequently tried this move again on second and fell of and found that I ahd to rock left not right. Difficult orute finding and also poor route reading and very poor bravery all to blame.

Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Dave Warburton 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Unsustained. VHard move getting established under the roof. Undoubtedly 1 6a move on it. Still E3 though.

gregoritos 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with james
Stig 05/Aug/09 2nd dog

Failed to lead, failed to second. Undoubtedly at least two 6a moves on it but hard going all the way.

with Greg
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
with aiden
nige 07/Apr/07 Lead
with sven rowan
robyn1 ??/2007 -
Dave Bond 14/Jul/06 Lead O/S
timbanton ?/Jul/06 -
Ram MkiV 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
Alex Mason 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S

again mostly on steves gear, good route didnt feel the 3* awesomeness i was expecting, friable rock aswell. me and steve both had different sequences for both cruxes and the move up to the roof felt 6a/b tough little move.

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead O/S
with ciaran troup
mikedelderfield 10/Aug/97 Lead O/S
ste_d 10/Aug/97 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead
uphillnow ??/1996 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1995 Lead O/S


Dave Musgrove 02/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Lyn
steveb2006 24/Jun/92 Lead
with Mike Pycroft
Rich Kirby 15/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Bruce woodley
DDDD ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Richard Newey
craig d ??/1992 -
Roget 01/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Hidden ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
sadams ?/May/91 2nd
with Kev Mellieu
Bulls Crack ??/1991 Lead O/S
with AM
Stoney Boy 09/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/89 Lead
timbanton ?/Jun/89 -
phardman 07/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 -
Mike Owen 21/May/88 -
with Tim Lowe
steveb2006 15/May/88 Lead
with Simon Mee
Hidden 14/May/88 Lead
steve L 01/May/88 Lead
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
charlesmfrench 17/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Neil R ??/1988 2nd
with Ian
Billg 02/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Nigel Slater
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
sadams 31/Jul/86 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
Hidden 25/May/86 Lead
shark 23/May/86 Lead O/S
with Dolly
Gregory ??/1986 Lead
Hidden ?/May/85 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Ivan Machin 13/Oct/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Hidden ?/Jun/82 Lead
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
redjerry ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
with Roy Williamson
Mark Kemball 10/May/80 Lead
with John Jefferies
Hidden ?/May/80 Lead β
Andy Edgar ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AsleepOnBelay, ashtond6, nai, Gary Coggon, Nick1812P, masa-alpin, Hidden, aretherenoneleft, Dan Lane, greenclimb, drcorbasisgod, Owen W-G, Hidden
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 34
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